Yeah this is the situation YouTube is helping a lot. Learning fast. Terminating cables is essentially what I needed.
Personally I think the safest thing the poster could do is get someone in to do the job as it won't cost much. All this talk of using heat shrink and is it ok to twist wires, and adding sleeves is a bit concerning and with respect it all sounds like a fire or electrocution accident waiting to happen.
I think the op is asking if he can cut the burnt insulation from the live/ neutral wires then re insulate the wires. This will mean he doesn't loose any length from the cable. I know this sounds a strange question as you would usually just cut the burnt wires off and pull some more cable through the ceiling/wall. He may not have this option. If the heat shrink insulation (when fitted correctly) meets the original insulations specification I can't see a problem, as long as the copper conductor has not been damaged by the heat due to the poor connection.
Yes I would disinfect the house after an electrician had been in regardless of Covid-19. Sorry Mr spark, plumber messing about (angel)
the fan heater you control by turning the grey knob, the fan speed you control by pressing the 2 green buttons. I ddint buy the extra control panel so I have to us a ladder when I need to change the fan speed. When its not cold I set fan speed to 6. Now I have it set to 3. I have draft coming into the family room. when the door is open it feels like someone left the window of front door open. I'm always prompting someone to close the door (fierce) One issue I have though is when I moved in builders replaced the ceiling plasterboard. And as theres panels in the loft I doubd they have put insulation in between. I need someone to check this for me because when the heating is off house gets cold pretty quick.
Yeah I had read that it only heats air to 2 degrees warmer or something. Does anyone complain about the cold? I'm not someone who feels cold much but I have been in a house with one (without a heater granted) on a winter evening and it was definitely...crisp...ha ha. Is there a manual over ride to the heater so you can turn it on before it would naturally come on or turn it off when it wants to be on etc? Also how do you find the running costs in the cooler months and the heater is in use?
O chose the heat version. Though its supposed to be 500w it doesn't make the air warm. But you do feel the difference. It takes the chill off. I guess they didn't put a more powerful one in in case of fire hazard.
Another year has passed how have you found it? Did you choose the heat or the normal version?
It's a strange one this. I fitted it in March.. within a few weeks it stopped working. I rang them up and they said if loft temp is above 23 degrees then fan stops so house doesn't get too hot. In the winter the hallway got so cold I had to put draft excludes in the family room. Eventually I turned off the PIV. A few days later I noticed some walls getting black so I had to turn it up a little. My house is really high though with massive hallway and 3m high ceiling. Takes a lot to heat up. And the room with thermostat has issues with the radiators so heating working on false economy. I'm sure if I resolve the radiator issue this winter house may work a bit better.. Plus I only have 1 small double radiator in the hallway near front door. I know alot of other people who have the same one fitted by the council and they say it works wonders for them. If you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask
Updated 2nd Sep 2020Last updated 2nd Sep 2020 by leitchyleck
dripping shower head
how do i stop annoying dripping overhead shower head, drips every second 😬
thx, was hoping it would simply be new shower head, will leave it to experts as fitter had bother with controls valves not having enough clearance from wall board.
Yeah so there could be a valve in side the one that switches it on, or it could be a washer, if the valve or the washer are damaged from wear and tear then water will leak past and cause the dripping. You need to work out what valve/washer it has, turn the mains water off (or if you have a isolator on the pipes even better) and then change the valve/washer.
dk make, just two handle valves, one brings it on and controls temp other switches small rose or overhead rose. could ul pic l8.
could be the valve on the taps. Do you know what make it is? Does it run off your taps or is it separate?
Updated 31st Aug 2020Last updated 31st Aug 2020 by Willy_Wonka
Electric shower woes
Hi there Was using the electric shower today and all was fine. However, the water went cold. I had it running for a while so didn't think anything of it. Now no matter what settin… Read more
That is a guess too. You are assuming you can isolate. You are also assuming it is a fill valve rather than a flush valve. You don't know any of it.
All you had to do was change the diaphragm washer for a couple of quid and 2 minutes of your time
You are guessing. If you are guessing & do not want to engage a plumber then replace the whole thing. You could do that for £90 plus your time. Just DO NOT install a higher Wattage shower else you might have a fire.
More than likely it's the TCO failing as iv overheated the tank.
I will give you a clue. Pressure failure isn't the issue unless there is debris in the filters in & out OR you are suffering it elsewhere in your home. Burnt out connections isn't the problem either.
Updated 19th Aug 2020Last updated 19th Aug 2020 by chocci
Mira shower mixer thermostat Honesty
Hi guys in HUKD need help. I am one day away from purchasing the above shower best price I can find it so far is £269 we are going with this make as it seems the most trusted and … Read more
I made the same mistake recently. Bore was 2mm larger so whilst the flow rate was unchanged, the pressure coming out was much weaker. My original was a mira one which I think is 8mm as standard.
