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CREALITY Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer £237.99 at Box.co.uk
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CREALITY Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer £237.99 at Box.co.uk

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Posted 16th Jun
A great 1st 3d printer delivered next day
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I'm sure I've seen this regularly below £185.
19 Comments
I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer. I'm a complete novice and would like something low priced but decent enough to accurately make small parts. Is this a good option?
I'm sure I've seen this regularly below £185.
fredh16/06/2020 14:57

I'm sure I've seen this regularly below £185.


£180.99 yes 23 hrs ago in a deal on here from Ali Express

and im still looking for a great deal on the ender 5 pro
Good printer, poor price, got mine for £138 with glass bed last may from Aliexpress, delivered in 3 days.
kobrakaan116/06/2020 15:04

£180.99 yes 23 hrs ago in a deal on here from Ali Express and im …£180.99 yes 23 hrs ago in a deal on here from Ali Express and im still looking for a great deal on the ender 5 pro


£287 on another thread here... Struggling to bite.
Browse over past posts plenty info and advice. Even a standard Ender 3 be great for learning. Big online community happy to help when you run into problems.
dcx_badass16/06/2020 15:09

Good printer, poor price, got mine for £138 with glass bed last may from …Good printer, poor price, got mine for £138 with glass bed last may from Aliexpress, delivered in 3 days.


The Pro? Cause I've only ever seen the normal version cheap.
I'm waiting for the delivery (August) of the Creality 6SE as auto leveling bed a real saviour for a novice like me
This isn’t cheap but I guess it has the benefit of faster delivery. Also with the seller being UK based if their is an issue it will be so much easier to deal with.
slannmage16/06/2020 16:34

The Pro? Cause I've only ever seen the normal version cheap.


My comment would be pretty irrelevant if it wasn't for the pro...

41113993.jpg
I got refunded $1.53 for the nozzles because they never came from China, the rest was shipped from the UK and came in 3 days.


Upgrades I've done:

Essential
± Yellow Springs (£3 - UK)
± Metal Extruder (£5 - UK) (or a better dual gear metal one for about £10-15)
± Print a Filament Guide, buy some cheap 608 bearings for a pound or two for it.

Quality of Life improvements:
± SKR Mini E3 (I have v1.2, there's also a v2.0 out as well now, both will work fine, just one has more features, mostly physical expansion like dual z, software wise basically the same and costs a little more), 32bit Silent mainboard, silence, faster/better quality prints, more future proof (£22 - Aliexpress)
± Trianglelabs 3D Touch, autobed levelling, no more messing about manually doing it, it just works (£12 - Aliexpress)
± Official Glass Bed, nice flat surface which gives a good finish and things stick well (unsure of price, my bundle came with it)

Other upgrades
± BMG Dual Gear extruder (£12 - China), works ok but didn't make much difference, I'd probably get one of the dual gear metal ones instead as they're easier to work with.
± VSlot covers, rubber strip that slots in the vslots of the frame, available in various colours and stops them getting filled with dirt, you can print them, but at under £1 a metre (get about 4m) on aliexpress it's easier to just buy a big roll and cut to length than spending hours printing and stacking various lengths.


Filament I've only ever bought the cheapest possible on ebay for £7-8 a kilo and never ever had an issue, unfortunately not available atm due to Covid.
Edited by: "dcx_badass" 16th Jun
slannmage16/06/2020 16:34

The Pro? Cause I've only ever seen the normal version cheap.

The prices are going up because of Covid, before Christmas they were around £150. I paid £160 5 weeks ago for my pro.
dcx_badass16/06/2020 17:21

My comment would be pretty irrelevant if it wasn't for the pro... …My comment would be pretty irrelevant if it wasn't for the pro... [Image] I got refunded $1.53 for the nozzles because they never came from China, the rest was shipped from the UK and came in 3 days.Upgrades I've done:Essential± Yellow Springs (£3 - UK)± Metal Extruder (£5 - UK) (or a better dual gear metal one for about £10-15)± Print a Filament Guide, buy some cheap 608 bearings for a pound or two for it.Quality of Life improvements:± SKR Mini E3 (I have v1.2, there's also a v2.0 out as well now, both will work fine, just one has more features, mostly physical expansion like dual z, software wise basically the same and costs a little more), 32bit Silent mainboard, silence, faster/better quality prints, more future proof (£22 - Aliexpress)± Trianglelabs 3D Touch, autobed levelling, no more messing about manually doing it, it just works (£12 - Aliexpress)± Official Glass Bed, nice flat surface which gives a good finish and things stick well (unsure of price, my bundle came with it)Other upgrades± BMG Dual Gear extruder (£12 - China), works ok but didn't make much difference, I'd probably get one of the dual gear metal ones instead as they're easier to work with.± VSlot covers, rubber strip that slots in the vslots of the frame, available in various colours and stops them getting filled with dirt, you can print them, but at under £1 a metre (get about 4m) on aliexpress it's easier to just buy a big roll and cut to length than spending hours printing and stacking various lengths.Filament I've only ever bought the cheapest possible on ebay for £7-8 a kilo and never ever had an issue, unfortunately not available atm due to Covid.


