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Creality ender 3 pro 3d printer £157.88 @ Tomtop
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Creality ender 3 pro 3d printer £157.88 @ Tomtop

£157.88£199.9921%Tomtop Deals
41
Posted 18th Sep 2019Shipping from Germany

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Cheapest I have found online you need to change it for china warehouse to germany one to take part on there flash sale. Free shipping aswell
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£240
mcexpertss18/09/2019 14:13

£240



You need to change to shipping to UK + "Ship From Germany Warehouse" to get the £157.88 offer which includes delivery

It's a Good deal; I bought one on amazon for about £200, and is excellent
Edited by: "Dnallov" 18th Sep 2019
I adore my Ender 3 and this is a good offer on the Pro (voted hot) but I would still recommend getting the 3X over the Pro.
Currently £145.42 also from TomTop and has "better" upgrades in my opinion, especially the tempered glass print bed which was the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3.
nanuek18/09/2019 14:33

I adore my Ender 3 and this is a good offer on the Pro (voted hot) but I …I adore my Ender 3 and this is a good offer on the Pro (voted hot) but I would still recommend getting the 3X over the Pro.Currently £145.42 also from TomTop and has "better" upgrades in my opinion, especially the tempered glass print bed which was the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3.


You think? People seem to think the pro is better overall. I'm still debating which one to get tbh. What upgrades are better? And the pro doesn't come with the glass bed?
nanuek18/09/2019 14:33

I adore my Ender 3 and this is a good offer on the Pro (voted hot) but I …I adore my Ender 3 and this is a good offer on the Pro (voted hot) but I would still recommend getting the 3X over the Pro.Currently £145.42 also from TomTop and has "better" upgrades in my opinion, especially the tempered glass print bed which was the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3.


Also curious as to why you think the 3x over the pro, I had thought the sturdier base was a big upgrade and could always purchase the glass bed separately
nekoangel18/09/2019 15:09

You think? People seem to think the pro is better overall. I'm still …You think? People seem to think the pro is better overall. I'm still debating which one to get tbh. What upgrades are better? And the pro doesn't come with the glass bed?



The biggest selling point of the Pro for me would be the upgraded power supply but you are also paying for a magnetic plate which I would still then want to replace with a borosilicate glass plate.

The Pro also has a slightly more rigid frame but that solves a problem that no-one seems to be having.

The 3X is currently cheaper than the 3 + separate glass plate but if your budget won't stretch then you can get very good prints with the vanilla 3 and then upgrade at a later date.
This comparison has some more info
nanuek18/09/2019 15:17

The biggest selling point of the Pro for me would be the upgraded power …The biggest selling point of the Pro for me would be the upgraded power supply but you are also paying for a magnetic plate which I would still then want to replace with a borosilicate glass plate.The Pro also has a slightly more rigid frame but that solves a problem that no-one seems to be having.The 3X is currently cheaper than the 3 + separate glass plate but if your budget won't stretch then you can get very good prints with the vanilla 3 and then upgrade at a later date.


Interesting points , thanks, after reading that article yesterday I'd concluded the other way!
drummerian18/09/2019 15:13

Also curious as to why you think the 3x over the pro, I had thought the …Also curious as to why you think the 3x over the pro, I had thought the sturdier base was a big upgrade and could always purchase the glass bed separately



Price. With the Pro + glass bed you're paying for an "upgraded" bed and then paying again to replace it.

I got my borosilicate glass bed for £16 so you might be paying £28.46 more than the 3X which would still have a better nozzle.

The most compelling reason to get the Pro for me would be the branded power supply unit because it is statistically less likely to start a fire! However, it would still be unwise to leave the printer unattended regardless so doesn't seem like a obvious first upgrade.

My mindset was to spend as little as possible to start quality printing and then upgrade incrementally from there so the Pro would have eaten into my upgrade budget with things that were not my priorities.
nanuek18/09/2019 15:17

The biggest selling point of the Pro for me would be the upgraded power …The biggest selling point of the Pro for me would be the upgraded power supply but you are also paying for a magnetic plate which I would still then want to replace with a borosilicate glass plate.The Pro also has a slightly more rigid frame but that solves a problem that no-one seems to be having.The 3X is currently cheaper than the 3 + separate glass plate but if your budget won't stretch then you can get very good prints with the vanilla 3 and then upgrade at a later date.


