Olympus EE-420 + 14-42mm lens + 40-150mm + Battery £345.40 inc delivery @ Pixmania ( possibly £324.68 with quidco) - HotUKDeals
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Found this deal and thought it was an absolute bargain price for a 10mp digital slr which includes a double lens pack and battery!

This package is £419.99 in argos without the battery!

£336 including vat + £9.40 p+p = £345.40

possible 6% quidco would make it £324.68 including delivery!

Heres the spec below and really hope this helps someone out!

Olympus has added another camera to its popular E-400 range with the E-420!

This model is the successor to the E-410 and is loaded with a host of powerful technologies, including an 11.8-megapixel Live MOS sensor and a large 2.7" LCD screen.
The E-420 is incredibly portable and easy to use, and is one of the smallest digital SLR cameras ever made by its manufacturer, Olympus. It captures images with bright colours and finite details, thanks to its face detection system and special compensation function, which counteracts the effects of shade. It has 18 scene modes and 28 shooting modes, so even beginners can try their hand at photography and get brilliant results.

The E-420 is also equipped with an automatic mode, a semi-automatic mode and a manual mode for greater flexibility when you're taking photos. Its Live MOS sensor pays attention to detail, while its anti-dust filter, unique to Olympus, uses a supersonic wave to dislodge any dust that has settled on the sensor. This filter is activated every time you turn the camera on, so you can be sure of taking fantastic shots every time! With the E-420, Olympus has shown us yet again that high-tech photography is accessible to everyone!

Please note that this SLR camera is supplied with a 14-42mm lens, which can be used for wide-angle photography, as well as a 40-150mm telephoto lens and a spare battery.
Type Type Reflex for the general public
Sensor Resolution 11.8-megapixels
10 effective
Type Live MOS
Size 4/3" (18 x 13.5 mm)
Format 4:3
Crop factor 2x
ISO positions Auto: ISO 100 - 1600 in increments of 1/3 IL
Manual: ISO 100 - 1600 in increments of 1/3 IL
Cleaning Fixed LPF filter
Hybird IR cut filter
Supersonic wave filter
Image stabiliser Mechanical
Lens Focal length 14 - 42
35mm equivalent 28-84 mm with 14-42 mm lens
80-300 mm with 40-150 mm lens
Aperture 14-42 mm 1:3.5-5.6 lens: f/3.5-5.6
40-150 mm 1:4.0-5.6 lens: f/4-5.6
Optical zoom 14-42 mm 1:3.5-5.6 lens: 3x
40-150 mm 1:4.0-5.6 lens: 3.8x
Digital zoom Depends on the lens used
Minimum distance 25 cm with the ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 lens
Normal distance From 25 cm upwards with the ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 lens
From 90 cm upwards with the ED 40-150 mm 1:4.0-5.6 lens
Focusing 3-point multiple AF (Auto, selectable in option)
TTL phase-difference detection system, Contrast detection system
Viewfinder Type Optical and Live View
Screen 2.7" HyperCrystal LCD screen (6.9 cm)
230,000 pixels
Brightness control: 15 levels
Colour balance: 15 levels
Viewfinder features Eye-level single-lens reflex viewfinder
Field of view: Approx. 95%
Viewfinder magnification: Approx.0.92x
Eye point Approx. 14 mm
Diopter adjustment
Focusing screen
Quick Return Mirror
Settings Exposure modes (1) Auto (2) P: Program AE (Program shift can be performed) (3) A: Aperture priority AE (4) S: Shutter priority AE (5) M: Manual (6) Scene program AE (7) Scene select AE
Effects Bright, neutral, basic, Black&White (default setting: neutral)
White balance Advanced detection system with Live MOS sensor
Manual balance
7 selectable levels, overcast, shade, tungsten, sunlight, flash, fluorescent 1/2/3
Video Video mode No
TV output NTSC or PAL video output
Memory Photo file formats JPEG, EXIF 2,2, PIM III, DPOF, DCF
Maximum photo resolution 3648 x 2736
Memory card Compact Flash I, Compact Flash II, Microdrive, xD picture
Internal memory No
Other Power options Lithium batteries
Internal menus English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian, Czech, Dutch, Danish and Polish
Other functions Image processing: colour space, 5 sharpness and contrast settings, 5 saturation settings, colour filter, black and white filter and 4 gradation levels
TTL phase-difference detection system, contrast detection system
Focusing point: 3 points / 11 points, automatic and manual selection of AF contrast detection system
TTL open-aperture metering system
Face detection
Noise reduction
AE bracketing

