4L Gulf Tec Plus 10w-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil £8.99 @ Home Bargains
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4L Gulf Tec Plus 10w-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil £8.99 @ Home Bargains

50
Found 12th Feb 2010
Gulf Tec Plus 10w-40 is a high performance semi-synthetic car motor oil designed to provide optimum performance in high-output, multi valve, turbocharged or supercharged petrol and diesel engines. The advanced additive technology incorporated in this oil enables it to exceed the stringent performance requirements of leading passenger car manufacturers and global industry standards.

Gulf Tec Plus 10w-40 is designed to exceed the requirements of ACEA A3/B4 specification and is suitable for many Peugeot, Citroen and Nissan vehicles.
Gulf Tec Plus 10w40 - Manufacturer Approvals

* ACEA A3 / ACEA B4
* API SL / CF
* Mercedes MB 229.1
* VW 505 00

With the prices oil is getting to these days this is a great price! Is £17.28 at Opie oils.

49 Comments

is this any good ?:thumbsup:

Original Poster

Opie oils sell it, who claim to be oil specialists on various motoring forums, so I take that as some form of endorsement.

Beware as this only a 4 litre container, buying the odd 1 litre for cars requiring more,it wont seem such a bargain, as a 1 litre can cost half as much as a full container. Suggest you try your local motor factors who will have a full 5 litre size in stock with better prices.

Also Most modern cars are now using a 5w30 grade. (not voted, fairish price)

Original Poster

Buy 2x 4 litre cans then :-D I'm lucky my engine only needs 4 litres so I can just empty one whole bottle of this

Until recently, I used to design crankcase oils for a living (Castrol GTX, Shell Helix Super, Total Quartz etc).

Gulf (the well knownUS multi-national oil company) died a death decades ago. However the Gulf brand is now owned by an Indian company called Hinduja. They used to blend a lot of their oils in the Middle-East. This looks like one of theirs.

Even for a bog standard SL/CF 10W-40, £8.99 is a very good price for a 4L can of oil. If this truly meets A3/B4 & MB 229.1 then it's even better value as such and oil would need to contain more expensive additive and more synthetic base stock to meet these needs. They question is does it? There's a lot of oils out there where what's written on the side of the can doesn't really bear scutiny. Sadly there's no way the average bloke in the street can tell unless you run a lot of tests.

Unless you drive like a lunatic, I'd say this was ok to put in your car. Just change it at 9,000 miles or less if you are feeling rich. Modern engines are very tolerant of oil quality so nothing untoward is likely to happen to your engine.

Joe90_guy;7825724

Until recently, I used to design crankcase oils for a living (Castrol … Until recently, I used to design crankcase oils for a living (Castrol GTX, Shell Helix Super, Total Quartz etc).Gulf (the well knownUS multi-national oil company) died a death decades ago. However the Gulf brand is now owned by an Indian company called Hinduja. They used to blend a lot of their oils in the Middle-East. This looks like one of theirs.Even for a bog standard SL/CF 10W-40, £8.99 is a very good price for a 4L can of oil. If this truly meets A3/B4 & MB 229.1 then it's even better value as such and oil would need to contain more expensive additive and more synthetic base stock to meet these needs. They question is does it? There's a lot of oils out there where what's written on the side of the can doesn't really bear scutiny. Sadly there's no way the average bloke in the street can tell unless you run a lot of tests.Unless you drive like a lunatic, I'd say this was ok to put in your car. Just change it at 9,000 miles or less if you are feeling rich. Modern engines are very tolerant of oil quality so nothing untoward is likely to happen to your engine.



Thanks Joe , im undertaking my first oil-change on a car tommorow so your advise is useful to me .

bargain

cheap oil changed more often is the way to go

Just dont put it into any VW PD engine, it's not up to the spec.

cheers, doing the missu`s car next week, this will be ok for a 1.7tdi corsa?


chars!

thecheekymonkey;7827482

cheers, doing the missu`s car next week, this will be ok for a 1.7tdi … cheers, doing the missu`s car next week, this will be ok for a 1.7tdi corsa?chars!



