Unfortunately, this deal is no longer available
No Nonsense All-Purpose Ready-Mixed Filler White 1kg for £1.29 @ Screwfix (free c&c)
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No Nonsense All-Purpose Ready-Mixed Filler White 1kg for £1.29 @ Screwfix (free c&c)

£1.29£3.2961%Screwfix Deals
Expert (Beta) 52
Expert (Beta)
Posted 2nd Sep 2019

This deal is expired. Here are some options that might interest you:

Good option if you are decorating on a budget or would like to save time by using this ready mixed filler.

No Nonsense All-Purpose Ready-Mixed Filler White
1kg for £1.29 - Has 400+ good reviews and seems quite reasonable.

Available in store / free c&c

3288055.jpg
Ready to use, ready-mixed filler for interior and exterior use. Suitable for plaster, plasterboard, brick, wood and stone. Must be sealed with oil-based paint or varnish if used externally. Can be sanded when dry.

  • Use on Plasterwork, Skirting Boards, Windows & Door Frames
  • For Internal Use
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Top comments
essexsi02/09/2019 13:29

Hi, can I ask what you would use in a customers house. Cheers Si


It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here
Personally I'd use the same stuff to fill holes as I would to tape and fill.
I use:
Siniat joint filler 12.5kg POWDER x2 coats (alternatives gyproc easi fill B&Q)
GTEC smartmix xtra 20kg READY MIX x1 coat (used as a finish coat because its softer/easier to sand)
As you can see these are all rather large quantities but I use them daily because of my profession.
Not sure what I'd recommend for someone who only needs it for a few bits and bobs as I always have some in my van lol.
If you go for a powder of any size/quantity then keep it as air tight as you can in a dry place indoors. I saw someone say powders last for years in this thread but they will go off eventually, everything except mcdonalds food has an expiry date lol.
Ready mixes will go off a lot sooner as they have water content and you will know because they smell and look like poop when they have turned. Well the GTEC stuff does anyway lol.
I could go on forever...
Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it crumbles into nothing even if you use the finest sandpaper you can find afterwards.
Okish for new door facings/skirting which have been nailed in by a finishing gun but screw holes/anything bigger than a nail - I wouldn't waste your time.
There's a reason why ready mixed stuff like this is cheap.
If you're really adamant I recommend putting a bit of water over the hole before applying otherwise it doesn't 'stick' in and will just fall out lol.

- painter and decorator
Waste of money, unless you plan on using the whole tub within a certain time as any remaining filler in the tub will go hard and be unusable.
Better of getting a box of powdered pollifilla and mixing it yourself as and when needed, as its powdered stays good for years. Used some myself yesterday to fill some big screw holes top of a window recess with powdered pollifila I bought about 5 years ago from poundstretcher for a couple of quid.
My dentist swears by this
52 Comments
Cheers
Lies, to save more time you hire a professional to do it properly instead of redoing droppy holes you overfilled in one go.
Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it crumbles into nothing even if you use the finest sandpaper you can find afterwards.
Okish for new door facings/skirting which have been nailed in by a finishing gun but screw holes/anything bigger than a nail - I wouldn't waste your time.
There's a reason why ready mixed stuff like this is cheap.
If you're really adamant I recommend putting a bit of water over the hole before applying otherwise it doesn't 'stick' in and will just fall out lol.

- painter and decorator
Thanks alot. Bought 2 tubs.
Waste of money, unless you plan on using the whole tub within a certain time as any remaining filler in the tub will go hard and be unusable.
Better of getting a box of powdered pollifilla and mixing it yourself as and when needed, as its powdered stays good for years. Used some myself yesterday to fill some big screw holes top of a window recess with powdered pollifila I bought about 5 years ago from poundstretcher for a couple of quid.
Cloeeez02/09/2019 11:22

Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it …Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it crumbles into nothing even if you use the finest sandpaper you can find afterwards.Okish for new door facings/skirting which have been nailed in by a finishing gun but screw holes/anything bigger than a nail - I wouldn't waste your time.There's a reason why ready mixed stuff like this is cheap.If you're really adamant I recommend putting a bit of water over the hole before applying otherwise it doesn't 'stick' in and will just fall out lol.- painter and decorator


Hi, can I ask what you would use in a customers house. Cheers Si
essexsi02/09/2019 13:29

