All Bike Brake Discounts, Offers and Sale - October 2018
Bargain, unexpired cheer
Now 4 quid!
whats wrong with resin, its summer, couldnt be bothered with the howl of sintered. in winter i'd agree done a few 3-4 hour rides and destroyed new that day pads
Good price but unfortunately resin.
Like others I normally use their sister site carparts4forless. Code still working 5 mins ago. Just had a quick look, not particularly scientific though, and was surprised that this deal came out cheaper that CP4L using code BRAKES18. Problem I’ve found is that the Slough branch are incredibly slow, you end up waiting ages so not great.
LOL absolutely. ECP have been around for ages. They are often the cheapest but like you say it pays to shop around. I posted an ECP deal previously and it got hammered. Lots of ECP trolls around unfortunately.
Never had a problem apart from spark plugs which they swopped immediately for the correct ones. Use them all the time but only if they are cheaper and in stock but always collect so you can confirm you've got the correct bits. I think most of the comments are from people who probably don't like sports direct and sky as well
Yes it’s a subsidiary. But online only so cheaper.
Never had a problem with them but then ive never had to return anything. Ive found their discounts as good as any of the others most of which ive used over time. I tend to return to ECP as ordering is a breeze and free delivery is a bonus. Personally I would go to my local ECP store to return goods. Sounds like they need to improve their Customer Service.
thats what i'm thinking, need new trainer wheels
Ideal for a trainer
Yeah I assume having artificially high prices and offer constant discounts must work as a business model. Check out their prices on eBay for what you should be paying.
Problem with ECP is they Price Hike there prices up every time they do so called Discount Offers.
Best of luck if you need to contact Customer support!
Awesome deal. Thanks.
Pro tip. If buying a battery get Eurocarparts to price match Tayner Batteries and you'll save a packet. Saved £56 last month doing this on just 1 battery.
I used 105 5800 Rear+Front for 4 years until a few weeks ago when my foolishness resulted in the rear breaking (breaking, not braking). It has since been replaced with an Ultegra 6800. The 105’s are excellent callipers; despite living in Scotland where it’s often wet, these callipers could easily stop my carbon bike and me within two metres without being thrown from the bike. Not a single flaw to mention; if I hadn’t just bought a new calliper I’d jump at the chance for either the single or the pair at this price. DEAL
I brought a set of 105 5800 calipers for my Trek 1.5 Alpha and was amazed at the difference is stopping power over the old brakes.
And as for still using wheels.....
Will these fit a kids 16" wheel bike?
It looks to read SL-M395 or it could be SL-M355 those brakes would use the B01S https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-DISC-BRAKE-PADS-B01S-GENUINE-SEALED-FOR-ACERA-DEORE-ALIVIO-AND-MORE/183090176087?epid=2256372322&hash=item2aa1066057:g:xusAAOSw145ajx0L
tried to get a photo but its a bit hard to get focus and i cant read it, its tiny! imgur.com/AAHtE1j https://imgur.com/x2gsBxb
Have you got a picture of the levers,the lever usually has a model no, the Caliper looks like an Acera m355 m395 so I’d say you.ll need shimano B01S pads, they are slightly squarer in shape to this hukd, Genuine Shimanocan Be had for £4.59 on eBay
how would i find out what breaks ive got ? i have shimano but no idea what type and due a break pad change. my bike is a scott aspect 930 29er. not sure if its 2015 model, i bought it 2nd hand
thanks for the quick reply. :-)
from the road.cc review above, I believe is the same frame which came in at 11.8kg - this has slightly heavier components albeit mechanical rather than hydraulic (i.e. no fluid weight). I would expect it to be with 12 to 13kg range dependent on size - but that is only making a guess from what I can see.
Any idea how heavy this bike is?
