360 RROD - need a new one! cheapest arcade 360? - HotUKDeals
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360 RROD - need a new one! cheapest arcade 360?

jackvdbuk Avatar
7y, 4m agoPosted 7 years, 4 months ago
basically i fitted the xclamp about 2 days ago, been fine for a couple of days then today i turned it on and it RROD on me again... damn!

weird thing is i can get to the menus then it RROD's!

anywya going to get a new one, whats the cheapest place for an arcade these days?
jackvdbuk Avatar
7y, 4m agoPosted 7 years, 4 months ago

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I'd try reapplying the xclamp, use a better compound.
loads of reasons why it fails,

Granted there are some that just can't be fixed but try as above, reapplying with a fresh paste

Did you get all the old paste off and buff it till you can see your face in it, if you left any of the old paste on, this would affect it, also try tightening the washers by hand then leave xbox on for 10 mins, then tighten until the washers are completely flat (don't over tighten, you'll damage the board) leave to cool for 30 mins, try again, leave on for 25 mins, leave to cool and it should have set correctly.
ok thanks ill give it another go, i used as5 is there really a better compund? :)
ok thanks ill give it another go, i used as5 is there really a better compund? :)

Prob didn't clean the last compound off enough, didnt put enough as5 on or put too much on.
I used x clamps overr a monthg ago, that xbox has been used every day since then.

Did you use the x clamps that have the steel washers (all steel) or some nylon.
1 Like #5
as5 is good, (truthfully there isn't a huge difference in conductivity between any of them, it's more about which ones last longer before breaking down) but you really do want a tiny, tiny amount. the stuff is only supposed to pill the microscopic air gaps between the heat sink and cpu / gpu.

try using naptha - liquid lighter fuel - to clean off the old compound.

tighten it as much as you can until you think you're in danger of breaking something (remember the goal is to ensure full connection over the full BGA grid between the motherboard and the chips. without reflowing there is no way to reattach that solder, so really you're making the connection through sheer mechanical force. once it's done, you might have to let it intentionally overheat to get the connection back.

after that you ought to try and add some sort of additional cooling, anything that blows some air over the cpu sink (there is a gap in the case there) or there is an external adaptor that places fans on the underside (with the xbox on it's side) this blows air into the chamber at the front of the xbox, infront of and around the cpu sink, when it is then drawn in through the 360's ducting to pass over both sinks before being expelled out the back.

you could also attempt to 12 of 7v mod the 360 fans, 12 is pretty easy cos you can get it from the dvd drive. you just have to suffer more noise.

there are other mods you can do such as drilling additional venting holes, you might as well rip out the top metal chassis - that'll give you a couple of extra cubic cm for air to move around.

the problem isn't so much the overheating as it is the thermal cycling, microsoft used cheapass PCB and it flexes when it gets too hot and then again when it cools down again. if you can shave just a couple of degrees off the temp, and especially just move effectively get that heat into the sinks and away from the chips and the pcb beneath them then there isn't such a big range between hot and cold.

I also wonder, tho haven't tested the theory, if exiting a game to dashboard and leaving it like that for a few minutes before switching it off, would help. - it seems to make sense to me, as it would provide an intermediate step where the chips weren't chucking out quite as much heat and the fans were still going. surely turning you console immediately off in the middle of a gaming session, is going to result in the temp going UP for a few minutes as there suddenly isn't any cooling anymore.

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