Posted 13 December 2023

House freezing cavity wall insulation

Hello
my house is extremely cold and even with heating on  doesn’t warm up unless you left on all day.without heating its on 12 degrees you put heating on 2 hours and the temp will go up by 2 degreees.
brand new boiler and radiators.
had a thermafy survey done and they said everything ok heating on 88% and insulation on 70%. So not sure why it’s cold and not heating up.

rang a grant company and they’ve said they’ll take out the wool insulation and fill it with beads.

any advise? Would this help with the house being warm?
can’t live in this cold and can’t afford to keep heating on ALL day.
thankyou
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  1. Willy_Wonka's avatar
    Reading the thread I am pretty sure the majority of this issue is you haven't had the heating on long enough & on a high enough heat to warm up the plaster & brickwork.

    Put the heating on max, shut all the windows & go out for the day. When you come back set the thermostat to switch on at 17 degrees or over & I doubt you will have a problem.

    Worth a try.
  2. airbus330's avatar
    Unless your house is recently built to Passive House Plus standards, what you describe sounds normal.
  3. tek-monkey's avatar
    If you put heat into your house but it stays cold then the heat is escaping, it's as simple as that. It doesn't disappear, it is either being used to raise the temperature of thermal mass (as others have said heating the fabric of the building) or it's escaping through insulation issues. If your inspection says no thermal issues then it's thermal mass, but I'd pay close attention to what measures that company can get funding for and if that happens to match what they suggest.

    Personally I'd go the thermal camera route, that way you know for yourself what the problem is.
    Gj9382's avatar
    I suspect being tight on heating is the cause with those thermal figures.
  4. tek-monkey's avatar
    Few more thoughts here...

    Do you just have one thermostat in the house?
    TRVs on the radiators?
    Temperature on the boiler set properly?

    But physics is physics, if heat is created and not evident then it left.
    Gj9382's avatar
    Also - check boiler pressure if its a combi or pressurised system boiler.
  5. Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Thanks a lot for all your comments and input

    maybe I’ve just been suffering and not using heating correctly 🤷‍♀️ 
  6. CurvedSlightly's avatar
    Your house bricks will probably be 'sinking' the heat.
  7. qbs's avatar
    The best advice is ignore most of the "advice" you've been given here. The exception is get a thermal camera and identify the cold spots/heat escape routes. The scan you had - radiators only I think you said - you could have done with your hand. Sounds like a scam.

    There's a very simple basic equation: Input - Output = Accumulation.

    In other words, If the output (losses) are close to the Input (heat from central heating), your house won't heat up (accumulation).
    Advice to leave your heating on all the time is rubbish, unless you have a very modern, well insulated house, in which case you can be very warm with very little input.
    For most people in the UK, their houses aren't built/insulated to anything like that standard, so your only option is to identify and quantify where these heat losses are, and look at cost effective solutions.
    Gj9382's avatar
    Advice to leave your heating on all the time is rubbish

    It isn't rubbish at all. Letting it cool down to 12c is just madness.

    I don't know anyone that would do this. You usually have an "idle temp" of around 16/17c. This is just basic physics.

    If you think its ok to let a house, you are living in, cool down to 12c between heating cycles then I give up with humans.
  8. qbs's avatar
    Still rubbish. My heating's always off overnight. Back up to comfortable in about an hour, and my detached house was built in 1981.

    You can't generalize. Without knowing the location, orientation, type of house, materials used, quality of build, etc etc., you can't start to come up with a solution.

    Physics has nothing to do with it. It's the branch of thermodynamics usually referred to as heat transfer.

    Some years ago, a gas "engineer" was servicing my sons boiler and trying desparately to impress with his own heating system around 350 miles away. He was telling me how he could use his phone to adjust his unoccupied house temperature depending on how cold it was outside. Seems like you're stuck with that sort of flawed logic.

    The OP's only choice is to start with basics and correctly identify the problem he has.
    Gj9382's avatar
    Pretty clear the problem is leaving the house to get to 12c.

    Has loft insulation, cavity wall and a modern boiler. Seems the source of the issue is pretty clear.

    I leave my heating off overnight (at a setback temp but never gets down to that) but the fact is, like yours it won't be at 12c when you wake up. That is because the house has been warm prior. The OP's issue is a 4hr run time per day starting at 12c. Its never going to warm up no matter how good the insulation.

    Plenty of evidence on the internet about this.
    Thermodynamics isn't physics? OK

    Having a set back temperature allows a quick warm up on the set temps - that's just basic common sense. I went through all this last year when gas was 12p per kwh so I know which process is effective and which isn't. Myself and many others now adopt the low and slow method which prevents cavity condensation and fabric cool down but you carry on with the "it's rubbish" rhetoric and lots of words without any actual advice.
  9. slipthru25's avatar
    What kind of construction is the house?

