Damp proof membrane (liquid) and screeding advice

22
Posted 2nd Sep 2018
Hey everyone

This is a nice Sunday topic I'm needing advice on

I need to get my kitchen and diner covered with liquid damp proof on the concrete. The plan is then to screed the top.

I am planning to get a few quotes but was wondering if I could get some pointers from people in the know. Maybe let me know some questions I need to ask, what should it cost roughly, or anything else please

I've seen a couple of YouTube videos on them so it looks fairly straightforward but still, pointers from tradesmen here, or others who have had it done would be great.

Many thanks
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Do you have an existing DPM or have you removed floor boards on top of concrete etc?
matthews947902/09/2018 18:42

Do you have an existing DPM or have you removed floor boards on top of …Do you have an existing DPM or have you removed floor boards on top of concrete etc?


Currently no dpm, just a concrete floor. So from the youtube vids it seems floor needs to be cleaned of any bumps etc, apply the liquid DPM, couple of coats, them let it dry after which it can be screeded.

So in short, there's no floorboards, just a concrete floor with no DPM.
EN1GMA13 m ago

Currently no dpm, just a concrete floor. So from the youtube vids it seems …Currently no dpm, just a concrete floor. So from the youtube vids it seems floor needs to be cleaned of any bumps etc, apply the liquid DPM, couple of coats, them let it dry after which it can be screeded. So in short, there's no floorboards, just a concrete floor with no DPM.


Bit difficult without seeing it, but you may be able to apply liquid DPM as described then cover it with deep base self leveller or similar depending on the floor height requirements or cement sand screed or use a company that pumps in the self leveller (flowcrete) or similar product.
Hey guys, I've got a kitchen diner where the kitchen will be covered with luxery vinyl tiles and diner with carpet.

Floor still needs to be screeded. Wanted to know, if I want a level floor between where the LVT are are the diner area, how should I pitch the screeding?

Should the area where the LVT is going be screeded higher and where the carpet is going to be lower?

My thinking is carpet area will have 10mm underlay plus the thickness of the carpet. LVT is only a few mm.

Other option is LVT the whole area but looking at ideal situation at the moment.

Thanks guys
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deleted1471098
Never understand why people put carpet in a dining room, it’s like putting carpet in a toilet, disgusting!

Put wood in the diner or tiles.
Edited by: "deleted1471098" 7th Sep 2018
deleted147109807/09/2018 17:24

Never understand why people put carpet in a dining room, it’s like putting …Never understand why people put carpet in a dining room, it’s like putting carpet in a toilet, disgusting!Put wood in the diner or tiles.


I'm with you on that.
deleted147109807/09/2018 17:24

Never understand why people put carpet in a dining room, it’s like putting …Never understand why people put carpet in a dining room, it’s like putting carpet in a toilet, disgusting!Put wood in the diner or tiles.


Toilet and carpet no, carpet and diner, why not. We eat Japanese old school style, on the floor, so carpet is lovely.
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deleted1471098
EN1GMA07/09/2018 18:29

Toilet and carpet no, carpet and diner, why not. We eat Japanese old …Toilet and carpet no, carpet and diner, why not. We eat Japanese old school style, on the floor, so carpet is lovely.


Japanese don’t use carpet they use rugs on wooden/tile floors.

Basically food/drink spillage, unhygienic sitting on carpet to eat. Wooden/tile floors can be sterilised
Edited by: "deleted1471098" 7th Sep 2018
deleted147109807/09/2018 18:31

Japanese don’t use carpet they use rugs on wooden/tile floors. Basically f …Japanese don’t use carpet they use rugs on wooden/tile floors. Basically food/drink spillage, unhygienic sitting on carpet to eat. Wooden/tile floors can be sterilised


I've not managed to find thick enough rugs, otherwise it's the preferred option.
EN1GMA07/09/2018 18:29

Toilet and carpet no, carpet and diner, why not. We eat Japanese old …Toilet and carpet no, carpet and diner, why not. We eat Japanese old school style, on the floor, so carpet is lovely.


