Repointing a patio advice /recommending

17
Found 20th May 2016
I am looking to repoint my patio can anyone recommend a dry mix that won't need re doing in a couple of years i want ready mix so it all looks and turns out the same thanks in advance
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I asked a question about repointing the other day. You might find the answer there? hotukdeals.com/tag…875
simple to do, scrape out existing joints mix 3 sand to one cement dry mix and simply brush in at a 45° angle, spray lightly with water the dampness at night will take care of the rest, job done.
If you measure the mix accurately and use the same sand and cement the colour will be the same

simple to do, scrape out existing joints mix 3 sand to one cement dry mix … simple to do, scrape out existing joints mix 3 sand to one cement dry mix and simply brush in at a 45° angle, spray lightly with water the dampness at night will take care of the rest, job done.



This!! Done it last year and works a treat, I brushed out the gaps in mine, sprayed with weed killer the day before and brushed in the mix on a good dry day. Ideally you don't want it too hot or sunny or the msi could crack but mine looks great. Run he rounded end of a brush shaft over the joints before setting and it's a top job.
If you don't want to be re-pointing in a couple of years, I would suggest you Don't re-point using this method.( Now wait-for all the hukd's building experts to shoot me down )Firstly establish why your pointing has failed, is your paving loose, because any paving will need to be rebeded, on a solid motor bed, not dot and dab as the diy's will have you believe. Remember the pointing is the weakest part of the patio, so may well crack and break up due to movement, so depending on size, maybe an expansion joint may be required, you can get silicon in most colours now, or maybe it was just pointed using the dry method. The problems are that dry brushing in doesn't really provide a well filled, strong and lasting joint. It fills the joint in a light and airy makeup,( eventually providing a nice easy home for weeds) and sets when you spray water on top, this can also be difficult as any of the cement rich mixture can splash and spill on the now damp paving, causing stains. What would help would be striking the joints, that is pushing down on the mix with a tool like a jointing iron, compacting it , then re- topping the joint, this will help, but I still wouldn't recommend it, as you have said you want it to last. There are several better techniques, but as with most things in life, take longer and do require a little more skill. Wet grouting, slurry grouting, poured grouting, gun grouting, or the method I would use, hand pointing and I would put plasticiser in the mix. Pm if you want any advise, because a lot depends on your paving material, cheers
Ps, use a tub of some description to measure out 3 tubs of sand to 1tub of cement, to keep the colour consistent, hopefully for when you use the hand pointing method. I can't actually believe anyone would recommend the dry mix method, as you have said you want it to last, especially Rabs1, the Hukd building guru LOL, who somehow always childishly gives my comments two negative feedbacks, because he can't stand being proved wrong, happy days.
I was advised today to get a product called weather point ,but it is £35 a tub and i may need 3 so could be pricey but i don'r fancy mixing just because i don't believe it will last . so it looks like a ready mix

I was advised today to get a product called weather point ,but it is £35 … I was advised today to get a product called weather point ,but it is £35 a tub and i may need 3 so could be pricey but i don'r fancy mixing just because i don't believe it will last . so it looks like a ready mix



You are correct. Its always best to use ready mixed stuff especially if you hate diy or want to take more time & attention for a proper job.

However, if you mix your own dry mix, there is nothing wrong with that if you get it right.

As explained earlier as well if using a dry mix I wouldnt leave it to nature either because I would soak it with a hosepipe & brush up immediately. Job done.
marky mark

Ps, use a tub of some description to measure out 3 tubs of sand to 1tub … Ps, use a tub of some description to measure out 3 tubs of sand to 1tub of cement, to keep the colour consistent, hopefully for when you use the hand pointing method. I can't actually believe anyone would recommend the dry mix method, as you have said you want it to last, especially Rabs1, the Hukd building guru LOL, who somehow always childishly gives my comments two negative feedbacks, because he can't stand being proved wrong, happy days.



​wow, just this minute looked at this thread again, and absolutely amazed that you think I am that petty enough to have down voted you, well here you go have another 2 down votes
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Rabs1, you could cause an argument in an empty room, I try to give accurate advise based on experience gained from having been in the building industry a very long time. Every time you give advise on building, to me it seems incorrect, costly and mostly pointless. Why would you advise this dry method,as you did on a similar thread, when it's obvious there are underlying problems. Dry pointing on slabs that are moving, you might as well just fill the joints with sand. You have to sort out the underlying issues first, before you could even consider this method. As I have said, there are far superior and stronger, longer lasting ways to point. Yes this is quick and easy, but they have asked for a job that will last, this will not, the only time I would or even consider this diy way, is when the paving has just been layed, so the mortar bed is still wet and so the dry joint mix can still bind with the mortar bed, giving it a better chance, but even then I would strike the joints as well, and you will never get a nice looking finish like you can by hand pointing. I don't understand how someone who a little while ago, was asking advise on how to change a garage into a bedroom, has suddenly become this building professor. You remember your advise when someone wanted a cheap drive, dig out 20" , to allow for a minimum of 12" of base, 2 " of screed grit and an 80 MM block pavier, and said I was wrong for saying a membrane should lay between subsoil and sub-base and signed of by calling me a cowboy. Dry.-pointing! Pot , kettle and black springs to mind. I suggest you read into things a little further, or get better advise, before giving your inaccurate buliding advise to others. Now if you still need advise on that conversion, just ask me, no problem. Now for the negative feedback , lol........
My advice would be to use mainly sharp sand and to add SBR
marky mark