Scene modes: portrait, landscape, landscape with portrait, night scene, night scene with portrait, children, sports, high light, low light, image stabilisation mode, macro, nature macro, candle, sunset, fireworks, documents, sun and snow, panorama
Hard copy manuals supplied Information available soon
Accessories supplied Zuiko Digital ED 14-42 mm 1:3.5-5.6 lens, ED 40-150 mm 1:4.0-5.6 lens, BC-1 body cap, BLS-1 rechargeable Li-ion battery, spare Li-ion battery, BCS-1 charger, EP-4 eyepiece cap, wrist strap, CB-USB6 USB cable, CB-VC2 video cable, CD-ROM
Software supplied OLYMPUS Master 2.0
OLYMPUS Studio 2 Trial
Dimensions 129.5 x 91 x 53 mm
Weight 380g
Shutter Speed Shutter speed:
Auto mode: 2 - 1/4000 sec. (depends on settings), P(Ps), S, A, M mode: 60 - 1/4000 sec. (Bulb: up to 8 min. with limiter), Scene program/Scene select mode: 4 - 1/4000 sec. (depends on settings) 1/3EV steps
Burst mode Yes
Self-timer 2 or 12 seconds
Flash Built-in Internal flash: auto, red-eye reduction, slow sync, 2nd shutter slow sync, fill in, slow sync with red-eye reduction, off

Guide number / Flash range Guide number: 12
Hot-shoe adapter for external flash Yes
Connections Interface High-speed USB 2.0
Pictbridge / direct printing Yes
Wireless function No
Downloadable manual (1 download available in a language of your choice after purchase ): German, Spanish, French, Greek, Italian, Dutch, Polish, Englis
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banned#2
Available here for £369.98.

http://www.fotosense.co.uk/olympus-e420-ed-14-42mm-and-40-150mm-twin-lens-kit-with-battery-and-charger.html


Pixmania will always have a stigma attatched to it for their poor record reported here for after sales. I have bought 1 item from them about 7 years ago and experienced no problems whatsoever (although the product never failed).
#3
Looks like a great deal for an SLR.
I've not had any experience with Olympus cameras so I can't really give an opinion on how good they are.

3.5 fps is good for this price.

Just something to note though:
If you are familiar with 35mm shooting remember that this camera has a 2x crop factor which is pretty massive for any SLR.
Even though this is stated in the specs I thought I'd highlight it here again.

35mm equivalent:
28-84 mm with 14-42 mm lens
80-300 mm with 40-150 mm lens

This means it's no wider an angle than a Canon 100D/450D with a 18mm lens (crop factor of 1.6x).
However such a crop factor can benefit a telephoto lens.
#4
Good Info Magic Monkey. Though anyone buying Olympus, keep in mind, the cameras are very good, but finding cheap and after market lens and accessories is very difficult in the UK. In the US you can still get by, but here, everything will cost you. I have an Oly E520, which is great. But when it comes to buying an extra lense, I am struggling as all Oly glass is very expensive.

In hindsight, as a first DSLR I'd go for the Nikon 3000 or 5000. They lack some of the features of the OLy and the glass is not as good as the Oly, but you can experiment with tamron and sigma lenses and aftermarket flashes a lot.
#5
unileeds
Good Info Magic Monkey. Though anyone buying Olympus, keep in mind, the cameras are very good, but finding cheap and after market lens and accessories is very difficult in the UK. In the US you can still get by, but here, everything will cost you. I have an Oly E520, which is great. But when it comes to buying an extra lense, I am struggling as all Oly glass is very expensive.

