Sanding down gloss before applying a water-based satinwood paint

13
Found 24th Feb 2017
I need to sand down some white gloss sills and skirting before applying a water-based satinwood paint (Johnstones - which is self-undercoating). I've just spent about 15 minutes sanding down one window sill (with a medium grade - 70 - sandpaper), however, after rinsing it off, there is still a sheen on the paint - does every single bit of sheen have to be removed for the water-based satinwood paint to stick? Somebody suggested using a product by Bin Zinsser first, however, it is quite expensive and I can't stretch to that now after buying a new sofa, carpet, wallpaper, paint, etc. Does all of the sheen have to be removed, and/or is there a cheaper product than Bin Zinsser that I can use which means that you do not actually have to sand off the gloss paint? Thank you.

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13 Comments

If you want the new paint to take properly then you will need to go back almost to the original surface, sanding to that degree will take for ever, There won't be a " quick fix " for your problem, its going to take lots of elbow grease, as a suggestion have you considered using paint stripper ?, that may be a better way to go.

Original Poster

wayners

Use zinnser bin to Undercoat then johnstones satinwood waterbased to top … Use zinnser bin to Undercoat then johnstones satinwood waterbased to top off. Screwfix item. Zinsser 29661



I bought the Johnstones paint that you suggested. I've tried sanding down the gloss on a window sill and there is still a sheen, so will give in and buy the Zinsser Bin you recommended. Can you paint the Zinsser Bin straight on to the gloss painted sills and skirting, or do I have to still sand them down a bit? Also, would sugar soap wipes (I have a container full at home) be ok to wipe the gloss surfaces down before applying the Zinsser Bin, or would the sugar soap cause a barrier for the Zinsser Bin to stick? Thank you.

Sugar soap is a chemical cleaner which is used to clean prior to painting. It's not really a soap. Soap products can stop paint sticking well. I use wet and dry sand paper.... Dip in warm water.. Wet...I use 100 - 120 grade to rub down. No dust! Zinnser will stick fine if you don't rub down though.

Original Poster

wayners

Sugar soap is a chemical cleaner which is used to clean prior to … Sugar soap is a chemical cleaner which is used to clean prior to painting. It's not really a soap. Soap products can stop paint sticking well. I use wet and dry sand paper.... Dip in warm water.. Wet...I use 100 - 120 grade to rub down. No dust! Zinnser will stick fine if you don't rub down though.



Would it be ok then to just clean the skirting, etc with the sugar soap first? I'll be popping along to collect this later today from Screwfix, but can you tell me if this product has a strong chemical smell and should the window be open when using it? Thank you for all of your help, you have been really helpful.

Go and buy yourself a heatgun: screwfix.com/p/e…740 it'll save you so much time!

You would be better off using a cheap spiirit based gloss and then when it's touch dry wipe it over with a cloth damped with white spirits this will knock the shine back and leave a smooth finish. Bare in mind although you may cover the old paint it will still be breathing and so you may find your water based paint will crack in 3-6 months.
Edited by: "4TheMenyNotTheFew" 24th Feb 2017

Sophiasky

Would it be ok then to just clean the skirting, etc with the sugar soap … Would it be ok then to just clean the skirting, etc with the sugar soap first? I'll be popping along to collect this later today from Screwfix, but can you tell me if this product has a strong chemical smell and should the window be open when using it? Thank you for all of your help, you have been really helpful.



​Dries fast as evaporates really quickly. Yes open windows as smells of solvents. Methylated spirits will clean off but not white spirit. Don't bother trying to clean brush. It's quite thin but needs a good stir before use as the solids settle at the bottom sometimes. Decant zinnser in something,don't use out of tin or it with get bits in it that will break up and look naff. Just go for it with a thin coat. Don't put on think and don't go back over to quickly. Will be touch dry in 30mins and fully dry in 2 hours

Wow, I can't believe some of the answers on here. The OP only wishes to freshen up some skirting boards and some cills. Looking at some of the replies on here makes me wonder if any of you have actually done any painting in your lives or if you have I dread to think what it looks like. OK OP here is a proper answer.