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Rabs1, you could cause an argument in an empty room, I … Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Rabs1, you could cause an argument in an empty room, I try to give accurate advise based on experience gained from having been in the building industry a very long time. Every time you give advise on building, to me it seems incorrect, costly and mostly pointless. Why would you advise this dry method,as you did on a similar thread, when it's obvious there are underlying problems. Dry pointing on slabs that are moving, you might as well just fill the joints with sand. You have to sort out the underlying issues first, before you could even consider this method. As I have said, there are far superior and stronger, longer lasting ways to point. Yes this is quick and easy, but they have asked for a job that will last, this will not, the only time I would or even consider this diy way, is when the paving has just been layed, so the mortar bed is still wet and so the dry joint mix can still bind with the mortar bed, giving it a better chance, but even then I would strike the joints as well, and you will never get a nice looking finish like you can by hand pointing. I don't understand how someone who a little while ago, was asking advise on how to change a garage into a bedroom, has suddenly become this building professor. You remember your advise when someone wanted a cheap drive, dig out 20" , to allow for a minimum of 12" of base, 2 " of screed grit and an 80 MM block pavier, and said I was wrong for saying a membrane should lay between subsoil and sub-base and signed of by calling me a cowboy. Dry.-pointing! Pot , kettle and black springs to mind. I suggest you read into things a little further, or get better advise, before giving your inaccurate buliding advise to others. Now if you still need advise on that conversion, just ask me, no problem. Now for the negative feedback , lol........



​think you will find out you called me out in this thread, and please show me where op states that their slabs are moving, you assumed that. Op asked a question about a dry mix I answered and yet i give expensive advice. You are a joke mate all I can say is I really must've p**ssed you off for you to trawl through my threads.
No what annoyed me is being called a cowboy, by someone like you, who's advise is incorrect and costly. I only give advise when I'm sure my building experience will benefit, the advise I have seen you give will not. You quoted this method on a previous thread, see link at top of this thread, where they CLEARLY state their slabs are wobbly and moving, yet your advise is to brush in a dry mix. WRONG WRONG WRONG, read my reasons above and hopefully you will understand why. Are you in the building trade at all? Looking through your previous threads gave me a fairly large clue, asking for advise on a simple garage conversion me thinks not. Your advise on the driveway was quite frankly ridiculous, unnecessary and very very expensive. Now I'm all for people helping others and giving advise on here, it's a community after all, but as I believe I have proved your advise to be incorrect, and you call me a take the money and run cowboy, well yes I will call you out, and try and stop people wasting their time and money taking advise that is wrong, anyway rant over,you have a lovely day now.
marky mark

No what annoyed me is being called a cowboy, by someone like you, who's … No what annoyed me is being called a cowboy, by someone like you, who's advise is incorrect and costly. I only give advise when I'm sure my building experience will benefit, the advise I have seen you give will not. You quoted this method on a previous thread, see link at top of this thread, where they CLEARLY state their slabs are wobbly and moving, yet your advise is to brush in a dry mix. WRONG WRONG WRONG, read my reasons above and hopefully you will understand why. Are you in the building trade at all? Looking through your previous threads gave me a fairly large clue, asking for advise on a simple garage conversion me thinks not. Your advise on the driveway was quite frankly ridiculous, unnecessary and very very expensive. Now I'm all for people helping others and giving advise on here, it's a community after all, but as I believe I have proved your advise to be incorrect, and you call me a take the money and run cowboy, well yes I will call you out, and try and stop people wasting their time and money taking advise that is wrong, anyway rant over,you have a lovely day now.



​lol, if you say it, it must be true and yes I think you are a cowboy as some of the advice in the driveway thread was laughable l(will give you this you have strong copy and paste skills) and in the other thread you say it will be expensive, how hard is it to lift a few loose slabs and re-bed them and repoint them? c'mon. I care not one bit what you think as my work speaks for itself and the fact and I am never out of work backs this up. I won't spam up this thread the same as last one. I look forward to you stalking me.
At last we agree on something,let's stop spamming up the tread. But......As said I'm not stalking you, just warning people about your poor advise. Don't remember in the previous thread about you advising the op to re bed the slabs, just brush in the dry mix, and you think it will last Lol. Who's the cowboy now. As for the driveway thread, I challenged your quantity calculations and told you to explain...... Still waiting....cowboy alert....Now yes, my pc skills are poor at best, hence I will not be giving advise to others on such subjects, there is nothing worse than someone giving I'll advise, oops no harm intended mate, lol. Yes I'm sure your work speaks for itself, speaks? Nah probably screaming, like the poor recipients. Never out of work wow, what a great reference. We'll have to take your word on that one....anyway, keep on posting, I will just have to keep on correcting. Oh could you quote me for a drive, I want a minimum of 12" of sub base, then could you lay a membrane on top of this, not underneath, then a screed with an industrial 80 MM block pavier on top, for a domestic drive, cheers YEEHAA.
marky mark

At last we agree on something,let's stop spamming up the tread. … At last we agree on something,let's stop spamming up the tread. But......As said I'm not stalking you, just warning people about your poor advise. Don't remember in the previous thread about you advising the op to re bed the slabs, just brush in the dry mix, and you think it will last Lol. Who's the cowboy now. As for the driveway thread, I challenged your quantity calculations and told you to explain...... Still waiting....cowboy alert....Now yes, my pc skills are poor at best, hence I will not be giving advise to others on such subjects, there is nothing worse than someone giving I'll advise, oops no harm intended mate, lol. Yes I'm sure your work speaks for itself, speaks? Nah probably screaming, like the poor recipients. Never out of work wow, what a great reference. We'll have to take your word on that one....anyway, keep on posting, I will just have to keep on correcting. Oh could you quote me for a drive, I want a minimum of 12" of sub base, then could you lay a membrane on top of this, not underneath, then a screed with an industrial 80 MM block pavier on top, for a domestic drive, cheers YEEHAA.



​lol
Stop spamming up this thread, you know we will get banned lol
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