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Dodgy car smell!

sabz786 Avatar
5y, 10m agoPosted 5 years, 10 months ago
I have a 2000 X Reg 0.8L Daewoo Matiz and I use it for daily commuting to Birmingham from Coventry. 64,000 miles.

Over the last week, I have on two occasions had a clicking noise (which seems to be coming from the front right hand side), and then a bad smell which if you smell from the outside is from the near the front driver wheel. The smell on the first time also came into the car. Smells a bit like a abestos!

Have been to 2x garages and responses were as follows;
1. Seems to be the front discs are warped by the calipers, would need to replace discs and brakes and then also check calipers
2. Front brakes fine, back wheel bearings need replacing, but once we remove we need to replace as alot of grease coming out from them, quoted £50 per back wheel and possibly more if drums needs replacing.



Have no idea what to do, don't want my car to do blow up on me, but also getting different diagnoses from garages.


Any ideas guys?
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sabz786 Avatar
5y, 10m agoPosted 5 years, 10 months ago
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#1
If asbestos type smell then its brakes related for sure
#2
normally if the wheel bearing is going it makes a dronning,whooing noise around a bend etc.

more than likely the brakes, disks getting hot next time your out in the motor listen when you round a bend try left and right hand turns. also when you park up feel the brake disk. put your hand round the back of the front wheel and its the shinny bit but be careful they mught be red hot if they are warped/sticking.
2 Likes #3
its a badger in the head gasket-very common problem
#4
Yeah definatly brakes , whichever said wheel bearings needs shooting if your bearings were shot you would hear a loud grinding/ whirring noise from arond that area .
#5
barky
its a badger in the head gasket-very common problem


I'd have said its down to the nut in the drivers seat
#6
It has happend on the motorway usually when my car heats up, after around 10-15 miles. Last time I could only smell it if poked my head right next to the drivers wheel.


Edited By: sabz786 on Jan 25, 2011 19:57
#7
barky
its a badger in the head gasket-very common problem
yeah a honey badger ....:D
#8
Gonna place my bet on one of the discs warped..

Get both of um replaced along with pads

Should sort it out, if not then start eliminating problems such as worn bearing, but as said above if it was worn you would be hearing a grinding noise..
#9
If the discs were warped, surely the OP would feel this under breaking at higher speeds?

Plus my brakes have never had a smell coming from them, its nothing to do with the clutch is it?
#10
Ok,
I just remember, the last time it happend (last night on the m'way), i noticed the car did not want to accelerate but was not really decelerating either, I got quite scared and slowed during about to move onto hard shoulder of the m6, but then it was ok, don't know if this was my imagination and was just the 0.8l engine struggling with the full tank of petrol -this was same time as the smell/clicky nose
aircanman
If the discs were warped, surely the OP would feel this under breaking at higher speeds?

Plus my brakes have never had a smell coming from them, its nothing to do with the clutch is it?
#11
If the disks are warped you would probably feel it through the brake pedal (pulsing on ya foot) but I dunno how warped they would have to be.

It could be the caliper isn't releasing fully and the smell is from rubbing brake pads. (BTW brake pads don't have asbestos in them now that I am aware of).

I had a clicking under braking with some new disks I fitted on my car and it turned out to be excess metal left on the disk. Once that was rubbed down by the garage (for free) it stopped. Wouldn't think it was that though. Does the noise increase in speed with road speed or constant?

If it's constant it's not likely to be a wheel or brake. They it could be an engine issue but I dunno.
#12
The noise seems to increase with acceleration, it did on first occasion.

Do you guys reckon its time to get rid/px? Its not worth much and don't know if its worth paying to have all the quoted work done
CyDoNiA
If the disks are warped you would probably feel it through the brake pedal (pulsing on ya foot) but I dunno how warped they would have to be.

It could be the caliper isn't releasing fully and the smell is from rubbing brake pads. (BTW brake pads don't have asbestos in them now that I am aware of).

I had a clicking under braking with some new disks I fitted on my car and it turned out to be excess metal left on the disk. Once that was rubbed down by the garage (for free) it stopped. Wouldn't think it was that though. Does the noise increase in speed with road speed or constant?

If it's constant it's not likely to be a wheel or brake. They it could be an engine issue but I dunno.
#13
Hard to say. These noises can be a nightmare to figure out. The fact it makes a bad smell is a bit worrying.

I'm no expert so can't offer more than a few guesses as to what it could be. If you are confident taking the wheel off you could inspect the brakes and disks for any obvious marks where it's been heavily rubbing.

Slim chance it maybe could be a driveshaft. Maybe the rubber gator around the flexi-joint has split or not sealed well and dirt/dust has gotten in and causing an issue but sounds more like a brake issue.