Put your car registration into Castrol web site, it will tell what spec it should be, I suspect depending on the age of car - it will 5w30

castrol.com/cas…205

Extra info on 5w30 oil there are about 8 different versions now for different types of cars
gunk.eu.com/ful…tml

Banned

Hancock;7827514

Put your car registration into Castrol web site, it will tell what spec … Put your car registration into Castrol web site, it will tell what spec it should be, I suspect depending on the age of car - it will 5w30http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolhomepage.do?categoryId=3205Extra info on 5w30 oil there are about 8 different versions now for different types of carshttp://www.gunk.eu.com/fullysynwin.html



or use the one at ]Gulf Oils

A couple of additional comments...

In theory you need a higher grade of oil for VW Pumpe Duse engines but this oil claims to meet both ACEA B4 & MB 229.1. For these specs, the oil needs to pass the severe VW Tdi engine test which is based on a PD engine. I'd say it's ok to use with the 'change regularly' caveat. If you have an Audi TT, use the proper VW oil.

Yes this would be ok for a Corsa Tdi.

Isn't it strange that oil companies websites direct you towards buying their most expensive, full synthetic oils???? Personally I'm not a fan of low viscosity full synthetics. It's impossible to justify their extra cost in terms of better fuel economy and unless you are planning to drive to Scandinavia, you don't really need the low temperature properties of these oils. If you want a thin oil, look for a semi-synthetic 10W-30 as these are more cost-effective.

To quote Swiss Toni, getting the best out of your lubricating oil is like making love to beautiful woman - start her up gently, wait till she's properly warmed up before you start pressing down hard and avoid going to fast otherwise your piston will incur severe wear!

Hope this helps

Hancock;7827514

Put your car registration into Castrol web site, it will tell what spec … Put your car registration into Castrol web site, it will tell what spec it should be, I suspect depending on the age of car - it will 5w30http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolhomepage.do?categoryId=3205Extra info on 5w30 oil there are about 8 different versions now for different types of carshttp://www.gunk.eu.com/fullysynwin.html



i tried 5w30 fully synth in my car once, and it burned through it.

if your car has plotted a fair number of miles, a thicker oil is far better imo.

as others have said, the quality of oil is less important that keeping it fresh and fully topped up.

i am on my 2nd turbo charged fiat coupe, 1st one was @107k and on the original turbo 3 years ago before i had an argument with a renault megan (and lost) - it is still going however i believe now on the same engine and my new one is at 90k and still going strong on bog standard 10w40. if there is a homebargains near me i will get some.... HOT

One of the problems with 5W-30's is is that the cheaper ones do tend to be quite volatile. The very light part of the oil can evaporate into the crankcase blow-by gas which gets routed back to your intake manifold and burnt along with your air/fuel mix. If you are worried about the amount of oil your car is using, go for a 15W-40 oil which has a much lower volatility. Your fuel economy will take a hit (especially in the winter) but the sump won't need topping up so often.

If you drive a high mileage banger which suffers from very excessive oil loss, then this usually means your bore / piston ring gap is high due to acculumated wear. Too much gas is getting into your crankcase and this in term worsens oil burning. If you think you have this problem, try a thick 20W-50 to help shrink the gap.

I know financially theres a saving, but with the effort/mess/risk(?) involved, for £35 would it be better to just get a basic service done at mrclutch, which includes oil and filter change?

my subaru impreza 2.0 sport has 174,000 miles on it , i am going to try this , i normally use magnatec (semi) , hope its ok :thumbsup: my engine only holds 4 litres , but bought 2 lol

Original Poster

BorisTheSpider;7828950

I know financially theres a saving, but with the effort/mess/risk(?) … I know financially theres a saving, but with the effort/mess/risk(?) involved, for £35 would it be better to just get a basic service done at mrclutch, which includes oil and filter change?



There's hardly any effort. Sump washer £1 at most, oil filter £5. Go for a bit of a drive to get the oil warmed up so it flows out easier. Undo sump plug with a oil drain bowl underneath to catch. Wear some kind of glove and do not drop the sump plug otherwise you'll have to retrieve it from some awful looking black stuff. Let it all flow out, remove oil filter, put in new oil filter, screw in sump plug with new washer, fill up to correct level, pour old oil into oil can vacated by new oil and take it to your local tip with the oil filter. Takes under an hour and is easy as anything.