Hi, can I ask what you would use in a customers house. Cheers Si


It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here
Personally I'd use the same stuff to fill holes as I would to tape and fill.
I use:
Siniat joint filler 12.5kg POWDER x2 coats (alternatives gyproc easi fill B&Q)
GTEC smartmix xtra 20kg READY MIX x1 coat (used as a finish coat because its softer/easier to sand)
As you can see these are all rather large quantities but I use them daily because of my profession.
Not sure what I'd recommend for someone who only needs it for a few bits and bobs as I always have some in my van lol.
If you go for a powder of any size/quantity then keep it as air tight as you can in a dry place indoors. I saw someone say powders last for years in this thread but they will go off eventually, everything except mcdonalds food has an expiry date lol.
Ready mixes will go off a lot sooner as they have water content and you will know because they smell and look like poop when they have turned. Well the GTEC stuff does anyway lol.
I could go on forever...
My dentist swears by this
Cloeeez02/09/2019 14:13

It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here …It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here :pPersonally I'd use the same stuff to fill holes as I would to tape and fill.I use:Siniat joint filler 12.5kg POWDER x2 coats (alternatives gyproc easi fill B&Q)GTEC smartmix xtra 20kg READY MIX x1 coat (used as a finish coat because its softer/easier to sand)As you can see these are all rather large quantities but I use them daily because of my profession.Not sure what I'd recommend for someone who only needs it for a few bits and bobs as I always have some in my van lol.If you go for a powder of any size/quantity then keep it as air tight as you can in a dry place indoors. I saw someone say powders last for years in this thread but they will go off eventually, everything except mcdonalds food has an expiry date lol.Ready mixes will go off a lot sooner as they have water content and you will know because they smell and look like poop when they have turned. Well the GTEC stuff does anyway lol.I could go on forever...


Thanks for such a detailed response. You sound very professional!!
Thought it was a protein supplement :-)
Cloeeez02/09/2019 11:22

Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it …Fine for the price to keep around for the tiniest holes imaginable but it crumbles into nothing even if you use the finest sandpaper you can find afterwards.Okish for new door facings/skirting which have been nailed in by a finishing gun but screw holes/anything bigger than a nail - I wouldn't waste your time.There's a reason why ready mixed stuff like this is cheap.If you're really adamant I recommend putting a bit of water over the hole before applying otherwise it doesn't 'stick' in and will just fall out lol.- painter and decorator


Im no expert, but i had a crack in my plaster under a window, i watched a video on you tube and i made the crack wider, put some mesh (what plasterers use to cover two plasterboards, not sure on name) then filled, let it dry and refiled and sanded down. To date the crack has not appeared and you would never know there ever was one. This was two years ago. I used this filler. No issues.
steveblackman02/09/2019 19:14

Im no expert, but i had a crack in my plaster under a window, i watched a …Im no expert, but i had a crack in my plaster under a window, i watched a video on you tube and i made the crack wider, put some mesh (what plasterers use to cover two plasterboards, not sure on name) then filled, let it dry and refiled and sanded down. To date the crack has not appeared and you would never know there ever was one. This was two years ago. I used this filler. No issues.


Oh dear.
You used this stuff over fibre tape?!?!

If it looks fine to you then that's good as you're the one seeing it everyday.
Personally I wouldn't use this, like I said, for anything apart from miniscule holes.
It's not the type of filler that 'flushes' out with a wall nor does it normally leave a decent finish.
Ideally when filling holes or tapes, you want to fill a larger area (with each coat) than what you did beforehand so you do not see a bump/lump in the wall. It looks flush once sanded.
If you've managed to achieve that using this - especially over a tape then kudos to you but I highly doubt that (lol). It just isn't the right stuff to use over 'mesh' - fibre tape.
However, if it is a movement crack, you are better using something like decorators caulk to fill the crack, as it is more flexible once it is set. Although it does sink once set and may need 2-3 fills.
Inquisitor02/09/2019 10:53

Lies, to save more time you hire a professional to do it properly instead …Lies, to save more time you hire a professional to do it properly instead of redoing droppy holes you overfilled in one go.


