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Insulation Deals & Offers
1 active deal5,945 commentsAll Insulation Discounts, Offers and Sale - May 2022


link doesn't work
I wouldn't trust any gp on anything they most of the time look things up on google including your symptoms, they're not trained to give advice on mask..
the operative word there is ebola even though some are now saying - 'Covid-19 More Deadly Than Ebola' - and rightly so, see here for the Forbes piece on this - www.forbes.com/sites/coronavirusfrontlines/2020/07/31/why-is-covid-19-more-deadly-than-ebola-an-infectious-disease-doctor-explains/ because if it was say the Zaire Ebola virus with a fatality rate of 60 to 90% (thats 6 to 9 of every 10 infected dying) and death from 6 to 9 days from infection and with the infected showing visible horrible signs of infection ie bleeding from all orafices of their body, ppl will not mind living in the surgical operating theatre enviroment as you put it and wearing mask etc will be a life or death absolute and not subjective as it is now for covid. What many dont realise ebola like covid can become an epidemic here too, its just luck as some may call it why it hasnt happen yet.
Your talents are wasted on this crowd.
I guess its all a risk-reward based judgement that everyone unconsciously applies in their daily life. Living as if we were in a surgical operating theatre environment is just not practical versus the benefit against covid. Had this been like ebola, reactions would have been different. In the context of coronavirus, I've personally not seen real world evidence to support the way we have been mandated to use them. Would I wear one on a ram-packed tube? Yes. Do I feel the need to mask up in a supermarket? No.

If you have to do from below I would think some insulation netting would be probably be more effective and less frustrating than gaffer tape.
Question, I have a 6m long by 3m wide room to insulate before it gets plasterboarded, could I use three of the 100mm packs all on top of each other to get over the 270mm recommended height, as they are 7m long would fit nicely and 9 rolls should work well. And could I use like duck tape or string on something to hold it up in place before the plasterboard goes up??
Maybe there is a reason every insulation supplier clearly states the m2 per roll and Homebase does not.
These rolls are 3.4M long (200mm) or 7.28M (100mm) - (3.8SQM) - (£18.33 if you buy 3) makes them £4.82/SQM Wickes do a 5.61SQM roll for £25 (£22.50 for tradepro) this makes them £4.45/SQM £4.00/SQM if trade) So (I think) you get more for your money buying them at Wickes
I paid £390 delivered for 250m2 equivalent of 100mm earthwool (combination of 100 and 150mm thickness), same place would charge £434 now. On this deal the same area would cost £440 so I’d say it’s not a bad deal really particularly if you’re looking for a smaller quantity that would otherwise result in a high delivery charge. They being said, the 200mm in this deal seems disproportionately more expensive so the same might not be true with that.


Seems to be expired
this now expired or not working today, it was yesterday.....
You mean try and cut it horizontally? Another thing some DIYers have asked me is can they compress 200mm down between the roof joists so they can put a floor down, this is actually worse than using 100mm and pushes down on the plaster board and can pop the plasterboard nail heads down creating those hateful little craters you have to fill, sand and repaint. However the usual problem is blocking off ventilation or not adding more as extra insulation increases the problem of condensation due to the temperature differential, hence why here you are required to get building control to inspect it, it only costs about £60 here in Belfast.
But 200mm is twice as thick so to get the same u value using 100mm it would cost £53.02 if you actually only wanted 100mm you could always get the 200 and split it in half. Easy to do as I do it regular as a partitioner.
Making people hate climate protestors is surely not a good way to get your point across.

Expired. Now £25. Prices inflated. Next year £25 we will call hot price?
Thanks! This was my logic when thinking ahead to when I get around to this horrible job.
I insulated over and around it. I think the light circuits have 6A breakers but the cables seem the same thickness as the ones in socket circuits which are 13A, so I think they are thick enough to be safely covered by the insulation. It was like this originally as well.
What did you do about the lighting wiring above the bedrooms? Cover it up with the insulation or do as I have read and leave exposed to stop overheating? Not easy if the wiring is routed tight and below the insulation top level.
Mine was exactly that...squashed, dirty, patchy and full of dust...took me and my wife 2 hours to bag it all up. The hoovering, taking it all to the skip and installing loft legs took a lot longer. Now happy with 100mm + 170mm perpendicular insulation in place. Also water tank taken out years ago so insulated that part too...

