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Posted 6 days ago

Meross Smart Light Switch Module, DIY Wall Switch Module, Wireless Relay Smart Switch 2 pack with voucher

£17.54
Free ·
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akil_mayet
Joined in 2015
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Features & details
Compact Design: The DIY smart wall switch module, with dimensions of 5.0 x 4.6 x 1.9cm, is designed compactly to fit most electrical panels. Convert your standard 1 Way 1 Gang switch into a smart one with ease. Compatible with a plethora of standard switch panels and boasting a maximum power of 400W. No hub is necessary for its operation. NOTE: Installation requires a neutral wire, typically blue.
NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED: Please ensure before purchasing that your original switch has a neutral wire. If you are unsure, please consult a professional electrician. We provide installation instructions and videos in the app and on the product detail page to assist you.
Remote and Voice Control: The smart switch module is compatible with HomeKit, Alexa, and Google Home. You can remotely control your home devices through the app and turn them on or off at any time. In addition, the switches can be managed by voice control, such as saying "Hey Siri, turn on the switch in the living room."
WiFi Relay Switch: Designed to fit any standard electrical box, the Meross relay switch module can be installed flush-mounted or surface-mounted. Transition your traditional switches into the smart era. It’s versatile, working with rocker, toggle, in-wall, reset, and many other switch types.
Schedule and Scenes: With the Meross app, personalize your lighting with scenes, set timers, and even use sunrise/sunset settings for optimal energy savings. Control is extended to other Apple devices, with the added compatibility of the Apple Watch.
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Community Updates
Edited by a community support team member, 6 days ago
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32 Comments

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  1. SajidAli-ad629.06113's avatar
    How would you use this if you have no neutral wire?
    umirza85's avatar
    Buy the SONOFF mini versions, have them in all my outlets, they’re also way tinier than these and require no neutral wire.
  2. mboard42's avatar
    Neutral wire required
    Shame. Still a good deal
    ddnvidia's avatar
    Would I be correct in saying hue version of this doesn’t need that
  3. Milkfloat's avatar
    If I wanted to use this at the light fitting end (no neutral on switch) then how does the wiring work - L and N to the fitting, (brown and blue wires), but which way round for the L1 and S1?
    phoenix__'s avatar
    S1 is the switched live return from the switch.
    L1 is what the light fitting itself goes into.

    Presuming you've got an exciting light + light switch. At the light fitting - remove the switched live input and connect this cable to S1. A new cable between L1 and the now empty connector.
  4. Franko64's avatar
    How do these things fit inside a standard light switch back box or a ceiling rose?
    Every switch in my house has a shallow back box with just enough room for the cables let alone this thing packed in there too. Standard ceiling roses also have very little space for anything else.
    phoenix__'s avatar
    They don't fit in shallow boxes. They do, just, fit in the deeper ones.

    Yes, you do need a larger ceiling rose. Not the basic fitting on cable, but some lights do come with large enough.
  5. steevieboy4u's avatar
    Just get WiFi bulbs.......so much easier 🤪
    And better...... I just got some of the GU10 colours WiFi bulbs from Poundland and they work great, even change with music etc took me 5 mins to change the 6 standard led ones in my kitchen. They work with Alexa and everything 👌🏻

    Each bulb cost me a fiver each 🏻 (edited)
    ddnvidia's avatar
    60+ Wi-Fi bulbs would degrade my WiFi performance in the house far too much. Due to the way WiFi works, each device has to wait on its time slot to talk. I’ve got as many devices off WiFi and on Ethernet / zigbee etc so it doesn’t get in the way. I could use seperate access point but I need 4 to cover the whole house reliably so, Hue is one of the few systems that works reliably for me for example.

    Bulb £5 each, we have 16 in one room, so the hue controller would be even cheaper
  6. Grrrrrrrrrrr's avatar
    I think that many have just ignored the switch terminal and installed them in the light fitting - where there is the neutral that tends not to be easy to come by in the UK domestic lighting circuit switch boxes. If the fitting used to take a 75/100W incandescent and now has a <10W LED, it shouldn't get too hot in there. Just remember to set the default to "ON" on power up and you will still be able to control it fully at the switch(es) as well as remotely.

    This seems a pretty good price for two - with 10A switching, IIRC. I tend to use the Sonoff mini equivalents, which cost rather more. There are smart switches that need no neutral (but may need a capacitor connected across a LED lamp). If, like us, you have too much traffic going too close to your house to use motion sensing outside lights - one of these might come in useful for that - put the lights on from your phone/tablet before getting out of the car..
    phoenix__'s avatar
    "Just remember to set the default to "ON" on power up and you will still be able to control it fully at the switch(es) as well as remotely."

    That suggests you're turning the module off from the light switch - which means you might not be able to turn the lights on remotely.

    Some light fittings have the full "daisy chain" of cables (how the electrics were wired, not specifically light fitting related) so you can get permanent live+neutral for the module and switched live from the wall switch.
  7. Bbqueue's avatar
    I didn't know these were a thing! I'll be doing some research!
  8. wafarey's avatar
    This is good.
  9. pumpalchetata's avatar
    The wiring drawing is not showing the second blue/neutral wire from top cable. Must be joined with the other blue/neutral
  10. mattclarkie's avatar
    All this talk of neutral is confusing me. UK lighting circuits are Live, Switched Live and Common. There's no concept of a neutral at any point in a traditional UK lighting circuit.
    Although some people often use T&E for the cabling, the blue wire would be switched Live and not Neutral.
    phoenix__'s avatar
    I thought "common" is what you'd use between 2 switches that control the same light or the live input into the switch

    The ceiling rose has live, neutral, earth from the consumer unit. It also has switched live from the light switch. (edited)
  11. rambits's avatar
    So am I correct that you won't be able to turn the light on remotely if the physical switch is off?
    phoenix__'s avatar
    If you install this correctly, the module is always powered (regardless of light being on or off) - so you can always control it remotely.
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