Thinking about it you could jack the front up and take the car out of gear and see how freely the wheel spins. If you spin it it should spin pretty freely although don't worry if it only does a few turns and slows. Also grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and wobble it top to bottom. If it moves at all it could be a bearing but doubt it.

Can't really suggest much more. Hopefully ya get it sorted.
#14
Thanks all for the advice.
CyDoNiA
Hard to say. These noises can be a nightmare to figure out. The fact it makes a bad smell is a bit worrying.

I'm no expert so can't offer more than a few guesses as to what it could be. If you are confident taking the wheel off you could inspect the brakes and disks for any obvious marks where it's been heavily rubbing.

Slim chance it maybe could be a driveshaft. Maybe the rubber gator around the flexi-joint has split or not sealed well and dirt/dust has gotten in and causing an issue but sounds more like a brake issue.

Thinking about it you could jack the front up and take the car out of gear and see how freely the wheel spins. If you spin it it should spin pretty freely although don't worry if it only does a few turns and slows. Also grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and wobble it top to bottom. If it moves at all it could be a bearing but doubt it.

Can't really suggest much more. Hopefully ya get it sorted.
#15
sabz786
Ok,
I just remember, the last time it happend (last night on the m'way), i noticed the car did not want to accelerate but was not really decelerating either, I got quite scared and slowed during about to move onto hard shoulder of the m6, but then it was ok, don't know if this was my imagination and was just the 0.8l engine struggling with the full tank of petrol -this was same time as the smell/clicky nose


the vehicle not accelerating /decelerating sounds like you have a brake caliper seizing on with what you have described, I have in the past found the flexible brake hose has collapsed in on itself, which holds the brakes on. I've never had to do a front wheel bearing & thinking about it, never done a rear. I've just repaired my mates Daewoo Matiz, 2 new headlights, 2 drive-shaft joints & gaiters & a rear silencer, this was a 1999 model, the parts came to approx £350, I'm a mechanic so it was mates rates.
#16
oh ok, thanks for the advice.
richp
sabz786
Ok,
I just remember, the last time it happend (last night on the m'way), i noticed the car did not want to accelerate but was not really decelerating either, I got quite scared and slowed during about to move onto hard shoulder of the m6, but then it was ok, don't know if this was my imagination and was just the 0.8l engine struggling with the full tank of petrol -this was same time as the smell/clicky nose


the vehicle not accelerating /decelerating sounds like you have a brake caliper seizing on with what you have described, I have in the past found the flexible brake hose has collapsed in on itself, which holds the brakes on. I've never had to do a front wheel bearing & thinking about it, never done a rear. I've just repaired my mates Daewoo Matiz, 2 new headlights, 2 drive-shaft joints & gaiters & a rear silencer, this was a 1999 model, the parts came to approx £350, I'm a mechanic so it was mates rates.
#17
You said earlier on that the car was not accellerating and not slowing down, this sounds an awful lot like a clutch! - For a small engine, the clutch will take a lot of slipping to get the little car going so there is a chance it is on its way out, I cant remember the exact test, but I think if you put the car in 3rd, pull your foot off the clutch slowly at standstill, then if the car stalls right away its ok, and if it slips like mad then its the clutch, I may be wrong about the gear for testing though, but as a psychic, I am sure someone on here will correct me . . .
#18
aircanman
You said earlier on that the car was not accellerating and not slowing down, this sounds an awful lot like a clutch! - For a small engine, the clutch will take a lot of slipping to get the little car going so there is a chance it is on its way out, I cant remember the exact test, but I think if you put the car in 3rd, pull your foot off the clutch slowly at standstill, then if the car stalls right away its ok, and if it slips like mad then its the clutch, I may be wrong about the gear for testing though, but as a psychic, I am sure someone on here will correct me . . .


Put the car in 4th/5th gear, apply the handbrake and lift the clutch up slowly all the way, If it stalls the clutch is fine, If it carrys on running with the clutch up then the clutch if fubared
#19
Just an update guys from my journey this morning to Birmingham, the car started making the metally/clicky noise again, like a pin swirling around in a metal tin box, and the while going on a hill, the car stopped accellerating again, but was starting to slow down very slowly, it stopped after around a minute.

The clicky sound was on and off through the journey, but did stop. After I parked up, the smell from outside the car was awful.
#20
sabz786
Just an update guys from my journey this morning to Birmingham, the car started making the metally/clicky noise again, like a pin swirling around in a metal tin box, and the while going on a hill, the car stopped accellerating again, but was starting to slow down very slowly, it stopped after around a minute.

