Would No More Nails stick up polystyrene coving to an artex ceiling alright? - HotUKDeals
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Would No More Nails stick up polystyrene coving to an artex ceiling alright?

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I've decided that I'm going to have a go at putting up some polystyrene coving - the top of the walls will be bare (will be papering later) and the ceiling has a circular artex pattern on it. On the H… Read More
Sophiasky Avatar
4m, 2d agoPosted 4 months, 2 days ago
I've decided that I'm going to have a go at putting up some polystyrene coving - the top of the walls will be bare (will be papering later) and the ceiling has a circular artex pattern on it. On the Homebase website it suggest a lightweight coving adhesive, however, I read the reviews and they are not that great - one person used it with panel pins and the following morning on removing the pins, the coving started to fall down. Can somebody tell me what they have used to stick up the coving, if they used the polystyrene type? Thank you.
Sophiasky Avatar
4m, 2d agoPosted 4 months, 2 days ago
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Responses/page:
#2
Yes it would
#3
That's pretty strong stuff.
Would it melt the polystyrene?
#4
No nails will easily hold polystyrene coving, as long as the surface is smooth, ie not artex!
Coving isn't easy to do though, right angles take a lot of practice to get right and corners that aren't 90 are trickier still. If you don't know what you're doing it'll look awful.
#5
Only the non solvent one. Will have a tick list on the tube and this would be listed.


Edited By: bigweapon07 on Feb 21, 2017 19:22
#6
My tip, get the job done properly & then you ain't got to go back to it again. Skim the ceiling & plaster coving.
#7
I used to put plaster coving in all my rooms over the last few years. It's still there so lighter coving should be no trouble.
#8
Be careful some old artex contains asbestos for the fibres!
#9
You want solvent free no nails or it may melt the coving. I would use caulk mastic or the proper stuff as advised on the cove package. Hold in place with small nails along the bottom and top until dry. Seen ready mixed tile adhesive used to to stick it to. Caulk will do the job but leave a week before you paint.
#10
Graeminator
Be careful some old artex contains asbestos for the fibres!

I've already had the artex checked out for asbestos and it is fine in the sitting room. Thank you anyway.
#11
Worth spending the extra couple of quid for the corner mitre
#12
you'll never get it off again! lol
#13
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )

Edited By: jjaack on Feb 21, 2017 22:13
#14
Definitely. Make sure it's a coving mitre block though, they have little diagrams of which way to cut. It's a lot harder than mitring skirting or architrave, your kind of having to kind of do it in 3 dimensions.
#15
buy the coving adhesive
#16
Only one way to find out. Yolo
#17
Practice doing the corners with end cuts first. For a novice, It is really tricky to get them to join properly with no gaps.
#18
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )

Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
#19
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.

Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
#20
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.

Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.


Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.

Edited By: stefromuk on Feb 22, 2017 09:01: .
#21
Screw fix in my opinion do the best no more nails type stuff.
#22
stefromuk
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.

Wouldn't you still need a mitre block to cut through the bits to fit the wall? Also, I've seen the pre-cut corners for sale but some of the reviews were not great - said they did not fit properly - did you have any trouble when you did your coving? Thank you.
#23
stefromuk
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.
Definitely caulk before papering
#24
chocci
stefromuk
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.
Definitely caulk before papering

Have you any idea as to how long to leave it (after putting up the coving) before caulking the gaps? Thank you.
#25
Sophiasky
chocci
stefromuk
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.
Definitely caulk before papering
Have you any idea as to how long to leave it (after putting up the coving) before caulking the gaps? Thank you.
depends on the adhesive. I would leave No more nails at least overnight and preferably 24 hours.

Dab the adhesive along the coving every foot or so rather than a continuous line and get someone else to help. Dont glue it until corners have been cut and are perfect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvMOWkvIeBA



Edited By: chocci on Feb 22, 2017 10:27
#26
I painted mine first - it's easier.

Then used UHU glue to stick it on, the new coving is very smooth, not like the old stuff.
#27
Yep as suggested above one dot of no nails every 10/12 inches.
It goes off in about 2 hrs or quicker.
The caulk took a bit longer to go off use manufactures instructions.
We used a mitre block to cut the coving using a packer bit and making sure the coving was at 90°, there are only 4x angles that are needed, think about it! This did my head in a bit : ) best way i found was,
cut the 4 angles, use about 8 inch peices 2 internal (more common) 2x external if req'd, mark them A,B,C and D and hold them up to the ceiling before cutting the actual pieces/lenghts needed, it's trickier than it seams (see what i did there)I found doing this made it a lot easier to get my head around lol, you'll see.
Good luck.

