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diy shower unit, thermostat control and radiator

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my thermostat heating control is a bit wonky with the red light not funcitioning or settings on the hw   the one i have is… Read More
wakkaday Avatar
1m, 2w agoPosted 1 month, 2 weeks ago
my thermostat heating control is a bit wonky with the red light not funcitioning or settings on the hw


the one i have is


is it easy for me to replace? diy or do i need a professional.



also the electric shower unit in the bathroom i would like to replace it. could i buy a new one and just refit using existing connections/wiring. again diy or professional



finally the radiator in the bathroom is not working ive been told one of the valves on the right handside can easily be turned and it shouldnt do that and needs replacing. i've been told the valve costs a fiver or something, would this be something i could fit in?


not an experienced diyer, electrician or plumber



wakkaday Avatar
1m, 2w agoPosted 1 month, 2 weeks ago

All Responses

(6) Jump to unreadPost an answer
'not an experienced diyer, electrician or plumber'

Get someone in.
Cheaper to call out a plumber/electrician when it's not an emergency....
Thermostat: get the hive 1 for £60 from toolstation
Electric shower should be a straight swap
Radiator valve: the "loose" one might be a fake cover for the out pipe. Is he left one "tight"? Rad valves are usually 1 in 1 out. The out one is adjusted using a spanner

But yeah, +1 on Craig's comment!
None of the tasks are particularly difficult - provided you are well researched and know what you have to do!. If you are unsure of what you are doing the tasks are dangerous and if done wrong could cause damage to your home!

1) Heating timer - I'm not familiar with this programmer. Modern programmers share a "common" back plat which screws to the wall and connects all the wiring to - the programmer then just connects to this back plate - hence with this type changeover to a new programmer is easy! I can't see exactly from the ebay photo if this is a common back plate type but I guess it isn't!

You therefore need to determine how it connects to the wall and the wiring. There will likely be some screws on the bottom of the programmer that if you loosen you will be able to pull the programmer from the wall (make sure the electric is off when you attempt this). If the programmer comes off and then it is simply the case of replacing with an identical programmer - pushing back onto the wall and tightening up.

2) Again replacing an electric shower can be straightforward. If you replace with an identical unit (same make/model) then changing will be simple - a job to disconnect everything water wise and electrically, remove the shower unit and replace with new. In all likelihood you won't be able to get an identical shower - which means that the connections for the water and fittings to the wall will most likely be in slightly different locations - meaning you may need to modify the cold water supply, drill new holes to fit the unit to the wall. Hopefully the cable will be long enough if the connection point is in a different position! You also have to ensure that you do not instal a shower with a power rating beyond what you supply wire is rated for - fitting a shower of a similar rating (kW) to existing will be fine, if uprating to a more powerful unit you need to ensure the cable is adequate.

So this is the most complex of the three tasks - unless you can find an identical shower.

3) Radiator valve. I'd have a go at "playing" with the radiator valves first - I would imagine they should be able to work!. Take all the plastic caps off (both valves) and use a pair of pliers to try and rotate the stems, after moving back and forward leave the valves open (rotate fully anti clockwise). if one of the valves is a thermostatic valve - press the pin after removing the plastic cap (screws off) and make sure it moves freely up and down.

If this does not solve the problem then it is reasonably straight forward to change one of the valves - after you have drained the central heating system down. Need to use some spanners to loosen the old valve and replace with new. Then the system needs to be refilled and bled to remove the air - again straight forward if you know what you are doing, but can appear to be complicated if you don't!

So as with everything - easy if you know what you are doing, complicated if you don't. For 2 and 3 have a look on youtube - there will likely be some helpful videos. Good luck!
Thanks guys
I replaced my old Triton shower with a new one. It was a straight swap. I just needed some ptfe tape around an "olive" to stop a drip. It was easy.

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