Joe90_guy;7828298

A couple of additional comments...In theory you need a higher grade of … A couple of additional comments...In theory you need a higher grade of oil for VW Pumpe Duse engines but this oil claims to meet both ACEA B4 & MB 229.1. For these specs, the oil needs to pass the severe VW Tdi engine test which is based on a PD engine. I'd say it's ok to use with the 'change regularly' caveat. If you have an Audi TT, use the proper VW oil.To quote Swiss Toni, getting the best out of your lubricating oil is like making love to beautiful woman - start her up gently, wait till she's properly warmed up before you start pressing down hard and avoid going to fast otherwise your piston will incur severe wear!Hope this helps



Personally I wouldn't use anything except the 100% correct spec.VW oil in a PD,and even then it depends on whether the car is on long life servicing or not, mind you even some dealers don't seem 100% clear on this. Other than that agree 100%.

My local Vauxhall dealers sells 20 litre tubs of 10W/40 ACEA A3 spec. semi-synth for 50 odd quid, not as good as this deal but cheap for Vauxhall oil ( I appreciate it's not particularly special). I wouldn't touch Magnatec with a bargepole, it's not even a true semi-synth oil, the one time I did put it in a car the oil strainer blocked 3 days later. Maybe co-incidence but not worth trying again.

anewman;7829038

There's hardly any effort. Sump washer £1 at most, oil filter £5. Go for a … There's hardly any effort. Sump washer £1 at most, oil filter £5. Go for a bit of a drive to get the oil warmed up so it flows out easier. Undo sump plug with a oil drain bowl underneath to catch. Wear some kind of glove and do not drop the sump plug otherwise you'll have to retrieve it from some awful looking black stuff. Let it all flow out, remove oil filter, put in new oil filter, screw in sump plug with new washer, fill up to correct level, pour old oil into oil can vacated by new oil and take it to your local tip with the oil filter. Takes under an hour and is easy as anything.



Depends on the location of the oil filter, and how much plastic undershield you have to take off to get to it. Easy as pie on my old 2litre Omegas - oil filter on the front of the engine, loads of space; but a nightmare on the equivalent V6, filter right at the back of the block.

Personally I use a 40 quid oil sucker down the dipstick hole these days rather than faffing about underneath the car trying not to get hot oil all over my hands or the drive, and avoiding stripping the drain plug threads -many sumps are aluminium these days and it's easy to strip the threads.

Some great info in this thread - big thanks for all the contributions.

I can absolutely & categorically confirm that both GTX & Magnatec 10W-40's are semi-synthetic. I think the blocked strain thing was unlucky. Maybe a bit of sludge got disturbed when the oil was changed.

I'm assuming that the Subaru Impreza has a gasoline engine so the API SL classification will give you all the protection you need. If I were you, I'd put GTX in it as this is a bit cheaper than Magnatec. With 170k on the clock, any engine wear that's going to happen has already happened.

It always amazes me how loyal German car owners are to what is offically recommend by their dealers. All I can say is if it makes you happy, just keep on doing what you're doing but from a technical viewpoint, it make little sense.

I'm assuming that the Subaru Impreza has a gasoline engine so the API SL classification will give you all the protection you need. If I were you, I'd put GTX in it as this is a bit cheaper than Magnatec. With 170k on the clock, any engine wear that's going to happen has already happened.

cheers mate bought 2 of these , 1 for topping it up :thumbsup:

Joe90_guy;7829593

I can absolutely & categorically confirm that both GTX & Magnatec … I can absolutely & categorically confirm that both GTX & Magnatec 10W-40's are semi-synthetic. I think the blocked strain thing was unlucky. Maybe a bit of sludge got disturbed when the oil was changed.I'm assuming that the Subaru Impreza has a gasoline engine so the API SL classification will give you all the protection you need. If I were you, I'd put GTX in it as this is a bit cheaper than Magnatec. With 170k on the clock, any engine wear that's going to happen has already happened. It always amazes me how loyal German car owners are to what is offically recommend by their dealers. All I can say is if it makes you happy, just keep on doing what you're doing but from a technical viewpoint, it make little sense.



from a chemistry point of view Magnatec is not semi-sythetic, they can only call it that because they defetaed Mobil's legal attempt to stop then calling it that, so I'll stand by my statement. It is legally but not chemically semi-sythnetic.

