mounting tv on 53mm plasterboard

18
Found 25th May 2016
I've just had the living room dry lined with 53mm boards. As the house at winter was very cold.
What bolts/screws fixings do I use to gold a cantilever TV bracket and tv?
The boards are dotted and dabbed there is no stud wall.
And it is breeze block by hind it.

Thanks for any help, really don't want to destroy board and TV by using something unsubstantial.
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18 Comments
That was supposed to say behind it - doh
I'm guessing its 12.5mm plasterboard with 40mm foam cell back? If the TV bracket has 4 fixings then metal plasterboard fixings will be fine. If something stronger is required grab some door frame fixings that will go into the block work.
Get chemical fixing from toolstation... Resin in a tube... Get some threaded bolt, say 10mm. Drill a 14mm hole through into blocks. Blowout holes. Shoot them with resin. Shove thread bolt in and half turn... Wait 3 hours. Cut off to length. Use a nut and washer to hold bracket on.. Tape up thread as resin won't come off allowing nut on as it dries hard. £6 For resin. £5 for thread and nuts.
4" screws and rawplugs.
Method I use is to get an offcut of chipboard/plywood from B&Q, find these next to the vertical timber saw, they will happily cut it smaller (free of charge) if you find a bit too big, my local normally sell them of for anything from 10p to £1 for 12/18mm.

Find one and have it cut smaller than the TV so as not to be easily noticed (can be painted or even wallpapered over..)

In your situation I'd use resin and threaded rod as described above, Hilti MM mortar is ideal for this application.

If you use the chipboard/ply to mount the bracket on you can use extra fixings than the bracket normally allows, thus spreading the weight.
Also, if you decide to change to a larger TV and/or change the bracket at a later date, its simple as you leave the board on the wall and simply change the bracket, attaching with woodscrews.



Edited by: "andynicol" 25th May 2016
To mount the bracket correctly you need to use a fixing that goes through the plaster board and insulation board and fix into the block wall behind it assuming these are not thermalite blocks. You will need to use at least 100mm frame fixings. Personally I would go for 120mm. You will have nearly 70mm in the brick then. Your tv will not go anywhere.

If you just use plasterboard fixings like another post suggests I would check your insurance to see if it covers tv's falling off the wall because that's what you will end up with. Another option is you could fasten two battens into the wall. Cut two slots in the wall to fix two timber battens. The battens must be secured to your block wall and then you can screw the bracket to the battens. I would use no.10 or no. 12 screws. I only mentioned the second option as sometimes you can't be guaranteed a decent fix for all four mounting in a breeze block unless its a proper building block. Good luck.
this video shows threaded rod and mortar application.
I would cut out a section of plasterboard the size of your bracket. fix some timber to wall as close to 40mm as possible but not more. remove the foam from rear of plasterboard you removed and replace like for like. you then will have an easy job to plaster patch and a solid surface to simply screw your bracket ensuring nice and level. as a foam background may be possible to channel out at same time to hide cables

To mount the bracket correctly you need to use a fixing that goes through … To mount the bracket correctly you need to use a fixing that goes through the plaster board and insulation board and fix into the block wall behind it assuming these are not thermalite blocks. You will need to use at least 100mm frame fixings. Personally I would go for 120mm. You will have nearly 70mm in the brick then. Your tv will not go anywhere. If you just use plasterboard fixings like another post suggests I would check your insurance to see if it covers tv's falling off the wall because that's what you will end up with. Another option is you could fasten two battens into the wall. Cut two slots in the wall to fix two timber battens. The battens must be secured to your block wall and then you can screw the bracket to the battens. I would use no.10 or no. 12 screws. I only mentioned the second option as sometimes you can't be guaranteed a decent fix for all four mounting in a breeze block unless its a proper building block. Good luck.



I don't think he is mounting a CRT TV! Lol

Plasterboard fixing test
GAVINLEWISHUKD

I don't think he is mounting a CRT TV! LolPlasterboard fixing test



Examples in that video are moot as it is likely that plasterboard has decent framework behind in at 600mm? centres.

Night and day to the OPs plasterboard.

I don't think he is mounting a CRT TV! LolPlasterboard fixing test



Maybe not but a 50" LED tv weighs best part of 20 kilos and plasterboard isn't going to hold that even if it is backed with Celotex or Kingspan insulation. It's not the same as coldstore insulation which is metal backed, his will be as strong as crazy foam and brittle. I used plasterboard fixings for a kitchen cupboard many years ago. Over a few months the holes became bigger with the constant vibration of the doors being shut and it came loose. The same will happen with his tv and don't forget he has a cantilever bracket so the tv will pushing its weight forward as well as down. If you can pull a fixing out of the wall with a pair of pliers then its going to be no good for mounting a tv unless it's maybe a 15" one lol. Better be safe than sorry and over-engineer the fixing. I had to fix a heavy 32" LCD tv on my son's partition wall and it only had one vertical stud. I cut a long slot in the plasterboard, fastened a batten in situ, put the plasterboard back and filled in the gaps. The weight was then being spread over a 50mm x 600mm area of the plasterboard instead of a two 12mm holes.

Edited by: "Smartguy1" 25th May 2016
Thanks everyone for chipping in. Threaded bolt and resin sounds like the best option
Stupid question, how do I know I've got th resin all the way into the block, I can't see an applicator having a 100mm nozzle?

Thanks everyone for chipping in. Threaded bolt and resin sounds like the … Thanks everyone for chipping in. Threaded bolt and resin sounds like the best option Stupid question, how do I know I've got th resin all the way into the block, I can't see an applicator having a 100mm nozzle?



Toolstation

Above link shows you a spare nozzle for resin they sell, if its not long enough add a piece of plastic pipe (fish tank filter hose etc) widely available from pet stores or B&Q cut it to length and the nozzle can be made longer for your needs.
Resin they sell is on p.320, although also available in Screwfix etc.
When filling slowly withdraw the nozzle to ensure its completely full, when inserting the rod you want to see some excess oozing out, indicating that the hole is filled.
Ensure it remains horizontal, some masking tape may be need to keep it in place as it may want to fall to a slight downward angle.
I'd leave overnight to set.


Edited by: "andynicol" 26th May 2016
drylinepro.com/dry…tml useful tip on how to load test a cantilever TV arm.
Probably not the best to mount it on plasterboard due to leverage.

How heavy is the TV and how long is the cantilever arm and how big is the wall bracket ( Larger the surface area the more the load is spread ) ?
I fix sinks to walls with 2 threads. Just shoot in hole the when you push thread in it will oozzz out. I give it have a turn to. Sets in a hour and no way it will pull out after 3. Youtube shows you how. Buy the small tube as enough for 4 threads.
ok - thanks again everyone
Just be careful when going into the block work - you may have some voids (you will know when you find one) - if you do hit a void than you will need some fischer resin collars - available from Screwfix as well - or else you will be injecting resin all day long
For what it will cost in time and money, would definitely add more supports especially if you have kids.
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