Hmmm... I’m pretty sure there are plenty of us that can do a good job. Bit insulting really!
Cloeeez02/09/2019 19:33

Oh dear.You used this stuff over fibre tape?!?! If it looks fine to you …Oh dear.You used this stuff over fibre tape?!?! If it looks fine to you then that's good as you're the one seeing it everyday.Personally I wouldn't use this, like I said, for anything apart from miniscule holes.It's not the type of filler that 'flushes' out with a wall nor does it normally leave a decent finish.Ideally when filling holes or tapes, you want to fill a larger area (with each coat) than what you did beforehand so you do not see a bump/lump in the wall. It looks flush once sanded.If you've managed to achieve that using this - especially over a tape then kudos to you but I highly doubt that (lol). It just isn't the right stuff to use over 'mesh' - fibre tape.However, if it is a movement crack, you are better using something like decorators caulk to fill the crack, as it is more flexible once it is set. Although it does sink once set and may need 2-3 fills.


Good advice Cloeeez - The Gyproc Easifl is good stuff and they do the standard stuff in a 5 x 1kg bag in B&Q.

For small holes etc, I always find these ready mixed take ages to go off. I tend to use a 2 part car filler to fill deep stuff and then finish with a finer finish stuff like this.

Big shout out to Toupret as well. I have an 18 month old ready mix tub and still works (just needs a bit of water adding if it's a bit stiff.
Can this be used to bake cakes ?

Kindest regards
All purpose..
means good for nothing (a decorator)
I find the fillers tend to shrink back so for diy you get caught in a filling and sanding cycle (with dust) . Then as a diy’er found had to sort out the filled areas prior to paintingBad walls I’ve just got them skimmed by a pro. I’ve tried skimming small areas eg. Above a door. Pretty easy but left the walls, ceilings to pro’s. No way I could cover the areas quick enough
Edited by: "ashman33" 2nd Sep 2019
Cloeeez02/09/2019 14:13

It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here …It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here :pPersonally I'd use the same stuff to fill holes as I would to tape and fill.I use:Siniat joint filler 12.5kg POWDER x2 coats (alternatives gyproc easi fill B&Q)GTEC smartmix xtra 20kg READY MIX x1 coat (used as a finish coat because its softer/easier to sand)As you can see these are all rather large quantities but I use them daily because of my profession.Not sure what I'd recommend for someone who only needs it for a few bits and bobs as I always have some in my van lol.If you go for a powder of any size/quantity then keep it as air tight as you can in a dry place indoors. I saw someone say powders last for years in this thread but they will go off eventually, everything except mcdonalds food has an expiry date lol.Ready mixes will go off a lot sooner as they have water content and you will know because they smell and look like poop when they have turned. Well the GTEC stuff does anyway lol.I could go on forever...


Cheers, lol
lionheart230202/09/2019 19:38

Hmmm... I’m pretty sure there are plenty of us that can do a good job. Bit …Hmmm... I’m pretty sure there are plenty of us that can do a good job. Bit insulting really!


38385118-wgvZW.jpg
all this ready mix are ... better get one you have to mix more easy to sand it down and make smooth
Great find - thanks for posting
Cloeeez02/09/2019 19:33

Oh dear.You used this stuff over fibre tape?!?! If it looks fine to you …Oh dear.You used this stuff over fibre tape?!?! If it looks fine to you then that's good as you're the one seeing it everyday.Personally I wouldn't use this, like I said, for anything apart from miniscule holes.It's not the type of filler that 'flushes' out with a wall nor does it normally leave a decent finish.Ideally when filling holes or tapes, you want to fill a larger area (with each coat) than what you did beforehand so you do not see a bump/lump in the wall. It looks flush once sanded.If you've managed to achieve that using this - especially over a tape then kudos to you but I highly doubt that (lol). It just isn't the right stuff to use over 'mesh' - fibre tape.However, if it is a movement crack, you are better using something like decorators caulk to fill the crack, as it is more flexible once it is set. Although it does sink once set and may need 2-3 fills.


Im not making it up, can only go by personal experience.
Inquisitor02/09/2019 10:53

Lies, to save more time you hire a professional to do it properly instead …Lies, to save more time you hire a professional to do it properly instead of redoing droppy holes you overfilled in one go.


38385288-GORbi.jpg
Nonsense
Can be bought for a pound all year round in pound shops/home bargains etc.
Cloeeez02/09/2019 14:13

It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here …It really depends on the size of holes we are talking about here :pPersonally I'd use the same stuff to fill holes as I would to tape and fill.I use:Siniat joint filler 12.5kg POWDER x2 coats (alternatives gyproc easi fill B&Q)GTEC smartmix xtra 20kg READY MIX x1 coat (used as a finish coat because its softer/easier to sand)As you can see these are all rather large quantities but I use them daily because of my profession.Not sure what I'd recommend for someone who only needs it for a few bits and bobs as I always have some in my van lol.If you go for a powder of any size/quantity then keep it as air tight as you can in a dry place indoors. I saw someone say powders last for years in this thread but they will go off eventually, everything except mcdonalds food has an expiry date lol.Ready mixes will go off a lot sooner as they have water content and you will know because they smell and look like poop when they have turned. Well the GTEC stuff does anyway lol.I could go on forever...