Generally speaking if you are using a multi foil to achieve a u value of 1.8 to the sloping ceilings you would need 75mm pir between the rafters. Also if you are being told by building control I'd check they are happy with this particular multi foil. Rafters have poor thermal resistance compared to pir so the greater or lesser the number of timbers reflects in the thermal performance. Also when you fix the multi foil to the rafters be aware they snag up screws as they wind in. Fix battens to the multi foil then plasterboard.
Thanks for the information. I never got the condensation before adding to the existing loft insulation, and the wind whips up through the eaves quite well. I've simply assumed that whatever heat was rising from below was warming the space before. Reducing that has meant that it is colder, so to retain more heat I was going to add more higher up. I'll have to think again then.
I’m doing a loft conversion so access isn’t an issue.
As Waldolf says above, you need more ventilation in the attic, not more insulation. I insulated my rafters in the attic about 4 years ago with about 6 sheets of 50mm Celotex as I was getting a bit of condensation in there, I was hoping that insulating the rafters would solve the problem, but I've had to rip it all out as it was making the condensation even worse than before and it was so bad it left water marks on the ceiling, so I ended up putting more ventilation in there and the problem is now solved.
Insulating a cold loft space is a complete waste of time and money. If you are experiiencing condesation then you need to increse ventilation to the roof void, not insualte it

Oh, and 3% topcashback :)
Thanks. FYI this also applies to the 200mm (i.e. still £18/roll, which would normally be £25 on their site and £22ish from normal places). Ordered (highfive)
B&Q £19 for roll of 100mm. It does become £18 if you buy three Here you go: B&Q deal
Expired, now back at £24/roll. Anyone know what is the current cheapest? Ideally looking for 170mm. I currently have 100mm insulation (probably from the 1980s). Want an extra 100mm (min) to 200mm (max). I have seen there are diminishing returns after 150mm total so if there are any amazing deals on 100mm I'll settle for that. Thanks
I order 9 rolls and 10 3" by 2" with free delivery over £79

Hi, had a quick look at the video. It really depends how warm/insulated you want it to be. Putting rigid foam and insulated plasterboard is going to do a great job but it costs a fair bit. If you don't want to spend as much, you can simply batten the walls, staple this on top, and then put more batten on top of that plus plasterboard. You are basically using the battens to help keep an air gap which helps with insulation. And the plasterboard helps to keep a nice and more robust finish. For tumble driers, I think it's always best them to vent them outside if there is that option, otherwise, it's worth making sure you have some background ventilation in the garage to avoid condensation. I found that Superfoil - which makes a similar product to this - has very good technical advice/customer service and they will help you with it.
So I've been thinking about doing my garage for just about a year now after watching this video of someone doing the same thing with a slightly larger version of the garage I have. I was going to follow a similar set of steps as he does. All I really want to do with it is store stuff without it getting damp in the winter and maybe having a tumble dryer in there too. But if you have any extra advice on what I may need to look into I would really appreciate it.
Think you just need to be a bit careful that you don't get condensation on the garage wall behind this. Most shed insulations tend to go for one with a vapour barrier like this product but if you don't have a damp proof membrane on the floor, then yes, needs a closer look.
Yes this will be good. If you’re worried about dump issues, consider breather quilt, less insulation ratio, but allows moisture to escape
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but could this be any good for insulating a detached single skin garage? Looking to use it for storage without risking things getting damp etc

Great. Perfect for the kids shoes...
Tidy saving Thanks .. A few other colours available at the same price.
33m for 93p in Toolstation toolstation.com/search?sortBy=TSUK_NEW_en_products_by_price_asc&q=Electrical%20tape (65% more for less money, albeit collected) And the same (33m) for 89p at screwfix.