    My flat goes down to 12c most mornings and takes a little time to warm up in the morning. but it's solid brick and plasterboard and no insulation. (edited)
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    It’s 1930 semi 
    got cavity wall insulation 
  10. Willy_Wonka's avatar
    What did they say about your current loft insulation?
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Loft is well insulated 
  11. tardytortoise's avatar
    my thermostat in the hall is set at 20 degree centigrade.
    heating comes on at 6am and goes off around 9:30 am - house stays warm enough until 4pm and goes off 10:30pm - house stays warm until next morning.
    yes heating is expensive and if unaffordable my best advice is to stay under a high tog duvet.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    We’ve got the highest tog duvet too 
  12. psychobitchfromhell's avatar
    My house sits at 10.5 degrees. The joys of old houses.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Does it warm up though when you put heating on?
  13. mutley1's avatar
    We have a 30s house and it is very cold even with the heating on full blast all day

    We need to get the floor insulated as there is a sub floor, but it isn't easy to do.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Oh dear I’ve had mine done hasn’t made a difference tbh 🤷‍♀️ 
  14. Justintime12's avatar
    A 2 degree rise from a very low 12c in 2 hours isn't abnormal

    Just set thermostat to 15c overnight and 18c during the day and boost manually when you feel it too cold.

    That's what we do and we spend £400-£500 per year on the gas central heating, cooking and hot water (4 bed detached)
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Yes I would have to keep the heating running all day for it to reach 18
    not on and off where it ticks off and then ticks back on.
  15. Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Any suggestions on the insulation?
    thanks 

    Don’t mind putting heating on if it kept house warm :/   (edited)
  16. JJ900's avatar
    I set our heat to around 21c and it doesn't turn on after we go to bed. In the morning in current conditions it's around 17.5c take about an hour to get to 21c.

    I have concrete floors and standard insulation in cavity wall and loft.

    Maybe it's worth getting someone out to see what part of the house has the most heat loss. You may be able to do it yourself depends on how expensive a thermal imaging camera is.

    We went on holiday in the November for 10 days and it was 14c when we got back... (edited)
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    I booked the thermafy survey didn’t say where heat loss was 
  17. freakstyler's avatar
    Personally, I would buy a cheap thermal camera and go hunting for cold spots/areas myself so I know exactly where the problem is. Simple things like fabric blinds/curtains make a lot of difference.

    We have a late 1940's Brick/Cavity semi, have cavity wall insulation, glazing and doors all replaced in 2015 and the insulation in the loft I think dates back to the early 80's though its been boarded out since then and temps rarely dip below 18*c with no heating over night unless its sub zero outside.

    Is your house gable ended or a hipped roof OP? A lot of our neighbours with a gable have had issues with damp and cold caused by the wall ties failing and bricks disintegrating above the eaves of their houses letting cold and moisture penetrate the cavity.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    It’s a semi and both my neighbours have got same houses their temp is on 18 degrees without heating and mines on 12 :/ just don’t understand 
  18. Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    The upstairs will eventually warm up but downstairs will still be on 15 even after few hours of heating 

    We live upstairs in winter 
    Gj9382's avatar
    As explained - you need a minimum temp on stat. Set it to 17c, take the painful hit on the wallet once to get it up to 17c and then the heating will tick over to keep it at this.

    Once mine is up to temp it rarely kicks in during the day and only kicks in for a short period to warm house up to the timed temps - ie 20c.

    Setting it for just 4hrs per day with a start temp of 12c is a total waste of money and gas as it will never get warm.
  19. cis_groupie's avatar
    It's surprising how much heat can be lost through the windows.
    But as others have said, borrow/buy/hire a thermal imaging camera & check around your house to see exactly where the heat is escaping.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    I had a survey
    dome doesn’t show heat
    eacaping going to give them a bell 
  20. JimboParrot's avatar
    Out of interest which boiler do you have?
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Worcestershire 
  21. MonkeysUncle's avatar
    I used to have a cold house until we got a stove fitted. It sounds like yours l, we had to have heating on for hours on end until it got warm.
    We got triple glazing about 8yr ago which helped a little, but now we have the stove it's red hot all downstairs.
    We use smokeless fuel from the local coal merchant, a 20kg bag for £12 will easy last a week.
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    What kind of stove is it.
    a plumber quoted
    me £4K for it and said would keep house piping hot 
  22. sadact06's avatar
    Anyone tried using cork under the wallpaper on walls for insulation? Bought some as floor insulation and its main use is under wallpaper as insulation.
  23. melted's avatar
    I would check that you've got the gas boiler temperature turned up high enough, a lot of people set it too low. I insulated all the central heating pipes under the floorboard as it was quite drafty under there.

    How about getting something warm and cosy to wear around the house, like a sleeping bag with arms and legs, save a lot on gas :- snoozzoo.com/pro…ts/

    51746725-xOh7A.jpg
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    Can you believe already wearing 3 layers!!!
    if inwear
    anytjing else Wouldn’t be able to move 
  24. Pricklerickle's avatar
    I wish my hive had a range, so it don't flick 15/16c on and off,, great for set it too heat 17 c, but turns back on when it drops 16c, instead of 16.9 c,, harder when you have no insulation and old back boiler
    Gj9382's avatar
    1c differential is pretty normal for thermostat cycles.
  25. Rugrats's avatar
    I suggest before doing any work is to get a thermal energy assessor (thermal + air leak), to test your house and give you a report on what are the cause of your heating problems.
    Then, maybe he will suggest some solutions.
    But for information, most of the heat escapes like the following:


    Can you do an extenal insulation?
    Are you windows/doors double glazed/timba, uPVC?
    Payyyyy's avatar
    Author
    It’s got wool cavity insulation and sub floor insulation windows are ok Upvc 
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