Thank you for the explanation. People seemed to be going for the pro based on the psu. So it would be good to get a glass plate if someone were to get the pro. Decisions decisions.....
information is on the original earlier posted deal
nanuek18/09/2019 15:32

Price. With the Pro + glass bed you're paying for an "upgraded" bed and …Price. With the Pro + glass bed you're paying for an "upgraded" bed and then paying again to replace it.I got my borosilicate glass bed for £16 so you might be paying £28.46 more than the 3X which would still have a better nozzle.The most compelling reason to get the Pro for me would be the branded power supply unit because it is statistically less likely to start a fire! However, it would still be unwise to leave the printer unattended regardless so doesn't seem like a obvious first upgrade.My mindset was to spend as little as possible to start quality printing and then upgrade incrementally from there so the Pro would have eaten into my upgrade budget with things that were not my priorities.


I had understood that the upgraded frame was worth more (though perhaps that's not the case as you say above). I also understood that the extruder is upgraded on the 3x buy eventually would look to upgrade this anyway, not sure how much better the 3x is vs what you could buy elsewhere for the pro at a later date.

Will take another look , thanks for the input.
nekoangel18/09/2019 15:41

Thank you for the explanation. People seemed to be going for the pro based …Thank you for the explanation. People seemed to be going for the pro based on the psu. So it would be good to get a glass plate if someone were to get the pro. Decisions decisions.....



I wouldn't say the glass plate was a must-have but it was definitely my first hardware upgrade and it made a big difference.

Just to muddy the waters further (sorry):

1) I don't think you could easily upgrade the 3/3X Y axis to match the Pro. All the other differences (power supply, print bed & extruder) can be.
2) Some people buying the 3/3X report receiving the larger (4040) Y-axis anyway!
Edited by: "nanuek" 18th Sep 2019
nanuek18/09/2019 15:51

I wouldn't say the glass plate was a must-have but it was definitely my …I wouldn't say the glass plate was a must-have but it was definitely my first hardware upgrade and it made a big difference.Just to muddy the waters further (sorry):1) I don't think you could easily upgrade the 3/3X Y axis to match the Pro. All the other differences (power supply, print bed & extruder) can be.2) Some people buying the 3/3X report receiving the larger (4040) Y-axis anyway!


Do you mean as part of the purchase? Ie although not specified it happens to come as 4040
drummerian18/09/2019 15:52

Do you mean as part of the purchase? Ie although not specified it happens …Do you mean as part of the purchase? Ie although not specified it happens to come as 4040



Yes, although I'm basing this only on some reddit posts. Perhaps it was simpler for Creality to produce the one frame for all 3 printers.
Thanks bought just to print another 3d printer
As a complete newbie to the whole concept of 3d printing - has anyone got any recommendations for reading / research so i can get a base level understanding?

Thanks
nanuek18/09/2019 15:51

I wouldn't say the glass plate was a must-have but it was definitely my …I wouldn't say the glass plate was a must-have but it was definitely my first hardware upgrade and it made a big difference.Just to muddy the waters further (sorry):1) I don't think you could easily upgrade the 3/3X Y axis to match the Pro. All the other differences (power supply, print bed & extruder) can be.2) Some people buying the 3/3X report receiving the larger (4040) Y-axis anyway!


Haha thank you. Its fine I like to research a lot before hitting that buy button. I'm testing to read as much as possible but it's still slightly jargon like even to me.
nanuek18/09/2019 16:00

Yes, although I'm basing this only on some reddit posts. Perhaps it was …Yes, although I'm basing this only on some reddit posts. Perhaps it was simpler for Creality to produce the one frame for all 3 printers.


Just when I thought I'd made the decision yesterday! Thanks fo providing so much I go though
b-gold18/09/2019 16:05

As a complete newbie to the whole concept of 3d printing - has anyone got …As a complete newbie to the whole concept of 3d printing - has anyone got any recommendations for reading / research so i can get a base level understanding?Thanks


YouTube Teaching Tech channel

Pretty much all the info you need is on there
nekoangel18/09/2019 15:09

You think? People seem to think the pro is better overall. I'm still …You think? People seem to think the pro is better overall. I'm still debating which one to get tbh. What upgrades are better? And the pro doesn't come with the glass bed?


Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I have a pro and honestly would recommend it over the 3x.

The Meanwell PSU (the branded power supply that only comes the pro) is quieter and safer. For me, this alone should justify the extra 20 quid. Also, the cheapest I have found a Meanwell PSU I found was £28.00. Admittedly it was not a through search but regardless it is something to consider, especially since you are going to be paying more and putting work into installing it. This may not be something you want to do if you don't like electrics.

Furthermore, the 40x40 y axis extrusion cannot be done to a Ender 3/3X without a lot of alterations and a bit of spare money (unless you are buying in bulk extrusions are not very cheap and that is before shipping). Also, if something goes wrong in the installation or there is a miscalculation it could degrade the performance of your machine which may not be noticeable at the time of install or first few prints.

Also, I really do not see the glass as that big on a selling point, I understand it has a surface on it to aid the print in sticking to the bed however, I think it beats the main purpose of printing on glass which is the glossy finish you get on the print surface.
I went to the local glass and mirror people and bought a made-to-measure piece of mirror that cost between £1 to £3 and a less than 5 minute wait as I watch the guy cut it. It works a treat most of the time.

Finally, the Ender 3 and 3X have the fan mounted on top, of the mainboard unit which resides under the bed; while you can print yourself a cover it is a design flaw that is present with the Ender 3 and 3X and not the pro. I am mystified as to why creativity didn't rectify with 3X and did with the 3 Pro, but anyway, I digress. If a spare wisp or piece of filament gets caught in the fan it can stop it from work which could lead to overheating of the mainboard, so if you do decide to get a 3 please print a cover for said fan.

A side note, as far as I am aware Creality decided to skimp on the XT-60 connectors on all Ender machines and get knock offs which is disturbing enough when it is carrying the electricity to the mainboard. But to further add further worry, some of the connections are not done properly and can over heat. This is not a good mix when you add the fact the the loose cable can come close to another hot part, the heated bed. I would make sure you clip this to the extrusion so it stays away from the bed and also give it check every now and then to make sure it is not too hot and also hasn't melt (if you are OK and experienced in electronics, a replacement would not be a bad idea).

In any case, you can't go wrong with either, but I would personally go with the Pro over the 3X. Just thought I would give you a differing point of view so you could look at both sides and weight the pros (no pun intended) and the cons for yourself.
MikeyG118/09/2019 21:21

Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I …Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I have a pro and honestly would recommend it over the 3x.The Meanwell PSU (the branded power supply that only comes the pro) is quieter and safer. For me, this alone should justify the extra 20 quid. Also, the cheapest I have found a Meanwell PSU I found was £28.00. Admittedly it was not a through search but regardless it is something to consider, especially since you are going to be paying more and putting work into installing it. This may not be something you want to do if you don't like electrics.Furthermore, the 40x40 y axis extrusion cannot be done to a Ender 3/3X without a lot of alterations and a bit of spare money (unless you are buying in bulk extrusions are not very cheap and that is before shipping). Also, if something goes wrong in the installation or there is a miscalculation it could degrade the performance of your machine which may not be noticeable at the time of install or first few prints.Also, I really do not see the glass as that big on a selling point, I understand it has a surface on it to aid the print in sticking to the bed however, I think it beats the main purpose of printing on glass which is the glossy finish you get on the print surface.I went to the local glass and mirror people and bought a made-to-measure piece of mirror that cost between £1 to £3 and a less than 5 minute wait as I watch the guy cut it. It works a treat most of the time.Finally, the Ender 3 and 3X have the fan mounted on top, of the mainboard unit which resides under the bed; while you can print yourself a cover it is a design flaw that is present with the Ender 3 and 3X and not the pro. I am mystified as to why creativity didn't rectify with 3X and did with the 3 Pro, but anyway, I digress. If a spare wisp or piece of filament gets caught in the fan it can stop it from work which could lead to overheating of the mainboard, so if you do decide to get a 3 please print a cover for said fan.A side note, as far as I am aware Creality decided to skimp on the XT-60 connectors on all Ender machines and get knock offs which is disturbing enough when it is carrying the electricity to the mainboard. But to further add further worry, some of the connections are not done properly and can over heat. This is not a good mix when you add the fact the the loose cable can come close to another hot part, the heated bed. I would make sure you clip this to the extrusion so it stays away from the bed and also give it check every now and then to make sure it is not too hot and also hasn't melt (if you are OK and experienced in electronics, a replacement would not be a bad idea). In any case, you can't go wrong with either, but I would personally go with the Pro over the 3X. Just thought I would give you a differing point of view so you could look at both sides and weight the pros (no pun intended) and the cons for yourself.