Hi mate, you seem like you know your stuff. Do you specialise in taping and jointing?

I wonder if you could give me advice. I live in a 4 year old house, and typically in the last few years the tapes have started blowing. In some cases, there is barely any jointing compound on top of the tapes at all, like 1mm at most, so it's not surprising they're all going.

I redecorated 1 room last year, I re-did the tapes myself. I used easi fill and metal backed corner tapes to help get a nice straight corner. It came out well, but it took bloody forever! As it took like 4 coats of compound - pre-fill, then 1st coat, tape on top, then 3 more thin coats, feathering out wider each time. Then loads of sanding.

I can't be bothered doing all that again for every single room. It took about a week in total - not a week's work, but just loads of waiting for drying, cleaning all the dust, etc.

So my question is this. How would a pro do it, and how long should it take them? I've asked for a couple of quotes locally and they all say they can do it on a day. But I don't know how it's possible to do it professionally in a day as you have to leave each coat to dry? That makes me think they will take shortcuts and just PVC the tapes or something instead. What should I be asking for to get someone to do it properly?
edanfalls02/09/2019 21:18

Hi mate, you seem like you know your stuff. Do you specialise in taping …Hi mate, you seem like you know your stuff. Do you specialise in taping and jointing?I wonder if you could give me advice. I live in a 4 year old house, and typically in the last few years the tapes have started blowing. In some cases, there is barely any jointing compound on top of the tapes at all, like 1mm at most, so it's not surprising they're all going.I redecorated 1 room last year, I re-did the tapes myself. I used easi fill and metal backed corner tapes to help get a nice straight corner. It came out well, but it took bloody forever! As it took like 4 coats of compound - pre-fill, then 1st coat, tape on top, then 3 more thin coats, feathering out wider each time. Then loads of sanding.I can't be bothered doing all that again for every single room. It took about a week in total - not a week's work, but just loads of waiting for drying, cleaning all the dust, etc.So my question is this. How would a pro do it, and how long should it take them? I've asked for a couple of quotes locally and they all say they can do it on a day. But I don't know how it's possible to do it professionally in a day as you have to leave each coat to dry? That makes me think they will take shortcuts and just PVC the tapes or something instead. What should I be asking for to get someone to do it properly?


Ideally, as a professional, you should give us all your money and get us in!
But yeah a day is possible if you manage to get a coat on at 8am, the first coat should be dry for around 11, second coat at 11, go for lunch, third coat around 2 oclock and because the third is normally a 'finish' filler like the GTEC I mentioned earlier, it does take a lot longer to dry but you need it for the soft sand aspect.
Lol
Anyway.
I am a painter and decorator but I also tape and fill.
Corner tapes. Most people use paper tape - no metal for internal corners and paper-metal tapes for external. I use metal for both as I don't see the point in buying 2x products when essentially they do the same thing. (Apart from a roof slopey type joint - no metal)
Mix up filler in a bucket with a handle. Get a 2 inch paint brush, preferably one that is decent (not your 2£ per brush b&q snash that casts like a husky in the summer,) I recommended blue axus ones as they are IMO as good as purdys but without the hefty price tag. Blue ones are more flexible than grey ones.
Anyway
Cut your tape to size
Mix up filler
Grab your brush, dip in filler, coat both sides of corners very quickly, don't go mad with filler but have enough so the tape will stick. Apply tape.
I find it easier to do this in sections as I go along as it can start to set/dry by the time you have applied the 'back' filler when you try to then put tape on if you go too far along.
Once tape is on use a filling blade (half circle shape with a handle), i use a 6inch one but for non professionals a 4 inch one might be easier. Pull it along the tape and any excess filler should come out the edges, use the excess to then coat over the tape again.
That's how i'd work a corner tape job. Obviously professionals pick up speed through practise/time, that's how we manage these types of things within a day and also why we get the £
Cloeeez02/09/2019 21:28

