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Shell Helix HX8 ECT 5W-40 - 5Ltr Engine Oil £16.83 delivered with code @ Carparts4less
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Shell Helix HX8 ECT 5W-40 - 5Ltr Engine Oil £16.83 delivered with code @ Carparts4less

£16.83£21.0420%CarParts4Less Deals
Expert (Beta)46
Posted 15th Feb

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Good price for a decent engine oil.

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Shell Helix HX8 ECT 5W-40 - 5LtrShell Helix HX8 ECT uses advanced emissions-compatible technology that helps to keep diesel particulate filters clean to help maintain engine performance

  • API SNACEA C3
  • MB-Approval 229.31, 229.51BMW LL-04GM dexos2 License No. D20142GH014Renault RN 0700, 0710
  • Fully synthetic motor oil
  • Wear protection:40% better than the industry standard**Compared with ACEA C3 specification
  • Faster flow:30% faster flow so it can reach critical engine parts faster for easier starting and quicker warm up**Compared with ACEA C3 specification
  • Corrosion protection:60% better corrosion protection**Compared to API SN specification
  • Viscosity control:Designed to deliver excellent shear stability to help maintain oil viscosity and engine protection
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Just a word from someone who's been there and done that...

EVERY SINGLE OIL on the market can be described using this 'x % better than the spec' marketing blather! Running & passing the engine tests you need to meet any given oil spec is a very inexact & eye-wateringly expensive science. As a consequence, every oil is to some degree 'over-formulated' so that (hopefully) you pass with some margin to spare, on the first go, rather than the 100th.

I'm not saying this is a bad oil but neither is it the super-duper, technically superior oil that the blurb implies.
Edited by: "Joe90_guy" 15th Feb
£15.49 using code 5ALXRW5 at EuroCarParts

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46 Comments
Nice one
Just a word from someone who's been there and done that...

EVERY SINGLE OIL on the market can be described using this 'x % better than the spec' marketing blather! Running & passing the engine tests you need to meet any given oil spec is a very inexact & eye-wateringly expensive science. As a consequence, every oil is to some degree 'over-formulated' so that (hopefully) you pass with some margin to spare, on the first go, rather than the 100th.

I'm not saying this is a bad oil but neither is it the super-duper, technically superior oil that the blurb implies.
Edited by: "Joe90_guy" 15th Feb
Would this be ok for my sprogs 2011 Corsa Ecoflex 1.0 ?

Websites seem to direct me to 5w30 but other sources indicate that 5w40 would be ok as well!

Confused.
Heat, been waiting for a decent oil deal. Cheers OP
Tomb16/02/2020 05:10

Would this be ok for my sprogs 2011 Corsa Ecoflex 1.0 ?Websites seem to …Would this be ok for my sprogs 2011 Corsa Ecoflex 1.0 ?Websites seem to direct me to 5w30 but other sources indicate that 5w40 would be ok as well!Confused.


These days, there's almost no difference between a 5W30 & 5W40 in terms of engine wear. This is taken care of by the additives in the oil which will very likely be the same. Also, for a nine year old car, you really shouldn't be worrying about wear. Any metal that was going to go will have already gone!

The only real difference between the two oils is their fuel economy performance. The difference will be small but the 5W30 will yield better mpg than the 5W40. TBH, a lot the world has long moved on even from 5W30 with 0W20/5W20 taking over & 0W16 now becoming commonplace.
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 08:15

These days, there's almost no difference between a 5W30 & 5W40 in terms of …These days, there's almost no difference between a 5W30 & 5W40 in terms of engine wear. This is taken care of by the additives in the oil which will very likely be the same. Also, for a nine year old car, you really shouldn't be worrying about wear. Any metal that was going to go will have already gone!The only real difference between the two oils is their fuel economy performance. The difference will be small but the 5W30 will yield better mpg than the 5W40. TBH, a lot the world has long moved on even from 5W30 with 0W20/5W20 taking over & 0W16 now becoming commonplace.


I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of oil to use or do I use any oil as long as it is 5w30?
I see so many different kinds of 5w30 and no sure what is the difference
Edited by: "AdelRawas" 16th Feb
AdelRawas16/02/2020 11:37

I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of …I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of oil to use or do I use any oil as long as it is 5w30?I see so many different kinds of 5w30 and no sure what is the difference


Virtually all passenger car oils sold in Europe (yes, we are still in Europe!) are formulated as 'dual-use' oils; that is to say they're designed to be used in BOTH gasoline & diesel engines (note this doesn't apply to oils for trucks & buses which are uniquely designed for Diesel engines).

As such any oil will probably suffice for your Megane. That said, I'd still look for a 5W30 oil which meets ACEA C3 as a minimum. All the various OEM specs tend to have a passing C3 data set at their core & should be seen as minor, rather than major differences over the norm.

