Swapping a HD with a SSD drive

22
Found 30th Jan
My current desktop PC has a SSD drive (running Windows 10 and my softwares) and an internal HD drive for data. I have just purchased a second hand desktop that comes with a 640gb HD, this is a slimline case, so no room for 2 drives. I want to swap the HD with my SSD and then i will use the HD drives (mine and new one) as external drive using a caddy. Is it just a matter of disconnecting the HD from my new PC, and fitting my SSD and firing up kind of process? TIA
Community Updates
22 Comments
Are you sure there's no room? SSDs are really light and I just put them wherever unsecured.

As to your question, pretty much though you should really go into your bios and make sure it's on AHCI.
Original Poster
bryanhaines3997 m ago

Are you sure there's no room? SSDs are really light and I just put them …Are you sure there's no room? SSDs are really light and I just put them wherever unsecured.As to your question, pretty much though you should really go into your bios and make sure it's on AHCI.



OK thanks, i will check the Bios. It's a lenovo case, so it's pretty small, no bay for adding any peripheral that I can see, there is already a DVD drive. It's one of this case that you open and the front flips open so that you can access your drive.
jeannot189 m ago

OK thanks, i will check the Bios. It's a lenovo case, so it's pretty …OK thanks, i will check the Bios. It's a lenovo case, so it's pretty small, no bay for adding any peripheral that I can see, there is already a DVD drive. It's one of this case that you open and the front flips open so that you can access your drive.


The ssd is mounted under the dvd drive with a mounting bracket. You can build a cheap plastic mounting plate for the ssd and sticky Velcro it in. You probably need power and data though.
Transferring a windows install between hardware is asking for trouble. If it doesn't just bluescreen (which is rarer than it used to be) then it can cause hard to track down problems. I wouldn't suggest it for long term use.

Either doing a fresh install or cloning the existing drive is the way to go.
Shouldn't be an issue to physically fit the existing SSD to the later desktop, but you may need to consider Windows licensing and different chipset / base hardware issues. If you are tech-savvy you will be able to accommodate those considerations, but if not there will be peeps here on HUKD that will be helpful and assist.
Original Poster
Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced it with SSD. When I boot it goes to error message saying. "Client MAC Addr xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx DHCP... / (Spinning slash). I went into bios, changed the SATA configuration to AHCI instead of IDE. Boot sequence is Samsung SSD, data 2 DVD, network 1: Realtek. I don't know what else to look at.
PS: the Windows 10 version on my SSD is legit, I bought it from
you need to clone HDD to SSD first, then swap them.
jeannot1815 m ago

Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced …Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced it with SSD. When I boot it goes to error message saying. "Client MAC Addr xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx DHCP... / (Spinning slash). I went into bios, changed the SATA configuration to AHCI instead of IDE. Boot sequence is Samsung SSD, data 2 DVD, network 1: Realtek. I don't know what else to look at.PS: the Windows 10 version on my SSD is legit, I bought it from


DHCP and MAC address would suggest for some reason it's trying to boot off your network which you say is 3rd in sequence. Sometimes when you order the devices there's another option which details only the main boot device or something like that (my recollection is a bit vague but I remember having problems getting my PC to boot from the device I wanted which should be easy and obvious). I'd suggest deselecting the network option from the boot sequence, I've never used that and possibly requires your network to be set up in a specific manner.
Edited by: "bryanhaines399" 30th Jan
Original Poster
But SSD has already Windows 10 that was using on my current PC. Plus my SSD has already all my software. I don't want to clone the contents of the HDD as it will wipe what I have got in my
jeannot1824 m ago

Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced …Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced it with SSD. When I boot it goes to error message saying. "Client MAC Addr xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx DHCP... / (Spinning slash). I went into bios, changed the SATA configuration to AHCI instead of IDE. Boot sequence is Samsung SSD, data 2 DVD, network 1: Realtek. I don't know what else to look at.PS: the Windows 10 version on my SSD is legit, I bought it from


Just noticed your comment about Windows already being on the SSD and reread your original post. You may have a problem ooting from that installation as it's configured with the hardware in the PC you took it from and not the new one. If it works make sure and update all the drivers, if not you used to be able to install windows over an old installation which would keep all your user settings, installed software, etc. but set up windows again with requisite drivers etc. I don't know if you can still do that, it was a long time ago the last time I did.
Original Poster
If I deselect it, it comes with error 1962 operating system not
jeannot1817 m ago

If I deselect it, it comes with error 1962 operating system not


You may want to put your SSD back in the PC you took it from, then clone it so you have a recovery point. That would allow you to try doing an install over your current install if you wanted to try that.