Made similar upgrades to mine, waiting for 3D touch and skr v2. to come from China.
Edited by: "_sion" 16th Jun
Chris_Poole16/06/2020 14:53

I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer. I'm a complete novice and …I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer. I'm a complete novice and would like something low priced but decent enough to accurately make small parts. Is this a good option?


It depends what you want out of your printer. Like vehicles, there are different shapes, sizes and technologies. The main two in 3D Printing being FDM (also less commonly known as FFF) and SLA (A.K.A 'MSLA')

What do you mean be small parts?
If you mean like figurines and ornamental things. Then you may want to look at SLA because of their superior surface finish. SLA prints are the best looking and since there is only one moving axis, there are less moving parts to worry about however; they are a little more demanding than an FDM. The material that you need to print is a resin. Resin is a hard to work within and is irritates the skin if it comes it to the contact and as with most plastic is not to be ingested. So gloves and masks should be worn and the printer should probably be in a ventilated room where people and animals don't go. SLA prints need to be washed which is normally done in isopropyl alcohol other liquids and then needs to be cured under UV light. This can be sunlight but in the UK you will probably save a lot of time if you buy a nail polish curing station or other UV curing source.

FDM is the cheaper option and is probably the most beginner friendly. But the print finish is not as nice as sla, with FDM there are more filament types such as flexible filaments, carbon fibres and wood filaments being the most exotic. PLA is the most popular and easiest to print with, however it is weak when put beside abs and petg. Also PLA will lose it structure when it is very hot so prints in PLA can't be left in a hot car for example. ABS is strong but pretty much mandates you put the printer in an enclosure, also not recommended that printer is without ventilation when printing this material as the particles it lets of are said to be unsafe. PETG is slowly over taking ABS because I believe it is easier to print but with less of the nasty airborne stuff.

It is important to do some of your own research for what you want.
If you want an FDM printer, the most user friendly ones are probably the Prusa printers - however they are slightly expensive but prusa have customer support if that is something you like the sound of and think you will use.

The cheapest Prusa is the the Prusa Mini - shop.prusa3d.com/en/…tml
It has a small print area but is still nice - it is £335 for the printer and requires minimal assembly. (on back order until September due to Corona). While a bit pricey prusas have good resale value

The Prusa MK3S is also good but is 700 for the kit which you build yourself or 900 to come pre built. - again very user friendly but a hefty price for someone not sure if they want to take it up as a hobby. Again Prusa have very good resale value though

The ender 3 pro or ender 5 is what I would recommend for a cheaper printer with a bigger build surface but please know going in that they may need some tinkering to get them to a very good level - you should be aiming to pick up an ender 3 pro for around 180£ and ender 5 for around to 200£ ish. I have a Ender 3 Pro and love it - I have done a few mods most notably a main board swap and now it is whisper quiet compare to what it was. There is a massive ender 3 community - any problems you might have almost definitely been ran into and people are normally more than happy to help .