Hope this helps.
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 12:11

Virtually all passenger car oils sold in Europe (yes, we are still in …Virtually all passenger car oils sold in Europe (yes, we are still in Europe!) are formulated as 'dual-use' oils; that is to say they're designed to be used in BOTH gasoline & diesel engines (note this doesn't apply to oils for trucks & buses which are uniquely designed for Diesel engines).As such any oil will probably suffice for your Megane. That said, I'd still look for a 5W30 oil which meets ACEA C3 as a minimum. All the various OEM specs tend to have a passing C3 data set at their core & should be seen as minor, rather than major differences over the norm.Hope this helps.


So basically this one in this post is good to keep for the occasional top up?
Many thanks for taking the time in replying.
Hi, anyone know if this is LL01 spec too?

Edit yes it is LL04.
Edited by: "jr007" 16th Feb
AdelRawas16/02/2020 12:46

So basically this one in this post is good to keep for the occasional top …So basically this one in this post is good to keep for the occasional top up?Many thanks for taking the time in replying.

Yes. It's arguably more of a gasoline oil than a diesel oil but it will work just fine.
Dont think you can use in diesel with a DPF (thats most diesels made in the 12 years) need low ash oil for them
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 12:11

Virtually all passenger car oils sold in Europe (yes, we are still in …Virtually all passenger car oils sold in Europe (yes, we are still in Europe!) are formulated as 'dual-use' oils; that is to say they're designed to be used in BOTH gasoline & diesel engines (note this doesn't apply to oils for trucks & buses which are uniquely designed for Diesel engines).As such any oil will probably suffice for your Megane. That said, I'd still look for a 5W30 oil which meets ACEA C3 as a minimum. All the various OEM specs tend to have a passing C3 data set at their core & should be seen as minor, rather than major differences over the norm.Hope this helps.


I understand the 5W30 bit but what does the ACEA C3 bit mean? Is ACEA A3 better or worse? Or just different in some other way? Quite confusing to know when your manual is very specific and you have no idea what that bit means or whether you can substitute it for something else if the exact one your manual advises is not available when buying.
And I’m buying 150ml for bicycle chain for 5£ silly me
snoopy10416/02/2020 13:11

I understand the 5W30 bit but what does the ACEA C3 bit mean? Is ACEA A3 …I understand the 5W30 bit but what does the ACEA C3 bit mean? Is ACEA A3 better or worse? Or just different in some other way? Quite confusing to know when your manual is very specific and you have no idea what that bit means or whether you can substitute it for something else if the exact one your manual advises is not available when buying.


Yes. It's horribly confusing & TBH, unnecessarily so.

When I first got into the game, ACEA had separate 'A' (gasoline) & 'B' (diesel) specifications. These were tiered so you had A2 & A3 and B2 & B3 (& later B4) where the high number denoted a better oil. You also had A1 & B1 (& later A5 & B5) oils but these were a sop to the US OEMs like Ford who had a liking for low viscosity oils. The system was relatively simple.

The ACEA 'C' oils came in around 2005 & I never liked them. They were driven by OEMs concerns over ash blockage of Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs). The idea was that if you restricted the amount Sulphur, Ash & Phosphorus in an oil, you could stop DPFs plugging up. The problem is that so-called Low SAPs oils are not NO SAPs oils & history has shown that DPFs still plug up! It also made no sense to, from the outset, make all the C oils dual-use to fix what was solely a diesel problem. And to compound the problem, in their infinite wisdom, ACEA deliberately 'forced up' the ash levels of A/B oils to stop them being used in modern diesels!

It's hard today to sensibly comment on whether an oil is good or bad or better or best. If you have a diesel with a DPF use a lower ash 'C' oil but don't expect it to make your life trouble-free. If you have a gasoline engined car, almost anything goes. What I would say is that if, like me, you care for your kids & grandkids, use the lowest viscosity oil you feel comfortable with & do your bit to combat climate change. I use a 0W20 & regularly get 70 mpg.
Edited by: "Joe90_guy" 16th Feb
yam079116/02/2020 13:07

Dont think you can use in diesel with a DPF (thats most diesels made in …Dont think you can use in diesel with a DPF (thats most diesels made in the 12 years) need low ash oil for them


I thought that the C3 was the low ash spec for DPF diesels ???
AdelRawas16/02/2020 11:37

I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of …I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of oil to use or do I use any oil as long as it is 5w30?I see so many different kinds of 5w30 and no sure what is the difference


I worked in a garage where most cars for sale would be filled with 5w30 trade tec, with no spec on the barrel

Apart from the odd petrol fiats where I would put 5w40 in

We never had anyone come back with a wrecked engine due to this

We did have people come back with wrecked engines, but they had been oil starved
AdelRawas16/02/2020 11:37

I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of …I have a 2011 disel renault megane, do I have to worry about what kind of oil to use or do I use any oil as long as it is 5w30?I see so many different kinds of 5w30 and no sure what is the difference


Depends if it’s DPF. Prob needs to be 5w30 C4 if it is DPF or 5w40 if not DPF.
£15.49 using code 5ALXRW5 at EuroCarParts

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Code HONEY22 takes it down to £16.41
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This might help with few questions in the post
ansarch16/02/2020 15:47

[Image] This might help with few questions in the post


In many respects, charts like this are decades past their sell-by date.