Ideally, as a professional, you should give us all your money and get us …Ideally, as a professional, you should give us all your money and get us in!But yeah a day is possible if you manage to get a coat on at 8am, the first coat should be dry for around 11, second coat at 11, go for lunch, third coat around 2 oclock and because the third is normally a 'finish' filler like the GTEC I mentioned earlier, it does take a lot longer to dry but you need it for the soft sand aspect.LolAnyway.I am a painter and decorator but I also tape and fill.Corner tapes. Most people use paper tape - no metal for internal corners and paper-metal tapes for external. I use metal for both as I don't see the point in buying 2x products when essentially they do the same thing. (Apart from a roof slopey type joint - no metal)Mix up filler in a bucket with a handle. Get a 2 inch paint brush, preferably one that is decent (not your 2£ per brush b&q snash that casts like a husky in the summer,) I recommended blue axus ones as they are IMO as good as purdys but without the hefty price tag. Blue ones are more flexible than grey ones.AnywayCut your tape to sizeMix up fillerGrab your brush, dip in filler, coat both sides of corners very quickly, don't go mad with filler but have enough so the tape will stick. Apply tape.I find it easier to do this in sections as I go along as it can start to set/dry by the time you have applied the 'back' filler when you try to then put tape on if you go too far along.Once tape is on use a filling blade (half circle shape with a handle), i use a 6inch one but for non professionals a 4 inch one might be easier. Pull it along the tape and any excess filler should come out the edges, use the excess to then coat over the tape again.That's how i'd work a corner tape job. Obviously professionals pick up speed through practise/time, that's how we manage these types of things within a day and also why we get the £


Forgot, that's obviously a first coat but IMO the first coat is the most important as it 'beds' the tape. Second coat use the same type of filler and use a filling blade to apply/fill out. Third coat, finish filler, apply it out wider than the second coat as it's easier to sand that way.
Bargain... not a decorator... and it's a quid!!!
aleem02/09/2019 19:10

I've used Tourpret with good …I've used Tourpret with good results:https://www.screwfix.com/p/toupret-powdered-interior-filler-2kg/4911H?tc=OT3&ds_kid=92700030938248309&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1243321&gclid=CjwKCAjw-7LrBRB6EiwAhh1yX62SoJqX-8k6TVAjOAasxCPsKokc-WMJDOAs2jdAkA4HeCEsqGh-MRoCwJIQAvD_BwE


Toupret is really good stuff or slightly cheaper is tetrion - make up with water & pva
Cloeeez02/09/2019 21:28

Ideally, as a professional, you should give us all your money and get us …Ideally, as a professional, you should give us all your money and get us in!But yeah a day is possible if you manage to get a coat on at 8am, the first coat should be dry for around 11, second coat at 11, go for lunch, third coat around 2 oclock and because the third is normally a 'finish' filler like the GTEC I mentioned earlier, it does take a lot longer to dry but you need it for the soft sand aspect.LolAnyway.I am a painter and decorator but I also tape and fill.Corner tapes. Most people use paper tape - no metal for internal corners and paper-metal tapes for external. I use metal for both as I don't see the point in buying 2x products when essentially they do the same thing. (Apart from a roof slopey type joint - no metal)Mix up filler in a bucket with a handle. Get a 2 inch paint brush, preferably one that is decent (not your 2£ per brush b&q snash that casts like a husky in the summer,) I recommended blue axus ones as they are IMO as good as purdys but without the hefty price tag. Blue ones are more flexible than grey ones.AnywayCut your tape to sizeMix up fillerGrab your brush, dip in filler, coat both sides of corners very quickly, don't go mad with filler but have enough so the tape will stick. Apply tape.I find it easier to do this in sections as I go along as it can start to set/dry by the time you have applied the 'back' filler when you try to then put tape on if you go too far along.Once tape is on use a filling blade (half circle shape with a handle), i use a 6inch one but for non professionals a 4 inch one might be easier. Pull it along the tape and any excess filler should come out the edges, use the excess to then coat over the tape again.That's how i'd work a corner tape job. Obviously professionals pick up speed through practise/time, that's how we manage these types of things within a day and also why we get the £


Brilliant advice, thank you. To be honest, I tend to go a bit over the top trying to do things the right way, so I think I did most of that by the book. Except I probably went a bit too far, as I also did pre-fill in the gaps and let that set overnight, but that was probably necessary as the plasterboard was a bit gappy in the corners (typical sloppy new build). And I also used the metal tapes in the internal corners, as like you said, why not, it's still pretty cheap.

