One for the Pro Painters & Decoraters

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Found 25th May
Hi guys,

So I recently painted all the skirtings/ architraves/balustrades in my hall/stairs & landing satin white. It was all pine before, obviously stained/waxed over the years.

In preparation, I sanded everything and wiped it all over with white spirit. The dust and smell combo that week was a nightmare lol. This took me a good week to do properly! I used Dulux Primer Undercoat on everything twice. I then coated with Dulux Satin white gloss twice. It all looked fab for the first month, but 6 months on, everything bar the balustrades has gone a yellow kind of shade where I guess years of stain has soaked through the new paint.

Is there a way I can remedy this without stripping it all back to the wood? I know there are stain blocking under coats out there, could I just key what I’ve already painted and then use a stain blocker or will it always come back like this?

It’s a shame because the few parts that have stayed white look lovely, the rest look like we smoke 40 a day!

Dan
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You used solvent then? Goes yellow rapidly. Did you use satin or gloss finish? I guess gloss hence its gone yellow. We are just behind in paint technology and they should withdraw some of the solvent paints but it's such a good seller they won't
Try using a water based satin like Johnstones one coat quickdry satin.
As webtrawler says, Any solvent/oil based paint will go yellow over time, Use a decent quality Water Based paint.
If you not sure when buying then just look to see if the brushes can be cleaned with water, if so your good to go, Have to be washed with Spirits then stay away. The one thing to note with these paints is they don't go on as well so you have to take a bit more time and an extra coat to get a nice finish
Ive just used Screwfix Undercoat and Gloss Satinwood all in one! No more yellow all gone used to get that a lot. I think it’s chemical reaction and light effecting it to go yellow
Just paint it yellow to start with!
What a load of bad advice in this thread!

Solvent based based is far superior in terms of finish and durability.

Gloss can yellow OVER TIME. Im tallking 3/4 years but not in 6 months. Simple solution. Dont use GLOSS - use an oil based satin eggshell that wont yellow.

You failed to to use a stain blocking primer before applying the finishing coats.

Thats what making it yellow - not the gloss.

You need to sand back to get a key (120 grit), apply a shellac based stain blocker (Zinner BIN 123/Stain block), then 2 coats of oil based eggshell.

Little Greene would be my paint of choice, great colours and fantastic forumulations.

Add owatrol oil to the mix to improve flow and workability.
Edited by: "BMOLE" 25th May
Start smoking 40 a day
Edited by: "Joey.Bloggsy" 25th May
It was the EU's fault saving us from cancer causing Volatile Organic Compounds.

Use Satinwood or Eggshell
BMOLE17 m ago

What a load of bad advice in this thread!Solvent based based is far …What a load of bad advice in this thread!Solvent based based is far superior in terms of finish and durability.Gloss can yellow OVER TIME. Im tallking 3/4 years but not in 6 months. Simple solution. Dont use GLOSS - use an oil based satin eggshell that wont yellow. You failed to to use a stain blocking primer before applying the finishing coats.Thats what making it yellow - not the gloss. You need to sand back to get a key (120 grit), apply a shellac based stain blocker (Zinner BIN 123/Stain block), then 2 coats of oil based eggshell. Little Greene would be my paint of choice, great colours and fantastic forumulations.Add owatrol oil to the mix to improve flow and workability.


You not seen the.. will yellow... Warnings on some tins. Even the trade centers push waterbased alternatives although I don't use the well know UK brands as they aren't good. Waterbased Alkyd especially sprayed looks amazing. 2010 voc change ment the end of solvent gloss although some insist on using it. Just what we know I guess.
Hi guys. Thanks for the advice. I’m not a professional at all, just your average home DIY’er. I’ve always used that Dulux paint combo, and I should have made myself clearer, it’s Satinwood that I used. The bedrooms and bathroom have been fine, the bathrooms been done for about 7 years now and it still lovely and white. It’s obviously just years of stain on the wood.

I have to say, I’d never seen the ‘will yellow’ on the tins. It’s not that the gloss has gone yellow, it’s the stain that’s bled through.

I’ve got a Brewers locally, I’ll pop in and see what they have.
Cover what you have with a coat of Zinsser BIN screwfix.com/p/z…130- not cheap and not easy to apply but will stop any stains coming through. Then as other have suggested use a good water based gloss - I use Leyland from Toolstation toolstation.com/sho…018
wayners25th May

You not seen the.. will yellow... Warnings on some tins. Even the trade …You not seen the.. will yellow... Warnings on some tins. Even the trade centers push waterbased alternatives although I don't use the well know UK brands as they aren't good. Waterbased Alkyd especially sprayed looks amazing. 2010 voc change ment the end of solvent gloss although some insist on using it. Just what we know I guess.