Thanks for this advice also, seems like lots of different opinions all over the net, shame they dont do a more clear winner!
MikeyG118/09/2019 21:21

Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I …Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I have a pro and honestly would recommend it over the 3x.The Meanwell PSU (the branded power supply that only comes the pro) is quieter and safer. For me, this alone should justify the extra 20 quid. Also, the cheapest I have found a Meanwell PSU I found was £28.00. Admittedly it was not a through search but regardless it is something to consider, especially since you are going to be paying more and putting work into installing it. This may not be something you want to do if you don't like electrics.Furthermore, the 40x40 y axis extrusion cannot be done to a Ender 3/3X without a lot of alterations and a bit of spare money (unless you are buying in bulk extrusions are not very cheap and that is before shipping). Also, if something goes wrong in the installation or there is a miscalculation it could degrade the performance of your machine which may not be noticeable at the time of install or first few prints.Also, I really do not see the glass as that big on a selling point, I understand it has a surface on it to aid the print in sticking to the bed however, I think it beats the main purpose of printing on glass which is the glossy finish you get on the print surface.I went to the local glass and mirror people and bought a made-to-measure piece of mirror that cost between £1 to £3 and a less than 5 minute wait as I watch the guy cut it. It works a treat most of the time.Finally, the Ender 3 and 3X have the fan mounted on top, of the mainboard unit which resides under the bed; while you can print yourself a cover it is a design flaw that is present with the Ender 3 and 3X and not the pro. I am mystified as to why creativity didn't rectify with 3X and did with the 3 Pro, but anyway, I digress. If a spare wisp or piece of filament gets caught in the fan it can stop it from work which could lead to overheating of the mainboard, so if you do decide to get a 3 please print a cover for said fan.A side note, as far as I am aware Creality decided to skimp on the XT-60 connectors on all Ender machines and get knock offs which is disturbing enough when it is carrying the electricity to the mainboard. But to further add further worry, some of the connections are not done properly and can over heat. This is not a good mix when you add the fact the the loose cable can come close to another hot part, the heated bed. I would make sure you clip this to the extrusion so it stays away from the bed and also give it check every now and then to make sure it is not too hot and also hasn't melt (if you are OK and experienced in electronics, a replacement would not be a bad idea). In any case, you can't go wrong with either, but I would personally go with the Pro over the 3X. Just thought I would give you a differing point of view so you could look at both sides and weight the pros (no pun intended) and the cons for yourself.


Really appreciate it. I think I can get the ender 3 pro from the UK Ali express warehouse for 148 roughly. That seem good?
drummerian18/09/2019 21:26

Thanks for this advice also, seems like lots of different opinions all …Thanks for this advice also, seems like lots of different opinions all over the net, shame they dont do a more clear winner!


There is no out right winner, I depends what you want to do. But i think for the majority, the pro is the best. Most people with lots of 3D printer experience e.g. YouTubers recommend the stock ender 3 over any other I don't see why personally. Which ever one you pick you will most likely not be disappoint but I do think at the price especially the Pro is untouchable for 3D printer at this price point. Again my opinion. But at same time the pro has less cons and more pros than the stock one and that to me makes it objectively better therefore. An extra 12 quid isn't much worse in price so it is defo the choice i would make.
nekoangel18/09/2019 21:31

Really appreciate it. I think I can get the ender 3 pro from the UK Ali …Really appreciate it. I think I can get the ender 3 pro from the UK Ali express warehouse for 148 roughly. That seem good?


Hadn't spotted that, any chance of a link?
drummerian18/09/2019 22:11

Hadn't spotted that, any chance of a link?


It's a thing in the app using coupons. Not sure I can link it. Sorry.
nekoangel18/09/2019 21:31

Really appreciate it. I think I can get the ender 3 pro from the UK Ali …Really appreciate it. I think I can get the ender 3 pro from the UK Ali express warehouse for 148 roughly. That seem good?