The other thing I did differently was I just used a single compound (Easi Fill) for all the coats including the top coat, just as it makes it easier for a beginner. It sanded really easily.

So the main difference by the sounds of it is just that I'm really, really slow and leaving it to dry longer than I need to. So yeah, time to get a pro in I think

In the first 2 years, the builder repaired a few tapes, and they just PVC'd them, I guess because it meant they could get them done in a couple of hours. But I'm not happy with the finish from PVC. So I'll have to try and find someone to do it properly. Most of the plasterers here don't go near tape, as most of the work is on old houses, cob walls, lath and plaster, etc!

I don't suppose you're in Devon? Thanks again for the great advice!
edanfalls03/09/2019 00:13

Brilliant advice, thank you. To be honest, I tend to go a bit over the top …Brilliant advice, thank you. To be honest, I tend to go a bit over the top trying to do things the right way, so I think I did most of that by the book. Except I probably went a bit too far, as I also did pre-fill in the gaps and let that set overnight, but that was probably necessary as the plasterboard was a bit gappy in the corners (typical sloppy new build). And I also used the metal tapes in the internal corners, as like you said, why not, it's still pretty cheap.The other thing I did differently was I just used a single compound (Easi Fill) for all the coats including the top coat, just as it makes it easier for a beginner. It sanded really easily.So the main difference by the sounds of it is just that I'm really, really slow and leaving it to dry longer than I need to. So yeah, time to get a pro in I think (y)In the first 2 years, the builder repaired a few tapes, and they just PVC'd them, I guess because it meant they could get them done in a couple of hours. But I'm not happy with the finish from PVC. So I'll have to try and find someone to do it properly. Most of the plasterers here don't go near tape, as most of the work is on old houses, cob walls, lath and plaster, etc!I don't suppose you're in Devon? Thanks again for the great advice!


Ahaha no, unfortunately i'm in Glasgow and there can be a huge gap between 'how things are done' between England and Scotland for some reason.
I'd try looking specifically for an ames taper or decorator who does taping. Last time I saw a plasterer attempt ames taping it ended up with a decorator having to go look at it to fix it and saying it will have to be plastered out now instead, it was that badly done. It's one of my more favourite things to do as there's a knack to doing it.
I'm gonna assume you mean PVA not PVC and I NEVER use PVA for anything. Hate the stuff. Plasterers always recommend to customers to PVA freshly plastered walls for the painter and it's the worst advice you can give anyone.
I wish you luck with your tapes but if you do have the time and you're happy with your standard I would really just attempt it yourself. As long as you cover the tape enough and don't leave thick edges which are impossible/a pain to sand flush then you're doing ok. 3 coats though not loads! I do recommend that for the final coat (3rd) using something like the GTEC stuff instead. I sound like a sponsor for it lol, but there's a reason why we use it. The main differences are I find that you have more play with it while applying as it takes longer to dry, like 'swooping' off edges. I find easi fill if you have a little edge and try to 'swoop' it away it will dig in, drag and you end up with another edge or scraping away parts of what you've put on because it's started to set, so gtec stuff is a lot more forgiving. Also, like I've said before, it's like a dream to sand and sanding is always the worst part lol.
If you get someone in you could be looking at quite a bit of money especially because ames tapers are few and far between now, i'm not sure if it's still taught solely as a trade on it's own. I'm lucky to have served my time with decorators who knew how to tape, although some not well but i'm quite pernickity and i've always had to put 110% in as i'm female and people never have much confidence in your ability until proven otherwise.
Do myself out a job at this rate but I'm sick of seeing shoddy advice from trades on here.
firstofficer02/09/2019 19:51

Can this be used to bake cakes ?Kindest regards


No friends?

Kindest regards
Ideal if you like to swear a lot and do things twice or three times before going back to the shop and buy proper filler (Toupret)
kkms02/09/2019 12:25

Waste of money, unless you plan on using the whole tub within a certain …Waste of money, unless you plan on using the whole tub within a certain time as any remaining filler in the tub will go hard and be unusable.Better of getting a box of powdered pollifilla and mixing it yourself as and when needed, as its powdered stays good for years. Used some myself yesterday to fill some big screw holes top of a window recess with powdered pollifila I bought about 5 years ago from poundstretcher for a couple of quid.


No it doesn't, if sealed properly.

I've just checked in my garage and I have a tub with an expiry of 26/06/16 and it is fine.