Gambling with oil specification on a PD engine is a clear case of 'penny wise, pound foolish'. I don't own one, I never have done BTW.

Good deal..

So unless an oil contains some PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) or Ester, it can't be a synthetic??

This may have been the case 15 years ago but it's laughably untrue today. With the exception of Mobil 1, almost all of today's 5W-30 'full synthetic' oils are based on Hydrocracked base stocks. These give virtually all of the benefits of PAO at a fraction of the cost. Also they have none of the debits that you can get with PAO such as seal shrinkage & uncontrollable cam wear. PAO's live on in 0W-30 oils, where they are needed for ultra-low temperature viscosity needs, but the more sensible OEMs have long since abandoned 0W-30 as a factory fill oil (mainly because of it's unjustifiably high cost).

Any 10W-40 that you buy today (like the Gulf Tec oil) will almost certainly contain some Hydrocracked stock and therefore does 'qualify' for being called semi-synthetic. If the Gulf Tec oil contained PAO, it would not be £8.99 a can and find itself on HotUKDeals.com!

Hope that clears things up.

my b&m didn't have any :-(

phatbhoy;7831014

my b&m didn't have any :-(


B&M???? It's HOME BARGAINS!


p.s my local HB's had some & to be honest having Googled the oil I think i'll pick mesen another 4ltrs up

spamcan61;7829127

Personally I use a 40 quid oil sucker down the dipstick hole these days



oooh - didnt know this was an option - sounds much easier!!! Will look into it..........don't suppose theres a specific pump youd recommend?

1240 - Gulf TEC Plus 10W-40 Motor Oil
Product Description:

Gulf TEC Plus 10W-40 Motor Oil is a high performance semi-synthetic passenger car motor oil designed to provide optimum performance in high-output, multi valve, turbocharged & supercharged gasoline and diesel engines of passenger cars, vans, SUVs and light trucks. The advanced additive technology incorporated in this motor oil enables it to exceed the stringent performance requirements of leading passenger car manufacturers? and global industry standards. Gulf TEC Plus 10W-40 Motor Oil is designed to exceed the requirements of ACEA A3/B4 specification.

Features/Benefits:

Gulf TEC Plus 10W-40 has superior thermo-oxidative stability that minimizes deposits & sludge build-up and reduces motor oil thickening, thereby facilitating extended oil life and active cleaning agents provides engine cleanliness. Excellent antiwear technology minimizes engine wear and thereby reduces maintenance costs and superior dispersants provides excellent control over soot induced oil thickening and good low temperature fluidity assists in easy cold starts.

Recommended Applications :

Gulf TEC Plus 10W-40 is recommended for modern high performance, multi valve, turbocharged & supercharged engines of passenger cars, vans, SUVs & light trucks for arduous conditions such as city stopand- go, high-speed and/or high load.

BorisTheSpider;7828950

I know financially theres a saving, but with the effort/mess/risk(?) … I know financially theres a saving, but with the effort/mess/risk(?) involved, for £35 would it be better to just get a basic service done at mrclutch, which includes oil and filter change?



I do my own service, but after much deliberation, decided to let Kwik Fit do the oil, oir filter and sump ring change for £29. Let them do it on the ramp, especially with a bottom engine protection cover on.

Joe90_guy;7828899

One of the problems with 5W-30's is is that the cheaper ones do tend to … One of the problems with 5W-30's is is that the cheaper ones do tend to be quite volatile. The very light part of the oil can evaporate into the crankcase blow-by gas which gets routed back to your intake manifold and burnt along with your air/fuel mix. If you are worried about the amount of oil your car is using, go for a 15W-40 oil which has a much lower volatility. Your fuel economy will take a hit (especially in the winter) but the sump won't need topping up so often.If you drive a high mileage banger which suffers from very excessive oil loss, then this usually means your bore / piston ring gap is high due to acculumated wear. Too much gas is getting into your crankcase and this in term worsens oil burning. If you think you have this problem, try a thick 20W-50 to help shrink the gap.



