Kitchen worktop wooden - DIY restore sand, oil etc...

Posted 30th Jan 2023
Hello everyone, so i need some advice.

My wooden kitchen worktop was due a restoration so i:
- scrapped all the old products off (didnt want to waste sand paper)
- sanded at 80/100/120
- added Ronseal worktop oil (wickes.co.uk/Ron…264)

4078343_1.jpg- applied 3 coats and waited desired time between and full dry time

Waited a week and it just wasn't protected enough, i noticed water would sit in a ball but was leaving a mark.





So i purchased a heavy duty (their words) worktop product in dead flat (polyvine.com/ind…ish)

4078343_1.jpg- did not sand again, applied on top of above Ronseal oil
- applied 3 coats and waited desired time between and full dry time

Again same issue, water left on worktop would leave a white mark if not cleaned asap.




I have shown two photos, first taken when water left for 2 hours and cleaned away.
4078343_1.jpg


And second in the morning, faded but still there.
4078343_1.jpg
Anyone have any advice on what is going on?
Is either product doing anything or zero?
Not protected?

Or should i use something different?

Thanks in advance.
Greg
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  1. wayners's avatar
    wayners
    Should not leave water on tbh.
    Not the most durable surface.
    Any water should be dried off or it will mark.

    I lash on the oil with a brush every hour. Buff off when it's filled (edited)
    joyf4536's avatar
    joyf4536
    So you set your alarm every hour during the night or do you already have a small child?
  2. adic's avatar
    adic
    When my worktops were installed I was supplied with a tin of Rustins Danish Oil which was great. When It ran out, I bought the Ronseal stuff, and it is a load of rubbish. Your post has reminded me to throw out the Ronseal and get a tin of Rustins again.
  3. MicroManaged's avatar
    MicroManaged
    Your varnish hasn't done anything as you've applied it over the oil.

    It needs sanding back and properly degreasing with white spirit or IPA.

    This link for the varnish even states this:
    Preparation
    All surfaces must be clean and free from dust, dirt, oil and contamination. Remove oils/resins from oily hardwoods and resinous softwoods. Sand to a smooth finish and remove all dust.
  4. gregster007147's avatar
    gregster007147 Author
    Hi all, thanks for replies. I've read other reviews and sites and thought I went for the correct oil and now Varnish.

    Noted it states remove all previous but I've read reviews of others applying over oil and still works - hence I didn't sand down and start again.

    Maybe a case of cutting corners... Only works in certain circumstances which wasn't mine.

    If Ronseal did what it said on the tin I wouldn't have gone for a second product.

    Nevertheless if either product worked then water marks should not have appeared... Something failed here. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️
  5. ifixit's avatar
    ifixit
    I used danish oil as it's more wear resistance imo. Danish oil has been used on wooden worktops for year now I see these other worktop oils tried some but was more happier with danish oil and went back to it and would not look back.
    I use a sponge to apply it to get a think coating rather then a brush as I get no brush strokes. Then I buff the final coat. Leave each coat until its almost dry before applying the next coat. Normally 1 coat is fine every 6 months if you apply it regularly.
    If you have gone back to wood then it took to 5 coats when I first applied the oil. The first 3 coats I had the same issue as you mentioned as water was sitting on the oil but still seeping through.
    Try applying another couple of coats. As you applied a few coats now the worktop should have absorbed considerable amount of oil so hopefully the next coat or two should stop any absorption.
    gregster007147's avatar
    gregster007147 Author
    That's interesting you say you saw exactly this until extra coats added.

    With the ronseal and the polyvine I've added so many coats, granted everyone wants a fresh surface to start but I read applying on top worked fine so hence didn't sand again.

    I don't think I can add a third product, Danish oil, straight on and keep going. or can I?

    Does applying a "product" on top make it useless and wasted? :/ 🤷🏻‍♂️ (edited)
  6. Wammer's avatar
    Wammer
    A friend uses an oil from Ikea she 's happy with. I think is a Danish top oil
  7. INDUSTRYHATER's avatar
    INDUSTRYHATER
    I’m a kitchen fitter and whenever I do solid wood worktops I use Osmo oil. Without doubt the best IMO.
    gregster007147's avatar
    gregster007147 Author
    OK thanks.... Any in particular?
    I've also heard of wax oil or just plain oil and slap it on?

    Cheers
  8. gregster007147's avatar
    gregster007147 Author
    Hello all Kitchen worktop enthusiast!


    FYI - "Osmo Top Oil" was the best, if only i asked here first before purchasing.
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