some advise on car trouble please - HotUKDeals
We use cookie files to improve site functionality and personalisation. By continuing to use HotUKDeals, you accept our cookie and privacy policy.
Get the HotUKDeals app free at Google Play

Search Error

An error occurred when searching, please try again!

Login / Sign UpSubmit

some advise on car trouble please

£0.00 @
Hi my wife has a 2003 seat Ibiza and it's having trouble starting it will turn over with plenty of battery power and all electrics work it mainly happens when it's been left a while so in a morning … Read More
stefromuk Avatar
2y, 3m agoPosted 2 years, 3 months ago
Hi
my wife has a 2003 seat Ibiza and it's having trouble starting it will turn over with plenty of battery power and all electrics work it mainly happens when it's been left a while so in a morning or getting in it after work.
it won't do it all the time though it's very random when it does it.
I had a little look last week and it's not the battery as that had about14 volts and also cleaned the throttle body and there's no air leaks and I've bought a fuel filter and coolant temp sensor to change them this weekend I'm just after some tips on other things it could be as I would like to get it fixed this weekend.
cheers
oh yeah hooked it up to the laptop also and there's no faults showing

Shared Via The HUKD App For Android.
Tags:
stefromuk Avatar
2y, 3m agoPosted 2 years, 3 months ago
Options

Top Responses

(1)
are the battery terminals clean, the wife's car had trouble starting, cleaned the terminals and works great

All Responses

(42) Jump to unreadPost an answer
Responses/page:
Page:
#1
I had a similar problem on a punto diesel turned out to be the cam sensor
#2
djelia
I had a similar problem on a punto diesel turned out to be the cam sensor
thanks for that I will check that also
#3
Dodgy fuel pump or relay for the fuel pump.
#4
Forgot to say I did a service on it about a month ago ...changed plugs and oil etc
We got it cheap of a friend as it had 2 problems it was cutting out at junctions and this starting problem I've fixed the cutting out part so now this
#5
Dyslexic_Dog
Dodgy fuel pump or relay for the fuel pump.
Yeah that's one thing I've read but the previous owner said its had a new fuel pump when she was trying to solve the cutting out but I never thought about the relay for it I'll look.. can relays be tested or do you just replace them?
#6
Starter Motor could be sticking?
#7
Sounds similar to an issue i had with a mitsubishi carisma... Was the cam position sensor.
#8
gibbonsr
Starter Motor could be sticking?
Not sure I thought if it was the starter it wouldn't even try to turn over... Not sure
#9
patonar
Sounds similar to an issue i had with a mitsubishi carisma... Was the cam position sensor.
That's what djelia said also so that would be the easiest thing to try as its right at the top :)
#10
are the battery terminals clean, the wife's car had trouble starting, cleaned the terminals and works great
#11
srp111
are the battery terminals clean, the wife's car had trouble starting, cleaned the terminals and works great
They seem it yeah there definitely secure and they have some kind of petroleum jelly on them I'm guessing that's to protect them
#12
Get the codes read and that will give you an answer.
Code readers are nice and cheap now or if you know somebody who's got one ask to borrow it.
Also it will save money in the long run as you wont be fishing around in the dark.

My Bad need to read full question.
But on another note surely if it was cam sensor that would show as a fault.
It did on my car when it had a similar problem.
Cleared all codes and started car read codes again and it came back straight away.

Edited By: SENNYO1 on Jan 09, 2015 09:46
banned#13
your friend was wise to get rid of it, finding the problem could easily turn it into a money pit
#14
SENNYO1
Get the codes read and that will give you an answer.
Code readers are nice and cheap now or if you know somebody who's got one ask to borrow it.
Also it will save money in the long run as you wont be fishing around in the dark.

My Bad need to read full question.
But on another note surely if it was cam sensor that would show as a fault.
It did on my car when it had a similar problem.
Cleared all codes and started car read codes again and it came back straight away.
Yeah cheers I have a code reader and hooked it up when I first got it and it had no active codes but 1 stored old one saying cylinder 3 misfire but that got fixed with a HT coil by the AA.
I hooked it up again a few nights ago and no codes but this time I monitored the coolant temp sensor and for the first minute it read -40 and then settled at 93f so I thought maybe that's faulty and causing it
#15
i actually had the same problem on a 2001 clio. ended up being static discharge from the build up of grease between the battery and the connector.
#16
whatsThePoint
your friend was wise to get rid of it, finding the problem could easily turn it into a money pit
I know yeah :)
But it was only 150 quid as she wanted rid and thought well I'll give it a go and if not sell it on or scrap it
#17
robyoung14
i actually had the same problem on a 2001 clio. ended up being static discharge from the build up of grease between the battery and the connector.
Oh right that's good to know I'll take them off and clean as I said they have grease or petroleum jelly on thethe contacts
banned#18
stefromuk
whatsThePoint
your friend was wise to get rid of it, finding the problem could easily turn it into a money pit
I know yeah :)
But it was only 150 quid as she wanted rid and thought well I'll give it a go and if not sell it on or scrap it

