Posted 7 November 2023

Advice needed to how to insulate Steel garage door (manual up & down)

Hi Can some one advice tips to insulate garage doors so that I can keep the door and at same time garage stays warm too. Its ok if door stays closed throughout winter.
Thanks for replying
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  1. Pandamansays's avatar
    I would cut and shape PIR board to fit and stick it with insulation stick pins.
    You might want to use contractors adhesive to stick some battens first and then you can overboard with plywood if desired.
    I would look into some sort of draught excluder strip too.

    Edit: Garages aren't built to be warm, so you'll probably need to do the walls, floor & possible ceiling too. (edited)
    mrbeanz's avatar
    Author
    I had walls & roof insulated too just could not change garage door till next year (permission waiting) so thought of temporary solution
  2. slimy31's avatar
    I used that 'foil and bubble wrap' insulation that is normally reserved for a loft, I stuck it to the door itself. That worked fine, it stopped heat being conducted through the door and it was noticeable warmer when I was stood say six inches from the door. Previously it was like the door itself was sucking the heat away.

    But where I failed was the draught. My up and over door just doesn't have any kind of tolerance on the gaps, there is perhaps half inch all round and that can really let the wind through. I reckon that would be the main challenge in keeping heat in.

    I'd go with Tristans suggestion, a double skinned frame just inside the door that can be made draughtproof. You've said that you don't mind the door staying closed, that's probably the best thing to do.
    Fumar's avatar
    garage door draught excluders are available, I have them on mine.
    Given it's a temp fix these with the bubble wrap should be fine.
  3. AndyRoyd's avatar
    Whatever the solution consider that if the existing door-to-frame area is not watertight then any material placed around the inside edge of door should not be liable to water/damp absorption,
    or at least have minimal absorption sufficient to tolerate the lifetime of the temporary solution.
  4. windym's avatar
    Do not use PIR (Celotex) unless you can cut around a framework to suit it perfectly. Even a 5mm gap will mean the insulation value fails. Most DIYers cannot cut this type of insulation well enough for it to work.

    You can use an insulation such as Actis (or similar) which traps air and is very easy to use, with no waste but with excellent qualities.
  5. airbus330's avatar
    FWIW I used the the aluminium backed insulation that you put behind radiators attached to the steel door with spray contact adhesive. While not having a fantastic insulation value, it did stop the steel door acting like a massive cold radiator and in cold weather is about the same temp. as the walls. Draughts are a bigger issue and a rubber bumper under the door bottom plus filling every possible gap made a big difference.
  6. MadeDixonsCry's avatar
    What kind of door do you have?
    mrbeanz's avatar
    Author
    Steel garage door (manual up & down)
  7. TristanDeCoonha's avatar
    Build a frame behind the door that is double skinned, with a double "door" access that can be insulated. Otherwise you will still get the wind around your garage door, as well as any heat being conducted through the metal.
    If you insulate the door too well, it might become too heavy to operate
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