I got mine from Ali for roughly that price, everything was and is great.
anyone have a good experience with TomTop, im tempted but the reviews of their service has put me off. Not used Ali either for that matter.

I think its fair to say which ever you get (and for a lot of other printers) there are lots of upgrades you might try, for the basics all three are pretty close, the extra wide Y axis sounds better. Do they all have the same nozzle, isnt that another change on the pro with the Mk10 compared to Mk8.
I started off with an Anet A8 just over a year ago as a hobby (£130) but couldn't get my head round why I wasn't getting half decent prints so after lots of youtube video's of upgrading firmware buying a upgraded motherboard & 24v PSU thought I was the man until I heated up the heatbed to 50 degrees and then popped the PSU (spent over £100 on little upgrades on a DIY 3D printer you can now pickup for about £80 but need to print off a shed load of brackets to sturdy the flimsy frame.
So it's on the shelf for another day to resume fixing lol).
So got myself an Anycube SLA LCD Photon Resin printer (£250) and wow the detail in the models are second to none, only down sides to these are the time it takes to print your model, The Small build area and Resin which is messy and is very bad for you if you inhale it or spill it onto your skin which will give you a chemical burn!
So was on the Bay when a Refurb Enders 3 Pro came up for £140 and I had £40 voucher there was a no brainer buy it now and money well spent as almost as soon as I built it got the heat bed balanced out and was printing almost flawless prints within an hour or so!
But Glad I started off with the Anet A8 as I got the full build experience and understanding of how it all works and will go back to it as I'm still at an early learning stage and everyday is a school day
Edited by: "buckiebull" 18th Sep 2019
Got my 3 Pro for £138 with glass in May, on the aliexpress app you can do bundles which gave me the glass for like £1 extra.

Really pleased with the printer, great prints, there is a learning curve and tweaking every so often, but overall its fine and that's a general 3d printer thing, not ender specific.

There's no such thing as fake xt-60 as it's open source but the quality can vary, mines fine and newer ones should have the problem fixed (crimped not soldered but it doesn't hurt to check). Main board wires they're soldered into screw terminals which isn't great and they can creep out, the fix is they now glue them in, but again doesn't hurt to check.

You probably want to flash your board to add thermal runaway protection as well to massively reduce the fire risk, easiest way is with a raspberry pi and with the pro at least before you build it as the boards hard to access after.

Accessories wise I love my official glass, prints stick every time, don't need anything on the surface and they pop off on their own once it cools. Also get the better yellow springs (£3), means you need to level the board every 3 months or so, not every few days. Also get an aluminium extruder (£5), the stock one WILL fail and your prints will start going bad and it'll take you ages to realise why. The springs and aluminium extruder again are best to just fit during the build, follow a YouTube video for it as the instructions are poor and there are better ways.
dcx_badass19/09/2019 00:47

Got my 3 Pro for £138 with glass in May, on the aliexpress app you can do …Got my 3 Pro for £138 with glass in May, on the aliexpress app you can do bundles which gave me the glass for like £1 extra.Really pleased with the printer, great prints, there is a learning curve and tweaking every so often, but overall its fine and that's a general 3d printer thing, not ender specific.There's no such thing as fake xt-60 as it's open source but the quality can vary, mines fine and newer ones should have the problem fixed (crimped not soldered but it doesn't hurt to check). Main board wires they're soldered into screw terminals which isn't great and they can creep out, the fix is they now glue them in, but again doesn't hurt to check.You probably want to flash your board to add thermal runaway protection as well to massively reduce the fire risk, easiest way is with a raspberry pi and with the pro at least before you build it as the boards hard to access after.Accessories wise I love my official glass, prints stick every time, don't need anything on the surface and they pop off on their own once it cools. Also get the better yellow springs (£3), means you need to level the board every 3 months or so, not every few days. Also get an aluminium extruder (£5), the stock one WILL fail and your prints will start going bad and it'll take you ages to realise why. The springs and aluminium extruder again are best to just fit during the build, follow a YouTube video for it as the instructions are poor and there are better ways.