only £50 more than a runner is worth, that's not to bad then ;)
#19
stefromuk
SENNYO1
Get the codes read and that will give you an answer.
Code readers are nice and cheap now or if you know somebody who's got one ask to borrow it.
Also it will save money in the long run as you wont be fishing around in the dark.

My Bad need to read full question.
But on another note surely if it was cam sensor that would show as a fault.
It did on my car when it had a similar problem.
Plus they look really easy to change.
Cleared all codes and started car read codes again and it came back straight away.
Yeah cheers I have a code reader and hooked it up when I first got it and it had no active codes but 1 stored old one saying cylinder 3 misfire but that got fixed with a HT coil by the AA.
I hooked it up again a few nights ago and no codes but this time I monitored the coolant temp sensor and for the first minute it read -40 and then settled at 93f so I thought maybe that's faulty and causing it

Yes reading through some very similar cases on the web it seems to point to coolant sensor.
As You have already got a new one I would personally change it and see how You go from there.
Plus that would eliminate it if it doesn't work.
Also they look really easy to change


Edited By: SENNYO1 on Jan 09, 2015 10:35
#20
Had exactly same problem a week ago on the GF's 60 plate Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi.
The battery had gone flat so jumped it from mine and it just would not start at all.

It had the cam sensor changed about a month ago so i knew it wasnt that.
All it needed was a squirt of Easy Engine Start in the air intake and it fired up while pressing the accelerator.

I'd give it a try before changing the Cam sensor - it only costs £4.50 at halfords
Easy Engine Start - £4.50 Halfords

EDIT: Sorry i missed that it is an intermittent fault.


Edited By: 118luke on Jan 09, 2015 10:49
#21
Hi!

Does the exhaust smell extremely rich or really weak? How is fuel economy at the moment? Given the age of the car I would suspect the O2 sensor. They can become unstable, working then failing, or they get moisture in them causing issues with start up and early idling.
#22
stefromuk
SENNYO1
Get the codes read and that will give you an answer.
Code readers are nice and cheap now or if you know somebody who's got one ask to borrow it.
Also it will save money in the long run as you wont be fishing around in the dark.

My Bad need to read full question.
But on another note surely if it was cam sensor that would show as a fault.
It did on my car when it had a similar problem.
Cleared all codes and started car read codes again and it came back straight away.
Yeah cheers I have a code reader and hooked it up when I first got it and it had no active codes but 1 stored old one saying cylinder 3 misfire but that got fixed with a HT coil by the AA.
I hooked it up again a few nights ago and no codes but this time I monitored the coolant temp sensor and for the first minute it read -40 and then settled at 93f so I thought maybe that's faulty and causing it

might need to bite the bullet and take and get it plugged into the dealer code reader, unless you have one of their types of readers some of the others don't give you the exact full codes. doesn't have to be a dealer just someone with access to the VAG machines.
#23
118luke
Had exactly same problem a week ago on the GF's 60 plate Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi.
The battery had gone flat so jumped it from mine and it just would not start at all.

It had the cam sensor changed about a month ago so i knew it wasnt that.
All it needed was a squirt of Easy Engine Start in the air intake and it fired up while pressing the accelerator.

I'd give it a try before changing the Cam sensor - it only costs £4.50 at halfords
Easy Engine Start - £4.50 Halfords

EDIT: Sorry i missed that it is an intermittent fault.

thanks for that.. But yeah it's only every now and again I've got some of that spray though I used it to clean up the air intake system.
My wife seems to think it's fuel related as she says she put in the higher grade petrol and she says it didn't happen as much but I'm not too sure.
But I am going to change the fuel filter anyway as the previous owner used to drive on nearly a empty tank all the time so maybe some crap in it
#24
Any faults involving sensors etc will leave a code stored in the ECU.

What may be happening is the main relay that powers up the ECU could be failing, no codes will be stored as the ECU will be off then the relay fails - Some VW's had an issue with the main relay (relay 109) and caused these symptoms. Seats of this age share a lot with VW's
Get a code reader on it when it won't start and see if you have trouble communicating with the ECU.