In hindsight, as a first DSLR I'd go for the Nikon 3000 or 5000. They lack some of the features of the OLy and the glass is not as good as the Oly, but you can experiment with tamron and sigma lenses and aftermarket flashes a lot.


This is very good advice.

What most ppl don't realise is when you buy a DSLR, you are not just buying a camera but a whole system. Anything you buy in addition will have to fit your system and is usually not interchangeable with other systems. The price for the basic camera and lens should not be the deciding factor for buying a DSLR. You must look at the whole system. Check if the maker provides the accessories you might want in the future and how much the whole system cost in total before you buy a DSLR.

Olympus is using the 3/4 system. Panasonic is the other maker which has signed up for this sytem. This means you can share Olympus and Panasonic lenses on both makes but with no other make such as Canon, Pentax or Nikon..
#6
I have a e-510 and E-3 both excellent cameras - true you do find 3rd party accessories hard to find so if you intend buying 3rd party lenses etc then this is not for you but some of the features are superb like sensor cleaning (best on market) and Image stability built into camera not lenses(so works with all lenses not just IS lens)
If you want a great camera and not worried about Nikon/Canon snobbery (yes it exists lol) then I wouldn`t hesitate in at least looking at one before you think of buying - you may be pleasantly surprised
Great price and heat added - never dealt with Pixmania though
#7
I have found it fairly easy to pick up a decent range of lenses - that are superb quality. Older OM lenses can be bought cheaply as can the adapter. Compatible batteries have been reasonable, and the memory cards are standard cf (or xd if you really want).
#8
I've taken a chance with Pixmania's reputation and gone and ordered one. Finger's crossed...!

Thanks OP, heat and rep added
#9
Good SLR and not too bad deal but, it is perhaps a little bit pricy for a last year's model. I don't think that I would pay that much for this SLR but if you've bought it you will probably be happy with the camera. I bought the E-510 twin lens kit in 2008 for £296 but I suppose exchange rates have pushed up prices a lot since then.
#10
EarlGrey
I've taken a chance with Pixmania's reputation and gone and ordered one. Finger's crossed...!

Thanks OP, heat and rep added


Lets know about your experiences with Pixmania.
#11
Good camera this. I've had one myself for a year or so. Smallest SLR in the world. There are some really good lenses available for this format as well: the ZD 50mm F2 is amazingly sharp. The 28mm pancake is good as well and a perfect match for the miniscule proportions of the E-420.

One thing to bear in mind though: Live view is very slow. Don't buy it for that reason.
#12
1 other factor to consider is how it fits to the palm of your hand.
olympus makes some of the lightest and smallest DSLR, great for girls
but because the camera is not tall, sometimes the last finger hangs out, or half on the camera which is not too comfortable.
talking from experience as i have the e520
#13
I am a complete newb when it comes to dslr's but am looking to buy one this year. The main reason I will need one is for portrait photography as I work in a school with a lot of underprivelaged children, many of whom's parents cannot afford the proffessional photographers portraits. Would this be a good camera and lens combo for achieving proffesional looking portrait photo's or would anyone on here be so kind as to recommend an alternative. My budget would be up to £500. Thanks in advance!
#14
I'm a Canon man have been for over 30 years but if I was looking for a DSLR and hadn't already got Canon accessories I'd be tempted by Olympus they make some quality kit . Only drawback as has been said if you have sausage fingers like me forget it!
That is a good deal though
#15
Good camera - heat added.

