

Engine Oil Deals & Offers
11 active deals26,616 commentsAll Engine Oil Discounts, Offers and Sale - May 2022


Get Millers Oils. Best bang for the buck in terms of quality.
You're asking the wrong question. It's akin to emptying a box of matches & then asking which one is best for lighting your cigarette?
Which oil comes out tops in those test/reviews? As 5w30 Can't make it out?
Sorry but for the money, this stuff is decidedly ordinary. And 25 ppm of Titanium? Don't make me laugh!! https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/6063-castrol-edge-professional-long-life-iii-5w30-mit-fluid-titanium-technologie-vw-v/
Paid £1 more for 4l at Halfords two days ago - think EuroCarParts were £5 more still! Defo heat if you can wait a couple of days (y)


Agreed, grade and spec more important than price... Used lots of the mannol oil/fluids...
Thank you sir
TBH, modern oils are all much of a muchness these days & they're all over-formulated for most people's everyday needs. If they're comparable in price, just flip a coin. The thing not to do is overpay for expensive oils that bring very little to the table in terms of noticeable performance.
Normally use eurocarparts own brand 5w-40 for petrol. This comparable or any better?
It's Mannol 5W40 sold under one of their three brand names. Probably looks not too dissimilar to this... https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/7251-mannol-elite-5w-40-ester/



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184217193808?hash=item2ae4334d50:g:2PoAAOSwWX1fkt6c I just recently bought a load of oil and service parts (for a Mondeo and Fiesta) direct from their website, the 5 litre oil was £21.95 each + £6.95 delivery for the whole order. So this is a good price.
You know its done right and the money you save can be used towards other things, thats how I look at it.
Yeah. Do myself unless I can find better options. I can and have in the past although don't enjoy it.
Even though I work at a garage I tend to do my own work if possible. The other week I changed my oil, using a good quality oil it cost me less than £25, for a customer even at £60 per hour rates it would have cost me £90 and that would have been using a general oil that most garages use. £20 for a set of brake pads to do myself and I know they are a good brand, how much would a garage charge? for something that took me less than an hour?
Plugs Inc Yeah. Was too much money. Mk4 petrol mondeo

Servicing a car yourself gives a great sense of achievement, keep the receipts and log it in the service book referencing receipt numbers, if I buy a car I always look for this history. The only tricky thing with a service is the sump drain plug, sometimes you get there and find them stripped, other times they are fine and then strip when you replace them, for ease I use a suction pump to drain the oil, also drain it out of the oil filter housing as there can be a fair bit in there. Fuel filters especially on diesels can be a pain, fill the new one up with fresh diesel to reduce air in the system, some need priming with software others don't but Google the car and see, if you get air in there that you can't purge it will never start, and old Calpol type syringe can be useful for sucking the air out of the feed pipe to the filter before connecting.
Self service seems to be gaining momentum. I plan on doing my first self service on my Ford Focus Ecoboost.
BMW LL98 is for BMW spec for 98-2000, VW 505 is for VW Engines up to 2004 pre DPF No DPF in that it'll be fine
Doesn't seem to be true according to: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-acea-car-engine-oils-specification-explained.aspx This stuff is A3/B4. Cheapest stuff (that's more expensive than this) at Halfords for 5w30 is the part synthetic and is only A1/B1. Why do you think this is 'old spec' oil
Ive just bought this to service my 04 Golf GT 2.0tdi BKD. I've decided to service it myself for the first time :o

Could be anything with a new label stuck on the can... ok for old bangers but wouldn't risk in a modern car
I really would avoid this seller, I bought 20 litres of branded Mannol oil and they sent me this Britoil oil (which after research is their own brand/rebranded oil). It seems to be quite common on their reviews that they advertise one brand (in my case it had Mannol pictures and clearly said it was Mannol in the description) but send you their own oil.
Cold for abusing search terms
Stick with manufacturers spec and it’s impossible to go wrong.
£10 off halfords motoring, £5 off £40 opie oils..

Thanks - appreciate the input
Without wanting to get too technical, there's not a great deal of difference between European A3/B4 5W30s & 5W40s. To meet the specs, the 5W30 has to be right at the top end of its permissable viscosity range whereas the 5W40, as often as not, is at the bottom end of its viscosity range (for economic reasons). Bottom line, both 5W30s & 5W40s are fine. Your car will hardly notice the difference. However if you grimace in horror when you fill up the car with petrol, think about using an xx-20 oil. It will yield a couple more mpg & every little helps...
Thank you
Almost certainly. UK climate is such that the small differences in the oil will not be affected. https://services.totalenergies.uk/difference-between-5w30-5w40-engine-oil
Trying to work out the difference between 5W 40 to 5W 30 - Can a car use both? This is substantially cheaper that 5W 30.