Looks like it's gone up in price now
Really? What thermal conductivity spec have you got for Sound Insulation Slab? Rockwool get in a muddle on some of their published specs but I would be very surprised if there is a signficant diffenrence.
Spot on advice. I always use sound slab between the joists. Run caberfix D4 on top of the joists and in the chipboard joints and ram home with the hundreds of spax flooring screws (I never nail). You have to work fast as the D4 goes off quick. A box full of disposable gloves is essential as the glue turns your hands black for weeks! No squeaks. Low noise transfer up and down. I also D4 the noggins and cuts into RSJs. IMO every new build should be done like this.
Thanks for posting. Your thread was selected for our Highlights section (y)
Recently had my loft dormer done and the builders didn't put any insulation in the stud walls, and feels like not enough on the out walls because you can hear car doors banging. Not sure how I can fix it without breaking one side of the stud wall. Also they put fireboard on the chimney breast but the chimney is like a megaphone for the neighbors noise, who seem to wake up at 8pm because it's quiet all day!!



What are the adhesive properties of this Tape? -asking for a side-check
Can any sparks advise please as there is crap tape and really nice tape. What's your preferred brand, independent of cost, thatvyiubuse daily?
Have done. Usually needs 3+ clicks. Thanks for the tip though. (y)
Top right hand of screen, three dots, select and then select the report expired option.
Needs expiring as now £1.50 not £1.14 (or 99p).

Managed to get these at £10.80 a roll with my trade pro, saved me £31.20 to do out my attic. Bargain! Just need to find a deal on Loft legs and chipboard now before I go putting down my top-up layer
Back up to £16.50
12 quid for the base roll, top layer roll is 16 quid, anyone know where to get the top roll 170mm on a deal ?
Will this be ok to put on the floor under the kitchen units?
Can I use this to insulate walls and stop the screams?

Yeah I managed to get the 1.9l for £22 back in September 2020
These are normally a good price at Costco, especially when offer, I seem to remember they do a bigger version too
Brilliant flask. Keeps drinks hot for hours
(skeptical) (excited)
These are the dons of flasks

Frame. Great if you only have single glaze, makes a big difference. Can stick bubble wrap onto the glass either, works a bit as well
Literally just used this today! We’ve got a cold window in our loft conversion and I bought this last year to use on it. I had to replace it today as some condensation had got in between and the plastic had started to sag. I checked on amazon and I paid £6.95 so not the best price now but it definitely works, just doesn’t last more than one winter.
Does this go on the glass or on the frame?

Here’s a tip for anyone fitting this to a wall, behind aradiator. Take 4mm ply and cut 20mm wide strips from it. Place the strips on top of the foil, around the edges. Secure with small screws or masonry nails. This will prevent the foil from peeling away and the ply canbe painted to match the wall.
Hi I know what you mean this is the only one I've seen that can be bought with the ability to suspend it in between the wall and radiator https://www.radflek.com/fitting/ this is a quote from their FAQ section "For Radflek to work at its most efficient, it needs to have an air gap both between it and the radiator (so that it can reflect heat) and between it and the wall (so that it does not conduct heat). If the installed sheet does touch the wall or the radiator in a few places, that will not make any material difference to its effectiveness. The optimum air gap is approximately 25mm but we have had customer reports where Radflek has been installed in air gaps of 10mm and was still said to be effective." I'm no scientist either and am not sure what to believe but I can believe a foil designed to reflect will also allow conduction if physically touching the wall. I'll be honest unless in a victorian single brick solid wall or something I don't see it making a huge difference but I have some spare thermawrap and am willing to give it a try to see.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiator_reflector#:~:text=A radiator reflector is a,heat away from the wall. Im no scientist but believe the link above and extract from that link below to be straight forward explanation, the foil traps the air as per description of product, air getting behind the foil is counter-productive Still never seen a floating foil wall / stand behind any radiator ever, probability of air flapping the foil around, heated air finding point of least resistance and around the foil would reduce the conductivity benefits which are described as minimal anyway, also practicalities you describe very well I suspect are reasons - would like to see an aesthetic foil stand behind radiator cant find any on google Radiator reflectorFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to navigationJump to search Radiator reflector panels being installed behind a domestic radiatorA radiator reflector is a thin sheet or foil applied to the wall behind, and closely spaced from, a domestic heating radiator. The intention is to reduce heat losses into the wall by reflecting radiant heat away from the wall. It is a form of radiant barrier[citation needed] and is intended to reduce energy losses and hence decrease fuel expenditure.
One of the reviews said they used 10mm
I think they mean between the wall and radiator - they work best if a small air gap is left between the foil and the wall and the foil and the radiator. So it shouldn't be stuck onto the radiator or onto the wall but be in between the two. Not always easy if you have little room and for something like this were it will want to roll up a bit over a length it would ideally be supported by a thin frame.


