Triton Seville 9.5kW Electric Shower £42.41 Del @ Amazon
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Triton Seville 9.5kW Electric Shower £42.41 Del @ Amazon

29
Found 22nd Oct
Dispatched from and sold by Amazon

  • Multiple Cable & Water Entry Points for Replacement
  • Rotary Temperature Control
  • Rotary Power Control: Cold, Eco, High
  • Easy Clean Shower Head - Single Spray Pattern
  • 2 year full parts & labour guarantee (UK only - Product not suitable for use outside of the UK)

Top comments

morrig3 h, 30 m ago

Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get …Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get away with 6 mm as some one on Screwfix says... "Just placed a clamp meter on my 9.5kw shower - max amp reading was 41amps. This is wired in 6mm with a 32amp breaker used daily for 2 and a half years never tripped once. Does this answer you question."


9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity of 6mm^2 cable in an insulated wall (34A), so 10mm^2 cable is certainly required in this case. A 32A MCB probably will not trip until well over its rated value - but this is a bad thing, not a good thing - the cables are still getting too hot (the design operating temperature for most is 70C, so 6mm^2 will be running hotter than this - if people realised they had a piece of copper wire at over 100C inside their plaster walls they might not be so blasé).
The cable needs to be changed to 10mm^2 with a B40 MCB, and it must be RCD protected. Changing the cable is notifiable work and needs to be done under Part P by an electrician.
I suspect someone will say that none of this is necessary: any old bit of cable that has been there since 1965 will do, there is no need for an electrician to fit and test it, the existing Bakelite CU with no back and cartridge fuses is adequate and that RCDs are for wimps (someone always says those things on these pages), but they are wrong.
Edited by: "othen" 22nd Oct

fishmaster11 m ago

I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the …I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the house a few years ago. Well they're a pile of crap, either too hot or too cold and the outside temperature has an effect on the temperature, so you can't just leave it at a preset temperature, always having to mess about with it. I hate them both as much as a person can hate an inanimate object.


What do you expect, of course the temperature of the water coming in means you can't leave any shower on the same setting all year round!

These 9.5kW showers are always about £40-£50, so this is nothing special.
29 Comments

great deal looking for new shower !

These 9.5kW showers are always about £40-£50, so this is nothing special.

othen2 h, 9 m ago

These 9.5kW showers are always about £40-£50, so this is nothing special.


This deal is £7.59 less than £50. It's still a deal. And cheapest price on Camel.
May have to buy in preparation for my existing Triton to break 1 week after warranty expires; I'm sure these are designed to break like that.

I seen somewhere i need to upgrade the cable as only run similar 8 KW shower.cant fault these for the money,the names changed from Madrid but looks same shower had 2 before over 12 years if it goes wrong no hassles for plumber straight swap.

Heat! That’s frustrating, I bought this for £48 last week from amazon warehouse. Good basic shower, I wish we’d changed our previous Triton earlier - didn’t realise how bad it was until we fitted this.

I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the house a few years ago. Well they're a pile of crap, either too hot or too cold and the outside temperature has an effect on the temperature, so you can't just leave it at a preset temperature, always having to mess about with it. I hate them both as much as a person can hate an inanimate object.

fishmaster8 m ago

I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the …I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the house a few years ago. Well they're a pile of crap, either too hot or too cold and the outside temperature has an effect on the temperature, so you can't just leave it at a preset temperature, always having to mess about with it. I hate them both as much as a person can hate an inanimate object.


I have used this Triton model, in various named versions but the same interiror works (Catalona, Seville, and Enrich) for 20 years now and they are just fine. They don't last for very long, although they do get a lot of use; but are cheap and easy to replace.
Edited by: "nihcaj" 22nd Oct

fishmaster11 m ago

I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the …I have 2 X Triton 8.5KW showers when I had both bathrooms done in the house a few years ago. Well they're a pile of crap, either too hot or too cold and the outside temperature has an effect on the temperature, so you can't just leave it at a preset temperature, always having to mess about with it. I hate them both as much as a person can hate an inanimate object.


What do you expect, of course the temperature of the water coming in means you can't leave any shower on the same setting all year round!

Cool nickname

sandstone12 h, 5 m ago

I seen somewhere i need to upgrade the cable as only run similar 8 KW …I seen somewhere i need to upgrade the cable as only run similar 8 KW shower.cant fault these for the money,the names changed from Madrid but looks same shower had 2 before over 12 years if it goes wrong no hassles for plumber straight swap.



Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get away with 6 mm as some one on Screwfix says...

"Just placed a clamp meter on my 9.5kw shower - max amp reading was 41amps.

