Gutters, painting

10
Found 21st Aug 2017
I want to paint [steel] gutters but I don't know how to get to that.
My primary problems are:

- they are rusted on the side that is really inaccessible [close to the wall to clean them with drill bits]
- should they be cleaned and painted inside with same paint as on the outside
- what paint inside/outside - I mean to prevent rusting for long time

I'd appreciate any DIY for dummies please
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Can't you replace with upvc steel imitation guttering and down pipes ?
Steel gutters won't last forever and at some point will need replacing.

I personally would only just paint what can be seen and allow the back to rust - unless you take the gutters off you won't have access to this part (which may cause damage to the gutters anyway)! I would not bother with the inside of the gutter as any paint you apply will likely not last very long.

For the outside visible parts I would sand to remove all rust and any loose paint then prime with a red oxide primer - allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Then any decent branded exterior grade gloss paint will do, two coats minimum, 24 hours min in between.
Original Poster
Van197321st Aug

Steel gutters won't last forever and at some point will need replacing. …Steel gutters won't last forever and at some point will need replacing. I personally would only just paint what can be seen and allow the back to rust - unless you take the gutters off you won't have access to this part (which may cause damage to the gutters anyway)! I would not bother with the inside of the gutter as any paint you apply will likely not last very long.For the outside visible parts I would sand to remove all rust and any loose paint then prime with a red oxide primer - allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Then any decent branded exterior grade gloss paint will do, two coats minimum, 24 hours min in between.


Is it that Red Oxide Primer got famous coz it was including lead in past and now it lives on fame of it's predecessor?

I find it either confusing choice among all primers / paints / paint + primer / direct to rust stuff or not confusing at all because it all sucks after all and there is no real leader on the market as after a year all flakes and rusts anyway... ???

I found that
steelconstruction.info/Pai…ngs

So coming to primers: Etch primers, Epoxy primers, Zinc epoxy primers, Zinc silicate primers.
And when I get to the shop It doesn't say on the tin what kind this is. Online they are quite expensive though so I assume in shop these are some generic primers?


In the end I might do what you say, but usually it works for me better if behind product - there is some scientific proofing like I could find on methods presented in this article.

What if I use 'some' bitumen on the inside to slow the process of rusting and seal the leaks? Will this make a nightmare to clean pipes later?

kester7621st Aug

Can't you replace with upvc steel imitation guttering and down pipes ?



too big job for this summer, and no money in case something goes wrong - since I don't know what can go wrong I need to assume that worst case scenario is hiring pro and no money for that now.

I was researching using some screwfix plastic and it doesn't [I think] look bad, as price is not overwhelming [of gutters and holders if I got it right].

Have you got estimate for replacement - £ per meter when you include all bits and bobs [DIY]?
veni_vidi_emere6 h, 18 m ago

Is it that Red Oxide Primer got famous coz it was including lead in past …Is it that Red Oxide Primer got famous coz it was including lead in past and now it lives on fame of it's predecessor?I find it either confusing choice among all primers / paints / paint + primer / direct to rust stuff or not confusing at all because it all sucks after all and there is no real leader on the market as after a year all flakes and rusts anyway... ???I found thathttp://www.steelconstruction.info/Paint_coatingsSo coming to primers: Etch primers, Epoxy primers, Zinc epoxy primers, Zinc silicate primers.And when I get to the shop It doesn't say on the tin what kind this is. Online they are quite expensive though so I assume in shop these are some generic primers?In the end I might do what you say, but usually it works for me better if behind product - there is some scientific proofing like I could find on methods presented in this article.What if I use 'some' bitumen on the inside to slow the process of rusting and seal the leaks? Will this make a nightmare to clean pipes later?too big job for this summer, and no money in case something goes wrong - since I don't know what can go wrong I need to assume that worst case scenario is hiring pro and no money for that now.I was researching using some screwfix plastic and it doesn't [I think] look bad, as price is not overwhelming [of gutters and holders if I got it right].Have you got estimate for replacement - £ per meter when you include all bits and bobs [DIY]?

