Unfortunately, this deal has expired 19 November 2022.
Knauf Insulation Super Top Up 200mm Loft Roll - 5.61m² for £25 (Free Collection) @ Wickes
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Posted 6 November 2022

Knauf Insulation Super Top Up 200mm Loft Roll - 5.61m² for £25 (Free Collection) @ Wickes

£25£3017% off
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Lefty
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I’ve been topping up my loft insulation, to great effect (should have done it earlier)! Annoyingly, whilst buying the last couple of rolls from my local wickes, I spotted the price has been reduced by &5 a roll. Get it whilst you can!

Length: 4925 mm
Thickness: 200 mm
Width: 1140 mm
Material: Glass Mineral Wool
Usage: Pitched roof - ceiling level
Coverage: 5.61m²
Fire Retardant: Euroclass A1
Thermal Conductivity: 0.044 W/mK
Thermal Resistance R Value: 4.50 m2K/W
Pack Quantity: 1
Certifications Met: BS EN 13162
Type: Loft roll insulation
Brand Name: Knauf Insulation
Features & benefits

This product will help to lower the energy use in your home, and supports sustainable living through better use of resources
Combi-cut products are supplied partially perforated, providing the flexibility to be used between joists or used uncut as a full-width roll, maximising on-site efficiency
Made with ECOSE Technology: Soft to touch, easy to handle, low levels of dust, low VOCs and environmentally friendly
Non-combustible Euroclass A1 Reaction to Fire classification
Eurofins Gold Indoor Air Comfort Certified Product
Significantly improves the thermal and energy efficiency in your home, helping keep your home warm in the winter & cool in the summer
Low VOCs (Volatile Organic Compound) to help improve indoor air quality
Glass Mineral Wool products are made with up to 80% recycled glass
Compression packed and lightweight for easy handling and moving around a site
Wickes More details at
Community Updates
Edited by a community support team member, 6 November 2022
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148 Comments

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  1. Hunt4deal's avatar
    Is this roll only used to top it up on the existing insulation? I want to get rid of my old insulation ( no life) and do it again completely with new rolls. I am not a DIY expert. Any advice from you experts greatly appreciated.
    sambartle's avatar
    It will work fine for that too, but usually you would do 100mm thickness between joists, then 170/200 over that running the other direction to cover the slight gaps next to the joists and bring you to the 270/300mm total thickness.

    How much difference that extra 70/100 makes however Vs cost (double) is negligible though so if you just did this 200 only straight between the joists, I'm sure it'd be fine. (However if you sell your house the EPC will show less than 270mn that way and you'll get a slightly lower score of that's a concern)

    Personally I'd leave the old stuff, and do this at 90 degrees over the top, as removing the old is a horrible filthy job, and you won't see it once this is over top.
  2. quezi's avatar
    Assuming you're not needing to achieve a particular thickness, e.g. to top up existing, then looking at cost per volume of insulation makes the most logical sense. Here's a breakdown comparing current offers from Wickes and B&Q - cheapest being the 170 mm rolls at B&Q, followed by the 200 mm rolls at B&Q - both based on current 10 % off. 48627792-fngYG.jpg
  3. Spalex's avatar
    Not a bad price considering the market for this has gone nuts.

    Fyi. Loads of brand new rolls come up 2nd hand on FB marketplace, gumtree etc. I've now got too many, but have averaged under £10 a roll.
    deleted248415's avatar
    Stick them on the wall
  4. deleted231063's avatar
    We've been looking at getting our roof done. Think there's 50mm there right now & I'm looking at getting another 200mm laid on top.

    Two problems though.

    - Finding someone interested in doing the job. I've asked several places now & a lot just don't bother to even give you a quote. I assume they're all mega busy with other work.

    - Getting a reasonable quote. The only firm quote we've got so far was for £1,780! This is for a small mid terrace with a 40 m² relatively uncluttered roof space. Last year we used 6,375 kWh of gas (all for hot water & heating) with 60% of that being used in the four coldest months of the year. That works out at £382/winter. It may be the un-green thing to do but when tradesmen want £1,780 to insulate your roof, you're better off just burning the gas in the first place!
    tommyknocker1982's avatar
    Is DIY out of the question? It’s so easy to do. Just don’t block any ventilation around the eaves, and if you have a cold water tank in the loft then don’t insulate under that. I recommend buying a pack of loft boards, a dust mask and some gloves.
  5. balvi's avatar
    ok question, I do have ceiling spotlight which are tall as the wooden beam. do I just cut a hole in the roll or do I need some electrical insulation to put in place?
    neo343's avatar
    When I did my loft, I used plant pots to cover the spot light and glued them down to the ceiling so they wouldn't move. Then you just cut the insulation or break it apart enough for the plant pot to slip through. LED lights shouldn't provide much heat anyway but it's a cheap alternative to buying the official spot light covers and does the same thing.
  6. gtd65's avatar
    What's the best type of mask to wear for a job like this?

