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engine malfunction and car loses power

EN1GMA Avatar
1y, 11m agoPosted 1 year, 11 months ago
Hey everyone

Thought I'd ask the knowledgeable folks here as a lot of people here know their stuff.

Driving along in my 07 ford galaxy diesel and the engine malfunction sign comes on and car loses power. This is on the motorway. I scream like a man and get the car to the hard shoulder. I stop the car, turn engine off, give it a few minutes and it starts up again and I start driving.

I go at 70 for a bit and then just go a bit higher and it happens again.

So thankfully I'm at my destination but freaking worried about what's up with the car.

I've had the battery changed recently and locally it's fine no problem.

When I was driving on the motorway, the car did grunt a bit when at 70. I've had the car for about 7 months and have a number of motorway miles but something didn't feel right.

Not sure if it's the battery that's the problem with the wrong one fitted maybe.

Just trying to get some idea of what's wrong before I start ringing the garages tomorrow.

Locally it's fine but go up to about 70 and it does not seem as smooth as it was before the battery change.

Any ideas?

Thanks

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EN1GMA Avatar
1y, 11m agoPosted 1 year, 11 months ago
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(1)
On a serious note, no need to run it at 100mph, just hold it in a lower gear, at high revs for some distance, that will help to clear it.

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#1
The only thing that's changed about the car is the battery. Is it possible wrong battery was fitted and it does not have enough power? I'm hoping it's something as simple as that to be honest. Not sure what else it could be. Like I said, this just happens at speed.
#2
You need to read the fault codes. cheapo code readers on ebay.

My *wild guess* would be a dpf fault - the car may be trying to do a dpf regen but that is failing and then the car is dropping into limp mode.

but really we dont have enough info to make informed suggestions.
#3
EN1GMA
The only thing that's changed about the car is the battery. Is it possible wrong battery was fitted and it does not have enough power? I'm hoping it's something as simple as that to be honest. Not sure what else it could be. Like I said, this just happens at speed.

very much doubt that it is the battery. When the car is running it is generating its own power from the alternator. Could be a failing sensor - maybe something knocked when the battery was changed?
#4
did it go into whats known as limp mode, wont go more then about 30-40 mph for a while. . if so it could be the DPF ( diesel particulate filter ) check in your manual or online on DPF for fords. all cars react different if this needs cleaning or replacing.. if you purchased it from a garage check out your warranty. not saying that this is the fault but could be, good look
#5
Do you let the tank run virtually dry before filling up?
#6
mas99
You need to read the fault codes. cheapo code readers on ebay.

My *wild guess* would be a dpf fault - the car may be trying to do a dpf regen but that is failing and then the car is dropping into limp mode.

but really we dont have enough info to make informed suggestions.


What's dpf mate? Why would it cut out when reaching a certain speed? I'll take any opinions at the moment. Going to contact the mechanic tomorrow.
#7
could be the alternator
#8
doesnt sound like battery at all
#9
diesel particulate filter (dpf)
#10
theshepherd83
Do you let the tank run virtually dry before filling up?


Normally no but this last time we did do. I was away for the weekend without the car and forgot to fill up and I think it went low before the Mrs filled up. I've never let it go low and always fill up when it gets to a quarter. Just didn't do that last week and it went pretty low but there was still diesel left. It didn't go completely dry.
#11
cornishscouse
did it go into whats known as limp mode, wont go more then about 30-40 mph for a while. . if so it could be the DPF ( diesel particulate filter ) check in your manual or online on DPF for fords. all cars react different if this needs cleaning or replacing.. if you purchased it from a garage check out your warranty. not saying that this is the fault but could be, good look


All I know is the dash said engine malfunction, I scream and just glided to the hard shoulder. Didn't really try to see whether it would cost along 30 40 mph.
#12
cozzie
could be the alternator


Expensive to replace?
#13
I bet you a fiver its the temperature sensor in your air intake ..but get error codes checked 1st to make sure...hopefully you know someone who can do this otherwise garage will charge you a ton just to tell u what's wrong! ..will cost about 80 quid to sort at a garage, but its a simple enough job to do yourself ....part will be about 40 quid or thereabouts.
#14
PLANKT0N0
I bet you a fiver its the temperature sensor in your air intake ..but get error codes checked 1st to make sure...hopefully you know someone who can do this otherwise garage will charge you a ton just to tell u what's wrong! ..will cost about 80 quid to sort at a garage, but its a simple enough job to do yourself ....part will be about 40 quid or thereabouts.


Thanks for all advice so far. Just to ask, what does the temp intake have to do with the car cutting out? Just for information mate.
#15
EN1GMA


What's dpf mate? Why would it cut out when reaching a certain speed? I'll take any opinions at the moment. Going to contact the mechanic tomorrow.

