Help with my car please..keep it or swap?

29
Found 11th May
I have no idea where to start with deciding whether to keep existing car or swap it for something newer (and potentially less of a money pit?)

Current car details:

-Kia C’eed, 11 plate, with 40k miles on the clock

-It has 12 months MOT & Service – faults were Front Discs & Pads need replacing in 3000 miles, Lower Ball Joints, Lower Arm & Battery and Exhaust are the original manufacturer fitted.

Mechanic is saying given its age, I’ll likely need to spend £600+/yr on maintenance in future.I haven’t had any of the work listed above done on it. It also has quite a few dings on more than 1 body panel, so I’m guessing this could be another £600 to repair??

Some of my questions are:

1.What work, if any, should I do on it?

2.How do I compare different car finance options (PCP/car lease/HO/car loan) to one another? ie. in terms of depreciation, lifetime maintenance costs etc.?

3.Is it worth me looking at swapping for another 2nd hand car? Or should I just keep the aging car I’ve already got?

I’m now a single parent and lesson learned here, but the ex always used to sort out this kind of thing, so I’m a) dependent on my own research / any advice offered and also if I’m honest, well out of my comfort zone and a bit scared of car salesmen… (!) but I will grit my teeth and get on with it…as you do

Thank you so much for any advice offered!
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29 Comments
If the car is paid off and you are happy with it. Just suppose it does cost £600 a year to keep it in the road.
Where will you find another car for £50 a month?
Are you still paying finance on the Kia? Those problems just sound like wear and tare. If you took out a newer car on some sort of finance package, you will pay more. If it's the cost that's the big factor, keep your current car.
40k miles on your car is next to nothing for its age, look after it and it should last.
Edited by: "STRICKIBHOY" 11th May
With only 40K on the clock I would def keep, 2011 is not that old. No need to get bodywork done on a budget, if the things you listed were just advisories get a few local quotes and maybe see if there is a local garage that does 0% finance on repairs. If you don't have any local recommendations for garages, try search 'Buy With Confidence' for "Car Repairs / Servicing"
I’ll advise go through you local garages add find decent one who not rips off ppl and can find cheaper alternative genuine parts, and as long ur car engine ok rest is not expensive.
Keep it.
Ah thanks all for your replies Sounds like I've been overlyworrying and I'm best off sticking with my Kia.
In that case - which of the 4 faults found at the Service are must do's and which could potentially wait please?
(discs and pads sound important!)

1. Front Discs & Pads need replacing in 3000 miles
2. O/S & N/S Lower Ball Joints
3. N/S/F Lower Arm
4. Battery & Exhaust OE


Strickibhoy - I own the Kia outright.

Ar460rn - nearest garage on Buy with Confidence is over 20 miles away I'll ask around for recommends.
The average age a vehicle is scrapped is 14 years. Some vehicles get scrapped early because of accidents, but most get scrapped when they're no longer economical to repair and keep going.

8 years is the average age of all vehicles on the road.

The Cee'd is one of the vehicles that most frequently fail their MOTs. That'll partly be reliability but partly because they're targeted towards non-enthusiasts who don't care about the condition of their car.
good-garage-guide.honestjohn.co.uk/mot…011

1. It sounds like the MOT didn't bring up any issues, just the advisory for brakes needing to be replaced in 7 months (at your current 5000 miles a year). You'd obviously do that when they're due.

You can fix the bodywork if you like, but you may not want to bother - especially if the dings are minor and the paint is intact so you won't get rust.

2. It varies depending on things like how long you'd keep a car, so you really just have to add up the costs of what you'd spend.

3. As others have said, unless you're paying off a loan for the car then you're never going to find any cheaper option than an seven year old car you already own. You'd normally start asking this question on a car around ten to twelve years old (usually after the first big bill).
Edited by: "EndlessWaves" 11th May
jo_bob17 m ago

which of the 4 faults found at the Service are must do's and which could …which of the 4 faults found at the Service are must do's and which could potentially wait please?