Not after 3-6 months! Few years maybe! Jeez, As if anyone would paint something white in the knowledge it will be yellow in 3 months!
BMOLE11 m ago

Not after 3-6 months! Few years maybe! Jeez, As if anyone would paint …Not after 3-6 months! Few years maybe! Jeez, As if anyone would paint something white in the knowledge it will be yellow in 3 months!


No. Weeks. Goes green ish very quickly if no natural light so worse in winter months. Just goggle it. If you complain they say you shouldn't use solvent paints internally. Anyway. This problem is from 2011-15. Just Google it
Like I say, before anyone falls out with each other, it’s not the gloss that’s gone yellow, it’s the years of stain that’s bled through. There are parts of the aforementioned woodwork that have stayed white, but I’d say 75% has yellowed because of the stain bleeding through. Again, I’ve used Dulux Primer Undercoat and Dulux Satinwood on loads of new skirting boards in the house and it has stayed white, so nothing wrong with Dulux, it’s the original skirting boards and architraves that have been a problem because I now know, that I should have used a stain blocker.

Lesson learnt-going to be a slog doing all that again, but at least I know it the bleeding won’t come back (I hope so anyway!).
BMOLE25th May

What a load of bad advice in this thread!Solvent based based is far …What a load of bad advice in this thread!Solvent based based is far superior in terms of finish and durability.Gloss can yellow OVER TIME. Im tallking 3/4 years but not in 6 months. Simple solution. Dont use GLOSS - use an oil based satin eggshell that wont yellow. You failed to to use a stain blocking primer before applying the finishing coats.Thats what making it yellow - not the gloss. You need to sand back to get a key (120 grit), apply a shellac based stain blocker (Zinner BIN 123/Stain block), then 2 coats of oil based eggshell. Little Greene would be my paint of choice, great colours and fantastic forumulations.Add owatrol oil to the mix to improve flow and workability.


Nonsense

I have had gloss go yellow in months, not years

I now use Johnstones aqua which is as white as when I first applied it 4 years ago. Superb paint.
Benjimin Moore advanced waterbased gloss. No undercoat needed or adhesion primes over old solvent gloss. Applys like solvent gloss used to 10 years ago
That BM stuff is far too expensive for me. I’m going to key everything and go for a 2.5L tin of the Zinsser paint, then I’ll weigh up what I’m going to use for a top coat.

For reference, this is how it’s going: you can see some stain has bled through, but not on all of it.


33876881.jpg

2.5L Dulux Undercoat Primer gave everything two coats, so it should be enough. My lounge skirting has done the same, so I’m going to go over that too. Trouble is I have a 2 ½ year old and a newborn so it’s going to take me a good few weeks!

One final question-would one coat be enough or would you do two?
Edited by: "dmoore81" 29th May
dmoore8132 m ago

That BM stuff is far too expensive for me. I’m going to key everything and …That BM stuff is far too expensive for me. I’m going to key everything and go for a 2.5L tin of the Zinsser paint, then I’ll weigh up what I’m going to use for a top coat. For reference, this is how it’s going: you can see some stain has bled through, but not on all of it. [Image] 2.5L Dulux Undercoat Primer gave everything two coats, so it should be enough. My lounge skirting has done the same, so I’m going to go over that too. Trouble is I have a 2 ½ year old and a newborn so it’s going to take me a good few weeks! One final question-would one coat be enough or would you do two?


Zinsser BIN is very thin - so I find often needs two coats just to ensure everything is sealed/covered. Good news is that it dries in approx 10 mins - so you can recoat almost immediately. Think the official line is something like 45 mins but since you just need to ensure everything is covered to stain block then I'd think you could do it sooner than that.

Get some Methylated Spirits to clean your brushes toolstation.com/sho…522 - think it is cheaper in Home Bargains.


It also stinks - high VOC content - so suggest you do it when the kids are out!
Just as a little update, I managed to get hold of some of the Zinsser paint, 2.5L for £35 delivered on eBay. Now in the process of prepping the wood with 120 grit whilst waiting for it to arrive.

Let the fun begin! (Again!)
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