Here in the UK, in the depths of our winters, we're at worst, a '15W' market. However 0W, 5W & 10W oils all have a role to play in terms of fuel economy improvement.

Also today, hot outside temperature doesn't necessarily translate to hotter oil temperatures. Most oils will only ever at most hit 100°C (as regulated by your water coolant system) at which point 20 & 30 grade oils are more than adequate.
Edited by: "Joe90_guy" 16th Feb
gimba16/02/2020 15:15

£15.49 using code 5ALXRW5 at EuroCarParts[Image]


5ALXRW5 - The promotion entered is invalid or has expired
Its for new customers first orders
£17.04 if you want to get it sooner from a local Euro car parts
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pimpadron16/02/2020 16:44

5ALXRW5 - The promotion entered is invalid or has expired


39921543-3bh6C.jpgstill working, just simply don't log into an account
AbuG16/02/2020 17:05

Its for new customers first orders


Just don't log into an account
rik22016/02/2020 14:13

Depends if it’s DPF. Prob needs to be 5w30 C4 if it is DPF or 5w40 if not D …Depends if it’s DPF. Prob needs to be 5w30 C4 if it is DPF or 5w40 if not DPF.


I thought all cars after 2009 must have a dpf?
AdelRawas16/02/2020 19:02

I thought all cars after 2009 must have a dpf?


You're correct. Your Megane will definitely have a DPF & because of MOT changes, you can't now simply cut out a blocked filter element & rejig the engine EPC to 'pretend' it's still there, so you're stuck with it.

You could use an ACEA C4 oil in your diesel engine (as opposed to a C3 oil) but my professional opinion, for what it's worth, is you should definitely NOT do this!

ACEA C4 oils contain a much lower level over-based metallic detergent & lower levels of ZDDP than C3 oils which is why their sulphated ash contents are so much lower (0.5% max vs 0.8% max). This flies in the face of 70 years of automotive experience which says that these additives ARE necessary. To expediently fix a DPF problem, simply by removing 'inconvenient' stuff (that would ordinarily be considered essential) is in my mind reckless in the extreme! Nor will it truly 'fix' the problem. It will just push back the point at which the filter plugs.

Moral of this story is stick to C3.
Edited by: "Joe90_guy" 16th Feb
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 19:37

You're correct. Your Megane will definitely have a DPF & because of MOT …You're correct. Your Megane will definitely have a DPF & because of MOT changes, you can't now simply cut out a blocked filter element & rejig the engine EPC to 'pretend' it's still there, so you're stuck with it.You could use an ACEA C4 oil in your diesel engine (as opposed to a C3 oil) but my professional opinion, for what it's worth, is you should definitely NOT do this! ACEA C4 oils contain a much lower level over-based metallic detergent & lower levels of ZDDP than C3 oils which is why their sulphated ash contents are so much lower (0.5% max vs 0.8% max). This flies in the face of 70 years of automotive experience which says that these additives ARE necessary. To expediently fix a DPF problem, simply by removing 'inconvenient' stuff (that would ordinarily be considered essential) is in my mind reckless in the extreme! Nor will it truly 'fix' the problem. It will just push back the point at which the filter plugs.Moral of this story is stick to C3.


Wow that was very useful.
So ill stick with 5w30 C3 then. Cheers mate
AdelRawas16/02/2020 12:46

So basically this one in this post is good to keep for the occasional top …So basically this one in this post is good to keep for the occasional top up?Many thanks for taking the time in replying.


Yup, get the cheapest oil you can at the correct grade (or close to it) and you’ll be fine.

Change every 12-18 months for average miles.
AdelRawas16/02/2020 19:02

I thought all cars after 2009 must have a dpf?


My mate has a 2010 Megane and I’m 99% sure it doesn’t have a DPF
Tomb16/02/2020 05:10

Would this be ok for my sprogs 2011 Corsa Ecoflex 1.0 ?Websites seem to …Would this be ok for my sprogs 2011 Corsa Ecoflex 1.0 ?Websites seem to direct me to 5w30 but other sources indicate that 5w40 would be ok as well!Confused.


