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Removing old storage heater socket boxes on wall

22
Found 4th Oct 2014
Hello, I had my old storage heaters removed two years ago and the external switch boxes had plate covers put on them (however, one was removed and the hole filled in by the workmen who decorated my kitchen). I want to remove the boxes and fill the holes, etc. An electrician came out yesterday to fix my cooker hood and he has tested the old boxes and said that they are not live - there is still a separate storage heater fuse box/circuit board placed above my main fuse box and this has been switched off. Can somebody please tell me the best way to fill these holes please, prior to papering over, etc? Do the holes need to be totally filled in with something or can you place some tape or something across the hole and plaster over it? Would any cables under the boxes just need to be pushed back a bit further or cut off? Any advice would be appreciated, as my new bed frame is turning up on Monday and at the moment one of these old storage boxes is stuck in the way (behind where the headboard will be), which means that the bed will not be able to be pushed up flush to the skirting board. Thank you.
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AskHeaterSocketStorage
22 Comments
Not sure but I'd get someone to make sure the storage heater fuse box couldn't be switched on by accident, I'm surprised it wasn't removed. As for filling the hole probably this. You might want to remove the metal socket box to make it flush.
This one is better suited for you Click Here
You could possibly convert them to a power socket?
Ask an Electrician to disconnect the internal wiring in the heater fuse box then you will be able to safely cut the wires in any sockets you mentioned.You can either remove the boxes and fill the holes or just fill the box then plaster of to finish.
shauneco

You could possibly convert them to a power socket?

thats what i did only took him 5mins to do that
By the sounds of it you mean the heater switches are surface mounted hence the bed not being able to push back to skirting.

If this is the case the hole behind the surface mounted back box will be very small and a touch of filler will suffice.

Regarding isolation, you need to make sure all redundant heater circuits are removed from their mcb/neutral bar within the consumer unit The consumer unit just being switched off is not enough
Original Poster
transit

By the sounds of it you mean the heater switches are surface mounted … By the sounds of it you mean the heater switches are surface mounted hence the bed not being able to push back to skirting.If this is the case the hole behind the surface mounted back box will be very small and a touch of filler will suffice.Regarding isolation, you need to make sure all redundant heater circuits are removed from their mcb/neutral bar within the consumer unit The consumer unit just being switched off is not enough



Hello, surely this would have been done when the old storage box was removed in the kitchen or is there one heater circuit for each storage heater? Thank you.
Sophiasky

Hello, surely this would have been done when the old storage box was … Hello, surely this would have been done when the old storage box was removed in the kitchen or is there one heater circuit for each storage heater? Thank you.



Hi, yes each storage heater will have its own suppy from the consumer unit, if you look at the consumer unit it should have a row of mcb's which should be marked up underneath as kitchen, bedroom1, bedroom2 etc.
Original Poster
transit

Hi, yes each storage heater will have its own suppy from the consumer … Hi, yes each storage heater will have its own suppy from the consumer unit, if you look at the consumer unit it should have a row of mcb's which should be marked up underneath as kitchen, bedroom1, bedroom2 etc.



Sorry, I did mention before but I have two separate consumer unit boxes (Volex ones) - the box near the ceiling is just for the storage heaters and the other box about 12" below, is for everything else in the house - lights, shower, etc (don't have them marked up for individual rooms). The storage heater box has two thick grey cables running down the wall to the meter (not to the other consumer unit). That's why I was saying that if the box was removed from the wall in the kitchen and filled in, wouldn't it all have been disconnected in the storage heater consumer unit already?. Thank you for your help here.
Sophiasky

Sorry, I did mention before but I have two separate consumer unit boxes … Sorry, I did mention before but I have two separate consumer unit boxes (Volex ones) - the box near the ceiling is just for the storage heaters and the other box about 12" below, is for everything else in the house - lights, shower, etc (don't have them marked up for individual rooms). The storage heater box has two thick grey cables running down the wall to the meter (not to the other consumer unit). That's why I was saying that if the box was removed from the wall in the kitchen and filled in, wouldn't it all have been disconnected in the storage heater consumer unit already?. Thank you for your help here.



Ok, i understand you had two consumer units, one was off peak for your storage heaters, i think you are saying the off peak storage heater consumer unit has been removed ?

If it has been removed you will be ok to cut any cables and remove the old boxes/switches in your bedroom.
Rereading this again i think the storage heater consumer unit still has a live supply running to it hence the two grey tails running from the fuses,

Just to clarify , is this the case?
http://mybuilder-uploads.s3.amazonaws.com/2_thumb/684533_34bd1286ec.jpg

Should be something like this, the smaller consumer unit is an off peak board for heating,

What i'm trying to get over is although the board is turned off there is a chance it could be turned on which unless the individual circuits are removed from their mcb's and neutral bar could cause risks of faults and more importantly electric shock.
Original Poster
Not too sure now. From what I can see, all of the switches have been turned off (the two big blue ones on the left and the three individual MCB switches). I actually have had two of the old storage boxes already removed from the walls and the holes filled in and papered over by workmen, but I still have 6 of the switches (covered in plates) left around the house. No cables on the walls near the meter have been cut or removed at all. We will not be turning on the switches on the old storage heater board at all as they are no longer used (storage heaters replaced by gas central heating). Surely if they were live, and switched on in the future by a workman of some kind, it would cause a problem with the power going through (if still live) the two areas where the 2 storage boxes/switches have already been removed, as well, wouldn't it (not just for the remaining 6 switches)? Thank you.
Sophiasky

