Hi, I took a trip to bridgend which is 15 miles away, everything was fine and regular yearly service with 8k low ash oil change.
Its done 150k and been a champ, but when I was going home, about 5miles away I noticed that 3rd and 4th was not giving me any power but still driving fine.
Usually the car gave me tones of power on 3d and 4th and left other cars in the dust with the turbo, I dont drive it hard, but lots of city driving.
Anyway, I have no warning lights and will drive fine, but when the turbo wants to kick in I get no power, and if I put my foot down it gives a engine stutter which basically is telling me to stop and lay off the turbo as it feels like something is starving in the engine. (Which has a oil change with ford low DFP 5000miles ago)
My guy cant look at it until tuesday and have no other way of getting to work as I live no where near a train or bus stop, so he told me to take it easy and make sure I dont go above 3000rpm so the turbo does not kick in.
He seems to think it could be the turbo, but online are saying it maybe the injectors.
He said if its the turbo the car is scrap as you need to clean the whole engine/Lines as it gets coked up and need to replace all the lines or new engine and its not worth it for a 56 2.0 focus.
if I am having performance issues and the turbo is about to go, I would have thought there would be warning lights on my car?
Like I said, the car starts fine and drives ok, but no power on the turbo.
I dont have any DPF Issues as I drive quite a bit and the engine always gets nice and hot and I make sure I run it at higher RPM than I would a petrol because of the DPF. Also once every petrol fill I slam it in 4th 4000rpm and for about a mile I make sure it burns off all the garbage from my DPF.
The car had a full ford service up until 120,000miles, but now I just do a oil change and on the MOT make sure all the fluids ect are done.
Whats your thoughts, a turbo failure about to happen, or a clogged up injector?
If its a turbo, my guy says to scrap it because if he puts a new turbo in at about 300 - 400 it will fail again in a month or two due to the garage in the system which will clog it up again.
Love my car, and cant afford another as I am moving and need to spend 3500 on fees ect, but worried about driving 60 miles until tuesday before he can look at it.
Any suggestions would be useful if you know the Turbo TD engines.
Thanks all
Its done 150k and been a champ, but when I was going home, about 5miles away I noticed that 3rd and 4th was not giving me any power but still driving fine.
Usually the car gave me tones of power on 3d and 4th and left other cars in the dust with the turbo, I dont drive it hard, but lots of city driving.
Anyway, I have no warning lights and will drive fine, but when the turbo wants to kick in I get no power, and if I put my foot down it gives a engine stutter which basically is telling me to stop and lay off the turbo as it feels like something is starving in the engine. (Which has a oil change with ford low DFP 5000miles ago)
My guy cant look at it until tuesday and have no other way of getting to work as I live no where near a train or bus stop, so he told me to take it easy and make sure I dont go above 3000rpm so the turbo does not kick in.
He seems to think it could be the turbo, but online are saying it maybe the injectors.
He said if its the turbo the car is scrap as you need to clean the whole engine/Lines as it gets coked up and need to replace all the lines or new engine and its not worth it for a 56 2.0 focus.
if I am having performance issues and the turbo is about to go, I would have thought there would be warning lights on my car?
Like I said, the car starts fine and drives ok, but no power on the turbo.
I dont have any DPF Issues as I drive quite a bit and the engine always gets nice and hot and I make sure I run it at higher RPM than I would a petrol because of the DPF. Also once every petrol fill I slam it in 4th 4000rpm and for about a mile I make sure it burns off all the garbage from my DPF.
The car had a full ford service up until 120,000miles, but now I just do a oil change and on the MOT make sure all the fluids ect are done.
Whats your thoughts, a turbo failure about to happen, or a clogged up injector?
If its a turbo, my guy says to scrap it because if he puts a new turbo in at about 300 - 400 it will fail again in a month or two due to the garage in the system which will clog it up again.
Love my car, and cant afford another as I am moving and need to spend 3500 on fees ect, but worried about driving 60 miles until tuesday before he can look at it.
Any suggestions would be useful if you know the Turbo TD engines.
Thanks all
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26 Comments
sorted bywhen did you last change the fuel filter and air filter?
I'd expect a turbo problem or an injector issue to throw an error code.
You've got a dpf? is it failing to regenerate? reving etc isnt neccessarily going to do the job.
I'd put a code reader on it and see what you get.
Common reasons for dpf regen failing are all about the temps the exhaust and engine get to. so glow plugs, thermostats and egr should all be checked.
Other thing to consider is paying for a Terraclean flush (about £100 ish) to clear all the gunk out
If it is the turbo, i'd opt for a reconditioned unit than a new one and get a cheap garage to do it if you cant do it yourself.
just get it running cheaply with a recon turbo, and it should see 200k miles easily, especially if you give it a flush as well.
I find it strange that I get a stutter from the engine when the turbo wants to kick in, but no lights on my dash.
Need to sort my back lights out anyway lol, only my window brake light works, but the sides dont, but hey thats the least of my problems.
He offered me a 1.4 16v 2004 clio for 600.00 if I am stuck, but I need to pay 3500 as need to move in the next 2 weeks, so really cant afford 600.00 as I love my car, its been solid until now.
I have no issues driving it, but has no kick from the turbo, so when I hit 3rd and 4th, I need to keep it to 2.5rpm maybe 3 and when it hits 3.5 - 4rpm when the turbo kicks in, it just stutters and refuses to kick in the turbo, but no smoke, no sound, just the engine stutter when the turbo needs to kick in.
I have drove it another 2 miles once I released there was a issue, but refused to give me any boost, it feels exactly like you are laboring the engine, just jutter and stutter when I need to get to 4000rpm. Now its parked on the drive.
My guy says its ok to drive as you would know if the turbo goes as it will revs its tits off and then refuse to move, but he said once this happens the car is dead and ready for the scrap yard.