    I did one roll, a few months back and can't say I enjoyed the experience one bit! Mind you there's a maximum head height of around 3 feet in the attic (old cottage with coombe ceilings)

    There's two other areas of the attic space (opposite ends of the house) that needs updating, to thicker insulation.

    I got the other half to make an enquiry about getting something sorted out via E.On but no idea if she's heard anything back?
    sambartle's avatar
    The best (reasonably priced) type is something like the Trend Stealth from screwfix (I cant post a link as Screwfix is banned for some reason)
  7. JohnnyUtah's avatar
    I understand regarding giving space for ceiling spotlights but how do people deal with the standard runs of wiring for standard ceiling lights etc?

    I was always under the impression that is shouldn't be covered up but when it is tacked to the side of joists it will be hidden under the insulation and probably loft boards.
    tommyknocker1982's avatar
    When I did mine, I ignored the advice and insulated over the wires, only because the whole house has LED lighting now. With every upstairs bulb switched on, the total load is barely 100W. Obviously you need to be sure they're only lighting circuits and not the mains electricity.
  8. jai247's avatar
    I’m thinking of doing the insulation myself at my mums property. She currently has around 50mm in the jousts and would add this on top.
    Anyone got some advice of how to lay it around lighting. There’s down lights in the bathroom and didn’t want to cause any fire hazards. Cheers
    gtd65's avatar
    You can buy loft cones to put over downlights etc and that keeps the insulation up and away from the units.
  9. Zakoro's avatar
    Is there much difference between this and the one from B&Q?

    diy.com/dep…prd
    SlimBadi's avatar
    Meterage is smaller in B&Q
  10. larry-the-second's avatar
    Really recommend anybody looking at doing their loft with this to check how their loft is already getting ventilation. Mine doesn't have any vents in the eaves, no ridge tiles for ventilation, and no vents at the end of the gable walls. We had condensation appearing on the felt (of course old fashioned black non breathable stuff). However use of a good number of lap vents fixed this. If you find you don't already have good ventilation in the loft these are really worth looking at and using at the sane time. But good luck to anybody doing it, it's an easy DIY job!
    smephone's avatar
    Posting this in case someone is having similar issues. In my case there were vented ridge tiles, but the eaves had been blocked up with insulation. I pulled out the insulation from the eaves, but then I started getting cold spots in the corners of the ceilings below (also causing condensation). In the end I used Manthorpe Refurb Eaves Panels to allow me to get insulation right into the eaves without blocking the air gap.

    48633920-5pRpV.jpg
    I was tempted to use lap vents instead, but the eaves insualtion needed pulling out anyway as it was wet.
  11. seabee05's avatar
    I'd go with Stone Wool such as Rockwool as it's dimensionally stable and doesn't need "Topping Up" once laid. Slightly more expensive but better long term as it doesn't suffer from thermal drift like glass.
  12. OFAH's avatar
    Anyone know the rough point of diminishing return on loft insulation? Is it around 270mm or 300mm? It would be easy to bulk it out further but assume there is little to be gained putting 400mm or 500mm in?
    Lefty's avatar
    Author
    I’ve got 100mm or thereabouts flush with the joists, so this top up gives 300mm in total. Wish I’d done it earlier tbh - makes a difference
  13. bargain-hunter-mummy's avatar
    What does everyone recommend about doing the loft roof and walls? We are end terrace and the house loses heat so quickly, I wasnt sure if I should just top up the exisiting floor insulation or do the walls and roof too.. I've heard its better to let the house breath and do the floor only? Thanks for any advice
    larry-the-second's avatar
    If you do the loft floor there's no need to insulate anything else within the loft. You create a "cold loft". This introduces a risk of condensation if you have not brretahble roof felt and not enough ventilation.

    I'm not sure if you're asking about insulating the walls of the house itself though. That is indeed absolutely possible but how you do this depends a lot on what type of wall you have. If you have a cavity that's the easiest thing to sort out and will make a big difference. This time, though, you will notice that the warm moist air inside the house finds it harder to leave and you may end up using a dehumidifier or similar. Modern houses are built with a whole house system to take away this warm moist air and replace it with fresh air but without losing the heat (an MVHR system).