Anyone know off hand the dimensions of it when still packaged? I know it's approx 1200mm 'tall'. Trying to establish if it would enter a small hatch with very limited headroom before being able to turn it on its flat in a small area of roofspace. Obviously all sizes on websites relate to it's unfurled dimensions. It's not the sort of thing you want to unroll and cut before being in the roofspace so I'd appreciate it if anyone can answer!
I didn't even notice his reply until now lol (y) (popcorn)
(lol) (lol) (lol) I love it how you seem so offended by the previous comment. "Errrmm, my house is ventilated perfectly fine thank you..." (lol) (lol) (lol) How dare they get mixed up and even suggest that you may have a damp problem. (lol) (lol) (lol) Seriously, HUKD has kept me sane through lockdown. I just love reading these kind of comments. Keep up the good work little_red_devil 👏
Errrm, my house is ventilated perfectly fine thank you. I was referring to the fact that it is water damaged stock, not the product itself.
Your hose is definitely not ventilated properly. I have this in my attic and it doesn't smell and it is definitely not damp. Check for leaks as well..

And a reminder why not to buy Kingspan insulation products (they offer the highest thermal insulation per mm of thickness I've seen, but they are highly flammable unlike this Knauf roll or Rockwool): insidehousing.co.uk/news/news/kingspan-withdraws-insulation-fire-test-admitting-it-is-not-representative-of-product-on-market-for-15-years-68461 Attaching highly flammable material to my home was out of the question when I was buying insulation as good non-flammable alternatives exist.
Guess only downside is you lose any chargeback or s75 protection from not paying by card
My workplace perks scheme offers reloadable Wickes gift card with 10% off on top-ups. Very handy and saved me £100's in kitchen renovation.
(mad) 6 rolls last week...^%$£"(*&^$%£%^&*^%£$^**(
I thought it was vegan sausage roll and coffee!

Really nice (highfive)
Lots of talk about PIR... Rigid insulation will never fill the gaps meaning thermal bypass and cold spots PIR burns and releases toxic smoke. Do I really need me to remind people about the tall building fires lately? PIR suffers with thermal drift, it also loses performance when temperatures reach close to 0 when you will most likely need it to perform. Lambda values are measured in a lab not the real world, I'd pick dense mineral wool any day as it relies on trapped air (y) (y)
PIR is the thinnest you can get. Mineral rolls are a cheaper solution. You can also get rockwool slabs. Slabs are better for walls, don't gas, compress or burn. I would pick PIR or slabs personally. Also worth checking fire rating on PIR if you plan on using that.
Are we talking about joists in the attic/ceiling? Normally joists will be at least 100mm in height if not more so it should fit nicely in there otherwise I don't see how this product will benefit in your situation. Lay 100mm one way and 100mm over it the other way with out compacting it too much or leaving gaps and your rooms will be nice and toasty if that is what you have there anyway.. (embarrassed)
But this is significantly cheaper. Kingspan is roughly £35 for 1m2 This one is £2.6 per 1m2 Both 100mm thickness. It's for a garage in the garden. Will be used just for storage.
As thin as possible so I don’t have to build up the floor too much! I’m starting from scratch, existing insulation is old and has practically no depth to it so I’m going to replace it.