Bit hard to try and diagnose without knowing the engine type/size :)
#25
groenleader
Hi!

Does the exhaust smell extremely rich or really weak? How is fuel economy at the moment? Given the age of the car I would suspect the O2 sensor. They can become unstable, working then failing, or they get moisture in them causing issues with start up and early idling.
To be honest I've not checked the exhaust but I'll look thanks I didn't realise the Lambda sensor could cause this problem cheers!

eslick
stefromuk
SENNYO1
Get the codes read and that will give you an answer.
Code readers are nice and cheap now or if you know somebody who's got one ask to borrow it.
Also it will save money in the long run as you wont be fishing around in the dark.

My Bad need to read full question.
But on another note surely if it was cam sensor that would show as a fault.
It did on my car when it had a similar problem.
Cleared all codes and started car read codes again and it came back straight away.
Yeah cheers I have a code reader and hooked it up when I first got it and it had no active codes but 1 stored old one saying cylinder 3 misfire but that got fixed with a HT coil by the AA.
I hooked it up again a few nights ago and no codes but this time I monitored the coolant temp sensor and for the first minute it read -40 and then settled at 93f so I thought maybe that's faulty and causing it

might need to bite the bullet and take and get it plugged into the dealer code reader, unless you have one of their types of readers some of the others don't give you the exact full codes. doesn't have to be a dealer just someone with access to the VAG machines.
Yeah maybe so I've read about them vag com one
#26
andymagic
Any faults involving sensors etc will leave a code stored in the ECU.

What may be happening is the main relay that powers up the ECU could be failing, no codes will be stored as the ECU will be off then the relay fails - Some VW's had an issue with the main relay (relay 109) and caused these symptoms. Seats of this age share a lot with VW's
Get a code reader on it when it won't start and see if you have trouble communicating with the ECU.

Bit hard to try and diagnose without knowing the engine type/size :)
Yeah I'll try connecting when it's not starting,
I've got the Haynes manual here and it's naff it doesn't tell me which relay is which only where they all are :(
#27
stefromuk

Yeah I'll try connecting when it's not starting,
I've got the Haynes manual here and it's naff it doesn't tell me which relay is which only where they all are :(

What engine is it?
#28
Does it have a primer fuel pump?
i have a Leon and that was messing about for me a bit.
#29
andymagic
stefromuk

Yeah I'll try connecting when it's not starting,
I've got the Haynes manual here and it's naff it doesn't tell me which relay is which only where they all are :(

What engine is it?
It's a 1.2 petrol
#30
scooby76
Does it have a primer fuel pump?
i have a Leon and that was messing about for me a bit.
Not 100% what a primer one is I think you mean where you have to squeeze the but to manually fill the fuel up if so I don't think it is as there's no mention of that in the Haynes manual , I've been down to the scrap yard and grabbed a relay and a few sensors just for testing and I think the relay I picked up us wrong as its saying its a fuel system primer relay and not the fuel relay.

Edited By: stefromuk on Jan 09, 2015 20:45: .
#31
Next time it won't start, give the top of the speedo a bit of a bang, don't go nuts and get all Mike Tyson on it though.

My wife had a 2002 Polo 1.2 (basically the same car as the Ibiza 1.2 mechanically) and that would sometimes not start, turns out there was a bad solder joint inside the speedo that upset the immobiliser (which is housed in the speedo housing) - I soldered up the bad joint and it fixed it.
#32
andymagic
Next time it won't start, give the top of the speedo a bit of a bang, don't go nuts and get all Mike Tyson on it though.

My wife had a 2002 Polo 1.2 (basically the same car as the Ibiza 1.2 mechanically) and that would sometimes not start, turns out there was a bad solder joint inside the speedo that upset the immobiliser (which is housed in the speedo housing) - I soldered up the bad joint and it fixed it.
Lol thanks for that how the hell did you manage to trace it to that :)
I did initially think about the immobiliser but the light goes of on the dash .
So did you have to strip the whole dash to get to that or dies the speedo unit just pop out?
#33
I think it was desperation at the time and I had read about gauge issues so gave it a thump, the immo light was going off the whole time but the car not starting.

The gauge pod came out of the dash and was quite easy to remove, I think an hour would probably be long enough to sort.