20W50 cooking oil special as we call it in the trade! ;-)

peodude;7831262

I do my own service, but after much deliberation, decided to let Kwik Fit … I do my own service, but after much deliberation, decided to let Kwik Fit do the oil, oir filter and sump ring change for £29. Let them do it on the ramp, especially with a bottom engine protection cover on.



I believe Kwikfit don't drain the oil, they suck it up throught the dip stick.

Hancock;7831285

I believe Kwikfit don't drain the oil, they suck it up throught the dip … I believe Kwikfit don't drain the oil, they suck it up throught the dip stick.



Not at my local they don't. I sat and watched them struggle with the rusted bolts holding the undertray on.

BorisTheSpider;7831151

oooh - didnt know this was an option - sounds much easier!!! Will look … oooh - didnt know this was an option - sounds much easier!!! Will look into it..........don't suppose theres a specific pump youd recommend?



I use the version of this one Screwfix sell for a few quid more:-

mailspeedmarine.com/too…ump


Screwfix ever so slightly similar one:-

screwfix.com/pro…tor

Only two caveats really:-

1 - The oil must be good and hot before extraction

2 - Some cars have a sharp bend at the bottom of the dipstick holder which makes this sort of tool tricky to use.

It removes around 90 -95% of the stated oil capacity of my car, much the same as using the drain plug but without the crawling about in the dirt.

what about this cheaper alternative

]http//ww…616

i would never use a sucktion pump to get the oil out ,,,u are leavin sludge in the bottomof ur car u cud get rid or by drainin and also u never fully get all the oil out out ,,,,,i also saw several threads on a audi owners forum warnin against usin these pumps by a lot of experienced guys/...............be aware on audi/volkswagon/seat etc i8 t engines always use a good quality oil and change regular as they have a common problem with the oil stump...oil stump pipe and oil pump gettin blocked with sludge and lowerin oil pressure and if driven in this state... resultin in a new engine bein needed

bigfella;7832599

i would never use a sucktion pump to get the oil out ,,,u are leavin … i would never use a sucktion pump to get the oil out ,,,u are leavin sludge in the bottomof ur car u cud get rid or by drainin and also u never fully get all the oil out out ,,,



Like I said I get 90 - 95% out I really can't see how the other 5-10% is going to make much difference.. Despite running 100 - 150K plus cars I don't get sludge in the sump, judging by the last time I did drain the sump.YMMV of course, I did warn it isn't suitable for all cars. Using a quality oil and changing regularly ( depending on your driving pattern) is a good idea with any car, particularly a turbo. I've seen plenty of experienced guys on motoring forums using oil extractors.

phatbhoy;7832038

what about this cheaper … what about this cheaper alternative]http://www.mptools.co.uk/products.asp?partno=104616



I've never seen that one before,it's certainly cheap. Looks very similar to the Pela one.

spamcan61;7832642

Like I said I get 90 - 95% out I really can't see how the other 5-10% is … Like I said I get 90 - 95% out I really can't see how the other 5-10% is going to make much difference.. Despite running 100 - 150K plus cars I don't get sludge in the sump, judging by the last time I did drain the sump.YMMV of course, I did warn it isn't suitable for all cars. Using a quality oil and changing regularly ( depending on your driving pattern) is a good idea with any car, particularly a turbo. I've seen plenty of experienced guys on motoring forums using oil extractors.



I might be missing something here but surely that 5/10% makes ALL the difference as the bottom of the sump is where all the crap is going to be sitting?

In most cars,the draw pipe for oil from the sump sits above the bottom of the sump precisely to avoid sucking sludge into the oil system. In fact compacted sludge that sits at the bottom of the sump is 'sort of safe' compared to something like sludge in the valve train which can move about and in extreme circumstances block an oil gallery. IMO the days when you got excessive black sludge in gasoline cars are over. Modern fuels are so stable that they don't really create sludge any more unless you run the oil out to excessive mileages.

Yet another reason to go for the Gulf oil!
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