Ethernet Deals & Offers

Gigabit ethernet adapter to gigabit ethernet adapter, tested against a known working cat6 cable that pulls the full 220 down.

Out of interest how do you test it's speed?

arrived, not the same as photos, mine have gold coloured ends. They are not gigabit, currently behind a 220 virgin cable connection, and speed tests do a max of 93 down

1k(lol) (lol) (lol) (lol) okay (y) try doing some research, your don’t need to by the best just one that will do the job, they range from £30 onwards. Heres one that was recommended by a network engineer (y) https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat5e-accessories/9553-ccs-cable-continuity-tester-5056045700448.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiLXE59Cb6QIVh63tCh2mYgG3EAQYAyABEgK7O_D_BwE

Inexpensive tester ? As far as I am aware decent networking tester for noise and bandwidth starts form like £1k (horror) If you on about buzz tester for few quid then that's just money down the drain ;)

No problem ;)

Sorry Danielle71 you were the nearest comment when I needed a moan (mad) and clicked on that. I have now contacted the moderators to ask them why they removed my comment.

Just got mine delivered, not much to say except you do get 5 cables which are (supposedly) CAT 7 and 3m...

Dunno ask a mod?

Why has my comment been deleted?

you find it laughable that people use the best and most reliable approach to installing something?! If you're happy to use wifi for everything go ahead, but don't comment on devices you have zero knowledge on the usefulness of.

I agree. I agonised over a 5 or an 8 a couple of months back when an old 8 port blew its capacitors and I didn’t see the point in replacing it with a new 8 because half the ports had fallen out of use. In the end I went with the 5 and now I am kicking my self because I need an 8 port for something... Atlewst these days they are 5port and not the old 4+uplink so if you have to hook two together it is only the extra power socket that you lose.

you can never have too many network devices plugged into Ethernet networks, but you can soon encounter problems when relying on WiFi connections for everything...

I still find it a bit ott that people need these in their houses. I get you can use it as a "5 into 1"kind of thing if your equipment is nowhere near your router, but how people fill up 8/16 port switches in their house I just can't get my head around unless people like running network cables to everything in their house that can use one (lol)

Ahh cheers I appreciate that, but I've got the PC, PS4, youview box, and TV there, so that would be perfect.

Thanks, got the Deco M4 on order so the switch will be necessary. (highfive)

these can be had for £5

Yes

Yes but if you need more ports just pick up an 8 port version like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-SG108S-Ethernet-Lifetime-Warranty/dp/B07HP6ZLSM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=HNGLLOTB6GNA&dchild=1&keywords=8%2Bport%2Bgigabit%2Bswitch&qid=1587660215&sprefix=8%2Bport%2B%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-4&th=1

Can you plug a switch into a switch?

OOS near me.

OOS mate

Out of stock

Many thanks for your input above (y) I see you have already pointed to relevant model. Can you please suggest if possible, a used hardware firewall behind which home cctv, nas etc can sit? Thankyou

Thank you for your reply. That does put the HP one out for me as I have no idea about CLI and just need an additional port. Thanks for your comments about the POE too. I am going to see if I can get a unmanaged switch which also has POE (for my Ubiquiti wifi points).

If you're buying used then you may have to research how to factory reset it as it'll likely have a config already applied - which may or may not prevent you using it straight away depending how it was set up. You almost certainly will need to reset it to restore default passwords and IP addreses. On my Zyxel that's as easy as holding a button in for so long, but for other switches including this one you need a suitable serial cable and to do it via CLI - not difficult but not user friendly.

If I get the one you recommend (a managed one), will it work out of the box. I do want to learn more about managed switches, but really want to start with plug and play initially.

If only I had this when I started wiring my house. Now the carpet and laminated laid ;(

Haven't checked but presumably doesn't support vlans and is an unmanaged switch, but it is remarkably cheap!

Was looking to buy another 5 port version of this because my first one is excellent and needed with 200+Mbps. 3 more ports for an extra 99p? Don't mind if I do

Thanks I'll give that a try (y) . Makes sense

I guess you could try and connect your laptop via LAN with this BT Whole Home WiFi disc and if you will have cable Internet than this would work too.

Can I plug this into a BT Whole Home WiFi disc (not the base node) and plug in a number of devices into the switch to connect to the internet?

They dont look like they have been certified so I personally would avoid them + pnp its £9.66 only about 90p less than what i paid

HDMI versions (1.4, 2.0, etc) DO NOT apply to HDMI cables.