Sorry, I paid a company to replace ours when we got our windows replaced. They replaced the sofits, fascias and swapped the run off felt to plastic due to it being a risk of rotting. Cost a bit but cheaper to get it all done at once
We now have aluminium extruded guttering..single run (no joints) lengths, much easier to maintain; not sure how much it costs these days though.It sounds like yours might cause damp wall problems - even if repainted.
veni_vidi_emere8 h, 40 m ago

Is it that Red Oxide Primer got famous coz it was including lead in past …Is it that Red Oxide Primer got famous coz it was including lead in past and now it lives on fame of it's predecessor?I find it either confusing choice among all primers / paints / paint + primer / direct to rust stuff or not confusing at all because it all sucks after all and there is no real leader on the market as after a year all flakes and rusts anyway... ???I found thathttp://www.steelconstruction.info/Paint_coatingsSo coming to primers: Etch primers, Epoxy primers, Zinc epoxy primers, Zinc silicate primers.And when I get to the shop It doesn't say on the tin what kind this is. Online they are quite expensive though so I assume in shop these are some generic primers?In the end I might do what you say, but usually it works for me better if behind product - there is some scientific proofing like I could find on methods presented in this article.What if I use 'some' bitumen on the inside to slow the process of rusting and seal the leaks? Will this make a nightmare to clean pipes later?too big job for this summer, and no money in case something goes wrong - since I don't know what can go wrong I need to assume that worst case scenario is hiring pro and no money for that now.I was researching using some screwfix plastic and it doesn't [I think] look bad, as price is not overwhelming [of gutters and holders if I got it right].Have you got estimate for replacement - £ per meter when you include all bits and bobs [DIY]?


I don't know the history of red oxide paint but you may be right. It will however still do the job for you and should give you a few years - to get better you would need better preparation, i.e sandblasting the surface which you're not going to do on top of a ladder!

As to bitumen paint, not too bad of an idea but it will wash off with time. The benefits of bitumen paint is it's adherence- it's very sticky but it remains soft. If you were to do it I'd do a very thin coat.

As to cost of replacement (DIY), I did plastic guttering on a new build shed a few years ago and it's overall quite cheap - can't give tou a precise price per m but it's one of those jobs that you feel you got value for money. I bought the stuff from Wickes who were the cheapest at the time. Putting it up is quite easy if you have good access (no conservatories restricting ladder access etc) - it'll be taking down the old stuff that that'll take the time - get yourself an angle grinder with a long cable!
Original Poster
Finished
Used:
No Nonsense Roof & Gutter Sealant Black to seal joint
TSP to remove organic oils
Phosphoric Acid from Machine mart to convert rust
Johnstones AntirUST Red Oxide to paint it all
NoRust Ronseal on the outside
Bitumen Paint inside gutter

let's wait now
I wouldn't risk trying to climb all the way up there. Get them replaced with upvc guttering, then you can forget about it and live your life. Life is too short to be going around painting gutters.
Original Poster
mutley125th Oct

I wouldn't risk trying to climb all the way up there. Get them replaced …I wouldn't risk trying to climb all the way up there. Get them replaced with upvc guttering, then you can forget about it and live your life. Life is too short to be going around painting gutters.



I agree that life's too short for all house chores, but...

shadey1225th Oct

May be of interest …May be of interest op,https://community.screwfix.com/threads/what-paint-for-rusty-guttering.90688/



was reading it when prepping to work on gutters

Edit
HA. Just found on Wikipedia article about Passivation.
Ferrous materials, including steel, may be somewhat protected by promoting oxidation ("rust") and then converting the oxidation to a metalophosphate by using phosphoric acid and further protected by surface coating. As the uncoated surface is water-soluble, a preferred method is to form manganese or zinc compounds by a process commonly known as Parkerizing or phosphate conversion. Older, less-effective but chemically-similar electrochemical conversion coatings included black oxidizing, historically known as bluing or browning. Ordinary steel forms a passivating layer in alkali environments, as reinforcing bar does in concrete.

That is actually pretty important that on industrial level they do it similarly to what I have done.

Next time need to find out more about industrial surface preparation before painting rust and strength od phosphoric acid.
Edited by: "veni_vidi_emere" 6th Dec 2017
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