It's actually reminded me of a job I need to do!
Cloeeez03/09/2019 04:03

Ahaha no, unfortunately i'm in Glasgow and there can be a huge gap between …Ahaha no, unfortunately i'm in Glasgow and there can be a huge gap between 'how things are done' between England and Scotland for some reason.I'd try looking specifically for an ames taper or decorator who does taping. Last time I saw a plasterer attempt ames taping it ended up with a decorator having to go look at it to fix it and saying it will have to be plastered out now instead, it was that badly done. It's one of my more favourite things to do as there's a knack to doing it.I'm gonna assume you mean PVA not PVC and I NEVER use PVA for anything. Hate the stuff. Plasterers always recommend to customers to PVA freshly plastered walls for the painter and it's the worst advice you can give anyone.I wish you luck with your tapes but if you do have the time and you're happy with your standard I would really just attempt it yourself. As long as you cover the tape enough and don't leave thick edges which are impossible/a pain to sand flush then you're doing ok. 3 coats though not loads! I do recommend that for the final coat (3rd) using something like the GTEC stuff instead. I sound like a sponsor for it lol, but there's a reason why we use it. The main differences are I find that you have more play with it while applying as it takes longer to dry, like 'swooping' off edges. I find easi fill if you have a little edge and try to 'swoop' it away it will dig in, drag and you end up with another edge or scraping away parts of what you've put on because it's started to set, so gtec stuff is a lot more forgiving. Also, like I've said before, it's like a dream to sand and sanding is always the worst part lol.If you get someone in you could be looking at quite a bit of money especially because ames tapers are few and far between now, i'm not sure if it's still taught solely as a trade on it's own. I'm lucky to have served my time with decorators who knew how to tape, although some not well but i'm quite pernickity and i've always had to put 110% in as i'm female and people never have much confidence in your ability until proven otherwise.Do myself out a job at this rate but I'm sick of seeing shoddy advice from trades on here.


My builder said pva the wall so he can tile it. I googled then went out and bought sika SBR+
jimmy200703/09/2019 11:48

Ideal if you like to swear a lot and do things twice or three times before …Ideal if you like to swear a lot and do things twice or three times before going back to the shop and buy proper filler (Toupret)


And stuff that you mix yourself. They work so much better
montana7803/09/2019 13:46

My builder said pva the wall so he can tile it. I googled then went out …My builder said pva the wall so he can tile it. I googled then went out and bought sika SBR+


I don't know anything about tiling but you do not put PVA onto a surface you are going to paint. PVA is basically glue.
You know those glues you used to get in primary school and it was like a layer of skin on your fingers and you pulled it off? Yeah that's basically what PVA is like ontop of a wall. So imagine putting paint over that.
I had to fix a bathroom ceiling the other week (black damp), whole bathroom had been plastered before. scraped away a little bit of paint that was flaking and it turned into me scraping off 1m2 patches at a time, clean off like wallpaper exposing the plaster underneath, not a bit of paint to be seen leftover, whole room.
Asked her what she used as this is a common problem using oilbased undercoat over bare plaster also. 'Just emulsion my son did it'
I'm standing there dumbfounded then she said 'Oh wait he PVA'd it before he painted it as the plasterer recommended it'
Penny dropped.
Plasterers who recommended anyone to PVA a wall before emulsioning do NOT know what they are talking about and should stick to plastering not painting.
Anyway, tiles, ya, don't know lol.
Cloeeez03/09/2019 04:03

Ahaha no, unfortunately i'm in Glasgow and there can be a huge gap between …Ahaha no, unfortunately i'm in Glasgow and there can be a huge gap between 'how things are done' between England and Scotland for some reason.I'd try looking specifically for an ames taper or decorator who does taping. Last time I saw a plasterer attempt ames taping it ended up with a decorator having to go look at it to fix it and saying it will have to be plastered out now instead, it was that badly done. It's one of my more favourite things to do as there's a knack to doing it.I'm gonna assume you mean PVA not PVC and I NEVER use PVA for anything. Hate the stuff. Plasterers always recommend to customers to PVA freshly plastered walls for the painter and it's the worst advice you can give anyone.I wish you luck with your tapes but if you do have the time and you're happy with your standard I would really just attempt it yourself. As long as you cover the tape enough and don't leave thick edges which are impossible/a pain to sand flush then you're doing ok. 3 coats though not loads! I do recommend that for the final coat (3rd) using something like the GTEC stuff instead. I sound like a sponsor for it lol, but there's a reason why we use it. The main differences are I find that you have more play with it while applying as it takes longer to dry, like 'swooping' off edges. I find easi fill if you have a little edge and try to 'swoop' it away it will dig in, drag and you end up with another edge or scraping away parts of what you've put on because it's started to set, so gtec stuff is a lot more forgiving. Also, like I've said before, it's like a dream to sand and sanding is always the worst part lol.If you get someone in you could be looking at quite a bit of money especially because ames tapers are few and far between now, i'm not sure if it's still taught solely as a trade on it's own. I'm lucky to have served my time with decorators who knew how to tape, although some not well but i'm quite pernickity and i've always had to put 110% in as i'm female and people never have much confidence in your ability until proven otherwise.Do myself out a job at this rate but I'm sick of seeing shoddy advice from trades on here.