Only for those who have posted a review after buying from one of several sites (wiggle, Halfords, tredz). The frame itself I believe is the same as what was on the Strada 6 a few years ago and this is the review covers that bike: http://road.cc/content/review/99791-raleigh-strada-6 Difference are this will be slightly heavier, it has mechanical rather than better hydraulic and the claris is one groupset down from the sora (albeit more recent on its refresh ). The Strada 6 I gave some consideration due to its value when released (got a bargain on Croix de Fer 20). As in the post though being a main retailor evans allow you to test drive if they have a demonstrator which is going to give you the best feedback of what you think, the geometry and how it suits you. If they do not have a demonstrator they ask for a deposit to order it in for you, make it up, fit it to you and then let you test drive it (out for a few hours at most). At that point it is either a case that you love it and continue or decline and get a full refund.
This looks very interesting, but I can't find any review online. Any suggestion?
A big step up I upgraded the m395 on a bike a few years ago to slx m675 and it really made a difference to power, the m7000/m8000 XT have a right sharp bite point
I've got he M395 levers on my commuter and love them, I can only imagine how good these will be!
Different options slightly cheaper at ribble, if not using British Cycling
What brakes have you used in the past? The difficulty with a lot of bike parts is that it comes down to rider preference, some people don't like the quick grabby nature of the Shimanos and the new Guide brakes seem to have quite a few fans after Sram's rocky reputation with the Avids and DB's. I have the inferior Sram DB5's that came with a bike and they're not great but on the other hand they work fine and it's a lot of hassle to replace them. I've got a set of SLX's ready to go on it and should really do it while that bike is on its winter break.
Very good brakes, can't go wrong for this price.
Great stoping power, had them on a jump bike, it was more then enough and then on trials bike for a while not the way to go duh, cost me about £140 at the time and then I laid my eyes on magura mt5 for like £160 and all I can say that i should have got magura from the get go... No way to compare them two, magura takes it all For this price shimano is a good choise for a decent MTB
My YT Jeffsy came with Sram Guide R brakes, which I have yet to try, but have read they are not amazing. Would these be worth getting to replace the Guide R brakes and then sell them on ebay?
Nice one, still working
Still working now too 😁
managed to order at 9.20pm still working thanks
If I to collect in store and the price is on the reservation will they still sell for the price thats on the reservation, i know this is a good deal and doesn't come often, just concious :)
Only an idiot would post such pointless gibberish to defend their own spelling standard. You, my friend, have just earned a place in my ignore-list!
I thought oil disc brake meant they were hydraulic but you can clearly see the cable attached to them so only mechanical. The front shifter is non indexed yet the price is normally 1800! They are clearly the entry level Tourney shifters. Low end solid axles in the wheels. Seems slightly overpriced for what it is.
English grammar is the way in which meanings are encoded into wordings in the English language. This includes the structure of words, phrases, clauses, and sentences, right up to the structure of whole texts. There are historical, social, cultural and regional variations of English. Go back to Benefits Street. Maybe you would fit in riding this “bike” too. Clearly you don’t know when to admit you have made a mistake (or several). You linked the wrong bike, you complained about the spelling of Soul and then said it should be spelt sole (as in single or the bottom of a shoe) and then you said Grammar is spelt incorrectly, it pains me to speak to people as ignorant as you, so I will stop.
Alright Lee mate.
No need to, already know. Maybe you need to go back to school again i.e. if you ever went there in the first place?
Well done some good advice. No commuter needs a full suss, its just going to add weight and result in less money being spent on the basics. Plenty end of season deals around. I am going to mention the second hand market, despite havin previously being stalked on HotUK deals for doing so! Plenty of good deals on gumtree.
Be careful with this supplier. They clearly give false information. This bike claims to be 7 speed but the image shows what looks like a single speed bike with no cable going to the rear for hub or derailleur gears and no derailleur shown either. https://www.lightinthebox.com/folding-bike-unisex-ordinary-v-brake-folding-ordinary-7-speed-20-inch-steel-red-yellow-blue-white_p5116851.html?prm=22.214.171.124 They are also claiming normal price at close to £2000 but the bike appears something worth more like £90-110 slightly below their asking price.