Not too sure now. From what I can see, all of the switches have been … Not too sure now. From what I can see, all of the switches have been turned off (the two big blue ones on the left and the three individual MCB switches). I actually have had two of the old storage boxes already removed from the walls and the holes filled in and papered over by workmen, but I still have 6 of the switches (covered in plates) left around the house. No cables on the walls near the meter have been cut or removed at all. We will not be turning on the switches on the old storage heater board at all as they are no longer used (storage heaters replaced by gas central heating). Surely if they were live, and switched on in the future by a workman of some kind, it would cause a problem with the power going through (if still live) the two areas where the 2 storage boxes/switches have already been removed, as well, wouldn't it (not just for the remaining 6 switches)? Thank you.




If you can remove the cover from the redundant storage heater consumer unit you will be able to see if the workmen have removed the cables from the mcb's.

It will have either cables still connected into the top of the mcb's like below or hopefully will be empty, in which case you can have no problems in removing the old switches.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ4WDIxNQ==/z/P3gAAOxyBotTaRzN/$_118.JPG

if the electrician has checked it and said its dead then most likleky the live wire in the consumer unit have been disconnected from the mcbs. this is the common practice than remove the whole box and wires. if so just mix some one coat plaster thick and push the plaster into the box with a scraper should fill the hole. once the plaster is in the hole let it set for around 20 mins (make sure the plaster is over the size of the hole), then spray a bit of water and smooth it over with a flat scraper. make sure its not live we like u to live to tell the ending.
Original Poster
transit

If you can remove the cover from the redundant storage heater consumer … If you can remove the cover from the redundant storage heater consumer unit you will be able to see if the workmen have removed the cables from the mcb's.It will have either cables still connected into the top of the mcb's like below or hopefully will be empty, in which case you can have no problems in removing the old switches.



Hello again, well I took the cover off of the box for the old storage heaters and had a look. For the big main (blue coloured) power switch on the left (think your picture shows the red ones), which is turned off, there are still two big grey cables attached to it. However, for the 3 mcbs on the other side, there are no cables at all attached to the top - where you have the green and blue coloured 'bar' at the top in your picture there seem to be leftovers of wires that have been snipped off. Does this mean that the storage heater sockets are definitely not live then (and if the blue switch is switched on, no power will be going to the old storage heater boxes)? Thank you again.
Original Poster
kash2013

if the electrician has checked it and said its dead then most likleky the … if the electrician has checked it and said its dead then most likleky the live wire in the consumer unit have been disconnected from the mcbs. this is the common practice than remove the whole box and wires. if so just mix some one coat plaster thick and push the plaster into the box with a scraper should fill the hole. once the plaster is in the hole let it set for around 20 mins (make sure the plaster is over the size of the hole), then spray a bit of water and smooth it over with a flat scraper. make sure its not live we like u to live to tell the ending.



Thank you for the advice, will check on my previous query before I attempt this.
Sophiasky

Hello again, well I took the cover off of the box for the old storage … Hello again, well I took the cover off of the box for the old storage heaters and had a look. For the big main (blue coloured) power switch on the left (think your picture shows the red ones), which is turned off, there are still two big grey cables attached to it. However, for the 3 mcbs on the other side, there are no cables at all attached to the top - where you have the green and blue coloured 'bar' at the top in your picture there seem to be leftovers of wires that have been snipped off. Does this mean that the storage heater sockets are definitely not live then (and if the blue switch is switched on, no power will be going to the old storage heater boxes)? Thank you again.



Hi, what you have described is what i wanted to hear, even if someone did switch your consumer unit back on there are not outgoing circuits still connected to the mcb's - so all redundant heater points cannot ever become live.

Like advised by others just fill the holes up using plaster or some ready mixed polyfilla

Original Poster
transit

Hi, what you have described is what i wanted to hear, even if someone did … Hi, what you have described is what i wanted to hear, even if someone did switch your consumer unit back on there are not outgoing circuits still connected to the mcb's - so all redundant heater points cannot ever become live.Like advised by others just fill the holes up using plaster or some ready mixed polyfilla




Thank you all for so much help over this, especially 'transit', much appreciated. This 'ask' forum is really good, found out so much information, etc, because of it, will be using it again in the future no doubt.
Sophiasky

Thank you all for so much help over this, especially 'transit', much … Thank you all for so much help over this, especially 'transit', much appreciated. This 'ask' forum is really good, found out so much information, etc, because of it, will be using it again in the future no doubt.



Hi Sophiaasky,

It does sound like the heater supplies have been disconnected. If you have taken the lid off of the heater consumer unit it would be good if you could take some pictures showing the top and bottom of the MCB's (switches) and post them on here just to be 100% sure ? You want to be certain everything has been disconnected and has no chance of being powered before plastering over the boxes.
Sophiasky

Thank you all for so much help over this, especially 'transit', much … Thank you all for so much help over this, especially 'transit', much appreciated. This 'ask' forum is really good, found out so much information, etc, because of it, will be using it again in the future no doubt.



You're welcome, the reason i had to ask you so many questions is because i make my living as an electrician............... normally i avoid these threads but i wasn't happy the advice given was 100% safe in the electrical world.
Original Poster
Just an update - two socket boxes successfully removed and the holes filled. Thank you.
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