The clicky sound was on and off through the journey, but did stop. After I parked up, the smell from outside the car was awful.


hmmm I'm wondering if the catalytic converter is breaking up, that makes that sort of noise as it rattles about & it can block the exhaust gasses, which would cause the car to not accelerate fully & eventually it would start to peter out until it wont drive anymore, Bit hard to diagnose without a test drive.....keep us informed though, be interesting to see what the diagnosis is .
#21
richp
sabz786
Just an update guys from my journey this morning to Birmingham, the car started making the metally/clicky noise again, like a pin swirling around in a metal tin box, and the while going on a hill, the car stopped accellerating again, but was starting to slow down very slowly, it stopped after around a minute.

The clicky sound was on and off through the journey, but did stop. After I parked up, the smell from outside the car was awful.


hmmm I'm wondering if the catalytic converter is breaking up, that makes that sort of noise as it rattles about & it can block the exhaust gasses, which would cause the car to not accelerate fully & eventually it would start to peter out until it wont drive anymore, Bit hard to diagnose without a test drive.....keep us informed though, be interesting to see what the diagnosis is .


Highly doubt it would be related to the cat.. My wager is that one of the discs is warped, Or some other component of the braking system is fudged and needs replacing.. If not this then a problem with the clutch.. Take it to a garage and get them to have a quick look at it
#22
Thanks for the replies again guys, same thing again today on the way to Birmingham, on the hilly part of the M6 near Corley services.

Bit of a hard choice to make now as to whether pay 200+ for repair and further repairs costs upon diagnosis, or just PX for another car from AT/Ebay.
#23
Get it into kwik fit or whatever and get a free diagnosis FFS the more you drive it like this the worse the damage is going to get, PX for another on AT/Ebay? at this rate there will be nothing left to sell.
#24
until you get it diagnosed, you will never know, you might end up getting rid of it for the sake of a "few quid" to fix it.
#25
When it's clicking, try putting your foot on the clutch and see if the noise stops. You could try the same with the brakes.

If the car runs well otherwise and you would only be spending another few hundred on a p/x deal you'd be better off fixing it imo.
#26
Let's have an update on this situation, it would be interesting to know what the actual problem was/is?
#27
It's going into Kwik Fit on Tuesday, I mentioned to them about the problem with accelerating and they said its most likely a caliper (over the phone), so I would need to bring in on a weekday to have it diagnosed in case they need parts as when they dismantle the wheel it may mean the brakes can;t be put back together :|
aircanman
Let's have an update on this situation, it would be interesting to know what the actual problem was/is?
#28
sabz786
It's going into Kwik Fit on Tuesday, I mentioned to them about the problem with accelerating and they said its most likely a caliper (over the phone), so I would need to bring in on a weekday to have it diagnosed in case they need parts as when they dismantle the wheel it may mean the brakes can;t be put back together :|
aircanman
Let's have an update on this situation, it would be interesting to know what the actual problem was/is?


Jesus.. kwik fit.. Bend over!
#29
Only problem being, apparently if they remove the front breaks they will have to replace them?? Not sure where that leaves as I only want a diagnosis


dean3988
sabz786
It's going into Kwik Fit on Tuesday, I mentioned to them about the problem with accelerating and they said its most likely a caliper (over the phone), so I would need to bring in on a weekday to have it diagnosed in case they need parts as when they dismantle the wheel it may mean the brakes can;t be put back together :|
aircanman
Let's have an update on this situation, it would be interesting to know what the actual problem was/is?


Jesus.. kwik fit.. Bend over!
#30
Currently with Kwik-fit, hoping they can just replace the one faulty caliper on drivers front side? How much should I be paying
#31
sabz786
Currently with Kwik-fit, hoping they can just replace the one faulty caliper on drivers front side? How much should I be paying


You should be asking that before they touch the car......
#32
Diagnosis from KF:

New drivers side caliper required as well front disc pads = £225

Said I would think over it and come back to them.

£350 for both calipers
#33
sabz786
Diagnosis from KF:

New drivers side caliper required as well front disc pads = £225

Said I would think over it and come back to them.

£350 for both calipers


Wow.. Told you to bend over! Kwit fit overcharge massively imo

Could get 2 calipers from scrapyard, New pads and new discs for about £50-£60.. Find someone local to fit for about £40..

It cost me £40 for a 260mm Zetec-s brake set up for my fiesta, Then another £40 for drilled and groved discs, Fitted them myself in under an hour!
#34
And just a quick look on ECP, One new caliper is £106. And with trade discount (Which varies from product to product) Could be anything from £60-£80.. new discs and pads for both sides: £40

do the math.. All the mechanical work on my car is done by myself, Anything i cant do (Which is pretty much changing the timing belt), but take it to a few independent mechanics in your area see what prices they come up with
#35
My concern is I have read a special tool is required to remove the front brakes and local garages may not have this?

Where is best to buy the parts? ebay?

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