I'm no bike snob or bike brand snob but this really doesn't look very good especially for £200+ which if carefully chosen will get you a pretty decent bike new. Many years ago I bought a new £65 bike and rode it at 26 stone despite the warnings from many people. It was brilliant, loved the bike but in contrast to this bike it was incredibly simple, no suspension or gimmicks at all just a strong rigid steel mountain bike. Of course the weight it was carrying meant a few issues, had to replace the bearings in the front wheel and after hitting a pothole had to true the rear wheel that happened within the first 3 months. The basic Shimano tourney rear derailleur was poor at shifting after going through rain and about maybe after 6 months of ownership changed it for a Deore. As I got lighter the problems pretty much disappeared. If you are buying a cheap bike new keep it simple would be my advice. Cheap suspension is next to useless and short life. Cheap suspension can pretty much guarantee a landfill destiny in a few years at best. It is true though that many people buy mountain bike style bikes (Apollo, Argos, Toy's R Us etc) with no intention of taking them off road because they like the style and such bikes could never successfully be taken off road anyway due to weak freewheels, threaded headsets and weak suspension. I don't think its unfair to warn people that such bikes aren't suitable for such use. Many would assume a bike described as a mountain bike could be taken off road.
A bike with a lot of overweight cheap components,you'll spend more time repairing and pushing than riding,spending a little more on something like a Raleigh Evo-2 [Halfords]with better quality gears and brakesand a lighter alloy frame will be less fatiguing to ride,more reliable,and last a lot longer.
Looks quite a good bike for commuting short distances - and how many people who own Mountain Bikes actually ride them on mountains? (or off-road at all for that matter) It seems "hardcore cyclists" are rapidly becoming this generation's wine snobs ;)
It's very bright for such a small unit
How bright is it? Would you say it's on a par with a basic 3 or 4 led rear light?
I've just done my first 30 miles out with this attached. It was still attached and working when I got home. Not been out in the rain yet so can't comment on how water resisitant it is. Ok for a couple of quid
Cheap enough to give it a try. Heat added
I love the idea of this, but reviews seem to be pretty poor Cheap enough to give it a try though.
Is it really that simple, can you really tell the difference between one brand or another? The durability of a break pad for example might depend on your weight, the terrain, and of course the weather, especially wet weather, and how often you brake. Mind you, I wouldn't buy a value brand despite this. That would be a false economy, and too risky. The Clark pads I have however appear fine.
I'd rather use Discobrakes pads - about £4 per pair, or 4 pairs for £12. http://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=2&c=52&p=128
Think years ago buying them from the usual slot in type to all in one long type and amazing difference in stopping poiwer and feel.
£5.48 on Wiggle.
Nope - none at all (largely because I have no idea what your bike is)!
I wouldn't doubt it. Some people buy 100% into the consumerist thing that the latest version is always the best and anything older is absolute rubbish. I just expect people to exercise their judgment a bit. The latest might be best, but the difference might only be marginal, so not paying a premium for. Or, it might just be a marketing gimmick to get people to part with their hard earned money.
I bought an old Subway for £25 with V brakes, better stopping power than my £800 disc clad road bike.