This is wired in 6mm with a 32amp breaker used daily for 2 and a half years never tripped once.

Does this answer you question."
Edited by: "morrig" 22nd Oct

muffboy4 h, 20 m ago

What do you expect, of course the temperature of the water coming in means …What do you expect, of course the temperature of the water coming in means you can't leave any shower on the same setting all year round!



Quite so! - the incoming water temp varies quite a lot and these electric showers need longer to heat up colder water so their pressure is less. A reason why I'd only ever use an electric shower if absolutely no other option exists, or if it was for someone I disliked.

Not to mention the worries about these in some small bed and breakfast or hotel where someone unqualified has installed them and you've no idea if that 40amp breaker/fuse wire/ nail will protect you if it all goes horribly wrong!
Edited by: "spannerzone" 22nd Oct

superjack5 h, 12 m ago

Heat! That’s frustrating, I bought this for £48 last week from amazon wa …Heat! That’s frustrating, I bought this for £48 last week from amazon warehouse. Good basic shower, I wish we’d changed our previous Triton earlier - didn’t realise how bad it was until we fitted this.


Sorry to hear that, I am looking for one on the market too, would you mind telling us which model you use before? Thanks

morrig3 h, 14 m ago

Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get …Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get away with 6 mm as some one on Screwfix says... "Just placed a clamp meter on my 9.5kw shower - max amp reading was 41amps. This is wired in 6mm with a 32amp breaker used daily for 2 and a half years never tripped once. Does this answer you question."


sorry I have a bit silly question (sorry as I have small budget for a shower installation and I always had bad repairer people and got worst outcome so very jumpy to let do another project).

My main circuit box is downstairs so if I have to put a new shower over 9.5Kw at the bathroom upstairs, would I have to do a re-wire nearly the whole house? Thanks

morrig3 h, 30 m ago

Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get …Generally 10 mm cable is to be used, mighty thick stuff, but should get away with 6 mm as some one on Screwfix says... "Just placed a clamp meter on my 9.5kw shower - max amp reading was 41amps. This is wired in 6mm with a 32amp breaker used daily for 2 and a half years never tripped once. Does this answer you question."


9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity of 6mm^2 cable in an insulated wall (34A), so 10mm^2 cable is certainly required in this case. A 32A MCB probably will not trip until well over its rated value - but this is a bad thing, not a good thing - the cables are still getting too hot (the design operating temperature for most is 70C, so 6mm^2 will be running hotter than this - if people realised they had a piece of copper wire at over 100C inside their plaster walls they might not be so blasé).
The cable needs to be changed to 10mm^2 with a B40 MCB, and it must be RCD protected. Changing the cable is notifiable work and needs to be done under Part P by an electrician.
I suspect someone will say that none of this is necessary: any old bit of cable that has been there since 1965 will do, there is no need for an electrician to fit and test it, the existing Bakelite CU with no back and cartridge fuses is adequate and that RCDs are for wimps (someone always says those things on these pages), but they are wrong.
Edited by: "othen" 22nd Oct

dealchaser88831 m ago

Sorry to hear that, I am looking for one on the market too, would you mind …Sorry to hear that, I am looking for one on the market too, would you mind telling us which model you use before? Thanks


We had a triton jade 2, so I got another triton with the hope of it just being a straight swap. Not quite the case, as the electrical point in the shower box was on the left hand side this time, and the cable didn’t stretch so it needed a bit more work than I wanted. However, once fitted it was much better and worth it.

superjack6 m ago

We had a triton jade 2, so I got another triton with the hope of it just …We had a triton jade 2, so I got another triton with the hope of it just being a straight swap. Not quite the case, as the electrical point in the shower box was on the left hand side this time, and the cable didn’t stretch so it needed a bit more work than I wanted. However, once fitted it was much better and worth it.



Thanks a lot

othen28 m ago

9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity …9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity of 6mm^2 cable in an insulated wall (34A), so 10mm^2 cable is certainly required in this case. A 32A MCB probably will not trip until well over its rated value - but this is a bad thing, not a good thing - the cables are still getting too hot (the design operating temperature for most is 70C, so 6mm^2 will be running hotter than this - if people realised they had a piece of copper wire at over 100C inside their plaster walls they might not be so blasé).The cable needs to be changed to 10mm^2 with a B40 MCB, and it must be RCD protected. Changing the cable is notifiable work and needs to be done under Part P by an electrician.I suspect someone will say that none of this is necessary: any old bit of cable that has been there since 1965 will do, there is no need for an electrician to fit and test it, the existing Bakelite CU with no back and cartridge fuses is adequate and that RCDs are for wimps (someone always says those things on these pages), but they are wrong.


