upgrading water and central heating programmer

22
Found 26th Nov 2015
Hi guys
I currently have a honeywell programmeer which I can select to have set for once twice or continuous. Problem is it has to be the same for water and c/h and we dont need hot water too much. Looking around I found the Drayton LP722 for £51.99.

Was wondering if that was a good choice or if there's a better choice out there for me.

Thanks in advance
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It may not be that simple. The system set up maybe gravity hot water so changing programmer won't solve this. How old is heating system?
MIKEOK

It may not be that simple. The system set up maybe gravity hot water so … It may not be that simple. The system set up maybe gravity hot water so changing programmer won't solve this. How old is heating system?


This I don't know unfortunately. Where's the best place to check?
I find the ST9400 from Honeywell to be the best twin channel programmer, can be had for ~£40 on ebay. You need to make sure you can have independent heating & hot water first.

On very old systems often the boiler will only heat up when hot water is selected, the heating program just tells the pump to turn on. Alternatively it could just be an idiot installer who fitted the system or wired the controls.
themorgatron

I find the ST9400 from Honeywell to be the best twin channel programmer, … I find the ST9400 from Honeywell to be the best twin channel programmer, can be had for ~£40 on ebay. You need to make sure you can have independent heating & hot water first.On very old systems often the boiler will only heat up when hot water is selected, the heating program just tells the pump to turn on. Alternatively it could just be an idiot installer who fitted the system or wired the controls.


It's a potterton suprema 60L and honeywell st699 programmer. A beige version with orange and brown writing
Do you have access to your hot water cylinder?
MIKEOK

Do you have access to your hot water cylinder?


Yes. I do. It's next to the programmer in my son's rooms wardrobe.
Have a look in the cupboard. Does it have a valve with 3 pipes and a cable into it. Uploading a photo would be good if possible.
MIKEOK

Have a look in the cupboard. Does it have a valve with 3 pipes and a … Have a look in the cupboard. Does it have a valve with 3 pipes and a cable into it. Uploading a photo would be good if possible.


Looking at the yellow coloured cylinder (which has no jacket on it). It has a sticker saying albion white wolf. And another sticker saying "anode".
It has 1 pipe going in from the top. One going in from the right. And 2 going in from the left.
Close to the 2 from the left is there a valve on this pipe work.
best thing to do is get a plumber in to quote the job and show him or her around. see what they say and which ones they recommend and put your one across to them to. This way u cant really go wrong and it wont cost u anything. Just tell them u want to upgrade ur timer and let them come out and look at it for you.
If only the hot water is on, does the pump hum?

It does sound like it could be a gravity hot water system, it's an older (non condensing) boiler.

Where the two pipes go in, you would find the diverter valve on one of those, box with 3 pipes and a cable.

To convert to fully pumped would be a job for a plumber / heating engineer.

A "halfway hack" would be to add a cylinder thermostat, and set the programmer up as if fully pumped - not possible to override the hot water being heated when the CH is feeding the radiators, but if neither the water nor the heating was demanding heat, the boiler would be off, rather than constantly idling.
matth9999

If only the hot water is on, does the pump hum?It does sound like it … If only the hot water is on, does the pump hum?It does sound like it could be a gravity hot water system, it's an older (non condensing) boiler.Where the two pipes go in, you would find the diverter valve on one of those, box with 3 pipes and a cable.To convert to fully pumped would be a job for a plumber / heating engineer.A "halfway hack" would be to add a cylinder thermostat, and set the programmer up as if fully pumped - not possible to override the hot water being heated when the CH is feeding the radiators, but if neither the water nor the heating was demanding heat, the boiler would be off, rather than constantly idling.



It does state here that it's a non condensing.

homeheatingguide.co.uk/eff…576

Is it going to be big cost for me to change the timer?
I heard somewhere this guy would have his water boiler to go on at 5.59am an off at 6.01am and have c/h run from 6am to 9am.
Ok. last night I set the central heating to twice and hot water off. So today I have no hot water but the house did get hot from central heating in the morning and at 3pm as I have set it. Does that mean I can have the ST9400 as a replacement?
Yes to can but uu may need to wire it up if the 2 back plates are not the same. You can also have the Drayton as u stated earlier.
Edited by: "kash2013" 28th Nov 2015
kash2013

Yes to can but uu may need to wire it up if the 2 back plates are not the … Yes to can but uu may need to wire it up if the 2 back plates are not the same. You can also have the Drayton as u stated earlier.


Which is better. The Drayton lp722 or the st9400?
Either there pretty much the same and not well known brands. Are u changing it yourself. If u get into any issues take a picture of the old back plate with the wiring as it is and I be able to help.
kash2013

Either there pretty much the same and not well known brands. Are u … Either there pretty much the same and not well known brands. Are u changing it yourself. If u get into any issues take a picture of the old back plate with the wiring as it is and I be able to help.



Cheers. I found this on website:
ST699 -- ST9400
L --------------- L
N --------------- N
3 --------------- 4
4 --------------- 2 (There is not normally a wire here)
6 --------------- 3
7 --------------- 1

The wires linking L, 5 and 8 on the ST699 should be discarded.

TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE DOING THE JOB.

Read more: diynot.com/diy…75/
montana78

Cheers. I found this on website:ST699 -- ST9400L --------------- LN … Cheers. I found this on website:ST699 -- ST9400L --------------- LN --------------- N3 --------------- 44 --------------- 2 (There is not normally a wire here)6 --------------- 37 --------------- 1The wires linking L, 5 and 8 on the ST699 should be discarded.TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE DOING THE JOB.Read more: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/honeywell-st699-to-st9400-install.385175/#ixzz3snpeJyfu


yes should be LNE (LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH) mains coming in and L HOT WATER & L CENTRAL HEATING OUTPUTS. goodluck
kash2013

yes should be LNE (LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH) mains coming in and L HOT WATER … yes should be LNE (LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH) mains coming in and L HOT WATER & L CENTRAL HEATING OUTPUTS. goodluck



Why is the st699 more expensive than the st9400 by the way?
montana78

Why is the st699 more expensive than the st9400 by the way?


No idea really as they both do the same thing. From experience i have noticed the old fashion replacements which are easier to use go for a lot more through every manufacturer. It maybe due to few sales so higher productivity costs.

yes should be LNE (LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH) mains coming in and L HOT WATER … yes should be LNE (LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH) mains coming in and L HOT WATER & L CENTRAL HEATING OUTPUTS. goodluck


My friend came down to visit. I got him to fit the system for me. He followed these instructions to fit it. All working.

Thanks
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