I have just bought a 5L V8 Jag and this is the correct spec oil so 9L ordered! Thanks op.

Voted hot in error :/
That looks like a different product.
Terrible price
Sub-zero
Sometimes Tesco has this a lot cheaper


I have used mannol ,fanfaro, pemco oils (all the same stuff from STC lubricants) for years. Sure, if I can get a nicer brand or dealer supplied stuff for better or close money I will. But it's good stuff, like the other guy said. Aslong as it meets recommended specs, your good to go. It's more important to change more frequently than vehicle manufacturers recommend, suggested intervals are usually exaggerated claims to attract fleet owners.
The reason why this is tricky is that they're more marketing terms than anything directly related to the mix of base oils in the oil. There are five classes of base oil which I'll tackle chronologically... Group I oils are the solvent extracted mineral oils that have been around since the 1930s. They're good for 15W40s & 20W50s. They WERE the majority base oil for most 10W40 until about 10 years ago. You can't make 0W or 5W oils with Group Is because they get too thick at low temperatures. They are also horribly unstable. Group V oils are synthetic esters. They were pioneered by the Germans in WW2, primarily for the Luftwaffe. They're brilliant at 30,000 feet where it's really cold. They're also very stable. But...they cost a fortune & aren't widely used today. Group IV oils are synthetic poly alpha olefins. You can make any grade of oil from PAO but they're generally really expensive, so commercially you only find them in 0W-xx oils. Group III oils are severely hydrocracked mineral oils. Zapping mineral oil with high pressure hydrogen takes out the bulk of the nasties, especially the aromatics. Some folks argue that Group IIIs, because they link back to crude oil, are not 'true' synthetics. This is just playing with words. They behave just like synthetics & are way cheaper to manufacture. These oils dominate the 5W-xx market but also commonly find their way into 0W & 10W oils Finally Group II oils are mildly hydrocracked mineral oils. They have the oxidation resistance of Group IIIs but the cold flow properties on Group Is. Group II oils have largely supplanted Group I base oil in many regions of the world, especially in the heavier grades. So in answer to your question... A full synthetic oil is one based on Group III, IV or V oils. That said, it may still contain small percentages of Group I or II oils as diluent oil for the chemicals that go into all oils. If you see 'HC Synthese', or 'Synthetic Technology' on the can it usually means it's a semi-synthetic containing cheaper Group I or II oils as well as the more expensive Group III, IV or V oils. That's probably too much info but I'll leave you with one final thought which simplifies everything...there are NO BAD OILS out there anymore. None! Almost anything you buy these days is good for 10k miles as long as you don't drive your car like a maniac...& who can afford to do that these days!
Can someone TLDR the HC synthese and fully synthetic difference please
More info on this oil here... https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/2x5l-mannol-energy-5w30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-slcf-acea-a3b3-at-ebay-3901630 As you can see, this Mannol oil has already risen in price since March. All engine oils are going up in price & will rise much further as additional costs work their way through the supply chain. Fresh oil lasts forever so I'd recommend you buy a couple of cans & stash them in your garage to meet your medium term needs. Mannol oils are technically okay. I use their 0W20 and it's fine.

I've heard of this problem but never actually seen it myself before. I think what you're describing is an acute case of cerebral crankshaft seizure. The only course of action is to drain the old, spent fluid from the cranial sump & lie down for a long time in a darkened room.
How is not true, it fails pretty much any long test of viscosity. cold flow fail. Loose of properties before promised millage. Black gunk in the pan This oil pretty much destroying engines.
Mate Castrol makes the worst oils for anything. Highly rated dunno where?
Literally this is the second time you've stated this as absolute God given fact when it's not remotely true.
VW have a completely different oil to this, not as tho I would trust them with anything they say. This is motorcycle oil, highly rated and meant for wet clutch systems.

Literally IDENTICAL to every other oil on the market (as is the equivalent one from Asda)...
Literally the worst oil on a market. Would rather use ASDA branded oil than this.
All gone
Can't Add to Basket or Buy it Now
Great spot. For once it’s the recommended oil for our car. Ordered. Thanks.