I'm no fan of tourney freewheels, I bought a cheap £60 mountain bike about 10 years ago, a 'Pagan Arrow' it was called and everything about it worked well and was super strong except the basic quality Shimano freewheel and tourney derailleur which needed constant attention. However I was 26 stone at the time and it had a trial by fire so to speak. I didn't stay long at 26 stone and pretty rapidly lost weight and was down to about 16 stone within the year. The issues I had were the front wheel bearings failing and bending the rear axle of the rear wheel when I hit a large pothole. However as you have pointed out a 8 stone woman is not really going to give a freewheel based drivetrain many issues. I'd agree about the wheel axles and nuts they are pretty awful on entry level bikes but still stronger than the low end quick release system which has hardened hollow axles. I always suggest either is replaced by solid hardened chromoly axle as sold by weldtite etc. Especially for a freewheel drivetrain bike where it considerably improves the strength and durability of those bikes although still not as good as having a cassette based drivetrain on the rear wheel. Assuming the Parva doesn't already have a hardened chromoly rear axle that may be a good cheap upgrade in the future if your wife does somehow bend the rear axle but at 8 stone that would have to be a serious drop I would of thought to do so. Although it was mentioned on another recent hotukdeals thread that a child had destroyed the quick release axle on their diamondback bike but that was a mountain bike style bike and not hybrid. So may have taken some serious drops.
We will have to agree to differ as I think all our points have been raised although there are plenty of videos and forum postings of people who have gone from hydraulic to mechanical disc brakes including 1 of the video links I posted previously who seems very over the top of his dislike of hydraulic brakes. Cables are still a thing though on most bikes as far as I know for brakes and gears and unlikely to be replaced anytime soon.
I did say the inherent issues of cables , which are many not just friction (wear, stretch and corroding to name a few) that's why they are being engineered out of cycle use (etap and DI2). The fact that mechanical discs are very 'off and on ' and 'notchy' , plus the moving actuator arm of most mech discs are exposed so also likely to oxidise/corrode reducing reliability. I do not know of one cyclist who has ever gone back to mechanical disc from hydraulic ever. And not a argument 😃 just a friendly discussion with a fellow cyclist (y) 🏻
Funny enough i bought this kit. Fit the discs and pads and i didn't need to use it. I used a nose pliers which worked a treat.
Aye, third party delivery, Yodel, in my case, mine arrived yesterday.
Delivery on these is poor, ordered when this deal was posted on the 13th and despite Amazon suggesting they'll be here by the 21st at the latest, nothing!
On some cars, don't know about the Polo, the pistons need to be rotated in opposite directions to retract according to the side of the car you are doing, one side clockwise the other anti-clockwise.
I have a VW Polo how do I need two seperate tools for each rear brake? this is confusing
Note to OP there is an error in the top section it actually has £99 instead of 99p. Also isn't there a minimum order value at Tredz?
I prefer mechanical disc brakes myself for their sheer reliability and ease of adjustment and maintenance but understand the modulation and ease of braking is better with hydraulic brakes. Some people have actually gone from hydraulic to mechanical though so make sure its the right choice for you. If you find your hand fatigued after riding and you want sharper braking than your current brakes then hydraulic is the choice. You don't say if you have V brakes or mechanical brakes currently but assume you have mechanical. If you have V brakes then your frame, forks and wheels will need to be disc compatible so it can be a big upgrade. I'm just upgrading an old Saracen Xile jump bike to disc brakes from V brakes but the bike was designed from the outset to be disc upgradable so I just need the brake mechanisms and discs. However sadly most bikes with V brakes aren't so easily upgradable.
haha i bet, i managed to buy a load of shimano pads on a 3for2 on halfords when they had £10 off £30 spend, so i've not started using on my newer XT brakes, so I'm hoping they are decent.
I guess I must just have been unlucky. Sorry about the rant, but I had just serviced fork, replaced entire drivetrain and put on new tyres. Last step was new brake pads for the full on 'new bike' feel. I was not happy.
The discussion was about which brakes to buy. It doesn't matter who manufactures or boxes what. Only the end performance matters.
Noooo. QH do not make brakes they are a boxing company nowadays owned by tetrosyl. Also ATE are more a hydraulics manufacturer then friction manufacturer.... guess who manufactures thier brake pads....
Erm. Pagid are aston marton o.e.m euros dont make parts they just sell them. So its not actually about the brakes is it. Dufus.
Thanks for posting, I use similar stuff on my mountain bike discs and parts.
Ordered 4, thanks O
Nice price never comes in wrong for a number of things