Hope this helps
MikeyG116/06/2020 18:52

It depends what you want out of your printer. Like vehicles, there are …It depends what you want out of your printer. Like vehicles, there are different shapes, sizes and technologies. The main two in 3D Printing being FDM (also less commonly known as FFF) and SLA (A.K.A 'MSLA')What do you mean be small parts? If you mean like figurines and ornamental things. Then you may want to look at SLA because of their superior surface finish. SLA prints are the best looking and since there is only one moving axis, there are less moving parts to worry about however; they are a little more demanding than an FDM. The material that you need to print is a resin. Resin is a hard to work within and is irritates the skin if it comes it to the contact and as with most plastic is not to be ingested. So gloves and masks should be worn and the printer should probably be in a ventilated room where people and animals don't go. SLA prints need to be washed which is normally done in isopropyl alcohol other liquids and then needs to be cured under UV light. This can be sunlight but in the UK you will probably save a lot of time if you buy a nail polish curing station or other UV curing source.FDM is the cheaper option and is probably the most beginner friendly. But the print finish is not as nice as sla, with FDM there are more filament types such as flexible filaments, carbon fibres and wood filaments being the most exotic. PLA is the most popular and easiest to print with, however it is weak when put beside abs and petg. Also PLA will lose it structure when it is very hot so prints in PLA can't be left in a hot car for example. ABS is strong but pretty much mandates you put the printer in an enclosure, also not recommended that printer is without ventilation when printing this material as the particles it lets of are said to be unsafe. PETG is slowly over taking ABS because I believe it is easier to print but with less of the nasty airborne stuff.It is important to do some of your own research for what you want.If you want an FDM printer, the most user friendly ones are probably the Prusa printers - however they are slightly expensive but prusa have customer support if that is something you like the sound of and think you will use.The cheapest Prusa is the the Prusa Mini - https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.htmlIt has a small print area but is still nice - it is £335 for the printer and requires minimal assembly. (on back order until September due to Corona). While a bit pricey prusas have good resale valueThe Prusa MK3S is also good but is 700 for the kit which you build yourself or 900 to come pre built. - again very user friendly but a hefty price for someone not sure if they want to take it up as a hobby. Again Prusa have very good resale value thoughThe ender 3 pro or ender 5 is what I would recommend for a cheaper printer with a bigger build surface but please know going in that they may need some tinkering to get them to a very good level - you should be aiming to pick up an ender 3 pro for around 180£ and ender 5 for around to 200£ ish. I have a Ender 3 Pro and love it - I have done a few mods most notably a main board swap and now it is whisper quiet compare to what it was. There is a massive ender 3 community - any problems you might have almost definitely been ran into and people are normally more than happy to help .Hope this helps


Thank you very much for the amazingly detailed explanation. You've really helped educate me and open my eyes to what's available. I'd be more interested in functionals slightly more flexible plastic prints so I'm guessing FDM is the type I should go for?
dcx_badass16/06/2020 17:21

My comment would be pretty irrelevant if it wasn't for the pro... …My comment would be pretty irrelevant if it wasn't for the pro... [Image] I got refunded $1.53 for the nozzles because they never came from China, the rest was shipped from the UK and came in 3 days.Upgrades I've done:Essential± Yellow Springs (£3 - UK)± Metal Extruder (£5 - UK) (or a better dual gear metal one for about £10-15)± Print a Filament Guide, buy some cheap 608 bearings for a pound or two for it.Quality of Life improvements:± SKR Mini E3 (I have v1.2, there's also a v2.0 out as well now, both will work fine, just one has more features, mostly physical expansion like dual z, software wise basically the same and costs a little more), 32bit Silent mainboard, silence, faster/better quality prints, more future proof (£22 - Aliexpress)± Trianglelabs 3D Touch, autobed levelling, no more messing about manually doing it, it just works (£12 - Aliexpress)± Official Glass Bed, nice flat surface which gives a good finish and things stick well (unsure of price, my bundle came with it)Other upgrades± BMG Dual Gear extruder (£12 - China), works ok but didn't make much difference, I'd probably get one of the dual gear metal ones instead as they're easier to work with.± VSlot covers, rubber strip that slots in the vslots of the frame, available in various colours and stops them getting filled with dirt, you can print them, but at under £1 a metre (get about 4m) on aliexpress it's easier to just buy a big roll and cut to length than spending hours printing and stacking various lengths.Filament I've only ever bought the cheapest possible on ebay for £7-8 a kilo and never ever had an issue, unfortunately not available atm due to Covid.


do you have a link for the springs? Ive tried finding a uk wh on ali but nothing comes up
MikeyG116/06/2020 18:52