    You mentioned breathability. This seems to me a really complex concept and I only think I understand it partially, but I believe refers significantly to the ability of a material to deal with moisture transmission. It does matter particularly in old houses made with lime mortar that are inherently breathable. If you use a non brretahble insulation you can trap moisture behind it which causes lots of problems. We are using Wood Fibre insulation boards in our old solid wall house to achieve this.
    Sorry if I've misunderstood anything about your question.
  14. RM2Orc's avatar
    The loft legs I've been looking at are 175mm, do people just use thinner rolls like 100mm or 150mm (if that's a thing?). I'm guessing using 175mm loft legs and this roll would just squash it?
    BenjaminDover99's avatar
    I can recommend the 210mm Diall ones from Screwfix. I'd post a link but is erroring as "banned".
  15. discobob's avatar
    For people looking at the boarding issue I am just redoing our loft when a tradesman put boarding down and ripped out the top layer of insulation leaving just 100mm

    i am replacing 1800 by 2400 chipboard (3 sheets at 600 wide with 2 boards (1200 mm wide) and putting 100mm Celotex on top with another 2 boards on top to walk on as I have put shelves in the eaves

    109mm Celotex has the same thermals as 200mm of fibre insulation
  16. Immoraliste's avatar
    Very informative thread, ladies and gents.

    What do you do if you have a large cold water tank set on ply on the loft joists, and many pipes running to it and the F+E tank? If you want to use stilts to get up to 270mm insulation, do you just build the new level of chipboard floor around the tank (leaving pipes and half the tank non-visible)? Also have the inline fans and ducting above the bathrooms fixed to the loft floor with mains electricity running to them, which presumably can't be covered.

    Definitely needs to be done, as only have a few cm of very old fibreglass insulation that looks like it was sprayed between the joists (but loose, not the solid, modern sprayed stuff on loft ceilings).

    Cheers for any advice!
    Evo_Lution's avatar
    Pipe lagging etc is the best route as it allows access and maintenance. As a plumber all id suggest is ensure any joints are accessible, and give the overflow a look over (usually white plastic), they usually didn't glue these or not very well. Insulate around extractor, can always get insulated ducting to help but don't see much point in this.

    Edit I'm also assuming you have an insulated jacket tied around the tanks (edited)
  17. TheBlueRaja's avatar
    Can you lay this stuff on top of existing insulation? I have measly 100mm thick insualtion in my loft (looks like the bog standard yellow stuff) between rafters of the same height and was wondering if i can just chuck this stuff over the top?
    deleted9453's avatar
    yes, its what i did last year in some thin patches in mine where work has been done previously (extentions and downlight installs)
  18. jamgin's avatar
    Lol. The 'professional' who insulated the loft space in the house I rent managed to put his foot through my bedroom ceiling....Luckily he had a mate who was a plasterer.
    Murgatr0yd's avatar
    Unfortunately, however ‘professional’ you are, it’s easy to make a mistake, especially if there is existing insulation covering the joists. Being busy and the potential for having less sleep, just increases the possibility of putting a foot wrong and going through the ceiling below.

    There are means to reduce this, by using scaffold board etc. but still doesn’t eliminate the possibility.

    If the installer ensured it was repaired and the mistake was rectified, then they dealt with it professionally. (edited)
  19. 8atman's avatar
    Check to see if your local authority offers grants. A couple years back someone knocked on my door offering this for free. I was sceptical and my family thought it was a con but they came and put a load of knauf in the loft and never charged me.

    I could be completely wide of the mark now though. (edited)
    tommyknocker1982's avatar
    Until about 10 years ago, DIY sheds would flog insulation for £1 a roll, funded (I think) by the energy companies. When that stopped, installations dropped like a stone.

    But home owners need to take responsibility too. Even at full price and with low gas prices, loft insulation was a worthwhile investment. But 1/3 of home owners didn't bother to insulate while gas was cheap, and now many complain that their gas bills are too high. Hopefully more posts like this on HUKD will encourage people to install it.
  20. JordanYork12's avatar
    Same price at B&Q and you also get 10% if you do an online order (inc C&C)
  21. bmouthboyo's avatar
    Remember that technically you should not install this over existing wiring as it effects the rating.
  22. Martini's avatar
    I find it amazing how people still have so little of this stuff in their lofts and then complain about their energy bills! Get it up to standard! 270 or even better 300mm before the winter!
  23. rmtheatre's avatar
    Thought it was a thermal coffee cup
  24. OliWarner's avatar
    I don't know the difference between this and their standard Knauf 44 @200mm (same thermal conductivity, thickness, etc) but it's slightly cheaper if you're buying lots to get it from Insulation4Less: insulation4less.co.uk/col…861