There are these guys who sell camera (not sure how good/bad they are since I have never bought from them) for around £325 if you want to avoid Pixmania.

http://www.b4udirect.com/Consumer%20SLR%20Cameras/Olympus/b4u35076715
#16
lucas
I am a complete newb when it comes to dslr's but am looking to buy one this year. The main reason I will need one is for portrait photography as I work in a school with a lot of underprivelaged children, many of whom's parents cannot afford the proffessional photographers portraits. Would this be a good camera and lens combo for achieving proffesional looking portrait photo's or would anyone on here be so kind as to recommend an alternative. My budget would be up to £500. Thanks in advance!


You must get one that can accept external flash but aside from that I would have thought just about any modern camera would do, even if not SLR. I am not a professional photographer but have several friends who are. I think the advice they would give you is that to achieve professional-looking child portraits you should worry less about the camera and more about lighting, background, and props. Backgrounds are cheap can even be made from old sheets but lighting and those white umbrella things can get a bit dear. To get good shots of children you will be amazed how much effort you have to spend on things to make them laugh etc. for example teddy bears on sticks or even learning simple magic tricks.

If you just buy a decent camera and shoot then the photos can still be good but will not even approach that special quality that makes people go "wow, professional!" I have an earlier model Olympus SLR (E510) and it would fine for your purposes so I'm sure this EE420 package would be as well. Just remember the other stuff is more important!
#17
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that this DSLR has image stabilisation. I'm looking to buy an entry -level DSLR having never owned one before. How important is image stabilisation?
#18
It doesn't have mechanical image stabilization (just some gimmicky digital stabilization), which is what put me off buying one when I was looking at DSLRs. Its importance depends on what you'll be using the camera for - if you plan to do a lot of low-light or handheld telephoto work its near-essential in my opinion.
#19
cold because it's pixmania and i would gladly pay more than deal with this company again.
#20
lucas
I am a complete newb when it comes to dslr's but am looking to buy one this year. The main reason I will need one is for portrait photography as I work in a school with a lot of underprivelaged children, many of whom's parents cannot afford the proffessional photographers portraits. Would this be a good camera and lens combo for achieving proffesional looking portrait photo's or would anyone on here be so kind as to recommend an alternative. My budget would be up to £500. Thanks in advance!


I am going to becontroversial and recommend that you use a 35mm film camera. For protraits a lense in the region of 50 to 100mm is ideal and I would recommend a wide angle lense say 20-35mm for group photos. For about £500 you could kit yourself out very well with film equipment (camera, lenses, perhaps a light meter and lighting gear) but if you were to go down the dslr route a camera , lense and a flash is all you would get for £500.
#21
lucas
I am a complete newb when it comes to dslr's but am looking to buy one this year. The main reason I will need one is for portrait photography as I work in a school with a lot of underprivelaged children, many of whom's parents cannot afford the proffessional photographers portraits. Would this be a good camera and lens combo for achieving proffesional looking portrait photo's or would anyone on here be so kind as to recommend an alternative. My budget would be up to £500. Thanks in advance!


£500 is a lot of money. The olympus would be a good bet. TBH, you have to hold it in your hand. See how stable your grip is, I find it shakes a bit in my hands. Also If you are looking to shooot indoors without enough light, ALL 4/3rds will struggle. I got around this by buying a third party external flash, which really gets the CAMERA GOING!! The Vivitar 283 are £50 in the US and well worth it.
Also if you are looking to take pics indoors, try going for a faster Prime lens. The numbers before the lens 1.8, 2.8, 3.5, 4.5, 5.6 etc tell you the aperature, but indirectly tell you how fast a lens is. the lower the number, the more light gets into the cmaera, and you can take better pics indoors. This means that as more light is being let in the lens, the camera has to open the shutter for a shorter period thus reducing BLUR ALOT!!

So sometimes, it is better to go for just the body, and buy a fast lens seperately for the purpose. I know people who have bought a 2 or 3 lens kit, and have not even touched the second lens.

To summarise, I think the E420 would be good as long as you pair it with an external flash.