DPF - diesel particulate filter : modern diesels have a filter in the exhaust system that catches the soot. Every so often they run a process to burn off the collected soot - this is called regen. That process runs only when the car is warmed up and has been runnig at high speed for a while. It works by increasing the temperature of the exhaust gasses until the dpf gets hot enough to burn off the soot.

Lots of things can cause the dpf regeneration to fail - different engines do things slightly differently - but examples that I've seen have include thermostat failing (cheap), glow plug failing (moderate), egr failing (could be cheap could be £££), exhaust temperature sensor <- all of these things are used by the car to manage increaseing the engine temperature.

The typical symptom would be that the car when on a high speed run feels different - because the dpf regen process starts, engine injects extra fuel, turns on glow plugs etc to increase temperature of exhaust gasses.
Then if the regen process fails then the car will throw an error code and often go into limp mode (lose power) wouldnt expect the sped to be limited to 30/40 but power will be well down.

I'd stress that I'm guessing though. Always worth having a cheap code reader to narrow things down (I have a £20 one that sits in the boot) and most will let you clear the error which is a godsend if you get thrown in to limp mode often.

Edited By: mas99 on Dec 20, 2014 17:50
#16
Just clarify - is the engine stopping or just losing power?

If the engine is stopping then more likely to be wiring or sensor failure - I'd look first ar camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors. If the ecu doesnt know the positions of the camshaft/crankshaft it cant manage the injection so will usually stop the engine. Camshaft sensors often start by failing at high temps - usually people have troble starting a hot car but also common to stop while running.
#17
EN1GMA
cozzie
could be the alternator


Expensive to replace?


maybe 150ish with labour, but im not 100%
#18
I did notice that when I was going at 60 70 mph, there was a slight grunt noise whilst the engine was running and felt that something was not running smoothly as before. Like something is blocked or not allowing smooth filtering.

Many thanks for all the comments. Really really appreciated guys. I'll still take any more advice if anyone wants to post.
#19
mas99
Just clarify - is the engine stopping or just losing power?

If the engine is stopping then more likely to be wiring or sensor failure - I'd look first ar camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors. If the ecu doesnt know the positions of the camshaft/crankshaft it cant manage the injection so will usually stop the engine. Camshaft sensors often start by failing at high temps - usually people have troble starting a hot car but also common to stop while running.


Not sure if it completely loses power or the engine is stopping. I didn't try to accelerate or anything just was bothered about getting to the hard shoulder. I just switched the car off, waited a minute and it started to work again. It just seems to be a problem at say anything over 60. I'd be more worried if the car didn't start at all.
#20
I'm guessing its a mk3 galaxy? Ford only?. If its the mk2 with the vw engine then could be clogged variable vanes in the turbo, basically when you rev between 2.5-3 k rpm its supposed to open up the vanes in the turbo, however they clog up and get stuck. Resulting in the car going into limp mode, until restarted and then its fine again until you reach 2.5-3k rpm.Easily cleaned out with mrmuscle. Mine kept recurring but since I have capped my egr off it has been fault free for 4k miles. Also to note cheap diagnostic scanners don't read the error code, requires vagcom.
#21
I thought 07 would be the ford rather than the rebadged sharan?
#22
mas99
I thought 07 would be the ford rather than the rebadged sharan?
Yes they usually are from 06 onwards, however some may of been registered later, I've seen the odd mk2 shape galaxy on a 07 plate.
#23
More than likely its the EGR valve (Exhaust gas recirculation).
#24
How do I know if it's mk2 or mk3? All I know is that it's a 07 diesel tdi ford galaxy...
#25
Check basic stuff first like air filter, fuel filter. Cheap to do. Probably not these but easy stuff you can do yourself.
#26
If its anything like my 55 plate mondeo, could be clogged turbo, electronic actuator, egr valve, injectors etc. mine was the turbo clogged and actuator was gone. fault code didn't give a specific just a general turbo issue.
best thing I did was getting rid of the car back to petrol
#27
I had a similar problem, the AA diagnosed it as a split turbo pipe, had it replaced and car ran fine again np
#28
EN1GMA
How do I know if it's mk2 or mk3? All I know is that it's a 07 diesel tdi ford galaxy...
This is a mk2 galaxy
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Galaxy#mediaviewer/File:Ford_Galaxy_front_20071109.jpg
#29
We could all list a load of stuff until you read what you want to see.

End of the story is that it needs plugged in to a computer and you go from there. As none of us are computers that will plug into your car, no one here can tell you. Sorry, but it really has went on long enough already.

Edited By: DEALS4EVA on Dec 20, 2014 19:26
#30
DEALS4EVA
We could all list a load of stuff until you read what you want to see.

End of the story is that it needs plugged in to a computer and you go from there. As none of us are computers that will plug into your car, no one here can tell you. Sorry, but it really has went on long enough already.

