Advice Required re Broked Hard Drive - HotUKDeals
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Advice Required re Broked Hard Drive

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Hi there, I recently got a new PC and transferred my old IDE HD to my new PC.It wasn't showing up in the PC or the Bios so I tested it in my old PC and still no luck.I've tried a combination of cables…
Wooderson Avatar
8y, 4d agoPosted 8 years, 4 days ago
Hi there, I recently got a new PC and transferred my old IDE HD to my new PC.It wasn't showing up in the PC or the Bios so I tested it in my old PC and still no luck.I've tried a combination of cables etc and it seems as though the HD itself has broken.
Is there anyway to retrieve the data on there, I know there's specialists but they charge a fortune, so I thought i'd come to you guys as you're pretty tech savvy.

Cheers
Wooderson Avatar
8y, 4d agoPosted 8 years, 4 days ago
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#1
Check the jumper settings at the back of the HD make sure they are correct. It should be set to Master assuming your new HD is SATA. If you cant get it to read in BNios dont think there is much you can do.

Just check to see if it spins
#2
#3
Also try these from http://www.ubcd4win.com/contents.htm


Disk Investigator 1.31 Display the true drive contents by bypassing the operating system and directly reading the raw drive sectors. View and search raw directories, files, clusters, and system sectors. Verify the effectiveness of file and disk wiping programs. Undelete previously deleted files
Fab's AutoBackup 1.2 Backup and restore personal settings like emails, documents, internet browser bookmarks
File Recovery 4.0 Data recovery for damaged files and erased partitions
Free Undelete 1.0 Data recovery program for deleted files
Handy Recovery 1.0 Designed to restore files accidentally deleted from hard disks and floppy drives
Recovery Manager 1.5 Backup & Restore, Duplicate, Recover files accidentally deleted or from corrupted media, and Format Digital Flash Media
Recuva 1.10.223 File recovery program
Restoration 2.5.14 File Recovery, restore files that have been deleted from the Recycle Bin
UnChk 3 Recover CHK files
Swiss Knife 3.21 Useful tool to create, delete, and format partitions
Unstop Copier 1.9 Recovers files from disks with physical damage
#4
I dont think these options will work if Bios cant pick the hard drive up
#5
Firstly,when handling hold by the edges avoid touching the circuit board beneath or the pins where you connect the drive. If it is an IDE / PATA known as a parallel hard drive , it normally has a 40 Pin connector + a 4 pin power connector. Make sure the power connector is aligned with the bevelled edges. The 40 Pin connector has a red stripe and this indicates pin 1 of the connector. It should be connected to the drive so that the red stripe is nearest the power connector. There is also normally a 'key' in the cable that prevents the cable been inserted the wrong way up.
There are three settings for an IDE drive Master/Slave or Cable select (M/S or C/S). If the cable which connects to the motherboard is not connected to another drive then set the jumper to M or cable select. If there is another device on the cable disconnect it - so that you can test.
Switch on the computer and put your head close to the drive. If your hearing a clunk-clunk-clunk - its not good, if a slight click , then the drive spining up, it should be OK.
It is possible the drive has been disabled in the bios, you can normally enter the bios by pressing F1 on startup- or sometimes F10 (thats function key F1,F10, top row of keys), check the basic setup to see if the drive is showing as drive 0 and not as disabled.
Also, as most new computers use SATA, the older IDE connectors are sometimes disabled in the bios, and need to be enabled to use them.

Hope this helps
#6
om4r
I dont think these options will work if Bios cant pick the hard drive up


Yeah but I'd still try (some say they are for damaged drives) depends how important info is to the OP... before they start freezing it in bags and stuff I'd try all the main recovery utilities on it personally.
#7
hang on hang on....could this be cos of jumper settings or am i talking rubbish?

EDIT JUST read someone talk about this above...well done!
#8
http://erms.samsungelectronics.com/customer/common/images/namo/2007/12/05/hdd%20jumper%20block.jpg
#9
The key is to make sure it can be seen in the bios, (the list of keys to access the bios is very useful! - thanks I'll use that myself!) So summarise, a combination of either Del, F1, F2, F9, F10 should get you into the bios. If the drive is shown correctly but it doesn't boot the operating system anymore, you might have changed/deleted the boot.ini file , by adding the drive as a second hard disk - some boot loaders do this (Acronis for one), but all your files will be there.
See if you can see it in the bios, then you can go from there.

A another option is to get a USB to IDE caddy and stick the drive in there , then plug into the back of the new computer, then it should show up like a removeable usb flash drive with your files intact.
#10
oh you want the keys... sorry I deleted that cos I think OP knows how to get into BIOS!...will bring it back........

BIOS ACCESS KEYS for popular machines
#11
1, When you switch on the PC, can you hear the drive spinning? If not replace the power lead (or try in new computer), if still no noise, then its an electrical fault and its knackered but on the plus side you now have a shiny new paper weight.
2, Step two, try connecting the HD to the other IDE connector on your motherboard (or to your individual IDE controller card if the PC really is old 386-era) and set the BIOS to auto-detect. If nothing is found, ensure that 1, you have the HD jumper set to MASTER and nothing else is connected to the IDE cable or other port else try another cable else try another motherboard. This means that its either the cable or your IDE controller.
3, As suggested above, plug it in to a 3.5" IDE caddy and connect it via USB. Although if the above haven't worked then its not likely that this will.
4, Shout and swear at it repeatedly and hit it with a lump hammer until it works. This has the lowest success rate of all the options, but can give some satisfaction.
BTW, if your BIOS doesn't see it, then no other operating system or recovery utility will be able to as its the "Basic Input Output System".
#12
suchafunkymonkey

4, Shout and swear at it repeatedly and hit it with a lump hammer until it works. This has the lowest success rate of all the options, but can give some satisfaction.
BTW, if your BIOS doesn't see it, then no other operating system or recovery utility will be able to as its the "Basic Input Output System".