It depends what you want out of your printer. Like vehicles, there are …It depends what you want out of your printer. Like vehicles, there are different shapes, sizes and technologies. The main two in 3D Printing being FDM (also less commonly known as FFF) and SLA (A.K.A 'MSLA')What do you mean be small parts? If you mean like figurines and ornamental things. Then you may want to look at SLA because of their superior surface finish. SLA prints are the best looking and since there is only one moving axis, there are less moving parts to worry about however; they are a little more demanding than an FDM. The material that you need to print is a resin. Resin is a hard to work within and is irritates the skin if it comes it to the contact and as with most plastic is not to be ingested. So gloves and masks should be worn and the printer should probably be in a ventilated room where people and animals don't go. SLA prints need to be washed which is normally done in isopropyl alcohol other liquids and then needs to be cured under UV light. This can be sunlight but in the UK you will probably save a lot of time if you buy a nail polish curing station or other UV curing source.FDM is the cheaper option and is probably the most beginner friendly. But the print finish is not as nice as sla, with FDM there are more filament types such as flexible filaments, carbon fibres and wood filaments being the most exotic. PLA is the most popular and easiest to print with, however it is weak when put beside abs and petg. Also PLA will lose it structure when it is very hot so prints in PLA can't be left in a hot car for example. ABS is strong but pretty much mandates you put the printer in an enclosure, also not recommended that printer is without ventilation when printing this material as the particles it lets of are said to be unsafe. PETG is slowly over taking ABS because I believe it is easier to print but with less of the nasty airborne stuff.It is important to do some of your own research for what you want.If you want an FDM printer, the most user friendly ones are probably the Prusa printers - however they are slightly expensive but prusa have customer support if that is something you like the sound of and think you will use.The cheapest Prusa is the the Prusa Mini - https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.htmlIt has a small print area but is still nice - it is £335 for the printer and requires minimal assembly. (on back order until September due to Corona). While a bit pricey prusas have good resale valueThe Prusa MK3S is also good but is 700 for the kit which you build yourself or 900 to come pre built. - again very user friendly but a hefty price for someone not sure if they want to take it up as a hobby. Again Prusa have very good resale value thoughThe ender 3 pro or ender 5 is what I would recommend for a cheaper printer with a bigger build surface but please know going in that they may need some tinkering to get them to a very good level - you should be aiming to pick up an ender 3 pro for around 180£ and ender 5 for around to 200£ ish. I have a Ender 3 Pro and love it - I have done a few mods most notably a main board swap and now it is whisper quiet compare to what it was. There is a massive ender 3 community - any problems you might have almost definitely been ran into and people are normally more than happy to help .Hope this helps


Brilliant commentary. I have no intent to buy a 3D, but love to know how things work. The H&S aspects are a bit worrying.
LesD16/06/2020 20:08

Brilliant commentary. I have no intent to buy a 3D, but love to know how …Brilliant commentary. I have no intent to buy a 3D, but love to know how things work. The H&S aspects are a bit worrying.


Yes, it can be quite worrying - however there is not a lot of data on it unfortunately. Luckly though to print abs effectively it requires an enclosure which means it be leaking out of it and there are quite a few how-to on extraction and enclosures with extraction so it is going out of the windows instead of inside us.
Chris_Poole16/06/2020 19:08

Thank you very much for the amazingly detailed explanation. You've really …Thank you very much for the amazingly detailed explanation. You've really helped educate me and open my eyes to what's available. I'd be more interested in functionals slightly more flexible plastic prints so I'm guessing FDM is the type I should go for?


It it is flexible and functional parts- probably fdm will be your best bet. There are some flexible resins for sla if you really wanted.
Flexible are quite hard to print on FDM but it can definitely be done. An ender 3 with an ezr extruder will work nicely of maybe an ender 3 with a bondtech genuine or clone would probably work very nicely.
A MK3S would do a good job but as I said - quite pricey. Honestly best thing is watch and read as much as you can - research everything and definitely use varied sources for you info.
For example, there is channel called Teaching Tech and he does some reviews - his content is a bit hit and miss in my opinion his board change videos and software/firmware videos are good but I personally would stay well away from his heating, wiring guides and soldering guides.

The CR6 SE is a new printer from the same people who made the ender 3 and ender 5 - it isn't fully released yet - all their kickstarter units have sold out and i believe it is fully releasing soon - and from what I have seen it is an ender 3 but with all the mods that people do to make it an amazing printer come as standard - it was 210 on kickstarter I am unsure on it's final rrp - if i were to hazard at a guess probs around 300£ and might print flexibles better out of the box than an out of the box ender 3 however they are both bowden style extruders and direct drive fdm printer are probably the way to go for flexibles however as i said earlier ender 3 is fairly easy to get to print flexible or convert to direct drive which would be best for flexibles most likely.

If you have questions, don't be afraid to ask but definitely if you are serious about getting into it - start watching and reading reviews and comparisons.
Chris_Poole16/06/2020 19:08

Thank you very much for the amazingly detailed explanation. You've really …Thank you very much for the amazingly detailed explanation. You've really helped educate me and open my eyes to what's available. I'd be more interested in functionals slightly more flexible plastic prints so I'm guessing FDM is the type I should go for?


In fact Tom Sandladerer is a great source of info and has started a video series about 3D printing basics - he just started this series under a week ago so all the info is up to date. It is not quite finished yet i think he said the video series is going to be 8 parts and he is only at 4. If you want info - you could have started seeking it at a better time The series should give you most of the terminology/jargon and explain it. Hope it helps .
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