Thanks your comment is very useful for me. Should I looking for an electrician or a plumber (in my case : install a new shower so a bit pipe work and new 10mm cable)?

My combined boiler just broken, I use it only for hot water. I have little budget, thusI am thinking a electric shower. But at the same time, I understanding they are not so good to keep the desired temperature especially during winter time and they broken easily. And it seems I also have to think about the installation fee etc.

When my boiler works (I have it over 10 years),we lovely hot shower.

Any advice what I should buy? I only need hot water for shower (small household 3 people)

dealchaser88849 m ago

sorry I have a bit silly question (sorry as I have small budget for a …sorry I have a bit silly question (sorry as I have small budget for a shower installation and I always had bad repairer people and got worst outcome so very jumpy to let do another project).My main circuit box is downstairs so if I have to put a new shower over 9.5Kw at the bathroom upstairs, would I have to do a re-wire nearly the whole house? Thanks


No, you will not have to re-wire the whole house (well, not for this reason anyway).
You will need a 10mm^2 cable (thick stuff - 4 times the area of the ring main circuit) running from a 40A MCB in the consumer unit to the shower, this will have to be protected inside the bathroom (probably by putting it through a cavity or inside conduit in a plastered wall). It must also be RCD protected. Because it will be a new circuit it is notifiable work (under Part P) to your local council, so you need an electrician with the right CPS membership.
It may be that you need a new CU if there is not a spare fuseway or it does not have RCD protection (there are ways around these issues, but it would probably be best to install a new metal CU if that is the case.
You do need an electrician to do all this, but it should not cost a fortune, a new CU (if you need one) should only be about £250 and if the shower is done at the same time the electrical work might only be about £100 plus redecorating. If you don't need a new CU then the cable and testing would probably be about £150 plus redecorating - but if is an older installation you should get a periodic examination done at the same time to make sure it is all safe.
I'm happy to give a bit more advice if you need some - but the main thing would be to find a good electrician you can trust and who will not overcharge - ask your friends to recommend someone locally, that is the best way.

dealchaser88811 m ago

Thanks your comment is very useful for me. Should I looking for an …Thanks your comment is very useful for me. Should I looking for an electrician or a plumber (in my case : install a new shower so a bit pipe work and new 10mm cable)?My combined boiler just broken, I use it only for hot water. I have little budget, thusI am thinking a electric shower. But at the same time, I understanding they are not so good to keep the desired temperature especially during winter time and they broken easily. And it seems I also have to think about the installation fee etc.When my boiler works (I have it over 10 years),we lovely hot shower. Any advice what I should buy? I only need hot water for shower (small household 3 people)


Our comments seem to have crossed in the post - have a look at what I wrote below and see if that answers your questions - if not do come back to me for some more advice.

othen17 m ago

No, you will not have to re-wire the whole house (well, not for this …No, you will not have to re-wire the whole house (well, not for this reason anyway).You will need a 10mm^2 cable (thick stuff - 4 times the area of the ring main circuit) running from a 40A MCB in the consumer unit to the shower, this will have to be protected inside the bathroom (probably by putting it through a cavity or inside conduit in a plastered wall). It must also be RCD protected. Because it will be a new circuit it is notifiable work (under Part P) to your local council, so you need an electrician with the right CPS membership.It may be that you need a new CU if there is not a spare fuseway or it does not have RCD protection (there are ways around these issues, but it would probably be best to install a new metal CU if that is the case.You do need an electrician to do all this, but it should not cost a fortune, a new CU (if you need one) should only be about £250 and if the shower is done at the same time the electrical work might only be about £100 plus redecorating. If you don't need a new CU then the cable and testing would probably be about £150 plus redecorating - but if is an older installation you should get a periodic examination done at the same time to make sure it is all safe.I'm happy to give a bit more advice if you need some - but the main thing would be to find a good electrician you can trust and who will not overcharge - ask your friends to recommend someone locally, that is the best way.


Thanks so much for your kind message, it really helps me a lot as I am really nervous and jumpy about new repair/ installation (get burn a lot from previous occasions). I know I have to do something but my mind just struck, not sure what to do.

I always have bad experiments with builder etc those people just take the money and do a half-done job. eg kitchen cabinet with cooker hood, I could not tell as it is sealed behind the canopy and then realize it is not fully function.They just tape (lazy they were as they don't bother to get the right length tube) the tube to the outside wall bracket. So after a while, the tape just lost its function. It make things worst as I have to take all the things down just to get it right. It takes more money, headache to sort things out.