£5.46 for this Premium High Speed cable from CPC https://cpc.farnell.com/av-star/h21-2/premium-high-speed-8k-2-1-hdmi/dp/AV28543

https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/1m-4k-uhd-hdmi-20-b-cable-60hz-2160p-4x4x4-ultra-high-speed-ethernet-lead-arc-cec-fully-hdcp-hd-3d-tv-playstation-4-pro-fire-xbox-3435740

I got these certified Premium High Speed https://www.startech.com/uk/Cables/Audio-Video/HDMI/premium-high-speed-hdmi-cable-1m~HDMM1MP

If you've always used netgear, just stick with it. Its just a couple quid more. I've got a few plastic TP Link switches for home and small office and have not had a problem.

Only ever used netgear, but need to upgrade from a 4 port - wondering if this 8 port will serve me well, but bit put off by some of the comments

I would pay the extra fiver for a D-Link DGS-108. They’re well made and have a full suite of status LED’s. The best value switch has to be the Tenda TEG1008D which can be had for £12.80ish from Box. I would be careful with these though. I tried two from two different retailers to rule out a batch issue. I found over time both were unreliable with the same issue, they would drop connections at random. They seem to work better down stream, i.e. sharing a single Ethernet connection between components in an AV setup (as an example) but used up stream handling a lot of continuous traffic, attached devices would lose their network connection, sometimes requiring the switch to be power cycled. It’s a shame as the Tenda is really well made and cheap as chips. This TP-Link and the D-Link switch I mentioned both worked fine in the same application, as did the previous Plastic TP-Link switch before it failed. Nothing wrong with this TP-link though, seems to work well enough, as good as the D-link I mentioned above but nowhere near as well made.

Which options seem better if you don't mind me asking?

Usual price

Does this have QoS capability or is that only on the managed versions

if anyone finds a cheap gigabit PoE switch can they let me know please?!

No, each will go as fast as it can

daft question - if a 10/100 device is plugged into one of the ports, will that make everything else on it run at 100 too?

Tp link make pretty solid switches. These are great for home use

It's £12.99 now

Read the description but I'm stupid enough to still have no idea what it does (confused)

It is the point. The blurb talks about cleaner and clearer sound, which is clearly just BS.

Whenever a human reviews or recommends anything, it's subjective, something might measure the same in the laboratory but not perform the same in the world. @MrJed Yes, it's called high definition multimedia interface. Its a digital interface! Its like saying all cat cables are the same. Cat 5,cat 6,cat 7 they all perform the same basic function. I just wish it would all be standardised and classification a bit more clear.

Different versions of HDMI cables do not perform the same function. That is why their are different versions, see above :)

But that's the point - you will notice the difference when your sky box or similar refuses to display in 4k. This is what this cable DOES NOT do, as the features below ONLY applies to 2.0 cables. Increases bandwidth to 18GbpsResolutions up to 4K@50/60 (2160p), (4 times the clarity of 1080p/60 video resolution)Up to 32 audio channels Up to 1536kHz audio sample frequencySimultaneous delivery of dual video streams to multiple users on the same screenSimultaneous delivery of multi-stream audio to multiple users (Up to 4)Support for the wide angle theatrical 21:9 video aspect ratioDynamic synchronization of video and audio streamsUpdated CEC extensions for more expanded command and control of consumer electronics devices through a single control pointSupport for 4:2:0 chroma subsamplingSupport for 25 fps 3D formatsBackward compatible with high speed (category 2) HDMI cables

sub zero this one

I managed to get the metal one of these for about £4 quid on eBay thanks to some nectar points and it's brilliant. Quite small as well so fits nicely behind everything.

Expired now £60+ unfortunately

Bang on. Detect, deter, deflect.

This is what I do. UPS the switch, record to SD on board the camera. With some manufacturers cameras you can have dynamic GOP and dynamic FPS running to reduce your storage profile when nothing is going on in the scene far better than VMD has ever worked. No need for an NVR that will no doubt overheat or suffer HD failure at a low price point.

Yeah. You probably get 90% of the benefit just by having the things up, although properly set up and with decent notifications, it can be very useful for remote monitoring especially if you have neighbours willing to respond with cricket bats! Also worth remembering that you don't need enough security to defeat the burglars, you just need enough to send them to your neighbour's instead... :-/

Agreed. I didn't bother as the chances of something happening at the same time are very slim. From what I could tell a basic one will be lasting an hour if lucky. If possible, all via POE direct from the NVR with a power backup. Equally, you would ideally like NVR hidden from view which means hiding the cable runs as they approach it. If you cannot hide them or they are run straight through the wall from outside to the NVR then you could argue that a powerline is actually a safer overall solution if burglary is your primary reason for the camera. Another great thing for the Powerline is that you can (for instance) put an IP camera in a shed / outbuilding if it has power without trying to run cables back to the house / nvr. That said, I only know from my own research and testing when doing my own home CCTV even though nobody in the road has a had a burglary / vandalism that I am aware of.