Well before that I might give the freeze method a go...but yeah after that smashing is always satisfying.
#13
Thanks guys I have done all the check ie I tried another IDE drive which worked perfectly so I can rule out a cable issue,jumpers also set correct etc.
The drive does seem to be spinning but just not showing up in the bios so i'm guessing it's a physical fault but i'm not sure what to try next.
#14
Have you checked in case one of the IDE pins is damaged? It's a long shot, but worth asking.
#15
suchafunkymonkey
Have you checked in case one of the IDE pins is damaged? It's a long shot, but worth asking.


I did and they all look to be in place, thanks though.
#16
Try to put some slight angular downward pressure on the Ide connector and/or power connector. If there is a dodgy pin, or dry joint its sometimes enough to get it recognised. Any sound from the disk or is it completely silent - ie. no power.
Also just try connecting with Power only, and listen if it sounds any different - it should spin up even with just the power connector.
The final last chance is to obtain an identical drive (similar date of manufacture) and change the circuit board - but your getting into long shots, as there might be slight firmware differences, as it might be a electrical failure rather than a physical head failure.
Though you could always try though hotdeals, to see if anyone has an identical drive.
Last thing, ATA133,ATA100 do required a shielded cable, rather than the older 'standard' ide cables. There is sometimes a setting in the bios to change the ATA settings too. Is the other working drive of a similar type / size and age, ie. the fact that it can see a DVD drive (which work at slower transfer rates) doesn't always mean it will recognise an ATA100 Hard disk.
#17
tightar5e
Try to put some slight angular downward pressure on the Ide connector and/or power connector. If there is a dodgy pin, or dry joint its sometimes enough to get it recognised. Any sound from the disk or is it completely silent - ie. no power.
Also just try connecting with Power only, and listen if it sounds any different - it should spin up even with just the power connector.
The final last chance is to obtain an identical drive (similar date of manufacture) and change the circuit board - but your getting into long shots, as there might be slight firmware differences, as it might be a electrical failure rather than a physical head failure.
Though you could always try though hotdeals, to see if anyone has an identical drive.
Last thing, ATA133,ATA100 do required a shielded cable, rather than the older 'standard' ide cables. There is sometimes a setting in the bios to change the ATA settings too. Is the other working drive of a similar type / size and age, ie. the fact that it can see a DVD drive (which work at slower transfer rates) doesn't always mean it will recognise an ATA100 Hard disk.


Thanks for the tips i'll give it a try tomorrow.The disk does power up, it's quite silent but I can feel it spinning and when I shut the PC down the drive makes a noise as though it is shutting down too.The other drive I tried was an HDD made a couple of years earlier and that seemed to work perfectly in both my new and older PC.My drive is a Samsund HD400LD.
#18
The only other problem might be LBA Logical Block Address , the drive you mentioned is 400GB, for drives larger than 137GB, you need to make sure the drive is set as LBA in the bios, newer bios do this automatically, but some older ones don't recognise drives over this size, and need it to be set manually.
http://www.largeharddrivesupport.windowsreinstall.com/
If you do get it working - invest in a 32GB Flash drive and Acronis True Image, to make an 'Image' of your Windows Install. What Machine/processor/motherboard (and/or) are you trying to connect to?
#19
Thanks the PC isn't that old plus it worked fine in my old one and now it doesn't which leads me to beliveit's a problem with the HDD itself.I did get a couple of quotes of the net but 500 is way too much.
#20
Hi just got another quick question, if I was to swap the board from the same model would that mean I couldn't return it?
Say for example I could find another version of my drive online would I be able to swap over the board and then put it back on to return the item?
Also how would I go about making sure the firmware matched?

Thanks
1 Like #21
I'd definitely try the USB 3.5'' IDE Caddy before resorting to changing the circuit board - the circuit board change is really the last chance saloon - if the data is important. If the data is really important, I'd be paying the specialist, but if you think you have handled the disk (causing a static shock discharge & failure) - ie. touched the board / inserted cables incorrectly rather than dropped the disk (a mechanical failure) it might be an option though some have a flexible film zif connector that can be awkward to disconnect/reconnect.
If you have the data somewhere else, even a recent backup and just want a replacement disk from samsung under warranty - just send back the disk and get a replacement.
Data is important - people pay a lot of money to get it back - sometimes its better to pay the price and move forward. But the basic things that will be tried (that I've listed) - there is disk recovery .... and disk recovery (depending on the quality of the company they can be different ends of the spectrum)
Note:Don't open the disk, so you can see the heads. I don't recommend hitting it either. Can't really help any further.
#22
Do you really think it's worth trying a caddy, surely there's no reason it should work in one of those if it doesn't work inside the PC.
I really just want to recover some data as opposed to having the hd work again, the I don't value it enough to spend hundreds on but I figured I might aswell try whatever I can on my own.
Anyway thanks for all your help and advice.

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