Haynes Car Manuals £12.99 Delivered @ Woolworths - HotUKDeals
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Haynes Car Manuals £12.99 Delivered @ Woolworths

saintscouple Avatar
8y, 5m agoFound 8 years, 5 months ago
Easiest way to find them online is to type the car manufacturer, then click on books, and then travel.
If anyone can find cheaper, please post.
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saintscouple Avatar
8y, 5m agoFound 8 years, 5 months ago
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#1
Excellent price. I paid £19 for one of these from Halfords 3 weeks ago.
P.S don't forget 8% Quidco
#4
I've found that Haynes Manuals are not worth the paper they are printed on now.

Bring back the old versions that actually tell you what to do...........

e.g. In the Haynes manual for my BMW to take the door apart all it says is ....." Remove Door Panel".............errrrrrrrrr.......HOW ? :?

Don't waste your money.......you'll find more info online with a bit of searching ! :thumbsup:
#5
Mecoconuts
I've found that Haynes Manuals are not worth the paper they are printed on now.

Bring back the old versions that actually tell you what to do...........

e.g. In the Haynes manual for my BMW to take the door apart all it says is ....." Remove Door Panel".............errrrrrrrrr.......HOW ? :?

Don't waste your money.......you'll find more info online with a bit of searching ! :thumbsup:


lol funny you should say that, i found a photo of the location of the crankshaft sensor, which i was after, online a couple of hours ago.
Just going to have a play now after picking up a socket set.
#6
thebrowns98
Excellent price. I paid £19 for one of these from Halfords 3 weeks ago.
P.S don't forget 8% Quidco


Just FYI- It's not 8%, Qudico site says: 3% for household electricals, books ... 8% for clothing

Still a good deal :thumbsup:
#7
Voted HOT - but as they get into a state in no time - I normally get one from someone local on ebay where I can pick it up. - Recycling at its best - and if you email them to ask if its OK to pick up - most will do it outwith Ebay to save the fees - and you know you will get it if you pick it up yourself.

A good way to recycle and let Ebay pay the advertising costs!
#8
Ebay is best for these ;o)
#9
Freecycle is a good thing too you know. Its part of yahoo groups and you just join the group relevant to where you live.

People recycle loads of things on this and its all local to you so no postage costs just travelling time :)

http://www.uk.freecycle.org/
#10
Often referred to on
uk.rec.cars.maintenance
as HBOL - Haynes Book Of Lies :p
1 Like #11
HMmmmmmm good price.
#12
I would also look at joining model specific internet forums for your cars, it's astounding how much info is already out there and the people are usually more than happy to help.

You might even find willing local members who don't mind getting their hands dirty for the price of a few beer tokens. Great way to meet new friends.
#13
Haynes Manuals
The good ole A to Z on how to fix your car.
The problem being: They always seem to miss out steps B to Y
#14
Given that the manufacturers workshop manuals for the cars we work on at work come on 2 DVD's (and that's just 2 models, 1 DVD each) and the workshop manuals for the 80's and 90's models which are in nice old fashioned printed paper version take up about 2 metres of shelving *each* I'd not really be surprised that Haynes manuals don't tell you all that much.

At the same time I own a Haynes manual for the exact same car that I have the full manufacturers workshop manual for, there is a very good reason for this.... when I have broken down in the middle of nowhere then at least the Haynes will let me attempt to fix/diagnose the problem while waiting, the electrical diagrams are at least usually reasonable. Failing that they will make good firelighters so I can make a cuppa while I'm waiting for the tow truck.

For the price they are they work out as a reasonable buy, certainly not worth complaining about given how small they are, they just can't cover everything.
#15
If you are on a budget give your local scrapyard a ring, they normally sell them for about £2 with dirty fingerprints included :-)
Good price by the way.
#16
Got to agree with the other posts suggesting ebay. I got mine for my old shed (Espace). Actually since it died horribly in Glossop last year I still havn't got around to selling it on! Thanks for the reminder!

Good price though if you want a new one.
#17
Stick this link in your favourites.

[url]www.bookkoob.co.uk[/url]
#18
pjlhot
Often referred to on
uk.rec.cars.maintenance
as HBOL - Haynes Book Of Lies :p


I think most of us in the know use that term :lol: I just love the spanner ratings. They're probably spot on if you've got a car direct from the factory to work on, add a bit of muck, grime and rust though....... 1 spanner becomes a swear fest and 2 spanners will likely turn you into a serial killer :w00t:
#19
You just need to learn how to deal with seized nuts, snapping bolts etc. Some people rave about plusgas, never tried it myself but never had any success with penetrating oils myself.

Struggled with track rod end split pins and nuts for ages and ages, lots of swearing. Blow torch on em for 5 minutes, and jobs was a goodun.

The thing that strikes me about the manual for my car is for many things they seem to assume you're a mechanic, and not fully describing things. Also the initial steering rack measurements they provided turned out to be well over 15 turns wrong on the tracking machine.
#20
anewman
Struggled with track rod end split pins and nuts for ages and ages, lots of swearing. Blow torch on em for 5 minutes, and jobs was a goodun.


You do know if they spot any 'bluing' on the rack rods its an MOT fail as it weakens the metal when you heat it up? So remember to use loads of moly grease when you've finished 'to stop the rust' :lol:
#21
Critical information for anyone planning to use a Haynes manual:

TRANSLATING THE HAYNES MOTOR MAINTENANCE MANUALS

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read right through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Prise off...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size).

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: PINGGGG - "Jesus, where the hell did that go?"

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two).

Haynes: Lightly slacken...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it.

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned you!

Haynes: One spanner rating.
Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact, that would have been more use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating.
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you?

Haynes: Five spanner rating.
Translation: OK - but don't ever transport your loved ones in it again.

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some molegrips and a hammer...

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife, "Yep, it's as I thought, it's going to need a new one"

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to suffer serious abrasions.

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Difficult to reach ...
Translation: Assembled at the factory and never meant to be touched.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Using a suitable drift...
Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: RAC Card & Mobile Phone (but don't forget your molegrips and hammer!)

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Alternatively, clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do.
#22
anewman
Stick this link in your favourites.

[url]www.bookkoob.co.uk[/url]


You're having a laugh... use the above link and it reakons the cheapest is from The Hut @ £13.43 :w00t::w00t::w00t:
#23
Shengis;2420422
You do know if they spot any 'bluing' on the rack rods its an MOT fail as it weakens the metal when you heat it up? So remember to use loads of moly grease when you've finished 'to stop the rust' :lol:


Was replacing them anyway :D but did not know that, so will have to be careful in future :thinking: :-D
#24
saintscouple;2420977
You're having a laugh... use the above link and it reakons the cheapest is from The Hut @ £13.43 :w00t::w00t::w00t:


It does search quite a few places though :thumbsup: so it can be useful
#25
[FONT=Arial]HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...." [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing (fender). [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.[/SIZE][/FONT]
#26
thanks saved me a few bob as i was looking for one anyway,saved £8.00 on the book and about £5 on petrol to get it.
Cheers,Iain.
banned#27
smally54
thanks saved me a few bob as i was looking for one anyway,saved £8.00 on the book and about £5 on petrol to get it.
Cheers,Iain.


Welcome to HUKD's, how did you, get it?
#28
black knight
Ebay is best for these ;o)



Not sure whether that was meant to be tongue-in-cheek or not but in my experience eBay is most certainly NOT the best place for these.
Had already looked on there for the one for my motor and couldn't believe the rip-off prices some of the people on there want...even more than Halfrauds.

Thanks OP.got it delivered for Wednesday and saved quite a few quid too.Heat and rep given.

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