To sum up, I am very appreciated for your kind help here.

othen15 m ago

Our comments seem to have crossed in the post - have a look at what I …Our comments seem to have crossed in the post - have a look at what I wrote below and see if that answers your questions - if not do come back to me for some more advice.


Hi, thanks a lot, sorry I do have some many questions and I really appreciated for all the kindness reply.

Looks OK..

I used to be sceptical about electric showers until my father-in-law pointed out something I hadn't considered - Do you still want to be able to have a shower if your combi boiler breaks, or the gas supply is interrupted?
I agree with what's already been said about the wiring though, must be miminum 10mm and on its own MCB.
The fuse size must be equal to or the nearest size above the kilowatt rating of the shower i.e.
7kW = 30/32amp mcb
7.5kW = 32amp mcb
8kW = 40amp mcb
8.5kW = 40amp mcb
9.5kw = 40/45amp mcb
10.5kW = 45/50amp mcb
see Triton site for more advice.

moneybag24 m ago

I used to be sceptical about electric showers until my father-in-law …I used to be sceptical about electric showers until my father-in-law pointed out something I hadn't considered - Do you still want to be able to have a shower if your combi boiler breaks, or the gas supply is interrupted?I agree with what's already been said about the wiring though, must be miminum 10mm and on its own MCB.The fuse size must be equal to or the nearest size above the kilowatt rating of the shower i.e.7kW = 30/32amp mcb7.5kW = 32amp mcb8kW = 40amp mcb8.5kW = 40amp mcb9.5kw = 40/45amp mcb10.5kW = 45/50amp mcbsee Triton site for more advice.

​I had this problem not to long ago, luckily I got showered at a relatives house for three days and used a kettle and sink to wash my face. The only reason I don't bother with electric showers is the water pressure is terrible. What size pipes does this one use?

othen5 h, 22 m ago

9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity …9.5 kW draws 43A at 220v, which is more than the current carrying capacity of 6mm^2 cable in an insulated wall (34A), so 10mm^2 cable is certainly required in this case. A 32A MCB probably will not trip until well over its rated value - but this is a bad thing, not a good thing - the cables are still getting too hot (the design operating temperature for most is 70C, so 6mm^2 will be running hotter than this - if people realised they had a piece of copper wire at over 100C inside their plaster walls they might not be so blasé).The cable needs to be changed to 10mm^2 with a B40 MCB, and it must be RCD protected. Changing the cable is notifiable work and needs to be done under Part P by an electrician.I suspect someone will say that none of this is necessary: any old bit of cable that has been there since 1965 will do, there is no need for an electrician to fit and test it, the existing Bakelite CU with no back and cartridge fuses is adequate and that RCDs are for wimps (someone always says those things on these pages), but they are wrong.


You speaketh perfect sense apart from the 220v, in the UK most households will almost definitely be supplied @ 240v which is less than 40A for a 9.5kw. That said, always best to err on the side of caution.

muffboy4 m ago

You speaketh perfect sense apart from the 220v, in the UK most households …You speaketh perfect sense apart from the 220v, in the UK most households will almost definitely be supplied @ 240v which is less than 40A for a 9.5kw. That said, always best to err on the side of caution.


I'm afraid you are wrong there: all UK households are supplied with 220v-240v harmonised voltage for single phase supplies, that means the power companies can legally provide power within that range of voltages. If course one has to take the lowest voltage (and hence the highest current) because that is what can happen - my calculation was nothing to do with erring on the side of caution.

othen25 m ago

I'm afraid you are wrong there: all UK households are supplied with …I'm afraid you are wrong there: all UK households are supplied with 220v-240v harmonised voltage for single phase supplies, that means the power companies can legally provide power within that range of voltages. If course one has to take the lowest voltage (and hence the highest current) because that is what can happen - my calculation was nothing to do with erring on the side of caution.


You and your mates and your neighbours and your work colleagues can check with a multimeter and I can almost guarantee you will all be getting supplied at 240v or 415v if on a 3 phase supply

uk voltages are 230 +10% or -6% so within 216.2volts - 253volts . Under normal conditions I have seen 257 volts which was reported to local DNO and lowest I have seen is 223 volts .

but when there's a phase down to a transformer I have seen it as low as 166v which drives electrical stuff mad.

muffboy11 h, 3 m ago

You and your mates and your neighbours and your work colleagues can check …You and your mates and your neighbours and your work colleagues can check with a multimeter and I can almost guarantee you will all be getting supplied at 240v or 415v if on a 3 phase supply


You don't understand.
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