BTW ONE VERY ANNOYING THING ABOUT THE OLY: It does not have the red AF illuminator other cameras have. SO it pops the flash up and flashes bursts of 6-8 flashes to get a AF lock in low light... VERY VERY VERY annoying, specially if you are taking pics of babies, animals, or pple. Hence the use of an external flash with the AF illuminator built in.
#22
Capt Kirk
I am going to becontroversial and recommend that you use a 35mm film camera. For protraits a lense in the region of 50 to 100mm is ideal and I would recommend a wide angle lense say 20-35mm for group photos. For about £500 you could kit yourself out very well with film equipment (camera, lenses, perhaps a light meter and lighting gear) but if you were to go down the dslr route a camera , lense and a flash is all you would get for £500.


It is controversial, specially for a newbie. I think DSLRs are very forgiving. A film camera, does not give you the chance to learn easily. I mean you mess up a shot, you wont know till you actually have the print in hand.

I would say, and this is again two options.
Oly E520 with the standard kit lens 14mm-42mm £339
Buy the Oly 40-150mm Lens from PC world for £99, make sure it is the faster f3.5 to 4.5 ratehr than the 4.5-5.6
Buy external flash from the US Vivitar 283 for £55+shipping.
CF card 4 GB £20
Case Lowepro one on Hotukdeals for £15
UV filters, additional filters and extra battery from 7 dayshop £25 MAX

DONE!

Second option
Nikon D3000 18-105mm VR kit lens £489
Plus everything else as stated in the oly option
#23
Good advice in unileeds posts. I have the old e410 and the indoor images are not good at all using the existing flash. Also the flash assist strobe is rubbish, if your subject moves you will be blinding them and then getting a poor image as an end result. (Strangely the 450D does not suffer this despite using the same assist method)

My wife needed some acting photos recently and it was interesting that the professionals did not use SLRs at all. They were using Leica cameras and good lighting.
#24
wolfcentric
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that this DSLR has image stabilisation. I'm looking to buy an entry -level DSLR having never owned one before. How important is image stabilisation?


That's correct, the E-420/E-450 don't have onboard stabilisation whereas the E-520/E-620/E-30/E-3 all do. It depends on what type of shooting you do as to how important stabilisation is however unless you're always shooting in bright light I find image stabilisation extremely useful as it means you can get sharper shots handheld, particularly at the long end of the 40-150mm. Although Canon/Nikon don't have onboard IS, they have a decent range of stabilised lenses (including the kit ones) - Olympus don't produce any stabilised lenses and Panasonic only produce a handful (three in total, one is expensive and another is extremely expensive)

I think it's worth paying a bit more for the E-520, not only does it offer stabilisation for all lenses but it also has better battery capacity, I think it's better to have a handgrip and it also offers more shortcuts on the back.

A word of note on this deal - there are two versions of the 40-150mm, the original version is the one pictured whereas the second version (identical focal length) is smaller. The first lens is considered to be optically better whereas the second one is smaller and lighter, may be worth checking if expecting a certain version of it.

John
#25
malaprop


My wife needed some acting photos recently and it was interesting that the professionals did not use SLRs at all. They were using Leica cameras and good lighting.


I assume you're referring to rangefinders, that type of setup is the exception rather than the rule - most working professionals on the move are using Canon/Nikon SLRs which offer advanced AF and impressive high ISO. Studio based professionals are likely to use larger medium format systems, while Leica have the MF S2 it's a pretty rare camera at the moment.

John
#26
its great to hear all the awesome advise in the threads, I am looking at buying a cheap slr to start off with, i am on a budget and was looking at a sony alpha a230 for the reason theres £50 cashback at the moment, does anyone know of the cheapest place to find one on the net new ( before cashback price) thanks for your help in advance:thumbsup:
#27
seems, good.. i would go with canon or maybe nikon, as digital SLR photography is progressive, Most people do upgrade cameras after few years, so its better to start with a good brand, and stick to it,
As many will start to Add new lens, flash etc, which will be useless if you change brands.

If you not plan to upgrade cameras than this seems good as a package
#28
wolfcentric
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that this DSLR has image stabilisation. I'm looking to buy an entry -level DSLR having never owned one before. How important is image stabilisation?