Spot on and its daft to think that people think that petrol developed by companies spending multimillions in quality control, R&D, engine test beds, developing additives etc will be improved by a bit of red liquid for a couple of quid from a small company who hasn't changed or developed its recipe since the Morris Minor. If the product was any good and made such a big improvement dont people think the petrol companies would add it. You never see "Shall R-Max with added Redex" at the pump. The reason is its doenst work.
yeah except it's still £2 in Asda, ah crap there's the hat trick
That was the hat trick... Redeemed (just) by updating with the additional 1p saving haha
Reduced its now 1.99
Well that's twice it's been stated, let's see who goes for a hat trick!

The more oil your car takes the longer you can go between oil changes, cos there's more oil circulating around the engine to get dirty, hence longer interval oil changes
They are the same company. Lexus and Toyota are just like Audi and Volkswagen.
My car takes 7.5 litres so it's good to have 0.5 litre spare for top ups inbetween
0.1 litre less in your engine certainly won't do any harm. You mean... More like castrol can make more profit by charging the same for less.
Ah!.. Not surprising then!.. Lexus and Toyota share engines.. Toyota are notorious for the 4.1 ltr oil capacity.

Just bought Honda service kit and carried out service and also changed oil on Honda Izy petrol lawnmower. Booklet clearly stated Briggs And Stratton engine but was actually a Honda engine so used the Honda oil instead. lawnmower had been used with B&S oil 0.6l bottle for a few years :D :D Apparently it was printing error in instructions and maintenance booklet Owner says Honda oil is now making lawn mower run better. Remember when servicing your lawnmower to always check oil level ,check air filter and spark plug and change in accordance with manufacturers recommended service intervals. thanks
I use this. Excellent brand, Liqui Moly, for all sorts of stuff, and low price. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001NFNERW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 The description is wrong. "Sweet and nutty flavour..." :o Did wonder if that's why it's cheap. Ordered twice, always got oil, not coffee!
Same here what ever is left from the motorcycle oil change every winter is used for the mower. Never had any problems in 5 years infact it starts easier than when l used straight 30 oil.
Haven't B&S gone pop?
Briggs didn't used to reccomend synthetic, but then they had a change of heart and now they do. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html You can use this link to find the capacity and recommended oil for your particular engine. Given that the lubrication is described as 'splash' (bascially a spoon which throws the oil around) it's not the most sophisticated system around, but it does seem to work just fine.

Same as me. Never had a problem as long as it meta engine manufacturer spec I don't see much of a problem
Used this stuff for as long as I can remember ;) Never a problem.
used this brand plenty of times in my car never noticed a difference between it and castrol or shell etc.
You'll be absolutely fine it's oil snobbery starting
Willingly? I used this brand a while ago, it was ok-ish, my neighbour bought a bottle - spec matching his Mercedes and then the engine started behaving funny and it ended up emitting smoke from his exhaust. I couldn't believe it can be because of this oil but he changed the oil again to the usual one - no problems at all. Since then - I wouldn't touch it with a stick.


Yes I know this is a dead thread but I thought you might be interested in this.... This is series of used oil analyses, done in the US, with the last tests done in 2019. The oil was Castrol Power 1 4-stroke. It says it was a 5W40 but I can't see how this can be correct as the KV100 is way too low. The reason I'm flagging this up is to say... a) this oil is clearly derived from standard car engine oil. I can tell this from the metals in the oil. Magnesium started to get used crankcase oils when GF-5 Plus was introduced around 2018, in response to Low Speed Pre-ignition (LSPI), a problem related to GDI engines b) this nominal motorcycle oil contains 50 ppm of Molybdenum, typically what you'd need as a wear control trim in car engine oils. This sort of bears out what I was wittering on about.
A tenner for 5 litres? I suspect that's gone forever now. Lube oil's only going to go up in price. I've got three cans tucked away in the garage to cover me for the near future. BTW, I used to put recovered oil in my Fiat Mirafiori in the 1980s. It came free, gratis & for nothing from my old man who used to 'liberate it' from where he worked.
My 40 year air cooled 250 needs an oil change every 1k miles or so, I used to buy bog standard refined/ recovered mineral oil, and it wasn't that long ago it was about a tenner for five litres ..... But then again until very recently used to think "the matrix" was a relatively new film ..... Can anyone advise if it's still available or is this just the distant memory of an old man (i.e. this is about as good as it gets for cheap m/c oil)
Typically when you do a low to mid-tier engine oil program, you run it as a so-called matrix. In other words you run one 'actual' test with one oil grade & if it passes, you simply 'read-across' the result to other grades. For example you might run a wear test in a 10W30 then read the pass to thicker grades like 10W40, 15W40, 15W50 & 20W50. Given how horrendously expensive engine testing is, this makes a lot of economic sense. I never really paid that much attention to motorcycle oils as they are very small beer compared to PCMO & HDDO but if customers asked for JASO tests, it was only ever in a 10W30, never other grades. Did they read-across the passing data? I never asked but my guess is they almost certainly did.
Eh??? only usually done for 10w30 grade? I think you'll find the tests done for pretty much every motorcycle oil. To my expense i found you shouldn't have molybdenum in a motorcycle wet clutch as i had to replace all of the friction plates through using the incorrect oil.