1. As you have done 40K in 7 years, not immediate but might be cheaper to get done at same time as other bits
2. Worth looking at - suspension
3. Worth looking at - suspension
4. If they ain't bust, leave them be

If they are just advisories none of them are 'rush out and get the first quoted garage' - more like get a few quotes, work out if it will fit your budget, then get them done.

Btw, just had a quick look Eurocarparts - the ball joints for a 11 Ceed are £30 each and a lower arm £115. Maybe £100 for the brake parts, so around £300 parts for those three things.
Keep
Wow - thanks SO much again for everyone's help. Really a huge weight off my mind!

So...brake parts, ball joints & lower arm probably all done together.

Ar460rn - I didn't know I can buy parts myself from the internet - will all garages let me do this and they just fit them? Presumably it works out cheaper for me to source own parts, compared to just dropping the car off and picking up later, job done (which is what I've done previously)?
jo_bob59 m ago

2. O/S & N/S Lower Ball Joints3. N/S/F Lower Arm4. Battery & Exhaust …2. O/S & N/S Lower Ball Joints3. N/S/F Lower Arm4. Battery & Exhaust OE


What exactly are the faults with each?
I don't know - they're just listed on the document I was given after the service (which I've just noticed was only an 'interim' service.

What questions would I need to be asking the mechanic?
To me the faults are just wear and tear and wear out on all vehicles. I have a 2008 Vauxhall Corsa diesel with 43,000 miles and just replaced front discs and pads and both track rod ends. I would keep the car.
jo_bob35 m ago

Wow - thanks SO much again for everyone's help. Really a huge weight off …Wow - thanks SO much again for everyone's help. Really a huge weight off my mind! So...brake parts, ball joints & lower arm probably all done together. Ar460rn - I didn't know I can buy parts myself from the internet - will all garages let me do this and they just fit them? Presumably it works out cheaper for me to source own parts, compared to just dropping the car off and picking up later, job done (which is what I've done previously)?


The parts cost was more to help with comparing the garage prices - they will pay less than that anyway and add margin but it will give you an idea how much they are quoting for labour. I probably wouldn't suggest buying them direct.
As said all of those things are wear and tear, have the brakes and pads done won’t cost the earth, battery may need replacing at that age but could be fine, exhaust could last years just scrapped a 17 year old car and it had its exhaust replaced a couple of years ago and out 11 year old one is still on its original they last a long time now. Get the suspension fixed again shouldn’t be a massive cost.

one thing to remember is the garage want your money they will nearly always find things that need doing and often the timings will be on their side not yours. If it’s just had it’s mot check the mot website as the suspension pieces if they are near needling to be done will be advisories on there.

And as has been said get someone to give you a reliable garage you can trust recommendation.
All those parts are 'buy and fit yourself' items. Or find someone who will do it for some cash in hand...... Friend, neighbour... Friends husband, ask on your local Facebook trading pages. There's always a mechanic who is employed but will do extra work for cash in hand.
Edited by: "mrty" 11th May
Fabulous advice - thanks all. I have learnt loads from this post! Now to find a car maintenance night class...
Don't understand why the battery and exhaust are listed, if they aren't broke then ignore and forget, I've got a 14 year old focus sat outside that had the original battery until about 6 months ago and the exhaust is still going strong.
As all the parts are on the front axle. Best to do them all at once. Not out of fear but cost.
The disassembly will involve wheel removal etc. To do brakes, the lower arm also needs a wheel off, guess what with the ball joints?

Battery you can realistically for yourself. Halfords will do it. Just shop about for battery cost first and see how much more Halfords and fitting costs.
Exhaust avoid The Kwik sheds, your car will be a lethal object in their opinion if you approach them. The man guilt into dearer fixes.
Also if you buy the wrong part yourself, the garage you go to may charge twice for some labour if it doesn’t fit half way through.