Get a Canon 500D kit, the lens has IS in built also records HD video, great little camera

or The Sony A DSLR's have IS built in to the camera body.

Canon is better over all, much more choice of lens and flashes etc, however sony are starting to grab a bigger pice of the pie from canon and nikon.
#29
DFD
its great to hear all the awesome advise in the threads, I am looking at buying a cheap slr to start off with, i am on a budget and was looking at a sony alpha a230 for the reason theres £50 cashback at the moment, does anyone know of the cheapest place to find one on the net new ( before cashback price) thanks for your help in advance:thumbsup:


Jessops are currently offering a better Sony (the Alpha A700 + DT 18-70mm f/3.5 - 5.6) for £399. It has a better lens and although slightly aged now still is a great camera.
#30
lucas
I am a complete newb when it comes to dslr's but am looking to buy one this year. The main reason I will need one is for portrait photography as I work in a school with a lot of underprivelaged children, many of whom's parents cannot afford the proffessional photographers portraits. Would this be a good camera and lens combo for achieving proffesional looking portrait photo's or would anyone on here be so kind as to recommend an alternative. My budget would be up to £500. Thanks in advance!


it has the following functions

Portrait
Landscxape
portrait AND landscape
Beach
snow
documents
panoramic (needs xd card)
sport (which is awesome with rapid photos to get the perfect pic)

there are more, the portrait mode is very good, but you would probably want to ask for advice on a flash as i have no clue

personally this camera is brilliant for everything except night time shots.. i just cant work it out!!

its also better using the lens rather than the using the screen to get shots
#31
unileeds


Second option
Nikon D3000 18-105mm VR kit lens £489
Plus everything else as stated in the oly option



Yea that would be nice for portraits as you need a longer lens than the standard 18-55mm type kit lens that you get with most kits. 80-100mm is the kind of range for portraits.

If you buy it in the next 2 days you can get £30 cashback from Nikon too.

Getting an external flash might be good too, the SB400 costs around £100. Jessops is the cheapest at the moment at £94.05 if you use code JESSOPS5
That would push you up to £553 but would be a very nice portrait set up.
.
.
#32
rowlystravel


personally this camera is brilliant for everything except night time shots.. i just cant work it out!!



Are you manually setting the iso or using automatic? The Olympus auto-iso system is rubbish so you're best setting the iso manually in poor light. If you're still using the kit lenses then you're going to be quite limited for taking low light shots as they're not particularly bright lenses (same with all kit lenses). A wide aperture prime will allow much more light through the lens such as the Sigma 30mm F1.4 which gives six times as much light as the brightest point of the kit lenses.

John
#33
Johnmcl7
Are you manually setting the iso or using automatic? The Olympus auto-iso system is rubbish so you're best setting the iso manually in poor light. If you're still using the kit lenses then you're going to be quite limited for taking low light shots as they're not particularly bright lenses (same with all kit lenses). A wide aperture prime will allow much more light through the lens such as the Sigma 30mm F1.4 which gives six times as much light as the brightest point of the kit lenses.

John


Night shots are well difficult with the best of cameras. The oly is jus very difficult to hold still. But when u do get shots, they are cracking. I would suggest go to the nmenu and there is an option there to limit ISO sensitivity in Auto mode. By default its 400ISO, increase it to 800 and you should be ok. Then while taking pics at night, switch to automode, and turn the flash off, Also make sur eyou have AF assist strobe off in the menu. Take pics now, and you will get very very very good pics,. ALso make sure you focus at the subject half press the shutter and then compose the whole shot. And click!!
#34
to both the posters above, thanks i will try it..

I have just tried using "night mode" , "sunset mode" and "candle mode"... candle mode gives spectactular pictures, however, it cant be used for taking photos of a city skyline, meither can the others so far.. i will mess witht he iso settings though and thank you for the advice!!!
#35
No longer available :(

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