Providing your woodwork is in decent condition there is no need for paint stripper, heatguns, sand blasting or whatever else. Unfortunately you have bought a water based paint. Personally I don't like as it seems to lack depth of a traditional oil based paint and is less durable. However it dries quick, you can wash your brushes in water and as it doesn't have the solvents that oil based paints do, it should stay white longer. There is no need for sugar soap unless the existing surface is greasy, i.e. a kitchen or either you or the previous occupiers smoked. Disgusting habit. Here is what you need to do.

Give the woodwork a quick wipe over
Give the woodwork a light sand. You only need to scratch the surface. Doesn't matter if it's still a bit shiny proving there are even small scratches on it the paint will key.
Wipe again after light sanding. I always hoover mine as well
Paint

As I said I don't like water based paints. My car has a water based paint on it. It's soft and chips easily. It's very rare that I sand anything before I paint. I use a scotchbrite, oil based undercoat followed by oil based Crown Satinwood. Stays white for years.

I did my whole house 2 years ago with the Johnstones aqua. Superb stuff, easy to apply, quick to dry, no fumes, easy clean for brushes etc, hard wearing and most importantly, stays brilliant white.

I just sanded the previous gloss to make a key and painted. Looks great. No need with all this rubbing back to the original surface etc,

Original Poster

wayners

​Dries fast as evaporates really quickly. Yes open windows as smells of s … ​Dries fast as evaporates really quickly. Yes open windows as smells of solvents. Methylated spirits will clean off but not white spirit. Don't bother trying to clean brush. It's quite thin but needs a good stir before use as the solids settle at the bottom sometimes. Decant zinnser in something,don't use out of tin or it with get bits in it that will break up and look naff. Just go for it with a thin coat. Don't put on think and don't go back over to quickly. Will be touch dry in 30mins and fully dry in 2 hours



I painted the skirting and window sills last night with the Zinsser Bin first, followed by one coat of the Johnstone's water-based paint that you recommended. So pleased, it really worked and the Zinsser Bin was so easy to paint on. I'll be using these two products again in the future. Just one question, did you use two coats of the Johnstone's paint over the Zinsser Bin (mine is white/yellow gloss paint underneath) - if so, did you have to lightly sand the first coat of Johnstones paint before adding another coat? The paint looks fine, except for 3 small blemishes/sharp dots on the window sills - it looks like 3 dots and when you touch them they feel a bit sharp. I don't know if it is ok to lightly sand these bits off or not and just repaint that small area, or if the whole sill will need a second coat - any ideas, please? Thank you.

1 or 2 coats, if 1 looks good then leave it. Water based paint takes a few days to harden off so sanding can damage and make a mess, it's soft. Maybe 400 grade just on the bits and give it all another coat.. You have to make that call. I have just used my finger to to dab paint on marks. You can get blemishes in the final finish as it's not always perfect as you are doing by hand, so you may feel better to leave and accept.
Edited by: "wayners" 26th Feb 2017

Original Poster

wayners

1 or 2 coats, if 1 looks good then leave it. Water based paint takes a … 1 or 2 coats, if 1 looks good then leave it. Water based paint takes a few days to harden off so sanding can damage and make a mess, it's soft. Maybe 400 grade just on the bits and give it all another coat.. You have to make that call. I have just used my finger to to dab paint on marks. You can get blemishes in the final finish as it's not always perfect as you are doing by hand, so you may feel better to leave and accept.



I think I will just leave it then - well impressed with that Zinsser Bin, well worth paying out for. Going to start putting up my polystyrene coving today. My new carpet is being put down tomorrow and wanted to have all of the painting done (ceiling, skirting and window sills are now done), but I will need to paint the coving. Do you know if I can caulk the gaps and paint it all the same day as putting it up - I'm going to use No More Nails to stick it up. Would I use the matt white paint that I used for the ceiling and would it cover ok - just wondering if the polystyrene would absorb it all? Thank you.

Don't use solvent glue. Use the no more nails solvent free or the polystyrene may melt. Caulk takes a few days to dry so painting on it to soon will cause cracking and crazing. Best leave and paint for after carpet is down. Get some plastic and use Masking tap around edges, throws sheets down on top. Finish the painting later and don't rush it. It's not a problem if all you have left is the coving to paint. Good emulsion is fine on the coving when it's all hardened off
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