Out of interest was it a shed you went to for the MOT? It’s possible half that work isnt even needed.
Oneday7715 m ago

Out of interest was it a shed you went to for the MOT? It’s possible half t …Out of interest was it a shed you went to for the MOT? It’s possible half that work isnt even needed.


Car passed its MOT. The 4 'faults' found were on the interim service, done at the same time...
First of all if you are reasonably competent and have a few tools and some space like a garage/driveway you can do this all (except the exhaust) yourself. You could do the exhaust it’s just very messy.

Discs and pads, your looking at £80-100 total for reasonably good ones if you fit them yourself, plus a one off £15-20 for a calliper reset tool, if garage does it probably £300-400.

Lower arm is easy to do, about £15-20 each side, garage will charge £120-200 to fix. Battery £35-100, garage will normally charge +£50-60 on the price.

Exhaust you can buy from £70-150, fitted £200-350

Try looking at eurocarparts

Some maintenance is easy to do yourself such as servicing, on an older car you don’t need a stamp so doing it yourself will save you some money.

My last car had 160k on it, aside from the first two services while it was under warranty I did all the servicing, brakes, discs, tie rod ends, coil springs, lower arms, fuel filters (diesel) and the jobs I put into the garage were cam belt, alternator, clutch and exhaust (too messy and baked on). I probably saved a few thousand despite buying better parts than your local cheap garage. My car never had any dpf issues as most are caused by poor servicing (not changing the oil). Majority of garages (including main dealers) now change oil at greater intervals not every time you go in for a service!!
Edited by: "cmdr_elito" 11th May
Just a point. Lower balljoint is usually on the lower arm. Or wishbone.
What your mechanic is saying he is going to change it for a new lower arm for about £35 and charge you for the balljoint on top. Arms come with balljoints already fitted.

And it usually throws tracking out when you change them too, which numbnuts probably doesn't know. Or didnt tell you.
I normally find a garage who would be willing to charge labour only and I buy the parts

only last week I bought a font set of Disc and pads which I bought from Mister-auto for under 70 euros free p&p and my local guy fitted them for 35euro the dealer wanted to charge a few hundred euros .. . . . Last year I was quoted nearly 200 euros for a new aircon condenser & dryer bought one from Mister- Auto for 56 euro free P&P and garage fitted

I like mister-Auto as they list the Original part numbers so I know I am getting the right parts
Its surprising how much difference there is if you know what you are on about. As iscom says if i dont have time to fit my self etc i just go and ask how much to fit this.
Cash only usually gets £10 to £30 fitting charge.
Tbh i dont dont recall ever being charged more than £20 fitting. You just need to seek out the good eggs.
Good eggs dont charge for fitting bulbs or wiper blades etc. They will also tell you to go away and wait until a noise develops.

Id love to see how much brake pad is left on your car. 3k miles must be getting down to next to the metal, but im guessing you will have nice chunky brake pads left.
Over the years I have discovered the difference between dealers and garages. . .A dealer wants to replace and a
garage will repair
Edited by: "iscom" 12th May
+1 for Mister Auto.
check their website for prices then their eBay store as you can save even more money there
Lower arms , ball joints , drop links all take punishment from the roads so them as well as brakes is normal
They have only noted manufacturers battery so nothing to worry about
As for the exhaust , leave it till it's broken and in need of repair
Standard manufacturers exhausts will last year's , even when rusty
One of my cars is a ford focus st170 , 2004 , still has original exhaust and cat after 14 years
A aftermarket replacement from a factors will last a few years , they are rubbish build quality
Euros do deals over the weekends so price up parts yourself
Just a note to say I'm still reading all these responses.

I'm so very appreciative of every single one of your posts. Muchos gracias!
So what if your car still has original parts on ???
Brakes got 3000 miles - who on earth knows that ? If you drive carefully they could last many times that - If I thrashed them they might last 1000.
The fact that your car has a full MOT means there is nothing to worry about.
You need a new garage before anything else. Or just a friendly mechanic .
Check ebay for prices - euro have lost the plot pricewise
Edited by: "zzzz" 13th May
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