Not just Japanese eat on the floor you'll find from the middle east to the indian subcontinent thats the traditional way.

I preferit personally hate sitting on a table and chair plus great for the massive gatherings we have no one's got that many table and chairs, we're easily 30+ and get together regularly
adhkarzf07/09/2018 19:50

Not just Japanese eat on the floor you'll find from the middle east to the …Not just Japanese eat on the floor you'll find from the middle east to the indian subcontinent thats the traditional way.I preferit personally hate sitting on a table and chair plus great for the massive gatherings we have no one's got that many table and chairs, we're easily 30+ and get together regularly


You got luxery vinyl tiles on places to sit?
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deleted1471098
EN1GMA1 h, 53 m ago

I've not managed to find thick enough rugs, otherwise it's the preferred …I've not managed to find thick enough rugs, otherwise it's the preferred option.

google.co.uk/search?q=thick+rugs&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb

A simple google search reveals many options.... if your in the southwest or wales try trago mills
Edited by: "deleted1471098" 7th Sep 2018
EN1GMA1 h, 18 m ago

You got luxery vinyl tiles on places to sit?


Heck no i live in a rental we put down I'm not sure what you call it in english its a mat made of lots of plastic type tubes all sewn together and then a vinyl sheet on top of that.

The kitchen floor is cheap vinyl i prefer lino as it was softer in my old house.
Needs to be the same level,

You need to use a ‘z’ plate to seperate them but bring them together.

Look like this

screwfix.com/p/z…JKg
Hey everyone,

So, Liquid Damp proof membrane has been applied to the floor, and some bonding.

Need about 10mm of self level/screed so looking for advice on products people have used. Area to be covered is approx 20m2.

So I got 2 options. Either get a deep fill option which allow up to 50mm to be screeded/leveled.

Or go for another option where you can only screed/level upto 6mm so that would one screed of 6mm, let it dry, then apply another 4mm.

Just wondering what products people have used and recommend, considering the amount of mm I need and largish area.

Any help appreciated.

Xxx
I've just finished sorting the utility room. 12m2. The concrete screed had never been properly finished and was dusting/crunching. First round, I used Everbuild 503 bond. 1:1. Rolled it on with a large roller. That did a brilliant job of sealing the floor and binding some smaller holes.

Then I used 3 x 20kg bags of Everbuild 710 latex self levelling. Pigging bloody awful stuff. Too thick (and I was very careful with the mixing although I did do them consecutively). Trowelling left all sorts of uneven ridges.

So I redid the 503 bonding layer and used Sika 25 (also from Everbuild). Bought 2 x 25kg bags and mixed them concurrently then pured them. Much better viscosity and the result was pretty bloody good though I say so myself.

I suspect Evebuild have a problem batch of 710 but I cant be arsed to chase them down about it. Sika 25 was a much better product and cheaper.
Edited by: "ccnp" 11th Sep 2018
ccnp1 h, 25 m ago

I've just finished sorting the utility room. 12m2. The concrete screed …I've just finished sorting the utility room. 12m2. The concrete screed had never been properly finished and was dusting/crunching. First round, I used Everbuild 503 bond. 1:1. Rolled it on with a large roller. That did a brilliant job of sealing the floor and binding some smaller holes. Then I used 3 x 20kg bags of Everbuild 710 latex self levelling. Pigging bloody awful stuff. Too thick (and I was very careful with the mixing although I did do them consecutively). Trowelling left all sorts of uneven ridges.So I redid the 503 bonding layer and used Sika 25 (also from Everbuild). Bought 2 x 25kg bags and mixed them concurrently then pured them. Much better viscosity and the result was pretty bloody good though I say so myself.I suspect Evebuild have a problem batch of 710 but I cant be arsed to chase them down about it. Sika 25 was a much better product and cheaper.


Perfect perfect. It's the sika stuff I was looking at. The floor has been Liquid DMPd with ever build blackjack. Couple of coats. Then I've put one coat of Sbr bond. 2nd coat going on tomorrow hopefully.