Ah yes, PVA haha. But yeah I hear you, I think people use it because it dries quickly and provides a nice tack for the next coat. But it makes no sense to use as it won't let it breathe to dry out underneath properly. I'm an amateur but that still seems obvious lol. Also where they've used it on some tapes in our house, I started to see a yellowish discolouration coming through after a couple of months. I'm pretty sure that must be the PVA as they didn't use anything oil based.

Thanks again for the advice. I think you've swung my view around 180 again, I might as well plod on with the tapes and hopefully I'll get better and quicker at it each time. It's just too difficult to find someone that does a decent job these days - everyone says yes to the jobs as they want the money, even if they don't have proper experience of taping!

Whilst I have your ear - what primer would you recommend after taping? That was one of the reasons it took me so long last time - I was worried about the primer not letting it dry out properly. Because I didn't just do the tapes, I also filled in some holes from the sparky, some were about 30mm deep, which I thought was too deep for Easi Fill (as it tends to sink in a bit right?), so I did bonding plaster first, but I was still left with 5-6mm of Easi Fill, which I guess is quite a lot.

So I left that to dry out a couple of days and then did 2 or 3 thin coats of Bulls Eye 123. Is that any good on top of jointing compound?

I wish there was some way on here I could send you a drink for this advice - an Irn Bru I assume
Edited by: "edanfalls" 3rd Sep 2019
edanfalls03/09/2019 20:17

Ah yes, PVA haha. But yeah I hear you, I think people use it because it …Ah yes, PVA haha. But yeah I hear you, I think people use it because it dries quickly and provides a nice tack for the next coat. But it makes no sense to use as it won't let it breathe to dry out underneath properly. I'm an amateur but that still seems obvious lol. Also where they've used it on some tapes in our house, I started to see a yellowish discolouration coming through after a couple of months. I'm pretty sure that must be the PVA as they didn't use anything oil based.Thanks again for the advice. I think you've swung my view around 180 again, I might as well plod on with the tapes and hopefully I'll get better and quicker at it each time. It's just too difficult to find someone that does a decent job these days - everyone says yes to the jobs as they want the money, even if they don't have proper experience of taping!Whilst I have your ear - what primer would you recommend after taping? That was one of the reasons it took me so long last time - I was worried about the primer not letting it dry out properly. Because I didn't just do the tapes, I also filled in some holes from the sparky, some were about 30mm deep, which I thought was too deep for Easi Fill (as it tends to sink in a bit right?), so I did bonding plaster first, but I was still left with 5-6mm of Easi Fill, which I guess is quite a lot.So I left that to dry out a couple of days and then did 2 or 3 thin coats of Bulls Eye 123. Is that any good on top of jointing compound?I wish there was some way on here I could send you a drink for this advice - an Irn Bru I assume


Any taping job I have done - after sanding - I have just coated it out with matt emulsion afterwards to seal it. Normally the full wall.
Yellow marks tend to swing to water marks or nicotine stains. Both of which would need an oilbased coating over to stop it bleeding through - this is a final fix for nicotine but a cover up for watermarks unless the leak is fixed beforehand.
Assuming you don't smoke, water marks appear through leaks somewhere which is another problem in itself. What tapes are you seeing the yellow marks? Is it by chance ones that are on external walls or ones on ceilings on the floor under the roof aka bedrooms?
This is giving me alarm bells in my head because I work in properties which are mostly 1960 - present and I've only seen popped tapes and yellow marks with properties that have been flooded out (like upstairs bathroom or kitchen sink would effect downstairs room and pop tapes), have a leak somewhere, or places that have a lot of movement.
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