Regens are manually forcing your engine at a standstill to over rev for set durations of time. usually done via software tool. This cooks the engine oil and they recommend an oil change post every forced Regen. Once your light comes on I usually drop a can of DPF cleaner in the tank and hit the motorway. takes around 10-15 mins driving at 60-70 mph. 4th or 5th gear dependent on how much the gearbox feels the stress.
Is it this price instore as well - on the link it says for delivery only? Thank you.
The way I heard it works only in cases where they use it constantly. Rev the (poo) out before mot go for a little longer run. Most people do that daily (cheeky) (lol) Edit: Used to do daily (annoyed)
Well this stuff worked for me. My DPF got blocked because my 2017 X-trail didn't go into regen mode because the service light was on. I didn't know this at the time. I turned off the service light, but it was too late as the engine management light was showing blocked DPF on my diagnostic machine. Even that couldn't force a regen as it was too blocked. I put this in over 2 tanks, which was 800 miles, and it worked. For the price, I'll happily keep on using it every few tanks, as the car doesn't get many motorway miles. I initially paid 8 quid for it in a Tesco before.
OK 5k is a bit extreme but then I suggested "between" 3k and 5k rpm. Driving at over 3k rpm for a certain period is literally one of the things that trigger regeneration on some cars. It aids the process and will help raise the temperature of the dpf. Your car will passively regerate at around 2k and is fine but dropping gear in a manual of course will help increase rpm. The higher the temperature of the dpf the better it will burn the soot/carbon. That's a fact. My last car suggested not dropping below 2k rpm when dpf light is on. and if your car fails to actively regenerate for whatever reason, my advice may still help passively regerate and clear the dpf to some degree. Going on a good run really can help keep the dpf clear. Once they block up they can cause all sorts of problems. And here's a website making a similar suggestion. "How to clean a DPF while driving ?To properly clean the Diesel Particulate Filter while driving, you will need to ride. The highway represents an ideal ground for this exercise, but simple roads will do the business. Maintain an engine speed of at least 3,000 rpm. Indeed, the engine’s level of heating is indirectly linked to the heating of the DPF too. If your car has an automatic transmission, shift your gears in a manual mode by moving the gear shift gently. No need to use the speed limiter, it is with no seeming value added. Ride like this for a minimum of 30 minutes. This will initiate a regeneration cycle, and your DPF will be cleaned. This operation should be repeated regularly, ideally once every two weeks."

A lot of people with hands on experience of these things but without an agenda seem to think these do absolutely nothing. Many praise "Forte" for cleaning injectors and I have found this to be the case and do not believe it to have been a placebic opinion, but "forte" is much more expensive.
Are these things useful?
I can't even find an updated data sheet. The latest is 2021 and doesn't look to be any different to earlier data sheets. Main ingredient Naphtha. https://ulmysds.com/Handlers/PdfTransformer.ashx?p0=31&p1=14304&p2=1&p3=0&p4=0&p5=1&p6=-1&p7=null&documentName= ulmysds.com/Admin/Search
Now if only I could afford a full tank of petrol...
Ah, okay, thanks for that good information. I'll ignore their "our new updated formula also protects against corrosion from E10 fuel, so it can be used safely in all petrol cars" comment then and put it down to missleading advertising.
prices have gone up and i betting i know why cost of living lol
Same stuff, just updated the Jargon on the bottle.