Such a shame, nice air con, electrics on the steering wheel, full ford service up until 120,000 out of 140,000.
Its given me 4 years worth of service, but too be honest, love the power of the 2.0tdci so maybe it was my bad driving that did this.
Im not a boy racer, but love when the turbo kicks in and the car just flies.
My car has a DPF warning light and has never come on, also never do school runs, by engine always runs hot, and aware of the DPF and know I need to bag it once a while to clear out the junk from the filter.
Not sure a DPF would strangle the turbo? Would it?
I guess it could be a number of things, just worried about driving it monday and tuesday until I get it to the garage.
Lucky I have breakdown service ha ha
I disagree to a point - as it's not necessarily a clogged turbo that's at fault. There are other reasons (vane failure, bearing failure) within the turbo that could do it too.
If it was mine, I'd do the teraclean treatment and if that doesn't help then a recon turbo. Don't bother with the full engine stripdown clean unless your planning on keeping the car for a good few years more.
But the most likely cause is a boost leak. It does the exact symptoms that you are describing. Check the intercooler hoses and all connections around the turbo and the engine inlet. Will be much much cheaper than any other mechanical work.
I have a 2.0TDCi mondeo by the way so it has the same PSA engine, 59 reg with 90k on the clock. (edited)
if you are happy to remove and check hoses then start by removing the intercooler hoses as advised, the splits can be hard to find whilst fitted to the car. There will be a build up of oil on the outside, but that doesn't necessarily mean its from a split pipe, thats why its better to remove and look.
it could be a gunked up turbo causing the vanes to stick, but should throw up an error code/flashing glow plug light.
Do you get good pull when you put your foot down in 1st and 2nd? If so do you get a fair amount of black smoke as well towards and just above 4k revs?
not a cheap job i'm afraid.
It will either be a turbo fault, i,e stuck open/closed wastegate. That could be because it's carboned up hence a terraclean might resolve the issue if that's the case. Could also be a split or blocked vacuum hose although I think it's an electronic actuator on that, so maybe that could be faulty or have faulty wiring?. I used to have wastegate issues on my VW Sharan, 1.9Tdi engine, Cleaned out with mrmuscle and it'd be fine for another year of town driving.
However it'll most likely be the dpf at fault, I think you might be slightly misunderstanding how it works. It doesn't start the dpf regeneration just because you put your foot down, The cars ECU decides when it's convenient to do a regeneration. Could be with that sort of mileage that it's reached it's end and simply won't work efficiently anymore.
Forscan can do a static regeneration, You could run that a few times and it may or may not restore the dpf etc.. Defo worth a try.
You'd need a cable like this and you can download forscan from here
To a less extent it could be something to do with the egr, A terraclean might help with that if it's clogged, I think it's electronic so potentially faulty or dodgy wiring.
Usually a faulty egr would give you other issues like running poorly, juddering etc, Same as injectors if they were faulty it would probably run poorly misfire. Try revving while stationary and see if its smooth.
Anything that restricts the flow of exhaust gasses is going to potentially trigger the limp mode, It does it to protect the turbo.
(edited)
I'm no expert but sounds like a sticking EGR valve to me.
My Jag X-type has a 2.0 ford diesel lump in and symptoms were similar, I've now blanked it.
EGR valve would throw up the flashing coil light.
Both times that I had an issue with EGR on my Jag xtype I had no warning light. Just lack of power. Even now with the EGR blanked I have no warning light....
Put my foot down in 4th and the turbo kicked in with no issues at all, flew like a bird. Is it possible for a turbo to go into a limp mode to say your pushing the car too much?
I need him to look at some strange rattling on the passenger front wheel, and realised my rear side brake lights are not working so he can do this.
Very strange things have went back to normal after 2 days of sitting on the drive.
Of course, the problems can be intermittent, On my old VW Sharan when the wastegate started sticking it would go into limp mode when I was going up hills or demanding a bit of power, usually in third and from around 2500rpm+ If I kept rpm below that it'd be fine.
When I got the fault it never used to trigger the engine warning light or give any indication there was a problem, Just lose power and it'd struggle to go past 2000rpm. It would reset when you cycled the ignition.
The fault wasn't even displayed an universal OBD scanners, It would say no errors found etc.. But on dealer level diagnostics like vagcom or vcds it would display the fault as an overboost problem which can be caused by several faults. Like split vacuum pipes, Faulty wiring looms etc.. Basically the wastegate isn't working properly, Often because it's carboned up.
You should get it hooked up to dealer level diagnostics and it'll take the guess work out. Forscan and a diagnostics cable I posted in my other post would read them.
Lots of people buy universal diagnostics machines and they simply don't read all the codes or modules, People assume there cars are fault free when there are often hidden codes.
I'd be surprised though if it isn't something to do with the dpf in your case.
EGR or injector faults would usually resort in poor running.
It should never really cause it to go into limp mode, Obviously there is a limit when you redline it.
If you rev it at high revs for a considerable amount of time then sure the turbo will get extremely hot. You'll also be demanding more fuel, air and exhausting more gasses. They're rigorously tested by the manufacturers and are designed to deal with the tolerances. However if the system detects a fault then it'll shut the system down to make sure it doesn't cause any damage to the turbo etc..
Of course you're putting more stress and more demand on the system so chances are especially on an older car the designed components will no longer live up to the manufacturers tolerances no more. They will basically be fine until you stress test them.
Getting the turbo to get hot isn't always a bad thing as it'll help burn off some of the excess carbon.
Obviously you thrash it too much and you'll wear the components out much faster, As well as waiting for the engine to warm up before you start to push performance, You should also allow time for the turbo to cool gradually before the end of your journey.
Hot and cold, stop/start puts much more strain on the engine, turbo and components.