Thanks, that's very interesting to know. I did change it from a bog standard one with the metal coil around the outside to a longer plasticised hansgrohe Isiflex one, so that could indeed be what made the difference.
The length of hose shouldn't make any difference to the output flow pressure. Maybe it had a slightly larger bore, hence lower pressure
I have a Mira Alero - been installed since 2013 and only went wrong earlier this year for a heating element to be replaced - cost about £75 to fix but can’t complain - been brilliant other than that
Updated 12th Jun 2020Last updated 12th Jun 2020 by Bigfootpete
Recommend a best shower head with hose
I'm really frustrated that my shower head with hose needs replacing now just in a years time since the new one from Screwfix was fitted. ready to invest sensible money that lasts l… Read more
I have just received a new large bore hose, there is an improvement, however it's really minimal. All the advice given is great, but at this moment (because of the covid, really try to avoid people to come to carry out works), is there any other DIY I can do to make things better. It really is horrible at this minute. Thanks
You can install a pump after the boiler, but only from if you have a hot water storage tank after the boiler. It would be the same principle as number 2 in my recommended list, but instead of a cold water storage tank you would have a hot one. Though there are so many prerequisites you would have to address prior to trying this out. Flow rate, how many showers you have in the house, how many people use the hot water in an one hour time frame, plus much more. Just a heads up I am not qualified nor have any major experience in the plumbing field. Most of my knowledge has come when I project managed a major refurb at my residence. I would personally recommend having a cold water storage tank installed, or take further advice from professionals. Gather ideas from a number of different professionals before deciding your approach. Then follow up by getting quotes from at least 5 different companies. I know its bad to say, but in the current climate, with lack of work going around, the consumer have the upper hand when negotiating prices.
Even for the hot feed?
You have quite a few options but my recommended ones... 1. Easiest is to increase the size of the mains water line coming into your house (we paid roughly £500 - They dug 2 small pits, one near our mains stopcock, and another inside our house... they then use a hydraulic boring tool to go under the house and draw a new wider pipe line to inside the house - in general for people who are having major building works done, I always recommend doing this as most old pipe water lines were made from lead) 2. Install a storage tank in your house, preferably the loft, install a pump to drive water from your tank to your boiler (you may not need the pump as long as its above your boiler, it will gravity feed to your boiler with enough flow rate) Side Note: before you do anything I suggest you check your flow rate. Go to the closest tap(normally outside or kitchen tap) to your mains water supply, grab a 5 litre or any specific sized bucket, time how long it takes to fill and ull work out your flow rate. Same process to apply to your shower head, then you can research on potential cheaper options of buying another shower head which is more suitable for your flow rate.
I don't think this is allowed
Updated 28th May 2020Last updated 28th May 2020 by richp
Help Needed - Electric Shower
Good evening, We have a Triton Aspirants 9.5kw and recently our shower started leaking from the bottom of the actual unit but past few days it's got quite a bit worse. I read up o… Read more
Yeah mine is all sorted, no more leaking. I installed mine as well, this is the second triton one afters many years, we have hard water in our area, I think the 1st one succumbed from lime scale .
When I read about the PRD I read people saying to flush the pipe and shower head through as blockages could cause the issues so was the first thing I did hoping it was an easy,fast solution. That didn't make a difference though unfortunately which is why I then went to check if it was the actual PRD with a fault and saw the other part leaking. Did you manage to sort yours our in the end? I installed the shower unit myself replacing an old one and have found it really reliable up till now so hoping this will sort it.
Excellent thank you,will order the part from Triton and get on with it. I found it odd that the volume of dripping changed depending on the temperature of the water but I guess if its worn down differently in places it will change.
I've got a Triton shower & mine developed a leak last week, but it was dripping from the shower head even when off & I took off what appears to be the same as yours & flushed it through, there is a wire gauze/filter in there that breaks up & blocks it. I found a video on YouTube ,it was easy enough to remove, but remember make sure the power is isolated. Internals of my shower
Water and electric off and it's straight forward swap. You will often find you need to loosen/undo a few screws securing adjacent components to get enough wriggle room to remove and refit. Make sure you have some silicone grease to lubricate o rings, sometimes the part is supplied with a small amount. (It baffles me why Toolstation/Screwfix don't stock it - I use it daily as a plumber).
Updated 28th May 2020Last updated 28th May 2020 by Verbal.Kint
Shower head and tube for Aqualisa
I’m hoping someone can help. Today I think I damaged the lead from the shower to the shower head by forcing it to squeeze near where it connects to the shower unit, whilst cleanin… Read more
Aqualisa do not recommend using those water saving devices on those shower units as they mess with the pressure. As can be seen in the post by 2015 a blockage can cause the PRD to fail, those "saver" heads work by reducing the flow by restricting it as it passes through the mineral beads to aerate the water. That restriction could be your blockage.