Edited By: jjaack on Feb 22, 2017 11:20
#28
jjaack
Yep as suggested above one dot of no nails every 10/12 inches.
It goes off in about 2 hrs or quicker.
The caulk took a bit longer to go off use manufactures instructions.
We used a mitre block to cut the coving using a packer bit and making sure the coving was at 90°, there are only 4x angles that are needed, think about it! This did my head in a bit : ) best way i found was,
cut the 4 angles, use about 8 inch peices 2 internal (more common) 2x external if req'd, mark them A,B,C and D and hold them up to the ceiling before cutting the actual pieces, it's trickier than it seams I found doing this made it a lot easier to get my head around lol, you'll see.
Good luck.

Thank you for the advice.
#29
Sophiasky
jjaack
Yep as suggested above one dot of no nails every 10/12 inches.
It goes off in about 2 hrs or quicker.
The caulk took a bit longer to go off use manufactures instructions.
We used a mitre block to cut the coving using a packer bit and making sure the coving was at 90°, there are only 4x angles that are needed, think about it! This did my head in a bit : ) best way i found was,
cut the 4 angles, use about 8 inch peices 2 internal (more common) 2x external if req'd, mark them A,B,C and D and hold them up to the ceiling before cutting the actual pieces, it's trickier than it seams I found doing this made it a lot easier to get my head around lol, you'll see.
Good luck.
Thank you for the advice.

Sorry, I forgot to ask - what is a packer bit - googled it and can't find anything?
#30
Ok. When you lay the coving in the mitre block the mitre block is made to cut other stuff picture rail etc. The coving will need to be upright 90 degrees so find a bit of wood or similar to use as packing to keep the coving at this angle while cutting. If that's not clear just ask again : / lol.
practice on bits first.


Edited By: jjaack on Feb 22, 2017 11:57
#31
Sophiasky
stefromuk
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
We used no nails on polystyrene coving but it was covered with a thin paper/card layer from bnq. It has stayed up fine, we used small nails to hold it up in 2x places while it set (uneven join in ceiling) we then used the cheap white caulk they sell to fill all the gaps all the way around obviously using more on the ceiling gap as it's bigger because of the art ex did 2x rooms 3 months ago and they look good, Mum and Dad well impressed : )
Did you caulk the gaps immediately after putting the coving up - just thought that if it was accidently knocked before glue setting, it would fall down? Also, how long did you wait before you could paint the polystyrene? Thank you.
Just an afterthought - do I glue the polystyrene up, then caulk it, paint it, and finally put up the patterned paper, or would it be better to glue first, paint it, put the patterned paper up and then lastly caulk? Thought it might be better to paper up to the coving and then finally put the caulk up (and carefully paint it so none gets on the paper)? Thank you.
Yeah I would stick it On, paint it, wallpaper then caulk.
also when I did my coving they sold pre cut corners in bags so saves you messing around.

Wouldn't you still need a mitre block to cut through the bits to fit the wall? Also, I've seen the pre-cut corners for sale but some of the reviews were not great - said they did not fit properly - did you have any trouble when you did your coving? Thank you.


yes you will still need something to cut the main pieces square.
I didn't have any issues with with the pre cut corners but but I think problems arise when the corners of your wall are off and not square.
the reason I did the caulk afterwards is because I'm not the world's best at wallpapering so it hides any little gaps I might have left lol
#32
Sophiasky
Sophiasky
jjaack
Yep as suggested above one dot of no nails every 10/12 inches.
It goes off in about 2 hrs or quicker.
The caulk took a bit longer to go off use manufactures instructions.
We used a mitre block to cut the coving using a packer bit and making sure the coving was at 90°, there are only 4x angles that are needed, think about it! This did my head in a bit : ) best way i found was,
cut the 4 angles, use about 8 inch peices 2 internal (more common) 2x external if req'd, mark them A,B,C and D and hold them up to the ceiling before cutting the actual pieces, it's trickier than it seams I found doing this made it a lot easier to get my head around lol, you'll see.
Good luck.
Thank you for the advice.

Sorry, I forgot to ask - what is a packer bit - googled it and can't find anything?


I think he means because the coving is loose in the block so he packed it out with something to stop it moving whilst cutting.
#33
Yes and no.
If you lay the coving in the mitre block and look along the length it may/will? Be tipping back, it needs to be upright... 90 degrees or the cut angle won't line up.
A picture says a thousand words, nearly there ; )))))
#34
Ok, I understand that about the mitre block. I watched a YouTube video and the man said to keep the coving upright when cutting, or else it just tries to lie flat - thank you all for your advice.

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