As to the error, if the donor pc didn't have AHCI set, this could be your problem, so set it back to IDE and if you have a legacy first setting go for UEFI first.
Edited by: "bryanhaines399" 30th Jan
jeannot182 h, 1 m ago

Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced …Typing from my phone as PC is not working. I removed the HDD and replaced it with SSD. When I boot it goes to error message saying. "Client MAC Addr xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx DHCP... / (Spinning slash). I went into bios, changed the SATA configuration to AHCI instead of IDE. Boot sequence is Samsung SSD, data 2 DVD, network 1: Realtek. I don't know what else to look at.PS: the Windows 10 version on my SSD is legit, I bought it from


Back to basics: it is unlikely your SSD will boot in a machine that has different hardware to the original machine. You have a few options, but to simplify(?) those options consider this procedure:
1) refit SSD to original machine and ensure all is working well / tweak until all is working well.
2) create or otherwise obtain a bootable version of imaging software that has the feature of providing restoration to disssimlilar hardware. Examples of such software may be specific versions of Macruim Reflect Free (the Home version allows "Bare metal restore to dissimilar hardware" and is zero cost macrium.com/ref…ree) or Acronis True Image (check cost acronis.com/en-…up/).
3) use the disk imaging software to create a single image file of the contents of the functional SSD to be saved on another drive connected to the original machine.
4) check the network controller of the new machine and ideally obtain / export the appropriate windows 10 drivers for it.
5) remove the SSD from original machine and fit SSD to new machine.
6) remove the storage disk containing the image file and attach it to the new machine (note the word "attach" cos it doesn't need to be permanently fitted; it is only required for the period of image restoration in step 8 9).
7) set AHCI as required on new machine
8 ) set the boot priority on the new machine to be the device that contains the bootable version of the imaging software (so DVD drive if using bootable DVD, or USB if using bootable USB).
9) use the bootable version of the imaging software to restore the saved image to the SSD.
10) when the image is restored, reboot the new machine and change the boot priortity to the SSD.
11) watch w10 struggle to load drivers for the new hardware. If necessary, load the previously obtained network controller drivers to allow the new machine to access the net.
12) check if you need to jump through hoops to re-licence your previously licenced w10 installation.
13) consider if all the faffing about is worthwhile.
14) consider if step 13 should be step 1.
Edited by: "AndyRoyd" 30th Jan
AndyRoyd13 m ago

12) check if you need to jump through hoops to re-licence your previously …12) check if you need to jump through hoops to re-licence your previously licenced w10 installation


Oh that's a good point, the digital license will most likely recognise that all of the other hardware being different means it isn't the same PC so not valid.
Original Poster
I swapped back the SSD to my computer, and now the screen won't come when I boot the PC, by the way I am using a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard ( which I thought could be an issue with my new PC). I can hear the windows welcome sound and the PC is running, it just that the screen don't come on. It has the Acer logo on if I switch it off and and on, but it's not recognising the PC. Any ideas? Just about to pull my
jeannot1817 m ago

I swapped back the SSD to my computer, and now the screen won't come when …I swapped back the SSD to my computer, and now the screen won't come when I boot the PC, by the way I am using a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard ( which I thought could be an issue with my new PC). I can hear the windows welcome sound and the PC is running, it just that the screen don't come on. It has the Acer logo on if I switch it off and and on, but it's not recognising the PC. Any ideas? Just about to pull my


w10 "Windows welcome sound"? Interesting. Regardless: excuse if obvious: check cable that connects PC to monitor, probably best to disconnect and reconnect. If still no joy, power everything down; check video card and RAM for solid connection to socket(s) - again, may be worth reseating the card and RAM just to be sure. Power on. Any joy? If not, is Acer the make of the monitor or PC? Or both?
Original Poster
Did all that and still not coming on. I think it's the Bluetooth keyboard and mouse playing up. I need to try to get hold of a normal keyboard and mouse and try that
Original Poster
Acer for monitor, zoomstorm for Regarding swapping the drive I'm thinking doing a
Original Poster
UPDATE: I connected my new computer to my monitor, bluetooth keyboard and mouse and it's working (i am typing from it right now). I have ordered a cheap wired keyboard and mouse and I will try this with my old PC to discard a problem with the bluetooth one. I still want to swap over my SSD drive onto the new PC. I may try to find some local help, it's probably very easy to do but i don't want to mess it up again
There is one big, BIG issue - if one system is using conventional BIOS and the other is UEFI (or even just EFI).
BIOS requires the disk to be in MBR partition format, UEFI requires it to be in GPT format.

There are tools which can convert, but can be somewhat limited in free versions - typically not permitting the operation on a system disk.
RIP out the dvd drive and use the connections on the ssd. You can buy drive caddies to fit in if you want to keep it tidy. You can probably find an external caddy for the dvd drive, which does need as much data throughput and connect it using usb.
Original Poster
OK i have found a local IT repair guy that can do it for £30, putting in the SSD and keeping the HD as a secondary. I would prefer to do it myself, but to save myself from a possible massive headache, I am quite happy with this option. Thanks people
Edited by: "jeannot18" 31st Jan
Post a comment
Avatar
@
    Text

    Top Discussions