5w/30 is usually for longer service intervals. If the car is well looked after, serviced regularly and doesn't burn or drop oil then I'd go 5w/30 for a bit of peace of mind. But some would argue you're better off using a heavier weighted oil and changing it more regularly. Both would do the job nicely. This oil is very good, more than adequate for a Corsa.
how is this hotter than the previous 3 deals within the last month that were all cheaper?

oh yeah its a PEP, never mind
Edited by: "adamspencer95" 17th Feb
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 19:37

You're correct. Your Megane will definitely have a DPF & because of MOT …You're correct. Your Megane will definitely have a DPF & because of MOT changes, you can't now simply cut out a blocked filter element & rejig the engine EPC to 'pretend' it's still there, so you're stuck with it.You could use an ACEA C4 oil in your diesel engine (as opposed to a C3 oil) but my professional opinion, for what it's worth, is you should definitely NOT do this! ACEA C4 oils contain a much lower level over-based metallic detergent & lower levels of ZDDP than C3 oils which is why their sulphated ash contents are so much lower (0.5% max vs 0.8% max). This flies in the face of 70 years of automotive experience which says that these additives ARE necessary. To expediently fix a DPF problem, simply by removing 'inconvenient' stuff (that would ordinarily be considered essential) is in my mind reckless in the extreme! Nor will it truly 'fix' the problem. It will just push back the point at which the filter plugs.Moral of this story is stick to C3.


Hello Joe90_guy,

Would you recommend 5W/30 C4 or 5W/30 C3 for a 2016 1.6Diesel Qashqai? Manual and websites (Halford etc) says to use C4. C3 however is easy to buy at supermarkets, while C4 seems only available from online shops.

Many thanks, ppyim
ppyim18/02/2020 14:02

Hello Joe90_guy, Would you recommend 5W/30 C4 or 5W/30 C3 for a 2016 …Hello Joe90_guy, Would you recommend 5W/30 C4 or 5W/30 C3 for a 2016 1.6Diesel Qashqai? Manual and websites (Halford etc) says to use C4. C3 however is easy to buy at supermarkets, while C4 seems only available from online shops. Many thanks, ppyim


C3 every time for the reasons outlined in my above post.
Thanks ordered from Euro car parts for £15.49....
Joe90_guy16/02/2020 16:01

In many respects, charts like this are decades past their sell-by …In many respects, charts like this are decades past their sell-by date.Here in the UK, in the depths of our winters, we're at worst, a '15W' market. However 0W, 5W & 10W oils all have a role to play in terms of fuel economy improvement.Also today, hot outside temperature doesn't necessarily translate to hotter oil temperatures. Most oils will only ever at most hit 100°C (as regulated by your water coolant system) at which point 20 & 30 grade oils are more than adequate.


Oils see massive temperatures and will easily be hitting 200-300oC for short periods in localised parts of your engine such as turbo bearings or under piston crowns. If you don't meet the correct manufacturer speck you cannot assure yourself that you will have an oil that offers the necessary sludge protection that otherwise has wrecked various Ford, Vauxhall and VAG engines affected by "black death"; this likely to make a reappearance given the new generation of small capacity high-output engines that are commonplace where owners seem to feel they can just stick any oil in as long as it meets the correct viscosity, nevermind HTHS or emission system criteria.
The winter grade also isn't the determinant for economy and will have a negligible effect as this is the function of the warm viscosity rating.
20 (warm) grade oils should only ever be used in engines designed for such light oil otherwise you will likely get excessive oil consumption and increased wear. There's also plenty of examples of engines showing sludge build up (such as the 1.0 Ford ecoboost engine) when running on manufacturer recommended 5W20 oil indicating that the manufacturer recommendation was solely for emissions/economy mandates. All tuners recommend running 5W30 on these engines.
Maggy123418/02/2020 17:25

Oils see massive temperatures and will easily be hitting 200-300oC for …Oils see massive temperatures and will easily be hitting 200-300oC for short periods in localised parts of your engine such as turbo bearings or under piston crowns. If you don't meet the correct manufacturer speck you cannot assure yourself that you will have an oil that offers the necessary sludge protection that otherwise has wrecked various Ford, Vauxhall and VAG engines affected by "black death"; this likely to make a reappearance given the new generation of small capacity high-output engines that are commonplace where owners seem to feel they can just stick any oil in as long as it meets the correct viscosity, nevermind HTHS or emission system criteria.The winter grade also isn't the determinant for economy and will have a negligible effect as this is the function of the warm viscosity rating.20 (warm) grade oils should only ever be used in engines designed for such light oil otherwise you will likely get excessive oil consumption and increased wear. There's also plenty of examples of engines showing sludge build up (such as the 1.0 Ford ecoboost engine) when running on manufacturer recommended 5W20 oil indicating that the manufacturer recommendation was solely for emissions/economy mandates. All tuners recommend running 5W30 on these engines.


Come back & talk to me when you've designed & sold the equivalent of a billion litres a year of oil worldwide. When you've done that, I might give your little pet, unsubstantiated theories credence.
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