Was oohing and aahing about which ever build screeding/self level to use. Spoke to their tech and the 710 is what they mentioned. But that's got a max of 6mm.

You sir, have given me the answer I was looking for.

Do you know how many bags I'd need for about 20m2?

Also, how long to dry and start doing prep work to place LVT and kitchen units?

Any other advice you can give please?

Thanks again
Thank you and good luck

You very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I had 3 conversations in all).

The bags coverage is 5m2 but I got 6. I wish I had overdone it and mixed up three bags and just had a slightly deeper screed. That way, I woudl have had minimal need to trowel. Mix all the concurrently ratherf than mix, pour and mix the next one.

Use the proper mixer paddle jobby in a drill and add the powder to the water. AND DO IT OUTSIDE or with a mask on! I am only just shifting the cough and chesty catarrh I caused myself.

I left it overnight to dry and it was fine.

You can get large mixing buckets with handles at Aldi for £3.29 at the moment

Trowel as little as possible. Pour it where its needed and let it do its own magic.
ccnp30 m ago

Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I …Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I had 3 conversations in all). The bags coverage is 5m2 but I got 6. I wish I had overdone it and mixed up three bags and just had a slightly deeper screed. That way, I woudl have had minimal need to trowel. Mix all the concurrently ratherf than mix, pour and mix the next one.Use the proper mixer paddle jobby in a drill and add the powder to the water. AND DO IT OUTSIDE or with a mask on! I am only just shifting the cough and chesty catarrh I caused myself. I left it overnight to dry and it was fine.You can get large mixing buckets with handles at Aldi for £3.29 at the momentTrowel as little as possible. Pour it where its needed and let it do its own magic.


Your advice and help has been spot. Like a mirror image of what I'm going through.

Where did you buy the sika 25 from? Is that the deep fill screed? So can be levelled up to 50mm in one go. The 710 can only be leveled up by 6mm at a time (according to the sika tech guy).

So like I said, option was the 710 which you obviously didn't get on with or the deep fill which I'm going to assume is the sika 25.

Thanks again.
ccnp32 m ago

Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I …Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I had 3 conversations in all). The bags coverage is 5m2 but I got 6. I wish I had overdone it and mixed up three bags and just had a slightly deeper screed. That way, I woudl have had minimal need to trowel. Mix all the concurrently ratherf than mix, pour and mix the next one.Use the proper mixer paddle jobby in a drill and add the powder to the water. AND DO IT OUTSIDE or with a mask on! I am only just shifting the cough and chesty catarrh I caused myself. I left it overnight to dry and it was fine.You can get large mixing buckets with handles at Aldi for £3.29 at the momentTrowel as little as possible. Pour it where its needed and let it do its own magic.


Is it this one?

diy.com/dep…prd
ccnp1 h, 2 m ago

Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I …Thank you and good luckYou very probably spoke to the same guy I did (I had 3 conversations in all). The bags coverage is 5m2 but I got 6. I wish I had overdone it and mixed up three bags and just had a slightly deeper screed. That way, I woudl have had minimal need to trowel. Mix all the concurrently ratherf than mix, pour and mix the next one.Use the proper mixer paddle jobby in a drill and add the powder to the water. AND DO IT OUTSIDE or with a mask on! I am only just shifting the cough and chesty catarrh I caused myself. I left it overnight to dry and it was fine.You can get large mixing buckets with handles at Aldi for £3.29 at the momentTrowel as little as possible. Pour it where its needed and let it do its own magic.


Or this one?

everbuild.co.uk/pro…ng/
Sorry for the questions so late. Wth is a featheredge finish? Will that be possible with the sika 25?

Thanks
Local merchant (Builders Supplies, Coventry) for £14.58 a bag.

This one everbuild.co.uk/pro…ng/ I was only looking for a 5mm apporx finish so can't tell you about deep fill mixes

Feather edge involves troweling and that's where it goes wrong for me as a very occasional DIYer. I am sure a pro can do it Good luck if you try..
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