Agree, unless it's a mk2, then it will 99.9% of the time be stuck variable vanes.!!, very common on VW PD engines. Or split vacuum pipe that leads to the actuator etc..
#31
as sed could b any number of things need a fault code,had my Mondeo go into limp mode on m/way too, switch ignition on and off and it will reset.Mine turned out to be injectors,i did get a fault light up which when checked code was knock sensor

Edited By: sparky2076 on Dec 20, 2014 22:08
#32
just thought i'd give you guys a update. took it to mechanic, code showed up as P2263,something to do with the turbo/super charge boost system. he's cleared something from the pipes(or something) and told me take it for a spin and see if it happens again. also gave me the number of a specialist who deals with this type of fault if what the mechanic has done has not sorted it out.

he said the code could be one of a couple of issues so he's done what he can do and if that dont sort it, i'll have to take it to the specialist he advised to go to.
#33
Does the Galaxy even have a DPF??
#34
My son's car would go in limp home mode at the end of long motorway drives, it turns out his turbo was over boosting, he ended up paying 1000 quid for a new turbo fitted, before that tho he paid 45 quid for a full test of the turbo pressures

Edited By: ding on Dec 23, 2014 17:39
#35
rtmlk
I had a similar problem, the AA diagnosed it as a split turbo pipe, had it replaced and car ran fine again np

Had the same issue, turbo pipe had actually come away from the manifold.
#36
I had the same situation on my ford fiesta 1.6tdci 09. Would go into limp mode. Took it to local mechanic and ford. Both recognised it as a 'turbo' fault. Ford had it 10 days and couldn't sort it. They used donor parts on the turbo, they could make the turbo work but the car itself couldnt make the turbo work on its own. They wanted to charge me by day to diagnose and couldnt tell me how long they would have it, could've even been an electrical fault not kicking in the turbo. Leaky bucket that. Part exchanged the car for a dacia duster 4x4. Best thing I ever did. My old car is up for sale on the internet now and has been since I sold it, no one is buying it, cant blame them. Sell the car and move on if you can. Nightmare situation.
banned#37
Ford diesels suffer a lot from EGR valve failure which gives the symptoms your experiencing. I had it on my '07 Mondeo ST a while back.

The other common cause is blocked injectors, which can be very pricy
#38
EN1GMA
just thought i'd give you guys a update. took it to mechanic, code showed up as P2263,something to do with the turbo/super charge boost system. he's cleared something from the pipes(or something) and told me take it for a spin and see if it happens again. also gave me the number of a specialist who deals with this type of fault if what the mechanic has done has not sorted it out.

he said the code could be one of a couple of issues so he's done what he can do and if that dont sort it, i'll have to take it to the specialist he advised to go to.

The code does relate to a boost issue, Could be caused by multiple problems.

1. Vacuum pipes, Check that their are no leaks, blockages in the vacuum pipes, Manifold/turbo/egr etc... Especially at the joints, You may cut them down a little or better still replace. Cheap fix, You could remove each pipe one by one and clean and check for splits.

2. EGR could be clogged, Causing the issue, Resolve clean EGR or replace, Could try carb cleaner type stuff but better removing and cleaning/replacing. Better still cap it off, You may require ecu remap or buy a blanking plate with small hole, Basically it doesn't stop all the exhaust gasses recirculating but stops most of it allowing just enough to avoid triggering the engine warning light.

Blanking EGR will have many benefits, The only negative is the nasty emissions, Doesn't effect the MOT and in lots of cases it'll actually reduce emissions. Egr's are good when new but after a few thousand miles become clogged up, Then all that carp in the egr is free to be fed into your engine to be reburned and also sent along to your turbo to clog up etc.. ect...

Typical egr

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTpY7nw0x_A_jXGC236lv4zdaVT6Hs_Hf75Yhqqxjuj5Me0-__b

Here's one on ebay for Galaxy 2.0 TDCI

And 1.8 TDCI

3. Actuator could faulty/sticking, On mk3 galaxy they're electronic I think. Seems quite common on Modeo's

4. Clean Turbo out, Few different methods for that, Some turbo cleaner down the intake is a popular method, Another method is to use Mr Muscle and spray that down into the turbo, However it's highly corrosive to aluminium so you have to be careful.

When I clean my turbo I disconnect exhaust from turbo, Spray an ample amount of Mr Muscle, Blank with some card, Operate the actuator with some pliers, Leave for 30 minutes but operate the actuator a few times.

5. Injectors, Lets hope not.

Hope that helps.
#39
thanks for all the comments everyone. took the car down a dual carriageway and went up to about 80 without issues. still might take it to a specialist and get it checked out, buthoping he will be honest and not charge if it does not need owt doing. i'll probably take the car on the motorway tomorrow and do a test run and try to take the car up to 100 and see what happens. wish me luck.
#40
the mechanic did say yesterday that he rechecked the onboard computer after he did what he did and the fault code wasnt showing any more...so fingers crossed when i take it on the spin tomorrow.

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