I remember seeing you comment about the bundles before but I don't think there is anything that good going atm. I've found the machine for around 148.im going to keep looking but thank you for the above. Ill have to have a look at the pieces you've mentioned and see if I can get a whole bunch of upgrades before I build it.

I keep reading about adding a pi. Is it that good? (haven't had a chance to research that bit yet)
MikeyG118/09/2019 21:21

Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I …Sorry to contradict @nanuek 's advice and risk confusing you more but I have a pro and honestly would recommend it over the 3x.The Meanwell PSU (the branded power supply that only comes the pro) is quieter and safer. For me, this alone should justify the extra 20 quid. Also, the cheapest I have found a Meanwell PSU I found was £28.00. Admittedly it was not a through search but regardless it is something to consider, especially since you are going to be paying more and putting work into installing it. This may not be something you want to do if you don't like electrics.Furthermore, the 40x40 y axis extrusion cannot be done to a Ender 3/3X without a lot of alterations and a bit of spare money (unless you are buying in bulk extrusions are not very cheap and that is before shipping). Also, if something goes wrong in the installation or there is a miscalculation it could degrade the performance of your machine which may not be noticeable at the time of install or first few prints.Also, I really do not see the glass as that big on a selling point, I understand it has a surface on it to aid the print in sticking to the bed however, I think it beats the main purpose of printing on glass which is the glossy finish you get on the print surface.I went to the local glass and mirror people and bought a made-to-measure piece of mirror that cost between £1 to £3 and a less than 5 minute wait as I watch the guy cut it. It works a treat most of the time.Finally, the Ender 3 and 3X have the fan mounted on top, of the mainboard unit which resides under the bed; while you can print yourself a cover it is a design flaw that is present with the Ender 3 and 3X and not the pro. I am mystified as to why creativity didn't rectify with 3X and did with the 3 Pro, but anyway, I digress. If a spare wisp or piece of filament gets caught in the fan it can stop it from work which could lead to overheating of the mainboard, so if you do decide to get a 3 please print a cover for said fan.A side note, as far as I am aware Creality decided to skimp on the XT-60 connectors on all Ender machines and get knock offs which is disturbing enough when it is carrying the electricity to the mainboard. But to further add further worry, some of the connections are not done properly and can over heat. This is not a good mix when you add the fact the the loose cable can come close to another hot part, the heated bed. I would make sure you clip this to the extrusion so it stays away from the bed and also give it check every now and then to make sure it is not too hot and also hasn't melt (if you are OK and experienced in electronics, a replacement would not be a bad idea). In any case, you can't go wrong with either, but I would personally go with the Pro over the 3X. Just thought I would give you a differing point of view so you could look at both sides and weight the pros (no pun intended) and the cons for yourself.


Some good info for anyone trying to choose. I would just clarify a couple of points about the glass bed:
1) Only one side is textured and even then no more textured than the buildtak bed it replaces. Given the choice I use the textured side for best results.
2) Normal glass, like that used in mirrors, can easily shatter after a few cycles of heating/cooling. The glass print beds are made out of borosilicate glass (like Pyrex) which can withstand significantly more mechanical and thermal strain.
nekoangel19/09/2019 08:05

I keep reading about adding a pi. Is it that good? (haven't had a chance …I keep reading about adding a pi. Is it that good? (haven't had a chance to research that bit yet)



The Ender 3s have a Mini USB port on the front so you can hook up a Raspberry Pi running specific 3D printing software. The one I use and hear most about is OctoPrint which is easy to get set up on a Pi.

It allows you to control your printer from a website rather than the LCD panel. I also have my Pi hooked up to a Webcam so I can record timelapses. It doesn't allow for remote printing but it is a much better interface.

Most people also seem to use the OctoPrint setup to upload files to print rather than use the MicroSD card. Octoprint then sends the instructions one at a time to the Sanguino processor in the Ender 3 via the cable. I found that the Ender 3 doesn't cope well with this, particularly on tight curves, and you get stuttering on those prints when running from Octoprint rather than SD card.