Let us know how you get on :)
#34
Sounds like a lot of **** about to me, why not just take it to a garage ?
#35
TDog123
Sounds like a lot of **** about to me, why not just take it to a garage ?
Because it's only a cheap little car and it's once of them kind of jobs where it could be loads of different things and it would end up quite costly.
The previous owner did have it in a garage for this problem and they couldn't figure it out with it being so intermittent.
So I'm just trying the easy options first I changed the fuel pump relay,fuel filter and cam shaft sensor yesterday but then last night it didn't start so going to try the other suggestions today
#36
What are you using for a code reader?

On these you can't beat Vagcom (VCDS Lite) for the home user.

It costs less than £10 for a cable from ebay - the Lite version of the software is free and will do plenty.

Get yourself that cable, install the software and hook it up to your laptop. Go through device manager to make sure the port is set to 1,2,3 or 4 on the cable. Then set the software to match. Don't use autoscan as it rarely works properly. Instead choose the individual modules and scan for faults. I'd start with the engine module. Clear any faults found then check again a few days later to see if any have come back.

You can also monitor live data and records values etc.

It saves hours of time.

I'd be starting there and then going old school - as it is a petrol and you say it is turning over fine, then it is either a lack of fuel or a lack of spark. Or a timing issue between the two. As it runs normally once it is going (I presume it doesn't lack power etc) then I'm guessing the HT leads should be OK.

Temperature sensor would be a good place to start as it may be altering the amount of fuel being sent to compensate for an out of range value.
#37
nbuuifx
What are you using for a code reader?

On these you can't beat Vagcom (VCDS Lite) for the home user.

It costs less than £10 for a cable from ebay - the Lite version of the software is free and will do plenty.

Get yourself that cable, install the software and hook it up to your laptop. Go through device manager to make sure the port is set to 1,2,3 or 4 on the cable. Then set the software to match. Don't use autoscan as it rarely works properly. Instead choose the individual modules and scan for faults. I'd start with the engine module. Clear any faults found then check again a few days later to see if any have come back.

You can also monitor live data and records values etc.

It saves hours of time.

I'd be starting there and then going old school - as it is a petrol and you say it is turning over fine, then it is either a lack of fuel or a lack of spark. Or a timing issue between the two. As it runs normally once it is going (I presume it doesn't lack power etc) then I'm guessing the HT leads should be OK.

Temperature sensor would be a good place to start as it may be altering the amount of fuel being sent to compensate for an out of range value.

thanks for that I'm using a elm obd2 reader I looked at the vagcom didn't realise it was just a cable I needed I'll get one of them.
I know how to test for ignition by touching the spark plug onto the engine while turning, but testing for fuel I'm not 100% from what I believe is I disconnect the fuel pipe going into the injectors an into a suitable container and turn the key and see if fuel comes out.
does that sound right?
thanks for the advise not had time to look at it today though with kids :(
#38
The 1.2 engine has 'coil on plugs' so there aren't HT leads as such, the wiring to the COP units is all low voltage.

Going the VAGCOM route would be far better than a generic code reader.

Regarding the fuel side of things, there is usually a valve somewhere on the injector rail so you can check for the presence of fuel pressure - also, the injectors are quite noisy so can usually be heard 'ticking' when on the injection cycle.

The simple way to check for a spark is to give it a squirt of easy start, if there's a spark it WILL fire up (and die again)
#39
andymagic
The 1.2 engine has 'coil on plugs' so there aren't HT leads as such, the wiring to the COP units is all low voltage.

Going the VAGCOM route would be far better than a generic code reader.

Regarding the fuel side of things, there is usually a valve somewhere on the injector rail so you can check for the presence of fuel pressure - also, the injectors are quite noisy so can usually be heard 'ticking' when on the injection cycle.

The simple way to check for a spark is to give it a squirt of easy start, if there's a spark it WILL fire up (and die again)

thanks for the tips Andy really helps,
my problem is though that it's so random the starting/not starting like on Sat I tried it and it wouldn't start and thought nice one I'll pop the new fuel pump relay in and see if that works.
then thought I'll just check its definitely not starting and it came on!!
so it's hard to test as I need to catch it that one time it's not doing it lol
#40
No worries, glad to be of help.

Intermittent problems can be a pain to track down, but keep at it - it'll be something really simple so stick with it!!

Post an Answer

You don't need an account to leave a response. Just enter your email address. We'll keep it private.

...OR log in with your social account

...OR comment using your social account

Thanks for your comment! Keep it up!
We just need to have a quick look and it will be live soon.
The community is happy to hear your opinion! Keep contributing!