Thank you for your help. I’ve ordered a new shower head and part so fingers crossed it solves the problem (y)
Im not sure. I’ve never changed one. If it’s one screw how hard could it be? It could be because you changed the head coupled with when you squeezed the hose.
I have a similar shower, this happened to me whilst under warranty. At first I just popped the ball in the valve back into its position which fixed it for a period of time. But I think once they pop then they become weak so needed replaced as it happened again within 2 weeks of me popping the ball back in. Our problem was that the water pressure in the house was too high so when you turned the temp more to the cooler side the pressure was then too much and popped the value, in the end we needed to fit a pressure reduced to the house inlet. However from reading your comment above I would say they could also be caused by installed a water saving shower head as it restricts the flow.
Is there any chance that due to me fitting a water saving shower head it has caused this problem?
Updated 17th Mar 2020Last updated 17th Mar 2020 by mutley1
Faulty electric shower
We had a faulty electric shower which was overheating the hot water so that the water came out boiling hot. We got a replacement shower and it worked fine for the last month but i… Read more
i will contact him. when you install a new consumer unit you have to test all the wiring at the CU before connecting it as well as the earth bonding as he would charge more for doing the work if earth bonding was not adequate so he would have flagged this up to get more money if that was the case. to get the landlord certificate he would inspect all the sockets and light switches in the house to make sure they look safe but i don't think you are required to open up appliances to check connections as that would take a very long time and the certificate examination takes about an hour to do. i have opened up the isolation switch and it looked fine as i did think that the wires may have burnt out in there and so no power is going to the shower. the Aqualisa engineer said he had equipment to test the wiring for the shower and that showed a fautly earth cable as there is no looping, which was causing short circuiting. he said he is not an electrician so i would need to get an electrician round to fix the cabling but he claims the shower is not broke, although how he had established that without power makes me sceptical about his assertion. i do wonder if they are claiming it is the cabling to push responsibility away from themselves.
As you've had a new consumer unit fitted and a NICEIC landlords electrical safety certificate to go with it I think you can assume the house wiring and earthing is ok. As you say the electrician would have done most of the testing at the consumer unit while he had all the wires disconnected, I doubt he would have taken the cover off the shower though he would probably have inspected the isolator switch. I don't know if the Aqualisa guy is correct or not but seeing as you have the cover off the shower it would quite quick and easy for your electrician to test the wiring between the shower and the isolator switch, if he didn't include it in his original test.
Looks like shoddy workmanship
do you think this means that the earth for the whole property is faulty or just the one on the shower? we had a new consumer unit installed a couple of weeks ago and a landlord electrical safety certificate issued by a NICEIC registered electrician and he passed the certificate. the new consumer unit and landlord certiifcate stated the earthing that he has tested and it was satisfactory. i don't think he would have opened up the shower to check the earthing cable in there as i don't think he would have opened up all the appliances in the property to test the earth cable but he probably checked the earth cable from the consumer unit i am guessing? i was planning to contact him and ask him about the problem but i wanted to see if anyone could say whether the Aqualisa shower engineer is talking rubbish and whether this is a new job that i need to pay the electrician for. the shower was already broke before he did the work but i didn't mention to him as i thought it just needed a new shower and it wasn't the power supply as the isolation swtich is still working and showing a red light on it.
When I was working (alongside a qualified electrician) we often used a device called an Earth Loop Impedance Tester which, as I understood it, checked that the earth wire within a house or building actually was a real earth and was offering some protection. In many cases it wasn't, the earth wire had originally been connected to a metal water or gas pipe which had since been converted to plastic so there was no longer an earth connection, as esar suggests above. I think that is what your Aqualisa man is saying, that your earth is not a proper earth, it doesn't go to ground.
Updated 28th Dec 2019Last updated 28th Dec 2019 by yorkie12
Ours takes a minute or two to get to full heat , although we seem to get hot water quicker when the heating is on. The Thermostatic control works well too , keeps a constant temperature even when OH decides to wash the dishes whilst I'm in the shower or flush a loo. The pressure does drop though.
Thanks for your comment, it gives me hope (cheeky) Is that so you can start the shower and not step under it until it's warm enough? How long does it usually take? I have a thermostat (not used yet), wouldn't have thought we'd need to wait very long.
We use a 200mm adjustable head from our combi- boiler . If we just have the middle bit on if anything it's too powerful , so ours gets left with all jets working. This gives good coverage and pressure. Ours also has temperature sensitive LEDs , when they turn from blue to green/ red the water is hot. Our shower also has a regular head on a hose for rinsing off that is powerful too.