I still love my Octoprint setup but if you go down that route just know that you may not get away from having to loads you prints via SD card.
nanuek19/09/2019 08:50

The Ender 3s have a Mini USB port on the front so you can hook up a …The Ender 3s have a Mini USB port on the front so you can hook up a Raspberry Pi running specific 3D printing software. The one I use and hear most about is OctoPrint which is easy to get set up on a Pi.It allows you to control your printer from a website rather than the LCD panel. I also have my Pi hooked up to a Webcam so I can record timelapses. It doesn't allow for remote printing but it is a much better interface.Most people also seem to use the OctoPrint setup to upload files to print rather than use the MicroSD card. Octoprint then sends the instructions one at a time to the Sanguino processor in the Ender 3 via the cable. I found that the Ender 3 doesn't cope well with this, particularly on tight curves, and you get stuttering on those prints when running from Octoprint rather than SD card.I still love my Octoprint setup but if you go down that route just know that you may not get away from having to loads you prints via SD card.


Oh nice! I've been itching to get a raspberry pi project going but never had a need for one lol. Thank you!
dcx_badass19/09/2019 00:47

You probably want to flash your board to add thermal runaway protection as …You probably want to flash your board to add thermal runaway protection as well to massively reduce the fire risk, easiest way is with a raspberry pi and with the pro at least before you build it as the boards hard to access after.


The best upgrade I did for my Ender 3 was flashing a bootloader then flashing the latest version of Marlin so that I could enable software bed levelling. I also did the flashing with a Raspberry Pi.

You need direct access to the board in order to flash the bootloader for the first time but once that's done you can flash firmware updates and tweaks via the USB port. Octoprint even has a plugin for it.
Edited by: "nanuek" 19th Sep 2019
nekoangel19/09/2019 08:56

Oh nice! I've been itching to get a raspberry pi project going but never …Oh nice! I've been itching to get a raspberry pi project going but never had a need for one lol. Thank you!



If you're not driving the print from Octoprint you can use a Raspberry Pi Zero W which costs under £10. If you're going to use it to flash a bootloader and you're not keen on soldering then you can get one with pre-soldered header pins for about £13.

Don't buy a case because you'll print one.
nanuek19/09/2019 09:06

If you're not driving the print from Octoprint you can use a Raspberry Pi …If you're not driving the print from Octoprint you can use a Raspberry Pi Zero W which costs under £10. If you're going to use it to flash a bootloader and you're not keen on soldering then you can get one with pre-soldered header pins for about £13.Don't buy a case because you'll print one.


Would it be worth getting a full fat pi? I have no idea what driving the print means in this instance lol
nekoangel19/09/2019 09:12

Would it be worth getting a full fat pi? I have no idea what driving the …Would it be worth getting a full fat pi? I have no idea what driving the print means in this instance lol


If you've got the money then yes. If any of this is vaguely interesting to you then you'll find a use for it, probably several!

By driving the print I mean printing from Octoprint (running on the Pi) over the USB cable. The Pi Zero isn't really up to it but a Pi 3B+ is.

The alternative is to print from the SDCard and then Octorpint is more for monitoring the print. I get better quality prints this way but YMMV
nanuek19/09/2019 09:23

If you've got the money then yes. If any of this is vaguely interesting to …If you've got the money then yes. If any of this is vaguely interesting to you then you'll find a use for it, probably several!By driving the print I mean printing from Octoprint (running on the Pi) over the USB cable. The Pi Zero isn't really up to it but a Pi 3B+ is.The alternative is to print from the SDCard and then Octorpint is more for monitoring the print. I get better quality prints this way but YMMV


Oh I'm very interested lol I love tech and I like to go as all in as possible.
nekoangel19/09/2019 09:12

Would it be worth getting a full fat pi? I have no idea what driving the …Would it be worth getting a full fat pi? I have no idea what driving the print means in this instance lol



nanuek19/09/2019 09:23

If you've got the money then yes. If any of this is vaguely interesting to …If you've got the money then yes. If any of this is vaguely interesting to you then you'll find a use for it, probably several!By driving the print I mean printing from Octoprint (running on the Pi) over the USB cable. The Pi Zero isn't really up to it but a Pi 3B+ is.The alternative is to print from the SDCard and then Octorpint is more for monitoring the print. I get better quality prints this way but YMMV


I recently watched a video from Thomas Sanladerer, the most recent Pi 4 is the fastest but is a little pricey.
here is the video... I find he is one of the most unbiased reviewers when it comes to 3D printing and he really know his stuff.
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