Advice on a Nikon DSLR

    Hello all,

    I am thinking of getting Nikon d3000 camera. I have read reviews and i think it has everything i need and more for many years.

    Now the plan for purchase is:
    £399 via jessops
    - quidco/topcashback refund
    - £30 nikon rebate
    - approx £30 from tax refund as I will be departing the eu and can get part of the vat refunded using globalrefund
    = approx £320ish

    i am wanting to move in to dslr, my old 3mp 10 zoon konica minolta cameras getting a bit old and i have loved it since 2004/5 but it is time to upgrade. (28GB worth of photos so far!)

    When i went in to jessops to have a bit of a play with the d3000, I noticed they had a deal that if you can get the tamron 70-300 auto focus with macro lens for £99 if purchased with the camera. there was a nikon of the same specs but without the macro which i do like alot. Is this a good deal? the camera comes with a 18-55 vr af lens, so i am thinking that getting this extra £99 tamron lens would make sense. buying it separately would cost £149. i dont think that i will buy another lens for a good number of years, and I am a bit confused about whether i should get a VR version of the 70-300 tamron lens which is significantly more expensive.

    so the question is, do you think this purchase scheme and lens combo is the best?

    i know there is criticism about the cheap tamron/sigma lenses but i dont think that my level of photography will never need a super nice lens

    i am also trying to figure out getting a geotagging device for in the future, but i am truly confused as if this is possible for the d3000.

    any advice and thoughts would be most welcome!


    Without VR the 70-300mm is going to be difficult to use without a tripod as you're going to need shutter speeds of roughly 1/450 at the long end (450mm equivalent) to try and avoid blur caused by camera shake. The maximum aperture is F5.6 at 300mm which means the camera isn't letting in much light which will make getting a high shutter speed more difficult. This focal range is where VR/IS is particularly beneficial and can mean the difference between handholding a lens or having to resort to a tripod.

    A while back I bought a 50-200mm lens for my SLR system as I wanted more reach, this is equivalent to a 100-400mm on a 35mm system. However I found the lens difficult to use handheld unless in bright conditions, the teleconverter made it even worse leaving me to need a tripod to get good sharp shots. I upgraded to an E-510 which thanks to its image stabilisation meant I could enjoy the benefits of IS on the 50-200mm lens which was a big improvement, in most cases I could use the lens handheld and in bright conditions even with the teleconverter it gave me good sharp shots.

    In short, I certainly wouldn't underestimate the benefits of VR/IS - you could always try it out in the shop to see what you think. An alternative is to look at another company that offers in body IS, namely Sony, Pentax or Olympus. These companies produce bodies with the stabilisation system built into the body which means that any lens attached gains the benefit of image stabilisation.

    Unfortunately I don't think the Nikon GPS accessory (the GP-1) is compatible with the D3000 although there are other options available. One company produces a GPS module which fits in the flash hotshoe, every time the camera fires it activates the flash hotshoe which instead of firing the flash causes the GPS device to log the location. Afterwards, you download the data from the GPS logger and it can automatically update all the photos with the GPS location by matching up the time/date. One possible problem with this though is that on Panasonic bodies, they see the device as a flash and automatically set the shutter speed to a max of 1/160 and don't allow this to be raised - I don't know if the D3000 is the same, I would hope not.

    Another alternative is a standalone GPS logger such as the one Sony produce - you power the GPS device on and ensure the time/date matches the camera, you then leave the GPS logger powered up sitting in your pocket while you snap away. Afterwards, you take the memory card out of your camera and put it into the GPS logger - it matches up the log entries to the photos and updates the photos with the GPS information itself.


    One thing to remember the tamron won't be true 1:1 macro so I wouldn't bother looking for this feature on a zoom lens. :thumbsup:

    Info here >…62/

    Original Poster

    thanks guys, your comments and the link is very useful

    what is your opinion on where technology is going concerning the placement of vr/is being in the lenses or the camera bodies? are canon/nikon slow to move to it being in the camera? i have been thinking about this and i cant think of a technical reason as to which would be better - for an economical reason i can understand why, but not for a technical reason

    john: your experience with using a non vr/is big lens handheld is very interesting. i know that i would be very dissapointed if it was near unusable considering that is what i do a lot of the time. with my super zoom point and shoot, i am used to propping it up against things to stabilise it. with this 70-300 lens, would this be feasible/acceptable? feasible/acceptable means simply "ok" pictures

    There's a couple of advantages/disadvantages for each IS implmentation - in lens IS is considered to be more effective at longer focal lengths and you can see the IS working in the viewfinder. The downside is of course that you have to buy stabilised lenses, most telephotos offer it but many other lenses don't. In body IS gives stabilisation to all lenses even older legacy lenses however it's considered less effective at longer focal lengths and you can't see the effect of the stabilisation in the viewfinder.

    Of course you can have inbody IS and switch it off if the lens has its own IS but clearly Nikon/Canon have no interest in in body IS. I don't really think there's going to be any change, Panasonic, Canon, Nikon and Sigma I expect to continue with IS in the lenses and Olympus, Pentax and Sony to continue with it in body. Each company will try and improve their respective systems - personally I prefer in body IS in the E-3 as I know I'm getting the benefits of stabilisation in all my lenses. I find it frustrating at times when shooting with my non-stabilised bodies as some of the lenses I like aren't offered with IS at all forcing me to bump the ISO higher to try and get a better shutter speed.

    It's difficult to make generalisations about the performance handheld, your Minolta (assuming it's a z10) is 290mm at the long end at a reasonably fast F3.4 aperture. The 70-300mm lens goes to 450mm equivalent and is a slower F5.6 aperture (although the D3000 can make up for this by using a higher ISO to get a better shutter speed), the SLR package is going to be bigger and heavier. If possible I think the best option is to try out the camera body and lens to see how you get on, just remember you will need to make sure your shutter speed is high - if shooting in a shop, push the ISO up to 1600/3200 if needed to get a reasonable shutter speed.


    Mate shot these with a Nikon D40 handheld zoomed using a sigma 70-300 non is lens to give you an idea.

    Also shot this on a Canon 40D at 100mm with a non is lens also .

    Those aren't very good examples to be fair though, IS enabled on those shots could potentially ruin them as the camera is panning - at the very least you'd have to disable half the IS system to prevent it correcting the panning motion. The conditions are clearly bright which would make it easy to get a high shutter speed removing the need for IS anyway.


    Original Poster

    thanks guys, the example photos and johns reply is *very* useful. unfortunately i can not hand out more rep!

    I am going to ponder over this for another couple weeks i think, the prices seems pretty consistent and there might be a good deal when it gets closer to christmas.

    john: yes you are correct, I have the z10! and i will follow your suggestion and directions when i go have a play

    I have been comparing the specs between the d3000 and the z10…all
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