I never realised the term "rainfall" referred to pressure. I'm quite annoyed because I do like high pressure. I guess I'm gonna stick with a smaller one with adjustable pattern. Thanks
For a waterfall shower you normally don't get much pressure but more coverage. Go for the smaller head if you want more pressure or the larger head for coverage. It will be more like a rainfall then a big pressure shower on both a slight pressure difference.
Updated 28th Oct 2019Last updated 28th Oct 2019 by bozo007
Free shower head and kitchen swivel tap for Thames Water customers
Get a free water saving shower head, and a kitchen swivel tap attachment totally free for Thames Water customers Save water, and get free stuff!!
Reminded me of the Seinfeld episode on "low flow" shower heads. :D
Same for Essex water.
Punch a hole in the shower head where you attach the hose to remove the reducer and it's a great shower head after.
They are not free, the costs of these appear in the P&L accounts. The customer pay for these.
There was a link when I submitted it. Mod moved it to discussions , link vanished along with the image.
Updated 9th Oct 2019Last updated 9th Oct 2019 by ccnp
Bar mixer shower. Is the flow cartridge wearing prematurely?
Hi all I thought I’d consult the kind folk that keep a eye on these chats. I have quite a simple question for anyone with a plumbing/handyman/ veteran DIY individual. I moved into… Read more
Not disputing that it worked for you Hastie ( :D ) but adjusting a stop valve reduces pressure while water is flowing, not while taps are closed and the dripping sounds to be while the systems is off. I have the same requirement and have yet to find a suitable device that costs less than many hundreds of pounds. OP - you purchased goods that lasted just over 12 months. You have to ask yourself if you had a reasonable expectation that they would last longer and the answer is yes. YEARS would be a perfectly normal life. A warranty might be for 12 months but that does not end your rights under Consumer law. The goods must be fit for purpose, durable and of merchantable quality. HOWEVER, Triton will ask questions Were the goods fitted correctly? Is the water pressure in your area higher than a) the goods are designed to work with (see instructions) or b) too high (there are restrictions on mains water pressure)? You can buy a pressure tester at Screwfix or Toolstation. Keep the receipt and see what happens. Read up on your consumer rights in the meantime and you will learn a new set of skills and expectations affecting every day of your consumer life
Have you tried adjusting the pressure going into the mixing bar? It’s maybe too high? I’m no expert but had a similar problem and lowering the pressure by adjusting the stop valve seemed to work. Also, it may be a washer/o-ring that needs replaced rather than the whole cartridge. Hope my limited knowledge helps (lol)
Updated 27th May 2019Last updated 27th May 2019 by ssc1
hi. can someone recommend me a good quality shower hose ? seems mine needs replacing every two months or so after it starts leaking. thanks for any replies
If you want good quality, go for Mira or Aqualisa.
This things built like a mains water pressure Flexi hose, it's not as flexible as a standard hose though. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192726043329
I have to tighten the connector every so often as they do come unscrewed when used. Watch out for lime build up on head holes causing back pressure so get some lime descaling fluid from pound shop and clean when you think of it. Just wipe over.. Also consider a longer hose if used off the mount as the standard ones get tugged to much as short, although ideally the head should fit in such away it don't smack the bath when dropped. Ours dose though as long... Mira make the best but toolstation sell 1.5m for £5 which is cheap and ok but I stick to mira as it fits the mount properly. Also make sure you fit the rubber washers either end of new hose. They pop inside
Put some PTFE tape around the screw thread. It’s 49p-99p a roll in screwfix/b&q
Updated 16th May 2019Last updated 16th May 2019 by rimalpatel007
Help! Any tool to extend out the shower head?
I recently purchased the below shower kit. https://www.hotukdeals.com/visit/threaddesc/3228238/16127868 My questions, is there any extendable tool so I have the main shower head… Read more
I've had the same issue - though your shower head looks a lot closer to the wall than mine. In mine the shower head was able to tilt forward, which allowed me to stand a bit further away from the wall. The one you linked to looks like it might be able to tilt also to alleviate the problem. Not aware of anything else that will help, save for returning it and buying another unit. They must make them so close to the wall to accommodate small cubicle showers... mine's over a bath so lots of space... wish I got one that extended more.
Updated 1st Feb 2019Last updated 1st Feb 2019 by vicky.brooks
Lynx recalls Shower Speaker gift set after overheating concerns
Always a firm favourite under Christmas trees each year, so figured this recall may be of interest to a lot of you. (Via Coventry Live ) The sets are called Lynx The Golden Yea… Read more
Sorted now guys. Thanks for the helpful comments and no thanks to the useless ones. As some of you had suspected, it was the shower that was faulty. I got a new one and got the plumber to replace the old one. Works fine now (y)
You might have to search around for him, it doesn't look like he's coming back here to see which kind souls have offered help and advice. I did report it but I doubt they will take any action, he seems to be a protected species on here.
OP, did you find the problem?
It looks like he took my advice and tried to fix it himself (shock)