    As others have said, small batches (a roll or three) are often cheaper on Facebook marketplace. Just check it's dry.
    dan.platt's avatar
    how are you getting this cheap on insulation4less? I've added 50 and it comes in at 28.12 ex vat
  25. uwingnutu's avatar
    does anyone know the best place for loft legs, or loft stilts?
    mikeyhindey's avatar
    I bought the loft leg ones from wicked and toolstation.
  26. Mᴀʀᴛʏɴ's avatar
    website isn't let me choose anything for delivery, I get to checkout and it states the items are out of stock, even for random other b its? anyone else getting this?
  27. ipaq's avatar
    It's very easy to get paranoid about heat loss and insulation depths however, going from very little to a reasonable amount (between 250mm and 270mm) will be quite noticeable both thermally and acoustically. If you over-insulate and stop all ventilation you won't have any air movement and this will lead to damp issues.

    Investing in a smart thermostat will provide big savings straight away so worth adding to the mix.
    ollyprice87's avatar
    What savings will a smart thermostat provide ?
  28. magikman's avatar
    I'm gonna wait til the 3 for 2 offer comes along
  29. wix's avatar
    I've got a fully-boarded loft with pretty thin looking insulation of about 100mm. Would anyone advocate removing the boards, add extenders and more insulation and then reboard? Pretty big job. Or maybe remove half and fully insulate and leave the rest?
    alexjameshaines's avatar
    For now I added 170mm to the existing 60mm (yes I know not enough to spec) in the accessible areas around the outside centre as half the middle was boarded. I plan to shelve the eaves at a later date and then possibly raise the floor in this middle section.

    My logic here was that it was better to part do the job for most impact as it was just too big a job to DIY in a weekend on your own.

    Also, on the note of depth I worked on a diminishing returns basis like this graph.

    48628828-C3AJ4.jpg
  30. cheeky_chops's avatar
    What do ppl do for loft hatch? That's the only area with no insulation in my loft
    deleted9453's avatar
    Insulated hatch or polythene stuffed with insulation stapled to it
  31. larry-the-second's avatar
    You ideally want as tight as possible a gap between the polythene slab and the frame to prevent draughts. I had wondered about going into the loft and closing the hatch from inside then using a lot of expanding foam around and above the hatch, then waiting for it to cure for half an hour (in the loft, obviously, otherwise you're never getting back in!) And then using a knife to carefully cut the access open again. I haven't tried this but in my head I can't see why this wouldn't work
    larry-the-second's avatar
    Sorry that was in response to the loft hatch question
  32. GrantG182's avatar
    Word of warning on this - if you're fitting this yourself, wear a proper mask. Emphysemia and the likes will not be fun.
  33. deleted248415's avatar
    I got 3m high ceilings and my builder said he can put falce ceiling on and have insulation in between. I got the house for the high ceiling though. He just doesn't want to take off the floorboards in the loft and I thing there's no insulation under them
  34. Gordi_K's avatar
    thanks, just ordered
  35. Shibaal's avatar
    Please can someone help me? I'm in a horrible position of having found out there has been a rat infestation in the loft. There is rat droppings vitually everywhere...It's a nightmare. I now want to get rid of all of the insulation and lay down new insulation. Please can someone kindly tell me what would be the best course of action to renew the loft insulation? Would I need to lay down 100mm insulation first and then top it off? Or can I get this insulation and then top it off with 100mm later? Please help. I'm at my wits end as to what to do. Thank you so much.
    Zakoro's avatar
    Assuming you have an unconverted loft, i.e. a 'cold loft' the cheapest option is to aim for a total thickness of 300mm of this mineral wool type insulation. You can buy it from Wickes, B&Q etc just whatever has the cheapest option at the time.

    Depending on the depth of your joists, it is common to run 200mm insulation in between the joists and then top up with 100mm rolled perpendicular on top. This also stops cold bridging from the joists themselves.

    At the end of the day, more insulation = better, and there isn't really a wrong way. You can have 100mm + 100mm + 100mm, or a 200mm roll + 100mm roll etc.
  36. team_a's avatar
    Hi this seems like a good idea and I'm interested but I'm not diy savvy and worried about damp issues. What would people suggest?
    R_SC's avatar
    You shouldn't have damp issues in the loft unless you have poor ventilation. Unless your sarking felt is really old made (eg bitumin type material) you should be ok. Newer sarking felt allows your loft to breathe and keeps the rain out should a roof tile fail (edited)
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