DIY question - can you tile over chipboard floorboards? - HotUKDeals
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DIY question - can you tile over chipboard floorboards?

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Hope someone can help. My husband wants to replace the lino and tile our bathroom. The floor consists of those chipboard floorboards, on top of wooden joists (which are approx. 400 mm apart). It's onl…
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8y, 2m agoPosted 8 years, 2 months ago
Hope someone can help. My husband wants to replace the lino and tile our bathroom. The floor consists of those chipboard floorboards, on top of wooden joists (which are approx. 400 mm apart). It's only a small bathroom (approx. 2 x 2 meters). Can he just chuck down grout and tile? Or will that not work because the wood would move/bounce and cause tiles to shift around or crack?
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8y, 2m agoPosted 8 years, 2 months ago
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#1
You should fit plywood over the floor first. Make sure its firmly screwed down at 30cm spacing.
#2
make sure the plywood is 6mm ply that you put down first! 4m ply is too thin
#3
Thanks guys. As the chipboard is rotten in parts anyway, my husband was thinking of replacing it. So sounds like he'd be better off replacing with 18mm or so plywood rather than chipboard and then ply on top.
#4
BEANZ-ON-TOAST
Thanks guys. As the chipboard is rotten in parts anyway, my husband was thinking of replacing it. So sounds like he'd be better off replacing with 18mm or so plywood rather than chipboard and then ply on top.


Yea thats what I did!! You might as well as you have ripped it apart so might as well make it secure while its like that!! :thumbsup:
#5
You'll need to use a decent adhesive too when tiling over wood, something like Bal Fastflex which will probably cost more than the tiles themself.
#6
Broxy
You'll need to use a decent adhesive too when tiling over wood, something like Bal Fastflex which will probably cost more than the tiles themself.


Just googled the price of that stuff :w00t: but if I need it then so be it. No point in doing a job on the cheap.
1 Like #7
BEANZ-ON-TOAST
Just googled the price of that stuff :w00t: but if I need it then so be it. No point in doing a job on the cheap.



Thats what I thought when I used cheap stuff, after a month or so the tiles started coming up and was back at square one:whistling:. Used fastflex and they are still down to this day a year later.
#8
Broxy
Thats what I thought when I used cheap stuff, after a month or so the tiles started coming up and was back at square one:whistling:. Used fastflex and they are still down to this day a year later.


thanks as i have chipboard too so i would need to use fastflex
#9
Angelstar
thanks as i have chipboard too so i would need to use fastflex


Do what someone at the top of the thread has said and put plyboard down first.;-)
#10
I personally wouldn't. You will nearly always get movement (even if using 3/4 ply). This causes the grout to come away and the tiles to crack. My father has had this same problem. I have concrete floors though, and have no problems.
#11
Foxy102
I personally wouldn't. You will nearly always get movement (even if using 3/4 ply). This causes the grout to come away and the tiles to crack. My father has had this same problem. I have concrete floors though, and have no problems.



Not if you use the correct adhesive and grout they wont.
#12
you will have to use waterproof adhesive and grout as it will ,with out doubt ,go black and mouldy
#13
Right, bought 18mm plywood, expensive waterproof, flexible adhesive and grout (especially for tiling over wooden floors). So fingers crossed it will work! The tiles look fab, so I hope it will. I don't want lino, I WANT TILES! Now here's hoping my hubby won't mess things up. 'Thanks again guys.
#14
I dont know if you have started yet, but screw the the ply down at 150mm centers NOT 300mm as some one suggested earlier (be careful to note where your pipes are located underneath). NEVER use less than 15mm ply, preferably 18mm. if you use 6mm you will have so many problems in the future and will end up having to replace the whole floor! Once the board is down, use a proper bonding agent on top, DO NOT USE PVA! Set out the floor first by measuring all four walls and marking the center of each then draw two lines from each each opposite walls to give you a cross and start from the centre. Finally the BAL adhesive is spot on, but B&Q have a very good flexible adhesive that they have just started stocking called Mapei (also Mapei grout) for about £25 a bag. Mapei is superb and what i use regularly and b&q are much cheaper than anywhere else you can get it. Also make sure that you use flexible grout to no more than 6mm gaps but i think 4mm is the nicest. Good luck! Any probs give me a shout.:thumbsup:
edit: Just noticed that you said you have flexi adhesive AND grout, is this an all in one ready mix? If so, throw it in the bin! It is absolute *****! Always use bagged adhesive for floors and a Separate grout.
#15
On a related note can anyone tell me (or where I can find the info online) as to how much Partical Board / Chipboard such as Contiboard weighs compared to other types of man made wood products such as plywood or SterlingOSB boards?

I could only find on google the weights for natural woods

http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_wood.htm

I'm interested in it's properties for making a wider then average cabinet door for a wardrobe (i.e. to have one single 24 inch (or even 30 inch) wide door rather then two 18 inch doors. As well as the warping characteristics of each type of product.

Also advice on where to buy these products other then B&Q, Wickes, Homebase, etc in North West London Area (Watford, Ruislips, Pinner, etc) - Looking to get it in standard white. As well as places that might deliver or at least cut the boards to fit in a smaller car.

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